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I was lucky enough to pick up a ball bowler this past November. It's a 1965 Chicago Coin Preview bowler. It's 100% working, but really dirty and the victim of some bad paint jobs.
This is my first time working with an EM game. My only previous experience is shopping out newer pins. But I figure it's a nice long-term Winter (and Spring project).
Someone thought that light brown was a good color to compliment the orange gutters. I disagree.
Multiple lead paint tests came back negative, so I begin the stripping...
Beneath the brown is a questionable teal color.
I begin with the hard part - sanding and stripping the ball return area. I remove the work plastic ball guides - I won't be re-using them...
Here's where the first lane section stands at this point. Still waiting for the shin guard rubber to arrive in the mail, and the coin door to get blasted and powder-coated.
The formica lane section hasn't been cleaned yet, nor is it bolted back onto the lane. I just had to see how it looks. 
Here's the coin box - it's in pretty rough shape. you can see the original color on the inside.
I disassembled everything and took the coin box and ashtray to a local powder coating place. The plan is to hopefully match the color of my gutters. I also ordered a new coin cover from St. Louis Ball Bowlers.
There's no shortcuts here - just a lot of naphtha, q-tips, and rags. I disassembled each coil relay bracket and metal flap and tumbled them to smooth them out. The switches were cleaned up, and a lot of the surface rust was removed.
On and off, I'm guessing this took about 6 hours.
I did the same treatment on the bottoms side of the pin deck as well. This side didn't take as long - I'm guessing about three hours.
I again tumbled some of the small metal pieces where the pin connects to the housing. I also gave this side a quick coat of mildew-resistant paint, both to protect it and to brighten up the underside and increase the reflectivity.
New pins will also be installed.
Anyone know where I can get replacement springs in this size? A couple of mine a stretched out, which makes the pin hang a bit when retracted.
The spring helps the pin flex in case the ball hits it before it can retract completely.
The springs are about 1/2-inch long (minus the loops). Marco's has a bunch of springs for sale, but there are no measurements to go by. I may just check the hardware store.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Found some comparable springs at the local hardware store and replaced all 10. Also installed new pins. Also replaced the cotter pins with machine screws and lock nuts.
I took some door insulation felt strip to use for the pin cushion (i think that's what it's called - I found it in my workshop). I used spray adhesive to mount it to the pin deck - I'll reinforce it with staples the next time I get out the upholstery stapler.
For now, the pin deck is complete! The next step is the ball lift motor box...
Thanks for the info and compliments. I have the DVD and have watched it many times.
I have gutted the ball return box and am working on sanding and refinishing this week. I hope to also do the baler belt and ball return ramp repairs as well.
I cleaned up the motor. It was working before, so as long as I didn't break it I should be good.
The motor was filthy. I'll post pics later.
Taking advantage of the nice weather - stripping the bulkhead...
Does anyone know if the bulkhead disassembles from the alley siderails? I removed some screews and some bolts near the back, but nothing moving yet.
It would be much easier to move upstairs if these two pieces separate.
It was partially stripped like that when I got the bowler.
There are two coats of paint over the original artwork - the brown that you see and a turquoise color.
The paint gel remover will bubble and remove the two coats of latex on top, and may leave some of the original underneath.
I have a leftover piece that is 10x36 inches. It's enough to do at least two of the flap pieces (I had a 5" flap and two 3" flaps). I can send it to you if you'd like for shipping cost plus a little extra to recoup some $$$. I don't know what it would cost to ship to CA, but i think I paid $40 for the 5-foot baler strip.
The bulkhead does separate from the lane section, but it was not without a fight. A few hidden nails and screws made it difficult.
This is huge, since it will now be easier to strip, paint, and reinforce where necessary. I also know i can move it to its final location easier.
When I reattach it I will probably use some decorative carriage bolts, so it's more obvious how it comes apart.
Inside of the coin box. The wiring is a mess in there, but I didn't want to bend the wires any more than necessary.
There is a coin mech and harness assembly with switch, two plunge buttons (game select and extended play), and a coin return button.
I re-wired it so that the extended play button acts as the coin credit, and vice versa. I hope it all works when I finally fire it up. I took pictures and labeled the wiring before I disconnected it, and worked backwards to re-connect. There is a red wire still in the box un-connected, which is the way is was when I disassembled it.
