(Topic ID: 178516)

1964 Bally "Happy Tour" Won't Reset

By BillMar

7 years ago


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  • 17 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by BillMar
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 7 years ago

Hi All -

I'm a newbie here, so hoping I can find some help. First, full disclosure - I'm handy, can fix many things, a quick study, comfortable around electronics and definitely a do-it-yourselfer. That being said, very much a novice inside of an EM Pinball machine, so if I ask any stupid questions, please tell me so or point me in the right direction.

I have a 1964 Bally "Happy Tour" machine. From what I understand, it is virtually identical to the more common "Grand Tour" version. It has worked for nearly 4 decades in my possession, fairly well maintained, cleaned (although not for the last five or six years), and lovingly played. I have the full schematic, although I don't know how to read it. The machine was adapted to work without a coin, before it came into my possession. It has no on-off switch, so standard operating procedure is to plug it in, hit the reset switch on the door and off you go. (IMAGE 1)

However, it is now not resetting when I hit the reset switch. The machine will not start up, nor turn on when pressing the switch. Before I came here I checked out, to the best of my ability, what's going on inside. There are no obvious loose wires or broken connections - again, obvious ones. The wires and contacts on the reset switch look good and I cleaned the contacts on the reset switch as well. I also cleaned the contacts on the "bump" switch on the door.

Inside, the only obvious thing wrong is that the "switch actuator" on one of the relays (the "Anti-Cheat" relay) is broken. (IMAGE 2) I can reset the relay manually, and the game will energize and turn on (IMAGE 3), however it will still not reset when pushing the button, so I'm not sure if the "Anti Cheat" relay problem is the cause of the issue, or just another separate problem. Fixing the switch actuator looks easy enough and I can find the part online, but I'm stumped as to how to troubleshoot the reset problem.

Would love any guidance anyone here can offer. Have attached a few images, but can send more.

Image 1 DOOR (resized).jpgImage 1 DOOR (resized).jpg
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#2 7 years ago

Are there credits on the machine? Can you start it by activating the coin switch (the way it worked on location years ago)?

That broken part of the relay should not affect the switch from closing when energized. If indeed it does, bypass with a jumper wire, etc.

#3 7 years ago

Hi MrBally - thanks for he quick response. There never has been any credit indicator on the machine, and as far as I can tell on the schematic, nothing that says credit. Is it possible that there isn't one on this model and that it is simply activated one coin at a time?

As far as the coin switch goes, there isn't one on the door, as far as I can tell. I see it in the schematic, but having trouble locating it in the machine. Any advice where to look?

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#4 7 years ago

Yep, it's the (Italian!) add-a-ball variant which means it won't have a credit counter and that a single coin drop activates the start relay.

#5 7 years ago

Sorry, I didn't research to see it was an AAB for Italy which means no credit unit.

Just manually activate the start relay on the trip bank. If that does the trick, figure out a way to install a coin switch or substitute. But, from your description, that "reset switch" on the door is likely a coin switch substitute. There should be no "credit or start" button from the factory on an Italian market machine.

There's probably more to your issue unless the added reset button is not working or the wires are not making it to the game circuit.

Time for standard electrical troubleshooting techniques.

Good luck.

#6 7 years ago

Thanks MrBally.

I'm still learning my way around the inside of and EM Pinball machine and being wary of what I can and can't do with the power on without killing myself.

I assume when you say to manually activate the start relay, you mean with the power on. What's the best way to do that?

I'm sure there are Pinball machines in heaven, but I'd rather not get there by fixing this one.

Oh, BTW, yes, the reset switch on the door is a coin switch substitute installed later (although before I got the machine).

#7 7 years ago

Press the armature, the flat plate that is normally pulled in by the coil, which is an electromagnet..

#8 7 years ago

(It's plastic)

#9 7 years ago

You guys are being really patient with me, and I appreciate it. So, looking at the first two on the trip bank I see Start and Reset relays. In the picture below, the Start relay, on the left, is the only one in which the armature (please correct my pinball grammar) is below the bottom, pushing the switch into a closed position. Does this look correct?

I am also attaching pictures of the trip bank and the coil. Not seeing any plastic part.

Again, thanks for walking me through this.

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#10 7 years ago

BillMar, this Pinwiki has some good explanations and terminology that may help you understand and communicate any issues you're having.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=EM_Repair

Also some good pictures of various parts there.

#11 7 years ago

Those are good pics, and the relays all seem to be put together correctly. Here are a few terms for you regarding relays:

- The coil core is the central metal post that the coil wire is wrapped around.
- The armature is the flat metal plate that is pulled against the coil core.
- The actuator is the arm that moves the switch blades of the relay.

The coil core and the armature must both be made of a ferromagnetic metal. The portion of the actuator that physically pushes on the switch blades cannot be electrically conductive, so it is usually made of plastic, phenolic, or fiberboard. The parts of the actuator that do not touch the switch blades may or may not be metal.

The actuator may be directly affixed to the armature, or it may be a completely separate piece that is latched into place by an outside force, and is tripped when the armature is pulled against the coil core. This is the type of relay shown in your pics.

In the last pic in post #9, the relay on the far left is latched, and the two relays to the right of it are tripped. The brass metal things with the plastic posts pushing on the switch blades are the actuators. In this pic, looking at the far left relay, in the narrow gap just below the metal actuator you can just see a small spring. That spring is attached to the armature for that relay. If you push that armature plate back by hand, the actuator will be released and will trip, putting the actuator in the same position as the relays next to it.

- TimMe

#13 7 years ago

Thanks TimMe. I reset the armature plate, and still no luck. I tried triggering the start relay by hand, no luck. I made a video to help describe what's going on...

Any thoughts as to what I should look for, do, trouble shoot, would be appreciated.

Happy to shoot/post other videos or even go on FaceTime or skype with someone if you feel like helping me live. Thanks!

Thanks!

#14 7 years ago

Hi all - still hoping for some help with my main issue, if anyone has any thoughts.

In the meantime, another question. Currently, the machine has a reset button on the front door which was installed in place of a coin switch. Press the button, it activates the leaf switch behind it, and game resets. (See image 1 on my first post)

Here's the question, in working my other problem, one of the connections on the leaf switch broke off so I'll need to replace, but before I buy another leaf switch, is there any reason why I couldn't just replace the button with a standard push-button switch (closed when pressed, open when released) instead of using the leaf switch? Wouldn't it achieve the same thing - i.e. a momentary contact to close the circuit?

Thanks!

#15 7 years ago

That would be fine, you just have to make sure the voltage rating is quite high. Back then I'm not sure if Bally used 120V or 30V through the replay circuit. You can probably find one with like a 600V rating quite easily, that may even be the standard.

#16 7 years ago

Hi Bill
Just guessing here, I see the anti cheat relay has not had the switch stacks tightened.
and the contacts look rough.
tighten the switch stacks, clean/adjust the contacts again, and it may work.

#17 7 years ago

Otaku - Thanks! I believe it's 120V on the door. Do I have to worry about the Amps?

Dr_of_Style - Thanks. I'm guessing that "tightening the stacks" is something I should check all over? My guess is that if one is loose than likely others are? And what about general contact cleaning? I've heard people say "don't go cleaning everything - don't fix if it ain't broke." Thoughts?

Thanks!

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