(Topic ID: 268998)

1962 Williams World Series Resto Begins

By Playdium

3 years ago


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  • 101 posts
  • 14 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by KUCAREVI
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#1 3 years ago

Just starting in on the restoration on the '62 World Series. As far as the coin door and the front molding goes, were these originally painted? These had orange paint applied.
Started in on the lower motor board and tested the score motor and all steppers electrically. All ok there, but in need of a deep cleaning.

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#3 3 years ago

So how should the orange trim area on the wood molding be finished?

#6 3 years ago

And the fun begins.

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#7 3 years ago

The 1962 Williams Parts Catalog show there are 2 different snowshoe wipers. Part #1A-2098 for oval head rivets, and #1A-2000 for flat head rivets. How are these designed differently?
I was planning on replacing a few flatted wipers. There is a slight bent at the top of the wiper. Is this how it remains in position?

1 week later
#8 3 years ago

Just finishing up the new motor board.

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#11 3 years ago

On to the bat assembly. This will take a long bath in Evaporust then a thorough hand polishing. I wonder if this was ever taken apart. Plunger looks questionable. Will try to polish and see how it turns out. The rubber bumper #23A-6312 looks like it melted, but I think I'll try a rubber sleeve that is used on some pinball playfields.

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#14 3 years ago

I just ordered the Eastwood Plating Kit. So hopefully that will help.
As far as the bat assembly goes, the plunger holes are elongated so a replacement was just ordered.
Also ordered the rubber bumpers that are shown.
I can't really see on the Williams exploded diagram this coil stop bracket. The spring design is interesting. Their diagrams aren't as detailed as Gottlieb diagrams.

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#16 3 years ago
Quoted from Blake:

Eastwood plating, I have not heard of that. Might be looking into it myself.
Parts cleaned up nicely. New plunger will probably be night and day difference.
Thanks
Blake

https://www.eastwood.com/ew-electroplating-system-tin-zinc.html?SRCCODE=PLA00010&gclid=Cj0KCQjwuJz3BRDTARIsAMg-HxVaEoHEv8suZng-pF8feysLpxiTixTG1nRloHcB68BUl-vps9GOon8aAuMcEALw_wcB

#19 3 years ago
Quoted from EMsInKC:

Have you ever used that plating system before?
I loved pitch and bat games when I was a kid.

No, but it has good reviews and I have used Eastwood products in the past with good results. Also, Steve used it with positive results.

#20 3 years ago

Cabinet repairs underway. The cabinet suffered through its life from being dragged with no legs attached. Speaking of which, I'm looking for a set of original red legs.

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#23 3 years ago

I found some original paint that I should be able to get a good match on. I spent the day cutting stencils. My lower back is NOT happy.

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#26 3 years ago
Quoted from EMsInKC:

Have you ever used that plating system before?
I loved pitch and bat games when I was a kid.

I recently received the Eastwood plating kit, and I'm not too thrilled with the results. If any parts have pitting, this will not cover or fill in those areas. After hand polishing with the polish that is included, a light buff with a dremel wire wheel will improve the shine a bit.
When dipping the item you want to plate in the bath, you sometimes have to keep rotating it away from the anode because heavy build up with occur nearest the anode.
This system is affordable over having everything professionally plated, but the results aren't going to be pristine like new.

#29 3 years ago
Quoted from Blake:

So the pitted holes did not take on the zinc or nickle platting? Were the parts sand blasted previously? Not sure what poslish was included but I have been using Brasso with good results. Here are some of the results I got reconditioning joystick shafts. Used a sanding block (150 grit) first to remove rust or abrasions. Used Novus for the ball/bat tops.
Thanks
Blake
[quoted image][quoted image]

Those look great. No, I don't have a sandblast cabinet. Initial cleaning with 0000 steel wool and Mothers Polish, followed by hand sanding with fine paper. This was done on the curved ball guides on the pitch motor. These sections have pitting as shown. This piece was plated for 7 minutes, rinsed, then hand polished with the provided Autosol polish and a microfiber cloth.
Maybe I'll drop it in the tumbler for 24 hours and see if there is an improvement.