Started cleaning the scoring reels. 50-years of coil dust.
The reels cleaned up pretty well with soapy water and a magic eraser. I dont think there is a solution for the yellowed out parts of some of the reels.
I'm going to try to clean the rest of the reel assemblies without completely disassembling them. They were all working when I started this project.
I was able to strip and sand the score box today. Just need to fix some de-laminating at both bottom corners and then I'll be able to prime and paint. Then I'll be able to detail the inside, once I don't have to deal with dust anymore.
Not sure if I want to try and reinforce the hinges or not, which would probably involve removing them and adding washers, etc. the door is so heavy with all the equipment on it that it scrapes the bottom of box when closed. Then again, how often will I need to open it once it's all fixed up?
Good question. I'll let you know when i put it back together. I'm working on the alley sections now to take advantage of the nice weather.
It was working when I bought it, but I didnt try any extended play features.
Quoted from Otaku:Jesus, that's a lot of steppers. I kind of let out an "oh boy" chuckle. Good luck with it. That looks like hell, now I know why these things are so annoying to fix and troubleshoot apparently.
Quick edit: Also, are you missing the male end of the extended play frame adjustment jones plug? Might want to check that and make sure. Had to save that first picture. It's just too cool.
Some great progress this weekend - got all the painting and poly coats done, and finally started to put her back together.
Installed the powder coated coin box and new shin rubber. Also cleaned up the alley with a magic eraser. I will follow up with some Novus to bring back the sheen.
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It's alive! Got it together and mostly set up in its new home to test it out.
99% working! The only issue is the 3 pin will not retract (but does score). The 3 pin is part of the 3-9 switch - the 9 pin does retract.
Looked for loose wires, but nothing stands out. The 3 pin retract coil in the pin deck does not fire at all. I think the next step is to examine the 3-9 switch stack, but I'll accept some advice on what to look for!
Also need to buy some red light bulbs for red pin!
Better photos will be uploaded once she's fixed and final adjustments are made.
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Quoted from Tazmans:Beautiful job!!!! Check your roll over wire under the pins, check to see if the wire is contacting the switch under the lane> I have had that happen also. How long is this bowler? Great job
It's a 16' bowler. According to the schmatic, the only switch that retracts the 3 also retracts the 9, so i don't think that is the issue. I checked all the under lane switches during re-assembly.
I'm guessing the 3-9 reset relay switch stack is the issue. I just need to get in there to look.
I poked around under the hood and cleaned the 3-9 relay switch stack. The good news is that I didn't make anything worse. But the 3 pin still won't retract.
The retractor coil looks good, and the wiring has continuity all the way back to the jones connector. I guess the next step is to trace the wire from the jones connector back to the switch stack and go from there.
More pics to follow, but for now...
Quoted from dasvis:Did you tighten the switch stack screws?
Yes, and it looks like they all make/break as they should, but it's really hard to see in there with all the other switch stacks.
Quoted from Tazmans:Are you sure when the roll over wire for the 3 pin gets pushed down that it touches the switch? I know you said you checked it? but did you check it like that?
I'll check again, but I'm pretty sure it does, since the 9 pin retracts when the switch is hit, but not the 3. Accoring to the schmatic, the 3-9 are activated together.
Quoted from Bowlerguy:If the #3 pin scores, but does not go up, then check the pin itself. Look at the top of the pin and check the coil flap to see if it needs adjusting, also check the switch itself to make sure it is getting good contact.
The switch next to the pin looks good and makes contact. The coil doesn't fire to pull in the flap. I think the coil is good - i get resistance when using the multimeter on it.
The pin scores. I get 2 points for the 3-9 switch, but only the 9 retracts.
Quoted from Bowlerguy:Swipe your hands across all of the triggers but the back ones, this way all the pins should go up. Then go up to the #3 pin and take a screw driver and press down on the switch to see if it activates then.
It works!
It didn't work originally when i pushed down with the screwdriver, but then it activated once the top leaf switch touched the metal pin mounting bracket. After doing that a few times the switch started to act normal. Weird.
Some final moving and adjusting, then i'll upload some more pictures. Thanks!
Quoted from Tazmans:so it was the roll over switch? Happy you have it fixed...
No, the switch in the pin deck that controls the coil to energize the retracting flap for the 3 pin.
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Buffalo, NY