(Topic ID: 284186)

1965 Gottlieb Bank-A-Ball & Flipper Pool Club - Welcome

By PinballFever

2 years ago


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  • 142 posts
  • 35 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 months ago by Pbpins
  • Topic is favorited by 16 Pinsiders

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There are 142 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 3.
#51 2 years ago

Vic_Camp
Can't argue with that. I do the same with sizes, then decide on the color I want later. Do you stay with white rubbers for EM's generally?

#52 2 years ago

Vic_Camp - I hear ya. I do the same - use the size that feels best. Do you generally stay with white rubbers on EM's?

#53 2 years ago

All of my games have white rubbers and playfield white rubber post caps.
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#54 2 years ago

I do like the clean-ness of the way white looks....but sometimes I've been playing around with color lately. I used dark green and yellow rubbers on "Flipper Pool", and I think it looks good. There are some pics of my machine in post #25 - I do like the shiny metal acorns on the posts as well. Just feel like changing it up sometimes.

#55 2 years ago

Do you generally double up on the flipper rubbers too, on the 2" flippers? I like the cigarette ad front and center!

And do you know if the machines came with white rubber post caps or metal acorns originally?

#56 2 years ago

Not all my 2" flippers have double rubbers. It works for me on my Bank a Ball. I do also have a white rebound rubber and like the look too.

The cigarette ad i have a connection to. I worked there at Coin Amusement in the late 1960's early 1970's. I restored a Bank a Ball for guy older man in my town for free and on his Bank a Ball was this sticker. After i completed the restoration he told i could swap my Bank a Ball card tray for his card tray.

#57 2 years ago
Quoted from paulace:

I was looking at that rubber ring chart - I think they must have stretched a 3" rubber around that center island. Man, that would be tight! I used a 4" Titan there and that felt good to me. For what it's worth...

Steve’s kit comes with the bigger center ring

#58 2 years ago

Nice story about the cig ad...I like it! Gives it some character!

#59 2 years ago

I recently got a Flipper Pool that had white posts and the newer flat top flippers. The game looks otherwise unhacked. Could some of these have been that way from the factory? The parts look appropriately yellowed for their age.

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#60 2 years ago
Quoted from sysprog:

I recently got a Flipper Pool that had white posts and the newer flat top flippers. The game looks otherwise unhacked. Could some of these have been that way from the factory? The parts look appropriately yellowed for their age.
[quoted image][quoted image]

It should have metal posts and the rounded flippers. Look at Vics above. Good luck finding the metal ones if you ever want to try and make it authentic. They are hard to find.

#61 2 years ago
Quoted from Murphdom:

It should have metal posts and the rounded flippers. Look at Vics above. Good look finding the metal ones if you ever want to try and make it authentic. They are hard to find.

I do have a set of the metal ones (never miss a deal on ebay). Send me a PM and I'll count the ones I have. And there are a handful of tall, anyone have a count of thoses?

#62 2 years ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

I do have a set of the metal ones (never miss a deal on ebay). Send me a PM and I'll count the ones I have. And there are a handful of tall, anyone have a count of thoses?

Why am I not surprised you have these?lol. There are 6. I just repopulated my game yesterday.
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#63 2 years ago
Quoted from Murphdom:

Why am I not surprised you have these?lol. There are 6. I just repopulated my game yesterday.
[quoted image]

and how many regular?

#64 2 years ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

and how many regular?

35. 10 for the upper corners, 8 for the middle rollovers, 6 for the lower stand up targets, 6 for the slings and 5 for the center stand up. There is also an old style plastic post in the middle of the center stand up target.

#65 2 years ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

I do have a set of the metal ones (never miss a deal on ebay). Send me a PM and I'll count the ones I have. And there are a handful of tall, anyone have a count of thoses?

PM sent

#66 2 years ago

sysprog do you have a different apron too? I caught a glimpse in the photo and it looks different.

#68 2 years ago

heres my stash, 27 short tops 27 tall tops 50 bottoms. i do not know how i ended up with so many tall??? 3 short are reserved

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#69 2 years ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

heres my stash, 27 short tops 27 tall tops 50 bottoms. i do not know how i ended up with so many tall??? 3 short are reserved
[quoted image]

Nice stash.

#70 2 years ago
Quoted from Murphdom:

sysprog do you have a different apron too? I caught a glimpse in the photo and it looks different.

Is this correct? I did replace the flippers, I do like the looks of the round tops better.

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#71 2 years ago

The factory original flippers look nice.

It looks like flippers can be adjusted back towards the card tray a tiny bit more.

