You may talk to other pinsiders about using a meter to measure Ohms and/or to check for continuity - I do not mind.
My opinion is "In a EM-Pin there are many connections - You might measure 'all the way around through windings on transformer' " - You may get the information "HAS continuity" but the pin does not work ...
I do testing with Jumper-Wires - I do testing with "stripe of paper sneaked-in into a switch to keep switch guaranteed open" - I use 6 VAC testlights, 24VAC testlights - I have 6VAC / 24 VAC / 48 VAC / 110 VAC / 220 VAC (new) relays I use for tests - I do have a cheap meter to measure - but I rarely use my meter. Again: It is OK when other pinsiders use their meters - I use my equipment.
WARNING: The manufacturers wanted it "nicely put in order" - they mounted the 110 main power fuse NEXT to other fuses. ALWAYS unplug (!!!) the main power chord - THEN FUMBLE ON THE FUSES.
FIRST: You must find the fuses for the Lights - for 6VAC-Circuitry. UNPLUG the main power chord -> take-out ONE fuse. Plug-in the pin and try to start a game -> something is not working.
Unplug again -> put fuse back in --- take-out another fuse -> look what happens and so on.
Fumble with the uses until You can say: THESE two fuses are for 6VAC-lamps (and mark the places).
Look at the fuse-holder of these two fuses -> On one side of the fuse-holders these two fuse-holders are connected - the "NO, No, Never-clip-on side" --- and the OTHER side is the "Yes, clip-on" , the good side.
So clip-on the wire with the testlight at the good side of a 6VAC fuse and take the other end of Your testlight-wire into the open - NOT touching a thing.
Plug-in, toggle-on, start a game -> now hold the end of Your testlight at the insulation and touch my "marked-orange" points / orange letters -> the testlight should light-up. The twelve rivets on Clock-Unit etc. Greetings Rolf