(Topic ID: 268998)

1962 Williams World Series Resto Begins

By Playdium

2 years ago


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  • 101 posts
  • 14 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by KUCAREVI
  • Topic is favorited by 8 Pinsiders

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There are 101 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 3.
#1 2 years ago

Just starting in on the restoration on the '62 World Series. As far as the coin door and the front molding goes, were these originally painted? These had orange paint applied.
Started in on the lower motor board and tested the score motor and all steppers electrically. All ok there, but in need of a deep cleaning.

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#2 2 years ago

Door seems to have minimum dents. Will clean up perfect. Did I send you a door logo if not pm me.

The coin plates are there, abet now orange. Might be ok underneath.

Wrong front molding but no biggy.

Should come out good.

The door paint color answer to your question is in the picture. Same as the hinge, silver/grey hammer finish.

#3 2 years ago

So how should the orange trim area on the wood molding be finished?

#4 2 years ago

Green trim same as the cabinet if a faithful restore.

Moulding appears to be in very good condition.

I will follow with interest, it’s a very good game.

Will come out nice.

The coin plates might be flipped before painting you never know.

#5 2 years ago

Following. I’m slowly restoring this game’s little brother, a 1963 Major League. Great games!

#6 2 years ago

And the fun begins.

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#7 2 years ago

The 1962 Williams Parts Catalog show there are 2 different snowshoe wipers. Part #1A-2098 for oval head rivets, and #1A-2000 for flat head rivets. How are these designed differently?
I was planning on replacing a few flatted wipers. There is a slight bent at the top of the wiper. Is this how it remains in position?

1 week later
#8 1 year ago

Just finishing up the new motor board.

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#9 1 year ago

Nice job. I just finished up on a Williams Gulfstream and know it takes a good amount of time to get an assembly looking that clean.

Thanks
Blake

#10 1 year ago

looks great. Can't wait to see the rest.

#11 1 year ago

On to the bat assembly. This will take a long bath in Evaporust then a thorough hand polishing. I wonder if this was ever taken apart. Plunger looks questionable. Will try to polish and see how it turns out. The rubber bumper #23A-6312 looks like it melted, but I think I'll try a rubber sleeve that is used on some pinball playfields.

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#12 1 year ago

That rubber is available from Marco Specialties. They have a few slugfest parts for the bat mech. Put in slugfest baseball on their search engine and you will see what they have.

#13 1 year ago

After your rust removal do you plan on coating it with a clear? The trough assembly on my Gulfstream was very rusty and much of the zinc/nickle plating was gone (mice piss does a number). So after cleanup and polish I hit it with a few light coats of Polyclear (sanding between coats) to stop any future tarnishing.

thanks
Blake

#14 1 year ago

I just ordered the Eastwood Plating Kit. So hopefully that will help.
As far as the bat assembly goes, the plunger holes are elongated so a replacement was just ordered.
Also ordered the rubber bumpers that are shown.
I can't really see on the Williams exploded diagram this coil stop bracket. The spring design is interesting. Their diagrams aren't as detailed as Gottlieb diagrams.

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#15 1 year ago

Eastwood plating, I have not heard of that. Might be looking into it myself.

Parts cleaned up nicely. New plunger will probably be night and day difference.

Thanks
Blake

#16 1 year ago
Quoted from Blake:

Eastwood plating, I have not heard of that. Might be looking into it myself.
Parts cleaned up nicely. New plunger will probably be night and day difference.
Thanks
Blake

https://www.eastwood.com/ew-electroplating-system-tin-zinc.html?SRCCODE=PLA00010&gclid=Cj0KCQjwuJz3BRDTARIsAMg-HxVaEoHEv8suZng-pF8feysLpxiTixTG1nRloHcB68BUl-vps9GOon8aAuMcEALw_wcB

#18 1 year ago
Quoted from Playdium:

I just ordered the Eastwood Plating Kit. So hopefully that will help.
As far as the bat assembly goes, the plunger holes are elongated so a replacement was just ordered.
Also ordered the rubber bumpers that are shown.
I can't really see on the Williams exploded diagram this coil stop bracket. The spring design is interesting. Their diagrams aren't as detailed as Gottlieb diagrams.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Have you ever used that plating system before?

