Hi Pat, That's great! My schematic time wasn't kind to one corner. looks like a treasure map missing bits and SO brittle and aged I just leave it in the filing cabinet. So a copy would be exceptional Thank you.

The grommets I listed above are smaller then the original but I'm going to try it, as far as switches some of mine could use new contacts and stack switches I can't find. PBResource sells contacts and blades you can cut to length but those have a Gottlieb feel to them which I'm trying to avoid! Maybe I can just pop out the worn contacts and press new ones in. I'll worry about that later..

I found out that my home run plastic isn't original, from what I find is that it's from a Grand Slam machine. I thought it was strange seeing the cut out where the extra inning is. See the pic below of my machine just a couple days after setting it up, the plastic is on it in this photo.

Then found an ebay seller selling a machine right now. And I thought I paid too much.. this one is rough but gives me an idea of what the original plastic is supposed to look like in principle.

1964 Williams Grand Slam - Plastic example.jpg
MLB - One of the first pics of the machine.jpg
1963 Home Run Plastic - Ebay sale.JPG

I'll get the schematic scanned and will send you the file. I don't know if it'll help, but here is a pic I found on the web for the art work on the plastic. I can snap pics or give you some measurements of my plastic if needed

image.jpg

Pat

Hi,
I received my pitching motor back from PBR, so this week its time to get the recently acquired 63 Major League game working. I had PBR change the motor to 24 volt as it was a 50 volt hack when I bought it.

So re wired the motor, removed an additional transformer (shown) and an isolation switch put in the 'front' of the machine. Now I have a hole to fill!
DSC02847.JPG
DSC02885.JPG

Found a missing switch cam roller in the running man motor, 3 coils with broken wire connections and incorrect switch positions on about half a dozen switches. Definitely fingers had been touching things in desperation to get it to work at one time.

I also found an interesting spring arrangement on the bat lever quite clever but too weak. This was done as the spring post was gone. As I have fabricated a bunch of bat lever assemblies no issue just switched it out. However, If you look because the 'hack' spring was under the lever fulcrum point it caused wear at the top of the front molding due to its misalignment. Cheap fix but damage not fixable without a new front moulding.
DSC02862.JPG
DSC02888.JPG

DSC02890.JPG

The bat works at full on power no where else on the rheostat settings. I will clean this and hopefully get if working.

The pitching speed is slow and slow. I adjusted the spring but no better. So need to reduce the bat power to make it not so easy. Just tested this but not my best idea you need the bat power to get the home run. All now works so it is now in full restore line. Start with the pitching unit possibly a new spring and rebuild for sure.

I need a new..... yup plastics. I have read the clay tutorial and he makes it sound easy. So easy is the key word for me so I am going to try to make the mold etc. if some one thinks about the decal.

Note; Pictures now uploaded and a few extra lines added.

_{Post edited by SteveinTexas: adding pic's}

Pat I can work with that image! Thank you. No matter what, software is involved so that's all I needed, my plastic fits perfectly just the proper art was missing.

I'd have full time slow pitch too Steve, a bunch of switches are too far open to engage and the fast relay is one of them. (pic below)

You've raised a good point about the plastic. Sounds like two camps, replace plastic outright or just apply a decal. I can arrange that, you can have the first run off if the alignment fits, that will be done on vinyl. My goal for the full replacement is to create consistent manufactured, quality goods using modern materials, the main thing is to be able to deal with a single one or many at a time.

After some thought, I'll try a clear flexible scratch resistant material and the image will go on the back. That way it will shine, and can be cleaned or polished in the future without in any way compromising the finish of the image. How does that sound? The big test is that it doesn't crack when screwed in, it WILL be field tested =D

Fast Relay switch too far open.jpg

Talk to you guys later.

That switch looks worn out in the picture! I use PBR switch stuff all the time to remake contacts etc. So happy that Steve Young makes them and it is fast just takes a minute or to and on to the next.

The vinyl decal sounds great. I will start this molding stuff this week.

Guys help me out here. Does the plastic need to be white? Meaning will the decal be printed on clear? I need to source material this week so will look for what is available per the Clay tutorial material recommended.

