(Topic ID: 221333)

1967 Gottlieb: King of Diamonds - Powering on Theory

By Odie3

5 years ago


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KOD 12 Ball Count Incr Game Ready (resized).png
KOD 11 Outhole Coil Fires (resized).png
KOD 08 Score Reels Reset (resized).png
KOD 10 Match Relay Closed (resized).png
KOD 09 DB Latches Open (resized).png
KOD 06 Control Bank Reset (resized).png
KOD 07 S-rly Opens (resized).png
KOD 03 S-rly Closed (resized).png
KOD 05 Mot 1A Pulse (resized).png
KOD 04 Seq Bank Reset (resized).png
KOD 02 S-rly Energized (resized).png
KOD 01 Power Switch ON (resized).png
9796bb46e1d535d3e3ae841875b3353ed692a3ed (resized).jpg
Ball Unit Switch (resized).jpg
T Switch (resized).jpg
Snarfed (resized).jpg

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#5 5 years ago

You want to be careful with that whole replay button thing because on King of Diamonds the whole circuit runs at 120v:
King of Diamonds Replay button (resized).jpgKing of Diamonds Replay button (resized).jpg
Since the coin chute starts a game we can eliminate some switches. With the power off, and preferably with the game unplugged, see if you can find an issue with the path in red. It's likely that one of those switches isn't closing although it could be a bad solder joint, or jones plug, etc.

/Mark

#10 5 years ago
Quoted from Odie3:

One odd thing, clearly the purple wire at the motor is correct, per the schematic but once we get to the Reply Wheel / Switch - the wire appears to have changed to "blue".

Your photo shows that the switch on the Replay Unit connects a brown wire to a blue wire which is also what the schematic shows. But you've skipped over the other switches (T relay and Ball Count Unit) between the Score Motor and the Replay Unit.

#12 5 years ago
Quoted from Odie3:

Ok, so we have the "T" Switch. In the schematic is says this T Switch is normally opened. When the game has "balls" or the Game is "Over" I am told the actuator has not moved - so I am not sure when this path gets "closed". Also, he other path, the for the ball count unit that needs to be closed when at zero balls?

The T relay is the Tilt relay so that switch will only close when the game is tilted. Normally the other switch is used which closes when the Ball Count unit is at zero. If you think about it, it means that you can only start a new game once the current game is over, or if the game is tilted. Apparently the game won't start if you're already playing ball 3 for example.

#13 5 years ago

The caption on your photo says "Lightly push here replay button works". That means that the rest of the circuit is working and you just need to figure out why you can't get through the Ball Count Unit zero position switch or the wiring leading to it.

#16 5 years ago

A common way to set a game for free play is to jumper across the Replay (or Credit) Unit zero position switch as mentioned by pinhead52 in reply #4. Jumpering across the Tilt relay switch won't work if you don't already have credits on the Replay Unit.

#18 5 years ago
Quoted from Odie3:

so we have given the Wheel ~10 credits and disabled the coil so credits cannot be removed. So with the "T" jumper and the Replay (Remove a Credit) Coil disabled all seems operational with turning the game on from power off and this part appears in good order.

You shouldn't need the jumper across the T relay switch if the Ball Count unit switch is working.

Quoted from Odie3:

This knocker is tied to the Ball Unit and turns on at Ball 1 and stays "Up" until Game Over...

Do you mean the Knocker mounted to the side of the cabinet that should fire when you win a free game, or one of the two solenoids with a plunger on the Ball Count Unit stepper?

#20 5 years ago
Quoted from Odie3:

I am pretty sure you do, if you unplug the game and it is in "Game On" (say on ball 3 of 5) then the Replay Start button is disabled. If I am reading everything correctly.

Interesting. It looks like that's a scenario they didn't design for. In that case you'd need to drop a coin to get the game to start even if you had credits.

#22 5 years ago

If you haven't already you may want to read up on replacing the power cord with a new, 3 pronged power cord and grounding all of the external metal surfaces. That way, even if the thin insulating fish paper between the 120v switches and the front door for example wears away, the game will blow a fuse or circuit breaker rather than shock someone unlucky enough to touch the (live rather than floating) replay button.

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