I loved pitch and bat games when I was a kid.

#19 1 year ago
Quoted from EMsInKC:

Have you ever used that plating system before?
I loved pitch and bat games when I was a kid.

No, but it has good reviews and I have used Eastwood products in the past with good results. Also, Steve used it with positive results.

#20 1 year ago

Cabinet repairs underway. The cabinet suffered through its life from being dragged with no legs attached. Speaking of which, I'm looking for a set of original red legs.

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#21 1 year ago

Are you sure the original legs were red? The two machines Ive seen had grey legs.

#22 1 year ago

Very nice work. I bet that tightened everything up.

Thanks
Blake

#23 1 year ago

I found some original paint that I should be able to get a good match on. I spent the day cutting stencils. My lower back is NOT happy.

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#24 1 year ago
Quoted from Blake:

After your rust removal do you plan on coating it with a clear? The trough assembly on my Gulfstream was very rusty and much of the zinc/nickle plating was gone (mice piss does a number). So after cleanup and polish I hit it with a few light coats of Polyclear (sanding between coats) to stop any future tarnishing.
thanks
Blake

Agree with this 100%. Its what I do

#25 1 year ago
Quoted from Playdium:

Cabinet repairs underway. The cabinet suffered through its life from being dragged with no legs attached. Speaking of which, I'm looking for a set of original red legs.

My WS has red legs as do my other Williams pitch and bats from 58-60. You don't need to find red legs however -- acquire regular legs and spray them with Krylon Banner Red, several coats. But DO buy new shiny leg bolts and leg levelers!

#26 1 year ago
Quoted from EMsInKC:

Have you ever used that plating system before?
I loved pitch and bat games when I was a kid.

I recently received the Eastwood plating kit, and I'm not too thrilled with the results. If any parts have pitting, this will not cover or fill in those areas. After hand polishing with the polish that is included, a light buff with a dremel wire wheel will improve the shine a bit.
When dipping the item you want to plate in the bath, you sometimes have to keep rotating it away from the anode because heavy build up with occur nearest the anode.
This system is affordable over having everything professionally plated, but the results aren't going to be pristine like new.

#27 1 year ago
Quoted from Playdium:

I recently received the Eastwood plating kit, and I'm not too thrilled with the results. If any parts have pitting, this will not cover or fill in those areas. After hand polishing with the polish that is included, a light buff with a dremel wire wheel will improve the shine a bit.
When dipping the item you want to plate in the bath, you sometimes have to keep rotating it away from the anode because heavy build up with occur nearest the anode.
This system is affordable over having everything professionally plated, but the results aren't going to be pristine like new.

Yes, fair comment. I learned it’s all about the prep.

#28 1 year ago
Quoted from Playdium:

I recently received the Eastwood plating kit, and I'm not too thrilled with the results. If any parts have pitting, this will not cover or fill in those areas. After hand polishing with the polish that is included, a light buff with a dremel wire wheel will improve the shine a bit.
When dipping the item you want to plate in the bath, you sometimes have to keep rotating it away from the anode because heavy build up with occur nearest the anode.
This system is affordable over having everything professionally plated, but the results aren't going to be pristine like new.

So the pitted holes did not take on the zinc or nickle platting? Were the parts sand blasted previously? Not sure what poslish was included but I have been using Brasso with good results. Here are some of the results I got reconditioning joystick shafts. Used a sanding block (150 grit) first to remove rust or abrasions. Used Novus for the ball/bat tops.

Thanks
Blake
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#29 1 year ago
Quoted from Blake:

So the pitted holes did not take on the zinc or nickle platting? Were the parts sand blasted previously? Not sure what poslish was included but I have been using Brasso with good results. Here are some of the results I got reconditioning joystick shafts. Used a sanding block (150 grit) first to remove rust or abrasions. Used Novus for the ball/bat tops.
Thanks
Blake
[quoted image][quoted image]

Those look great. No, I don't have a sandblast cabinet. Initial cleaning with 0000 steel wool and Mothers Polish, followed by hand sanding with fine paper. This was done on the curved ball guides on the pitch motor. These sections have pitting as shown. This piece was plated for 7 minutes, rinsed, then hand polished with the provided Autosol polish and a microfiber cloth.
Maybe I'll drop it in the tumbler for 24 hours and see if there is an improvement.