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#31 3 years ago

Re-assembly of the Pitcher Unit is giving me issues. I'm not sure I have the dogs set properly, so any help would be appreciated. The image shows the cam fully rotated in the clockwise direction. I wound this as far as i could go, maybe 1 1/2 revolutions. Then the Stop Dog, (Part #A-4681), which is positioned at the lower right, locks in the cam from releasing thus spinning the pitcher arm.
So how does this Stop Dog get released to allow the ball to be launched.

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#32 3 years ago

After looking at one of Steve's archive photos, I think I may have the 2 Stop Dogs reversed. Back to the shop...

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#34 3 years ago

My error was reversing the 2 Stop Dogs while re-assembly. The circled stem gets pushed outward as the cam turns, releasing the spring tension on the Pitch Arm.

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#36 3 years ago

Just finishing up on the bat assembly. Waiting on a replacement plunger. I did use the Eastwood plating kit for this and the results are as shown. I did see a difference with buffing it out after hand rubbing the Autosol.
Pitch assembly is near complete, but waiting on a coil.

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#39 3 years ago
Quoted from SteveinTexas:

Did you purchase a replacement return spring from Marco?

That spring is part # 10A-101-1A, the same used on the stepper units for this machine. It is included in PBR's spring kit for Williams 50 step units. I ordered several. The bat plunger could only be found in Canada. Still waiting on that.

#41 3 years ago
Quoted from bssbllr:

Could you please post in Canada where you got the bat plunger. You may have already sorry? Also where did you get the rubber mount mine is like your old one. I have a 69’ Williams gridiron pitch and bat that I am continuing to work on. Thanks.

The plunger for the bat assembly is part #2A-2587. I found it at flippers.com for $6.20. The 2 black rubber bumpers are available from Marco Specialties part #23-6312.

#44 3 years ago

With regards to the bat plunger, it might be helpful if you confirm the coil number. The plunger that I mentioned, #2A-2587 fits coil number H23-870 with a brass sleeve.

#47 3 years ago
Quoted from bssbllr:

Thanks man that will help big time.
I do have the manual so does have the part numbers that should help.
Also in pic there is a good amount of play in the circled areas. I assume it is just wore out.
[quoted image]

Yes, if look at the picture I posted in response #14 of this thread, you will see the plunger with the elongated hole. That thing must take a beating.

#48 3 years ago
Quoted from SteveinTexas:

Referencing Williams R&D tinkering, one of my games cam lever has 2 spring stop screw holes that permits another 1/2 turn or more than The other games. The speed from the fast ball is so fast it can be unhittable. I had to readjust to take some power off.

I will review the Williams parts books and see how much I can add to the tables.

When I reassembled my pitch unit, I placed the spring in the first notch creating the most tension. But while bench testing it electrically, I noticed that thing really whips around. Maybe I'll move it to the middle notch.

#49 3 years ago

I just received the bat assembly plunger. It is shown next to my original that has significant wear.
The process is moving along and I am getting deep into it now. Playfield is totally stripped and will get a thorough cleaning. I will need to find the rubber trim that runs across the top arch, as well as along the sides of the playfield.
The upper plated section has that black tar on it as Steve mentioned in his restoration. I don't know how that will react to being submerged in Evaporust. It's too late to have it plated as I already sent out the entire ball return sections last week.

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#50 3 years ago

Did these metal posts have a rubber insulator? They are for the upper section of the playfield.

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#53 3 years ago
Quoted from SteveinTexas:

Don’t move the spring tension position until you try it in the game. Power is lost as it is fighting gravity and pressure from the flap and springs material. Speed makes the game more fun!

OK, will do.
Just finished assembly of the pitch mechanism with rebuilt motor. Not sure how the brake pad will work on the fast pitch solenoid. I replaced the spade connector as I found it. Did this assembly have low voltage running through it like a Ball Count Unit?

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#54 3 years ago

Selecting Montana Gold Paint for the machine, and looking at the reds, nothing looks close. The red on the machine appears to be red-orange. ???

#57 3 years ago
Quoted from SteveinTexas:

Montana gold where ?
The red on the playfield Wood is a red as you describe. I probably had it mixed special.

Montana Gold is the paint version name. I was comparing their reds and original color looks more red-orange. I will experiment with what they offer.

#58 3 years ago
Quoted from SteveinTexas:

The solenoid pulls in and you have a fast ball. The spade connector is for a spring to return rn the plunger. You need a spring.
Early games like the Shortstop had no spring not sure why they added it to later games other than it was needed to improve the efficiency of the assembly.

