As you can probably tell by my posts I like messing with the more unusual mechanical things as much as playing the games. So for others interested like me or plan to change the platter, I have added some descriptions that might be needed to strip down to clean, fix and change.
The Williams Nags game has two very interesting mechanical features. The rotating bumpers have been discussed here on Pinside recently. The other is the moving horse’s mechanism in the back box, both mechanisms are so cool. I will add a topic on the moving horse mechanism in another post and with that in mind I have a question that you might ponder, how does a cow help a horse win a race?
So back to putting things on my platter. The rotating bumpers are mounted on a rotating platter that I recently had to remake and this topic is fitting out of the rotating mechanism onto the platter and into a playfield. Here is the link to making a playfield platter: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-1960-nags-platter-replacement
I have made other replacement platters for the game and this will help others replace it back in their game if they decide to. Note the game has about a 1/16” diameter gap between the platter and the playfield hole and this means that some accuracy is needed in making the new platter. The first picture shows the platter after being dropped in the game with no adjustment. The game has some rotating roller guides to help it to turn concentrically. The roller guides are more than able to guide the platter with the tolerances built into the mechanisms so alignment issues will not be more than a tedious one hour trial and error experience.
It would be very difficult to make the platter without an original template, I am sure the original R&D work was not as not as simple as one might think, a lot of trial and error. There is a lot of holes to be made for the bumpers and the associated hardware. All needs to be accurately transferred to the new platter so it will all work. However, having the original platter template is the key.
During the recent topic about making the platter I had marked and drilled the locations for the bumper parts and made a Mylar drilling template for the remaining hardware screw locations. So now taking this template I placed it on the first platter and used some tacky spray to keep it in place. I used a suitable diameter drill bit slightly less of a diameter than the smallest # 6X ½” long original screw, nothing to exact needed. When happy with the alignment of the template I drilled 3/8” deep blind-holes into the platter with a dremel through the Mylar and all this took only a few minutes.
The first thing to reassemble is the collar plate onto the center hole followed by the center shaft and its metal dowelled locator plate.as shown.
The next stage is to add the wiring harness and center assembly over the shaft and into the correct position.
More to come later. This seems to be the max we can upload regarding number of pictures.