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#30 1 year ago

Yes tumbler with walnut media and some Novus 3 or mother’s will probably work like magic.

For hand sanding I like to use varatex or the green scotch brite pads. For some rougher items I will use a steel wheel, sanding spong or whatever grit sandpaper I feel is necessary to remove the major issues. I start with the heavy duty and work my way to the finer grits. It helps polish out before even adding something like Brasso.

The pitting won’t go away but you would think if the cavities were clear of rust and debris that the plating would cover and hide a lot.

Also I bet a buffing wheel utilized in a drill or dremel would make a difference while doing a final polish.

Thanks
Blake

#31 1 year ago

Re-assembly of the Pitcher Unit is giving me issues. I'm not sure I have the dogs set properly, so any help would be appreciated. The image shows the cam fully rotated in the clockwise direction. I wound this as far as i could go, maybe 1 1/2 revolutions. Then the Stop Dog, (Part #A-4681), which is positioned at the lower right, locks in the cam from releasing thus spinning the pitcher arm.
So how does this Stop Dog get released to allow the ball to be launched.

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#32 1 year ago

After looking at one of Steve's archive photos, I think I may have the 2 Stop Dogs reversed. Back to the shop...

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#33 1 year ago

Looking at the photos I can't see the difference. I have no experience on these pitching units so I won't be of much help.

Thanks
Blake

#34 1 year ago

My error was reversing the 2 Stop Dogs while re-assembly. The circled stem gets pushed outward as the cam turns, releasing the spring tension on the Pitch Arm.

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#35 1 year ago
Quoted from Playdium:

My error was reversing the 2 Stop Dogs while re-assembly. The circled stem gets pushed outward as the cam turns, releasing the spring tension on the Pitch Arm.
[quoted image]

Oh I see now. Cool. Easy fix once you figured it out.

Thanks
Blake

#36 1 year ago

Just finishing up on the bat assembly. Waiting on a replacement plunger. I did use the Eastwood plating kit for this and the results are as shown. I did see a difference with buffing it out after hand rubbing the Autosol.
Pitch assembly is near complete, but waiting on a coil.

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#37 1 year ago

Wow, that’s a big improvement. Nice work.

#38 1 year ago

Did you purchase a replacement return spring from Marco?

#39 1 year ago
Quoted from SteveinTexas:

Did you purchase a replacement return spring from Marco?

That spring is part # 10A-101-1A, the same used on the stepper units for this machine. It is included in PBR's spring kit for Williams 50 step units. I ordered several. The bat plunger could only be found in Canada. Still waiting on that.

#40 1 year ago
Quoted from Playdium:

That spring is part # 10A-101-1A, the same used on the stepper units for this machine. It is included in PBR's spring kit for Williams 50 step units. I ordered several. The bat plunger could only be found in Canada. Still waiting on that.

Could you please post in Canada where you got the bat plunger. You may have already sorry? Also where did you get the rubber mount mine is like your old one. I have a 69’ Williams gridiron pitch and bat that I am continuing to work on. Thanks.

#41 1 year ago
Quoted from bssbllr:

Could you please post in Canada where you got the bat plunger. You may have already sorry? Also where did you get the rubber mount mine is like your old one. I have a 69’ Williams gridiron pitch and bat that I am continuing to work on. Thanks.

The plunger for the bat assembly is part #2A-2587. I found it at flippers.com for $6.20. The 2 black rubber bumpers are available from Marco Specialties part #23-6312.

#42 1 year ago

This is a great thread for restorers to reference when fixing up these great games. Hopefully by cross referencing other related but hard to find topics we can together help fellow restorers find parts.

Regarding parts for Williams bat assemblies from 1957 thru the Slug-fest game there are parts and information in this tutorial from a few years back directly related to this subject. Unfortunately the search feature does not not always pick these up. See https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/update-your-1957-c-5161-batter-unit-assembly-with-a-slugfest-bat#post-3888923 thread #8. Bat Assembly (resized).jpg

Quoted from Playdium:

That spring is part # 10A-101-1A, the same used on the stepper units for this machine. It is included in PBR's spring kit for Williams 50 step units. I ordered several. The bat plunger could only be found in Canada. Still waiting on that.

