Door seems to have minimum dents. Will clean up perfect. Did I send you a door logo if not pm me.

The coin plates are there, abet now orange. Might be ok underneath.

Wrong front molding but no biggy.

Should come out good.

The door paint color answer to your question is in the picture. Same as the hinge, silver/grey hammer finish.

Green trim same as the cabinet if a faithful restore.

Moulding appears to be in very good condition.

I will follow with interest, it’s a very good game.

Will come out nice.

The coin plates might be flipped before painting you never know.

looks great. Can't wait to see the rest.

That rubber is available from Marco Specialties. They have a few slugfest parts for the bat mech. Put in slugfest baseball on their search engine and you will see what they have.

Yes, fair comment. I learned it’s all about the prep.

Wow, that’s a big improvement. Nice work.

Did you purchase a replacement return spring from Marco?

This is a great thread for restorers to reference when fixing up these great games. Hopefully by cross referencing other related but hard to find topics we can together help fellow restorers find parts.

Regarding parts for Williams bat assemblies from 1957 thru the Slug-fest game there are parts and information in this tutorial from a few years back directly related to this subject. Unfortunately the search feature does not not always pick these up. See https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/update-your-1957-c-5161-batter-unit-assembly-with-a-slugfest-bat#post-3888923 thread #8. Bat Assembly (resized).jpg

The Slugfest spring listed as a # 10-431 is also the correct spring.

The bat plunger changed diameter with the coil size. The earlier plungers in the 57/58 models was larger than the plungers thru 1963(Major League ) by a tad and the Slugfest is a much smaller diameter. Note the earlier plunger from 57 /58 can be sand papered down in a drill press to work in a few seconds with the more powerful coil used in the next few years.

Be careful that you do know if you have a 'swapped' part in your game (we all mostly do) when searching for replacement parts.

The tables in the linked topic can help with identifying parts from different games that might work in your game. Note some game labels have the game # which tells you where the part originated. Apologizes if I have linked before. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-baseball-game-motor-coils-and-bat-assembly-information#post-5234306.

I have not had the time to add that. I had not realized that there could be an issue until I added the larger coil used In games mean’t for the plastic bat not a metal bat in a 58 Short Stop. The early plunger would stick in the brass sleeve. However, I was able to sand it a tad down and it fits well now. Williams were always tinkering with the games you can see this in the schematics year by year. It was a dynamic time in their R&d dept for sure getting the best out of these games.

I know I am tinkering with the originality but this is reversible and the less powerful coil is stowed in the back of the game. I am not sure how the games worked when the mech’s were not worn. There was a nylon washer at the interface of the cam and the pitching assembly that was there to reduce friction on the Short Stop So that said I was trying to get more power and zip to this game which I achieved to a point. In this game I seem to be unable to get another 1/2 turn to the pitching cam spring to fire that ball really fast like my other games.

Referencing Williams R&D tinkering, one of my games cam lever has 2 spring stop screw holes that permits another 1/2 turn or more than The other games. The speed from the fast ball is so fast it can be unhittable. I had to readjust to take some power off.

I will review the Williams parts books and see how much I can add to the tables.

Don’t move the spring tension position until you try it in the game. Power is lost as it is fighting gravity and pressure from the flap and springs material. Speed makes the game more fun!

The solenoid pulls in and you have a fast ball. The spade connector is for a spring to return rn the plunger. You need a spring.

Early games like the Shortstop had no spring not sure why they added it to later games other than it was needed to improve the efficiency of the assembly.

Montana gold where ?

The red on the playfield Wood is a red as you describe. I probably had it mixed special.

Yes. It is a light tension spring.

Nice find. That rubber part was used on a few games an example the 58 Short Stop and eventually goes hard and brittle.

The bat has a rheostat that adjusts the power of the bat. Some I have found will only work at max power and bat does not move at other settings.

I have a few rheostats that are larger in size than the original. You can have one if you want. This is a 110 V circuit.

I believe the top line is for awarding replays. The left side line is for setting the bar when setting the high score. My memory may be faulty as I never beat the high score or get too many replays as the ball is pitched a little to fast and the curve ball is unhittable.

Duplicate

Super Home Run! You join a small group.