If you look closely at the flippers where they rest at the moment, you can see where to adjust them to by the lighter color shaded area where the factory original flippers use to be.

#72 2 years ago
Quoted from RacingPin:

If any body bought a new set of plastics and has a good left sling left -or- happens to have an extra left sling I can use one
[quoted image]

I have a complete Oos set I replaced with a pin rescue reproduction set. Would sell all for $60 or start parting out the set for $15 per plus shipping. The plastics on the game are the actual plastics before swap. The really were not bad but I went full Monty on this restore. My second BAB.

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#73 2 years ago
Quoted from Vic_Camp:

The factory original flippers look nice.
It looks like flippers can be adjusted back towards the card tray a tiny bit more.
If you look closely at the flippers where they rest at the moment, you can see where to adjust them to by the lighter color shaded area where the factory original flippers use to be.

I have them adjusted so it is flat from the inline guide to the top of the flipper rubber ring. Was factory adjustment lower than that?

#74 2 years ago

Yes...a little lower.
Take a look at some of the other pictures in the posting of the Bank a Balls. Hopefully you can see that yours are slightly higher then the others.

#75 2 years ago
Quoted from sysprog:

Is this correct? I did replace the flippers, I do like the looks of the round tops better.[quoted image]

Yup it’s different. If you look at others you can view which ball is in play through the apron. If you can’t find an original find one similar from the era and add the decal that’s available here: https://www.bestofpinball.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=14614

You could check with hazmat7719 he bought out toomanypins parts business or maybe REM pinball.

#76 2 years ago
Quoted from Murphdom:

Yup it’s different. If you look at others you can view which ball is in play through the apron.

Its a Flipper Pool, so it only has one ball in it. Not much to see in the trough It looks like the pics on IPDB.

#77 2 years ago
Quoted from sysprog:

Its a Flipper Pool, so it only has one ball in it. Not much to see in the trough It looks like the pics on IPDB.

I had no idea that it had a different apron. I’m an idiot.

#78 2 years ago
Quoted from Murphdom:

I had no idea that it had a different apron.

This is my first AAB. I always wondered how they did it on ball lift games..

6 months later
#79 1 year ago

I joined the club today. Picked up a Flipper Pool that had been sitting around unused for decades. It mostly works, but needs some TLC.

#80 1 year ago

Welcome to the club, PSchwisow - if you have questions while you're getting it back in shape, we might be able to help.

#81 1 year ago

I just picked up a lower cab to FP. Anybody got a spare head? Doubt I'd find one. Anybody want a 2nd pf to their game as a restoration candidate?

Will have the cab at Allentown flea, I primarily want the posts. Full set of plastics available and a lockdown bar.

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1 week later
#82 1 year ago

Got it cleaned up and worked out most of the major issues (with a lot of help from schwism). Still struggling to get the hundreds to reliably roll over to the thousands, but it’s playable (and fun)! Conveniently the one coil that is burnt out is the one that alternates which side “mystery score” is lit. Will order a new one, but until then, it can stay lit on the left side.

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#83 1 year ago

Is there anyone around remaking the pool ball plastics? (Or has anyone ventured to created a 3d print model?) I just got one in that's in truly phenomenal unrestored condition and the only thing wrong is one missing and one wrong ball

#84 1 year ago

Steve Young has them at PBR. They're expensive - about $35 per ball, I think. But they're very nice - come with the rivets you'll need to install them. It's money well-spent.

#85 1 year ago

Damn, I totally forgot to ask him and just got an order in on Saturday! Well... Adding to my list for next order. Thanks!!

#86 1 year ago
Quoted from statictrance:

Is there anyone around remaking the pool ball plastics? (Or has anyone ventured to created a 3d print model?) I just got one in that's in truly phenomenal unrestored condition and the only thing wrong is one missing and one wrong ball

Which one did you get?
I found a rough "Bank A Ball" once which needed five or six of the pool balls. I made replacements using wooden hemispheres from a craft store, and the metal arms used in "King of Diamonds" and "Diamond Jack". Once painted and labeled, it's difficult to tell which ones are the handmade ones versus the original ones when viewed from the players perspective.
This was before PBR had replacements, but at $35 each, it would have been expensive to replace that many.
A friend once acquired a very nice "Flipper Pool", but the number one ball was broken off.
He found a round plastic measuring spoon which was just the right size. He then dipped it in yellow "tool dip", labeled it, and epoxied it on the remaining arm.
Again, you'd never have known it wasn't original when you play the game.

#87 1 year ago

What happened to all of these pool balls? How often are they laying in the bottom of the cabinets?

Souvenirs?