Another spring ? LOL
Is this where it would attach?

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#60 3 years ago

I found a replacement upper arch rubber seal from Austin Hardware & Supply. It fits the same as the original, although it is not a flat top but rounded top. Looks fine and measures the same.
https://www.austinhardware.com/rubber-edge-trim-for-1-16-mtl.html

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#62 3 years ago

Coin door finished. I haven't worked on the wiring that was modified yet, and the coin mech's probably aren't going back in. I think I will plate the coin return plungers though.

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1 week later
#63 3 years ago

The cabinet is stripped and ready for filler and primer.

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1 week later
#64 3 years ago

Playfield is 90% complete. Just need to mount the bat and pitch assemblies. I had the ball return chute nickel plated.

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1 week later
#65 3 years ago

The cabinet is painted and on to white paint splatter. May try a white lacquer with the splatter brush. I had some issues with applying the Montana paint, but members here helped out with advice. Keep the can 6" from surface when applying. Used a #6 cap with very good results.

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1 month later
#66 3 years ago

Well it's been awhile since my last posting, and I had to strip the cabinet down due to the Montana paint and the stencil adhesive having a chemical reaction. Here is the cabinet finally done with no problems following Jeff's suggestion to use Rust-O-Leum gloss. The stencil peeled very easily compared to when the Montana paint was applied. Absolutely no paint pull or adhesive sticking to the paint. Big thanks to Jeff and his superb product. I am very happy with the finished look.
Now onto the rest of the restoration.

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#67 3 years ago

Coin door with hammered grey. Before and after.

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1 week later
#68 3 years ago

This credit unit coil is smoked. This may well be the cause why the machine was put into storage.

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#69 3 years ago

Cabinet is nearly completed. Now onto the back box. "Super Home Run" plastic thanks to Shay.

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1 week later
#70 3 years ago

Moving on to the running man unit. Looks to be interesting with disassembly.

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#71 3 years ago

All 8 stepper units broken down and cleaned. The score reels polished up nicely with Novus 2.

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#72 3 years ago

Looking for this brass retainer for the running man frame on a 1962 Williams baseball machine.

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2 weeks later
#73 3 years ago

Well, most of the restoration is complete. I do not have the running man unit rebuilt as of yet, as I am awaiting the motor to be rebuilt. I did apply power and am trying to follow the start circuit as shown in the attachment.

I have power running from the 25 cent relay to the coin switch, and through the door slam switch. When a quarter is dropped in the coin chute, a relay becomes energized. At his time when the credit button is pressed, the coin switch coil pulls in. I manually tested the runs stepper, name stepper, out stepper and all advance on the light box. There are no balls in the machine as of right now.

What is the function of the "Index Relay" that appears to be part of the start sequence?

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1 month later
#75 3 years ago

Looks like the last problem seems to be the bat operation. Pitching unit, run scoring, outs are all functioning, but the bat handle does not function. Yes I have 110 volts to the bat handle switch. But I am missing something within the circuit. (????)
Also what is the function of the Mixer Unit and when does it energize. I have not seen it function at all. The coil is good and it does step when jumpered.

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#78 3 years ago
Quoted from cooke:

Anyone got a part number for these posts? I'm missing one in the game I'm working on.

The catalogs do not show that part. It may be, because it's considered part of the play field. (?) I would think a pinball stud could be substituted.

#79 3 years ago
Quoted from gutz:

The Mixer Unit is for the randomized pitches. It should advance every pitch. If you are not seeing different pitches, its not working.
IIRC - and I remember it being counter intuitive - the bat relay is not energized when you swing. A normally closed switch on the bat relay sends power to the bat coil. When the bat coil fires, it hits the normally open EOS switch that energizes the bat relay and cuts power to the bat (allowing only one swing per pitch). Each new pitch deenergizes the bat relay so you can swing again.

Thanks for the input. This is what I am finding.
Mixer Unit does not advance when pitch button is pressed. However, the pitch motor, Fast Relay, and Pitcher Relay do energize.
By manually closing the EOS on the Bat Coil, the Bat Coil Relay does engage and hold until the pitch button is pressed. Still Bat Coil will not fire. It appears that something is open in the circuit.

Any thoughts??

#81 3 years ago
Quoted from SteveinTexas:

The bat has a rheostat that adjusts the power of the bat. Some I have found will only work at max power and bat does not move at other settings.