The Slugfest spring listed as a # 10-431 is also the correct spring.

#43 1 year ago
Quoted from bssbllr:

Could you please post in Canada where you got the bat plunger. You may have already sorry? Also where did you get the rubber mount mine is like your old one. I have a 69’ Williams gridiron pitch and bat that I am continuing to work on. Thanks.

The bat plunger changed diameter with the coil size. The earlier plungers in the 57/58 models was larger than the plungers thru 1963(Major League ) by a tad and the Slugfest is a much smaller diameter. Note the earlier plunger from 57 /58 can be sand papered down in a drill press to work in a few seconds with the more powerful coil used in the next few years.

Be careful that you do know if you have a 'swapped' part in your game (we all mostly do) when searching for replacement parts.

The tables in the linked topic can help with identifying parts from different games that might work in your game. Note some game labels have the game # which tells you where the part originated. Apologizes if I have linked before. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-baseball-game-motor-coils-and-bat-assembly-information#post-5234306.

#44 1 year ago

With regards to the bat plunger, it might be helpful if you confirm the coil number. The plunger that I mentioned, #2A-2587 fits coil number H23-870 with a brass sleeve.

#45 1 year ago
Quoted from Playdium:

With regards to the bat plunger, it might be helpful if you confirm the coil number. The plunger that I mentioned, #2A-2587 fits coil number H23-870 with a brass sleeve.

I have not had the time to add that. I had not realized that there could be an issue until I added the larger coil used In games mean’t for the plastic bat not a metal bat in a 58 Short Stop. The early plunger would stick in the brass sleeve. However, I was able to sand it a tad down and it fits well now. Williams were always tinkering with the games you can see this in the schematics year by year. It was a dynamic time in their R&d dept for sure getting the best out of these games.

I know I am tinkering with the originality but this is reversible and the less powerful coil is stowed in the back of the game. I am not sure how the games worked when the mech’s were not worn. There was a nylon washer at the interface of the cam and the pitching assembly that was there to reduce friction on the Short Stop So that said I was trying to get more power and zip to this game which I achieved to a point. In this game I seem to be unable to get another 1/2 turn to the pitching cam spring to fire that ball really fast like my other games.

Referencing Williams R&D tinkering, one of my games cam lever has 2 spring stop screw holes that permits another 1/2 turn or more than The other games. The speed from the fast ball is so fast it can be unhittable. I had to readjust to take some power off.

I will review the Williams parts books and see how much I can add to the tables.

#46 1 year ago
Quoted from Playdium:

The plunger for the bat assembly is part #2A-2587. I found it at flippers.com for $6.20. The 2 black rubber bumpers are available from Marco Specialties part #23-6312.

Thanks man that will help big time.

I do have the manual so does have the part numbers that should help.

Also in pic there is a good amount of play in the circled areas. I assume it is just wore out.

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#47 1 year ago
Quoted from bssbllr:

Thanks man that will help big time.
I do have the manual so does have the part numbers that should help.
Also in pic there is a good amount of play in the circled areas. I assume it is just wore out.
[quoted image]

Yes, if look at the picture I posted in response #14 of this thread, you will see the plunger with the elongated hole. That thing must take a beating.

#48 1 year ago
Quoted from SteveinTexas:

Referencing Williams R&D tinkering, one of my games cam lever has 2 spring stop screw holes that permits another 1/2 turn or more than The other games. The speed from the fast ball is so fast it can be unhittable. I had to readjust to take some power off.

I will review the Williams parts books and see how much I can add to the tables.

When I reassembled my pitch unit, I placed the spring in the first notch creating the most tension. But while bench testing it electrically, I noticed that thing really whips around. Maybe I'll move it to the middle notch.

#49 1 year ago

I just received the bat assembly plunger. It is shown next to my original that has significant wear.
The process is moving along and I am getting deep into it now. Playfield is totally stripped and will get a thorough cleaning. I will need to find the rubber trim that runs across the top arch, as well as along the sides of the playfield.
The upper plated section has that black tar on it as Steve mentioned in his restoration. I don't know how that will react to being submerged in Evaporust. It's too late to have it plated as I already sent out the entire ball return sections last week.

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#50 1 year ago

Did these metal posts have a rubber insulator? They are for the upper section of the playfield.

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