Steve your cheapest route is a white plastic, acrylic or something if your home making it. the decal will be on a clear material for testing alignment on the original piece. So for it to work in your case is to use a white material that allows light through.

Wow, I replaced the pitching spring from another game and what a difference! I can't hit half of the balls now. No chance of ever hurting the plastic as I can't hit the bloody ramp.

Hahaha…I had the same thing once I cleaned pitching unit and put a new spring in, but I neglected to clean up the brake solenoid assembly on the back of the pitching unit. Once that was done, I was able to adjust to a normal fast speed, and best of all I couldn’t hear when that assembly randomly kicks off allowing full spring fast tension fast ball….pretty darn cool!!!

I have researched material locally and pretty we'll memorized Clays vacuum forming tutorial. See http://www.pinrepair.com/vacuum/

First issue is a big issue. It won't get close to fitting in a home oven. It's 22" long and with a jig frame surround max size is about 28" long. So I have three options:

I told my wife the oven is old and needs changing for a new larger one as she is such a great cook. She said yes as long as we got a matching fridge first. So that's not going to happen.

Second idea is to make the center part with the mold and add the wings. We will need a backing sheet to glue it together. The sheet thickness if one can be 0.060" thick or two pieces 0.040" thick. Both strong enough if it's PETG material as recommended. If not hey we still have a mold. make another!

Third idea is also my wife's and I need to think more about it before I share. It is a one piece option and could work but I need to test first before we get idea number two made.

Last issue Spencer is the decal. Can we make it on a white background, the PETG material is clear and we have two joints to mask? If I get material this week will know over the weekend if this will work my end.

Steve

I sent you a PM, tons of options!

Ok finally got the PETG Thursday. Place order with fast signs for decal. Measured the space that the plastic will go and you know my plastic must have shrunk! The space is 22 1/8" and my plastic is 21 7/8". It looks wrong. So remake the mold to be 1/4" longer.

Called the printer to stop for new art. New art made by graphics designer and we are go again. Between thunder storms Sat and Sun made the plastic on the BBQ grill with 9 good and 5 not. Webbing issues. It is actually for a simple vacuum form difficult to do at home due to the shape. However we have some success. Get decals this week. I suppose we can make all the different game plastics that have the hole, it seems that we just remove some art as the rest appears to be the same.

Anyway pictures during the week, fingers crossed I can put the reverse decal on straight , spray the back side translucent white, cover light part and finish grey silver and done.

Update Nov 2014; I made a new topic to show the plastic manufacture and how it all came out. See link
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/who-wants-major-league-grand-slam-big-inning-target-plastics

Steve J

Hello All! I'm glad this thread is still open, lot's of information here. I'm at a stage where I'm wondering which switches for slam/tilt are Open and which ones need to be closed and if I wired the mercury switch in correctly.

I took pictures of the Coin door, board where there are two switches one of them is the "Anti-Cheat" which from what I can tell is Normally closed. Also a pic of the mercury switch.

Is the coin door the "shake tilt sw"? as well as the bottom board weighted switch?

Thank you in advance

ShakeTilt NO.JPGCoin Door switch.JPGBoardSwitch1.JPGMercurySwitchwiring.JPGIthink anti cheat.JPG

I am working on the same 1963 major league machine. Mine has not been stored poorly for about 20 years. Previously it had the batting mechanism changed to a button and the coil mechanism removed. I am have some issues getting it reset and initialized for play. I suspect some parts may need greasing, but I am having trouble with the start sequence for the game. I am trying manually trigger the coils to the unit to start. Any one know the sequence of coils to start the unit?

Any ideas on how to reset the machine assuming it was unplugged during a play sequence?

I'll try to help as much as I can

I don't have the start sequence but do know the coin relay,second relay behind the play meter on left side of relay board, pulls in on start buton pressed with credits, or with 10 cent coin drop on my game. The start relay will then pull in second causing the reset cycle.

Do you have lights? Do you have credits?