I have found the Bat Coil circuit is back feeding 26 volts thus blowing the fuse at the rheostat when the bat handle switch closes. I've isolated the cross with voltage to be in the harness between both jones plugs. Dissecting begins...

#83 3 years ago
Quoted from SteveinTexas:

I have a few rheostats that are larger in size than the original. You can have one if you want. This is a 110 V circuit.

Thanks Steve. Let me first isolate this issue and see if I can get the bat to function.

#84 3 years ago
Quoted from Playdium:

Thanks for the input. This is what I am finding.
Mixer Unit does not advance when pitch button is pressed. However, the pitch motor, Fast Relay, and Pitcher Relay do energize.
By manually closing the EOS on the Bat Coil, the Bat Coil Relay does engage and hold until the pitch button is pressed. Still Bat Coil will not fire. It appears that something is open in the circuit.
Any thoughts??

This spring on the pitching motor unit is shot and the cause for the switch not engaging the Mixing Unit.

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2 weeks later
#86 3 years ago
Quoted from Playdium:

This spring on the pitching motor unit is shot and the cause for the switch not engaging the Mixing Unit.[quoted image]

This is the Pitcher Torsion Spring part #10A-178. Can someone who has a micrometer and caliper measure the O.D., I.D., and gauge? I'll have to order one. THX

#87 3 years ago

For the "3 Piece Bat Assembly" for a Williams 1962 World Series, you will need a Woodruff Key. Mine was missing and there is too much play in the assembly without it causing the cotter pin to snap off. I found the correct size at my local Ace Hardware. It is 3/32" x 1/2" and cost .65 cents. I also used a 1/16" x 1" cotter pin.
(Thanks Steve for the tip)

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#88 3 years ago

I have a question as to the function of the "Run Step Up" stepper. It has a 45 position cam with reset. When a run registers, the Run Step Up advances and then the score reel advances. After 45 runs score, the Run Step Up no longer can advance and will not advance the score reels.
I am not sure if the Run Step Up only resets when a new game is started.
Schematic image attached.

Thanks

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3 weeks later
#89 3 years ago
Quoted from Playdium:

I have a question as to the function of the "Run Step Up" stepper. It has a 45 position cam with reset. When a run registers, the Run Step Up advances and then the score reel advances. After 45 runs score, the Run Step Up no longer can advance and will not advance the score reels.
I am not sure if the Run Step Up only resets when a new game is started.
Schematic image attached.
Thanks
[quoted image]

Here is the run unit reset, coil #B-29-1600, which never resets during game play. This causes runs not to score. The reset must engage for additional scoring past 45. I am not sure how it knows when the cam is fully advanced, to then reset it.
First pic shows cam fully advanced to 45 runs, second pic is at full reset.

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#90 3 years ago

Finished pics of the machine. Just some minor details to adjust and to find glass for it. Many thanks to SteveinTexas and the rest of the Pinside community for all of your assistance. I really enjoyed saving this machine even with the countless hours of work involved.
Thanks also to Steve Young for assistance with gear motor work as there are 3 motors within this machine, Shay Assad for providing perfect reproduction back glass and plastic Special Home Run inserts, and Pinball Pimp Jeff Miller for greatly needed assistance with stencils.

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#93 3 years ago

I am also curious about the pin settings on the Run Step Up unit. The single pin at the left is a Green/Red that runs back to the "Hi Score Impulse Relay". The top plugs have a 3 pin jumper. How and what do these plugs do to affect game play?

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#97 3 years ago
Quoted from gutz:

The jumper on the left is the automatic hi score reel reset. If it was set in the lowest spot of 30, any game scoring more than 30 runs will have the hi score reels automatically reset after that game. The top jumper is the run numbers that give a free credit. Lots of different combos possible, but it looks like your plugs will win a credit at 16, 20, 24, 32, and 40 runs.

Quoted from SteveinTexas:

I believe the top line is for awarding replays. The left side line is for setting the bar for resetting the high score. My memory may be faulty as I never beat the high score or get too many replays as the ball is pitched a little to fast and the curve ball is unhittable.

Thanks for that. Is searched all over the schematic for theses settings and came up blank.
While playing the game briefly I did manage a "Super Home Run" with bases loaded thus lighting the flashing "Grand Slam" lights. It was a successful feeling to see the game operate as it was intended.

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