(Topic ID: 252099)

1959 Williams Woodrail backglass mounting


By dgAmpGuy

23 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 13 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 days ago by o-din
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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Pre Restoration Light Box View Left Side (resized).JPG
Pre Restoration Front Lightbox and Back glass (resized).JPG
Tic Tac Toe Backbox (resized).JPG

#1 23 days ago

I am working on a 1959 Williams Tic Tac Toe. This is my first Woodrail. I figured out how to get the back box panel to unlatch and pivot down so that I could work the bulbs and sockets. I found it odd that there doesn’t seem to be anything holding the backglass in the frame, so it starts to pivot with the panel. I ended up using painters tape to hold the glass from the front, but it seems like there should be a better way.

Any suggestions? Is something missing? Are you supposed to slide the glass out while you’re working there?

Thanks,
Dave

#2 23 days ago

I believe there is a slot in the bottom of the head that the glass sits in. Oh..if you ever have to remove the glass, you must remove the hinge.

#3 21 days ago

Normally would be a couple brackets at the top. Any sign of them having been removed? The glass only goes into the slot when being removed.

#4 20 days ago

I’ll look more closely for signs of the slot and brackets. It did look like the glass had been touched up at one point so perhaps they were left off. I was not successful at finding detailed pictures of what the inside of the backbox should look like.

Thanks!

1 week later
#5 8 days ago

Just to follow up, no sign of any removed brackets or a slot for the glass. I’ll post pictures of what I’ve got soon.

#6 8 days ago
Quoted from dgAmpGuy:

I am working on a 1959 Williams Tic Tac Toe.... Are you supposed to slide the glass out while you’re working there?
Thanks,
Dave

Dave,

I looked at my Pre-restore Pic's from my Williams 1960 Nags and it seems to be similar to the 59 Tic Tac Toe. There is a slot at the top of the box to remove the glass and a metal retaining bolt on the inside top to keep it from falling out, I believe.

DSC03287 (resized).JPGPre Restoration Front Lightbox and Back glass (resized).JPGPre Restoration Light Box View Left Side (resized).JPGTic Tac Toe Backbox (resized).JPG
#7 8 days ago

Here is a pic of my 1957 Arrow Head. My 1959 Rocket is the same.

The game should be sitting on the ground slightly leaning forward so the glass does not fall back when you lower the light panel. Light panel should be removed when taking out the glass and that light panel retainer moved out of the way.

DSCN6442 (resized).JPG
#8 7 days ago
Quoted from o-din:

Here is a pic of my 1957 Arrow Head. My 1959 Rocket is the same.
The game should be sitting on the ground slightly leaning forward so the glass does not fall back when you lower the light panel. Light panel should be removed when taking out the glass and that light panel retainer moved out of the way.[quoted image]

That’s exactly the support method that’s in my backbox - the spring arm. Whacked my finger one of the times I closed the light panel up again.

You also explained why my glass is falling back, I don’t have much slope on the game because I’ve been working on it and not really worried about the pitch. I’m glad that I asked because I’ve got to get that glass out at least once to seal it and at least touch up the white O’s.

That clears it up, thanks!

#9 7 days ago

It may not be perfect but much better than some other woodrails I've owned where you drop the glass through a slot in the top.

If the light board is bulging or out of position the slightest, bye bye artwork on the backglass.

#10 7 days ago
Quoted from o-din:

It may not be perfect but much better than some other woodrails I've owned where you drop the glass through a slot in the top. If the light board is bulging or out of position the slightest, bye bye artwork on the backglass.

Hi o-din,

So your earlier games did not have the slot at the top of the back box to slide the glass in? Your picture looks like it does but pictures can be deceiving. My early 50's Williams game have the slot.

Guess Williams were trying many things game to game, as it sounds like they knew there was an issue. Good to know
so I don't screw up in the future.

#11 7 days ago
Quoted from SteveinTexas:

So your earlier games did not have the slot at the top of the back box to slide the glass in? Your picture looks like it does but pictures can be deceiving. My early 50's Williams game have the slot.

Those are my early games now, but are still late 50s. No slot. Backglass comes out from the rear.

Earlier 50s Williams games did have the slot and the game I was referring to was a 1948 Gottlieb Buccaneer I owned that rubbed the paint when I pulled it out. I tried to find a way around it but it was just the way it was.

Later Williams from the early 60s added a couple of metal stops that would prevent the backglass from falling back when the light board was tilted. Still needed the the light board removed to get the glass out easily.

The Nags you posted was a different beast altogether. More similar to the early 50s models.

#12 7 days ago
Quoted from o-din:

.....The Nags you posted was a different beast altogether. More similar to the early 50s models.

Yup, this is what I learned from your post. Good to know, Thanks.

Not to beat this to death, I have a 58 Williams Short Stop. It also dropped the back glass from the top slot and has a side bar that you can see a recess in the side of the frame side, for a bar stop (Missing) to hold the glass. So it seems between 57 and 60 they were trying to work out the best way to do this and the tic tac toe idea was not maybe the best for the reason you describe.

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#13 7 days ago

You have to remember games like Nags and the pitch and bats had complicated mechanical backglass animation, so what worked on standard pinball machines wasn't the best in cases like those.

I also noticed my 4 Bagger seems to have heavier duty components on what are basically the same stepper units.

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