Tdotted,
Pat, will help you I am sure but you will need to buy a schematic from PBR. It's a must on this game I think to help you with the set up sequence. Last point is your interesting comment "some parts may need greasing". You will get joy and progress once you clean the old grease from the steppers more grease will not be needed.

When I force the coil relay, the start relay and lock relay energize and the lights come on (looks like I have a few burnt out bulbs, but good for the most part). The control motor is at the index position and not moving. The match unit stepper is buzzing loudly and the coil is energized. I think the buzzing is a result of the coil being pull in and the unit not being tight to the wooden cabinet. If I push the edge of the stepper mechanism against the cabinet the buzzing quiets. Should this match unit stepper relay remain energized?

At this point if I have credits or not the bat or pitching does not work.

If I press the 25cent relay the control motor will rotate once around and stop back at the index position. The coin relay and start relay will de-energize. The lock relay will remain energized and the game over relay will latch. The credit motor will decrements.

Regarding the cleaning the grease from the the stepper motors. Is there a good you tube video or reference on how to do this. I am very green when it comes to electro-mechanical machines, so seeing the process before I attempt will help me. Is it possible to clean the stepper without un-soldering all the connections?

Yes you are able to clean the steppers without unsoldering connections. But you need a digital camera to take a bunch of pics to help you put it back together. Make sure you know where the spring connect etc.

Continue taking pics as you remove the springs, then the coil stops holding the coil/ coils in place and any switches. Remember take many pictures and for reference the center spring if fitted is usually wound twice. Then remove the hold down screws to free from the board. The front Bakelite wiring part has a center nut to unto fingers or other type of moving part and then finally the four screws and the metal parts are separated from the electrical parts. Clean them a degreaser. When clean use the pics to put back together.

This is the basis for cleaning all steppers so when you have successfully completed one you are on the way to getting this game going. Do you have a schematic?

Thanks for the basics on cleaning. I do have a schematic. I got one from PBR. What a great resource!

After you degrease, use something like scotch-brite to buff the contact faces on the plate. Gently do the same on their spring loaded counterparts on the rotating half.

If this assembly is gummed up I'd do the rest of the stepper units to, chances are they need service as well. The leaf switches, service them as well.

Update on my machine, I'm pretty sure I wound the pitcher assembly spring too tight and eventually blew the gearbox. Otherwise the game worked great! Frosted White LEDS to illuminate the targets and backglass, the big bulbs I'm still working on finding small LED's for a large 110v socket behind the coin door.

Check this site out for a good into to electro machines.
https://havepinwilltravel.wordpress.com/intro-to-em-pinball-machines-and-their-schematics/

Nighthawk -

Are you looking to use large LED's to replace the 110v incandescent bulbs that light up the field? If so, let me know what you end up using.

I have a '66 Williams Pitch and Bat (similar to your game) and I find the standard (25 or 40 watt) light bulbs do not throw much actual light onto the field.

Thanks -

Greg

Head_ON.jpg

For the two 110v lamps in the backbox I'm using Cree A19 series "Daylight LED 60w". They are warm to the touch and throw off tons of light to the running man unit. I got mine from Home Depot

http://www.creecanada.com/documents/literature/Cree%20Canada%20Bulb%20A19%20Sales%20Sheet.pdf

Unfortunately they are too big for behind the coin door because they touch both the lens and the coin mech but are not squeezed in, simply rest against these surfaces. Since they are only warm that might not be a big deal to everyone but I really don't like lamps touching anything.

The moment I find something I like I'll share it for sure.

Nighthawk -

My back box uses a fluorescent light which lights up the running man unit nicely. I'm talking about the two in the cabinet that light up the play field.

Sounds like yours might use 110v in both the back box and play field. I'm with you, don't really want a bulb to touch the lens or coin door.

Keep in touch with what you find out. Thanks!

Yes A19 110v sockets for standard incandescent bulbs which burned the underside of the apron so bad I'm surprised it didn't cause a flare up in the last 50 years.

Pics of the leds I was suggesting for the running man unit but ill fitted in the coin box area. Instant ON is what I like about them and super bright. IMG_20150914_224719.jpgIMG_20150914_224733.jpgIMG_20150909_180126.jpg