Inside of the coin box. The wiring is a mess in there, but I didn't want to bend the wires any more than necessary.

There is a coin mech and harness assembly with switch, two plunge buttons (game select and extended play), and a coin return button.

I re-wired it so that the extended play button acts as the coin credit, and vice versa. I hope it all works when I finally fire it up. I took pictures and labeled the wiring before I disconnected it, and worked backwards to re-connect. There is a red wire still in the box un-connected, which is the way is was when I disassembled it.

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Started cleaning the scoring reels. 50-years of coil dust.

The reels cleaned up pretty well with soapy water and a magic eraser. I dont think there is a solution for the yellowed out parts of some of the reels.

I'm going to try to clean the rest of the reel assemblies without completely disassembling them. They were all working when I started this project.

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My reels are plastic, so soap and water work fine. I'm just careful to make sure the numbers don't start to flake or peel.

Before and after of one of the scoring reel assemblies. The gear is to the left. Hard to tell by looking, but it's a lot cleaner now. The gunk was obvious.

The coil moves smoothly, so I didn't take it apart, just cleaned where i could.

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Score box ready for stripping.

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I was able to strip and sand the score box today. Just need to fix some de-laminating at both bottom corners and then I'll be able to prime and paint. Then I'll be able to detail the inside, once I don't have to deal with dust anymore.

Not sure if I want to try and reinforce the hinges or not, which would probably involve removing them and adding washers, etc. the door is so heavy with all the equipment on it that it scrapes the bottom of box when closed. Then again, how often will I need to open it once it's all fixed up?

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Cabinet all painted. Time to tackle the inside. Looks simple enough...

:-/

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Glad I noticed this label before I got too far with my switch cleaning.

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Looks like I'll have at least one coil to replace. Still attached, but doesn't look good for long term reliability.

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It's been a while, but it's a nice day out. Time to finish the sanding on the remaining alley section!

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Looking better after a first pass with the electric sander, 220 grit. This after numerous coats of stripper.

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Sanding complete! First coat of stain applied.

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Good question. I'll let you know when i put it back together. I'm working on the alley sections now to take advantage of the nice weather.

It was working when I bought it, but I didnt try any extended play features.

Staining requires the proper materials...

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First coat of poly going on the second lane section. It's amazing how the gloss coat transforms the entire look.

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The bulkhead gets primed and painted today. Painting the gutters later on as well.

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Some great progress this weekend - got all the painting and poly coats done, and finally started to put her back together.

Installed the powder coated coin box and new shin rubber. Also cleaned up the alley with a magic eraser. I will follow up with some Novus to bring back the sheen.
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Used some extra baler belt to replace the ball-calming mechanism at the top of the return chute. Hopefully it doesn't slow the ball down too much. image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

It's alive! Got it together and mostly set up in its new home to test it out.

99% working! The only issue is the 3 pin will not retract (but does score). The 3 pin is part of the 3-9 switch - the 9 pin does retract.

Looked for loose wires, but nothing stands out. The 3 pin retract coil in the pin deck does not fire at all. I think the next step is to examine the 3-9 switch stack, but I'll accept some advice on what to look for!

Also need to buy some red light bulbs for red pin!

Better photos will be uploaded once she's fixed and final adjustments are made.

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It's a 16' bowler. According to the schmatic, the only switch that retracts the 3 also retracts the 9, so i don't think that is the issue. I checked all the under lane switches during re-assembly.

I'm guessing the 3-9 reset relay switch stack is the issue. I just need to get in there to look.

I poked around under the hood and cleaned the 3-9 relay switch stack. The good news is that I didn't make anything worse. But the 3 pin still won't retract.

The retractor coil looks good, and the wiring has continuity all the way back to the jones connector. I guess the next step is to trace the wire from the jones connector back to the switch stack and go from there.

More pics to follow, but for now...

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Yes, and it looks like they all make/break as they should, but it's really hard to see in there with all the other switch stacks.

I'll check again, but I'm pretty sure it does, since the 9 pin retracts when the switch is hit, but not the 3. Accoring to the schmatic, the 3-9 are activated together.

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The switch next to the pin looks good and makes contact. The coil doesn't fire to pull in the flap. I think the coil is good - i get resistance when using the multimeter on it.

The pin scores. I get 2 points for the 3-9 switch, but only the 9 retracts.

It works!

It didn't work originally when i pushed down with the screwdriver, but then it activated once the top leaf switch touched the metal pin mounting bracket. After doing that a few times the switch started to act normal. Weird.

Some final moving and adjusting, then i'll upload some more pictures. Thanks!

No, the switch in the pin deck that controls the coil to energize the retracting flap for the 3 pin.

I put in some soft white LEDs to brighten up the backglass. It looks real nice while maintaining the classic feel.

Now if I could just get the Red Pin lights to work it'll be at 100%. Haven't had a chance to troubleshoot that issue yet. image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg