As you can probably tell by my posts I like messing with the more unusual mechanical things as much as playing the games. So for others interested like me or plan to change the platter, I have added some descriptions that might be needed to strip down to clean, fix and change.

The Williams Nags game has two very interesting mechanical features. The rotating bumpers have been discussed here on Pinside recently. The other is the moving horse’s mechanism in the back box, both mechanisms are so cool. I will add a topic on the moving horse mechanism in another post and with that in mind I have a question that you might ponder, how does a cow help a horse win a race?
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So back to putting things on my platter. The rotating bumpers are mounted on a rotating platter that I recently had to remake and this topic is fitting out of the rotating mechanism onto the platter and into a playfield. Here is the link to making a playfield platter: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-1960-nags-platter-replacement

I have made other replacement platters for the game and this will help others replace it back in their game if they decide to. Note the game has about a 1/16” diameter gap between the platter and the playfield hole and this means that some accuracy is needed in making the new platter. The first picture shows the platter after being dropped in the game with no adjustment. The game has some rotating roller guides to help it to turn concentrically. The roller guides are more than able to guide the platter with the tolerances built into the mechanisms so alignment issues will not be more than a tedious one hour trial and error experience.

It would be very difficult to make the platter without an original template, I am sure the original R&D work was not as not as simple as one might think, a lot of trial and error. There is a lot of holes to be made for the bumpers and the associated hardware. All needs to be accurately transferred to the new platter so it will all work. However, having the original platter template is the key.

During the recent topic about making the platter I had marked and drilled the locations for the bumper parts and made a Mylar drilling template for the remaining hardware screw locations. So now taking this template I placed it on the first platter and used some tacky spray to keep it in place. I used a suitable diameter drill bit slightly less of a diameter than the smallest # 6X ½” long original screw, nothing to exact needed. When happy with the alignment of the template I drilled 3/8” deep blind-holes into the platter with a dremel through the Mylar and all this took only a few minutes.
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The first thing to reassemble is the collar plate onto the center hole followed by the center shaft and its metal dowelled locator plate.as shown.
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The next stage is to add the wiring harness and center assembly over the shaft and into the correct position.
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8._Hardware_Dry_Location.jpg

More to come later. This seems to be the max we can upload regarding number of pictures.

I am looking at the caps, not too hopeful. I have an idea and using the caps from PBR will try to make a proper center (Vacuum form). If so a decal will work for the horse name. Will be trying to make in the next month or so.

Here is the rest of the topic.

I used my stapler to secure the electrical common wires making sure they did not get in half an inch of the outside edge of the platter, as this is the area for the platter leveler roller rotates. I then install the bumper frames and the spoon switches loosely to ensure they all align well. I would change the bumper coils at this time if you feel the need.

I then turned over the platter to start installing the bumper assemblies and line all the holes up to ensure the correct clearances were available. Then fit the plastics, springs, light holders in place along with the bumper rod and ring.
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So now back to the underside again and remove the bumper frames to build easier the bumper coil, springs etc and then replace onto the platter and connect to the upper body rod and rings. Position the switch spoon exactly under the plastic bumper spigot and tighten that down. Finally solder the lights and the routine bumper install is complete.
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The bumper platter is connected securely to the playfield with a large plated frame both physically with mounting screws and electrically via a wire harness fitted with a jones plug. The platter rotating motor and the interesting power whiskers holding brackets are mounted to the frame. The rotating motor is screwed to the mounting plate via a mounting bracket and all then is connected to the platter shaft with a split pinned coupler. There is a ball bearing and pressure washer fitted at shaft and couplet interface pint. The motor is actually 110V but I checked it with no load with my 50V bench transformer to see if it rotated and the correct direction.
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The power whiskers transfer the 6V and 50V power to the bumpers and switches constantly while the platter rotates. This practice was routine at the time on all bingo games to operate their rotating mixer and control units, so cool.

On the platter the receiving contact is an assembly consisting of a copper plate sandwiched between Bakelite insulating discs. The Bakelite insulators are larger than the copper contact plate so create a guided groove for the power whisker to snuggly sit within whilst pressing on the contact plate edge. Each plate has a receiving copper rod that a bumper wire is soldered too, so simple.
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The rotating unit can now be added to the playfield and screwed into place. As discussed earlier the playfield has both three equally spaced levelers and axial rollers to align the platter to the playfield.
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I wondered at the time if I had missed something as the center power sub part just sits on the shaft without any connection other than gravity. However, on review it needs to be loose as it sits under the game and gravity again holds it exactly where it needs to be after you align to the playfield.

Such a cool assembly.