#88 1 year ago
Quoted from Gotemwill:

What happened to all of these pool balls? How often are they laying in the bottom of the cabinets?
Souvenirs?

They break off if you're not careful when tipping trip bank assembly back and the balls are down. It's usually the #1 or #15 ball, but sometimes others as well. For some reason, you never seem to find the broken off ones in the game.

#89 1 year ago
Quoted from jrpinball:

They break off if you're not careful when tipping trip bank assembly back and the balls are down.

Yup. Before tipping the Bank back, it's always best to reset it (manually if needed).
I've gotten them in already broken, but I haven't broken any myself, but it wouldn't
surprise me when they break, many fling and end up on the floor..

#90 1 year ago
Quoted from statictrance:

Is there anyone around remaking the pool ball plastics?

I have a couple extra blank F.P./B.a.B balls, so I haven't tried it, but I have no
reason to believe it wouldn't work.
If you'd like to grind the backside of one of these full circular balls down, and then
epoxy, you're welcome to have one for the price of shipping. They are pretty much
exact in diameter, and I can also send the number that you can apply afterwards that
more resembles the original..

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#91 1 year ago
Quoted from statictrance:

Is there anyone around remaking the pool ball plastics? (Or has anyone ventured to created a 3d print model?) I just got one in that's in truly phenomenal unrestored condition and the only thing wrong is one missing and one wrong ball

Which numbers? I still have a couple nos balls around here somewhere.

#92 1 year ago

Any suggestions on reinforcing them at the opposite end? My two ball has a crack where the arm is riveted on. The bottom rivet is fine, so the whole thing tends to stay half-way down when it resets.

#93 1 year ago
Quoted from PSchwisow:

Any suggestions on reinforcing them at the opposite end? My two ball has a crack where the arm is riveted on. The bottom rivet is fine, so the whole thing tends to stay half-way down when it resets.

JBWeld tends to be the solution

#94 1 year ago

Dang, you guys were fast! Iooks like I'm looking for a 10 and a 3 (which is a two that was sharpied red somewhere along the line!) And on closer look, I could use a 1 as well I guess!

For reference, here's the game I brought in (and the fresh from the evaporust legs that came with them!). This one is going in the collection and not leaving anytime soon... I just need to figure what's leaving to make room! (Unfortunately I have about 6 games too many .. haha). I got a MIBS from the same house in even better shape too.

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#95 1 year ago

If you are lucky enough to find a spare ball mech they are easy to repaint. I did that years back for my BaB. I remember I needed a 1 ball. bought a can of Krylon Short Cuts (like $3) sprayed it yellow then replaced the number.

re: Balls Breaking -- they also can break off when they reset at the start of a game when the large coil slams them back -- if they are not tightened all the way up. As others have mentioned the wing nuts are the key -- they have to be TIGHT at both ends and work loose over time due to vibration etc from play. I routinely retighten mine if I'm in the backbox. Preventative maintenance is the key.

#96 1 year ago
Quoted from bigdog50:

If you are lucky enough to find a spare ball mech they are easy to repaint. I did that years back for my BaB. I remember I needed a 1 ball. bought a can of Krylon Short Cuts (like $3) sprayed it yellow then replaced the number.
re: Balls Breaking -- they also can break off when they reset at the start of a game when the large coil slams them back -- if they are not tightened all the way up. As others have mentioned the wing nuts are the key -- they have to be TIGHT at both ends and work loose over time due to vibration etc from play. I routinely retighten mine if I'm in the backbox. Preventative maintenance is the key.

there is a hack to mount turnbuckles from the bank up to eyelets screwed into the top wood piece, one at each end, ensures the bank stays in place.

#97 1 year ago
Quoted from bigdog50:

As others have mentioned the wing nuts are the key -- they have to be TIGHT at both ends and work loose over time due to vibration etc from play. I routinely retighten mine if I'm in the backbox. Preventative maintenance is the key.

This is a perfect application for blue Locktite threadlocker.

1 month later
#98 1 year ago

The pictures show is what is left of the backbox 15 ball in my game. The 1 ball has started to crack in a similar way. I plan to replace both.

For those of you who changed a pool ball in the backbox , how did you do it?

Removing the old rivets is straight forward easy.

My concern is the brass shaft that is peened/swedged over the washer over the plastic of the ball arm. How did you undo and redo this?

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#99 1 year ago

I’d recommend cutting a small slot in the arm of the new ball and slide it into place

Mike V

#100 1 year ago

File off the peened end. Remove the pin and sleeve. File off the small rivets.
Use a small bolt and nut when reassembling the sleeve
I believe PBR has the small brass rivets. Gently peen them with an appropriate punch and tack hammer.

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