I believe they're the sockets that take the #63 bulbs..
Those sockets are quite known to be worn from age.
I use to replace them, but for a few years now, I've been
epoxying in Christmas light sockets (4 of them, which is 110V
bulbs), and wiring them in the ball lift motor's circuitry. I have a
few ball bowlers on locations, and wiring this way, the pin lights
come on at start up, and off at the completion of a game.
Also, the lights are bright, but not overly bright. I've done this to
both United and Bally and I'm way more pleased..
If you'd like maybe to take this route, and like some more info,
not a problem. We can stay here, or you can shoot me a PM.
Used sockets work perfectly fine, but the last few, I went with
new. Here's where I picked them up.. (T)

https://www.christmasdesigners.com/c7-extra-socket-green-spt-1.html?matchtype=&network=g&device=c&adposition=1o1&keyword=&campaign={campaign}&gclid=Cj0KCQjwxvbdBRC0ARIsAKmec9Yp6CwVfLwOkySI1JnNXvcNNwU_q9G6qdGFPU8YyCS-hcuN6YIdgekaAhyDEALw_wcB

Actually, the cost isn't the main factor as much as the improvement.
It is just more solid and better lighting..
Years back, I got in a Bally ABC Tournament Bowler and someone at some
point replaced the pin lights with miniture flouresent bulbs which is fine, but
they wired it direct without it being fused. I said hang on here, and wired it
to the ball lift circuitry which then had the pin lights lit only when the game
was in play. Bally's scoring is so responsive that it's not far from impossible
to roll a ball too quickly. United's is not as responsive, but still not an issue.

I should add that I have let others know not to roll the next ball until
the score has stopped registering..

The V section rubber is there because it has a specific function and I would never underestimate that purpose. Also for me looking amazing in a gameroom is maintaining originality but in a realistic and sensible manner and respecting the original engineering of the machine.

At first I was thinking you were referring to the V ball return rubber which is best to have,
but the red V rubber in the ball lift box is much important. It wouldn't surprise me if Chris at
St. Louis Ball Bowlers may have replacements. Also, I imagine a rolled up rubber as in the
United small ball bowlers would work okay, but whichever, having 1/4 or 1/2" flat rubber in
front of either to take the initial hit makes for good protection..
Note: In case you have a Tractor Supply store in your area, their 1/4 and 1/2" rubber is
good for many applications, but for ball bowlers, it leaves black on the balls which noticeably
transfers to the lane..

I recently purchased various rubbers from Chris at St Louis ball bowlers. He has always had what I wanted for my ball bowler in knowledge or parts.

On my Tropics resto I used Minwax golden oak on the timber and the closest filler I could find for the bumps. I found the golden oak made the finish slightly darker so you may find the same. But looking at your pics your timber should come up quite nice.

Interestingly I reversed the V rubber as Clay suggests but what I found on re-install was that from the constant hitting the ball had become slightly 'warped' towards the back. So when I reversed it it then had a natural warp to the front and was not letting the balls through on the left or high side of the ball trough channel. I needed to reverse to original albeit with a repair to a split section of the V rubber.

I thing maybe originally those rubbers were somewhat hard, but not rock hard..
I had cut small square pieces of rubber for replacement, but if you'd like a more
original look, a hole saw would probably do the trick..

There's Tractor Supply stores around where I am that has 1/4" and 1/2" rubber.
I've used it for a few different applications, but I no longer use it in the ball lift
box where the ball comes in contact with it. It leaves black on the balls. I found
another rubber for that..

For years, I used rubber that a Friend gave me who work where they
made the rubber, but no longer works there and I'm falling short on rubber.
A few months back I restored a small ball Bally, and used the T.S.
rubber, but in front of that I put a piece of "Welcome" mat which I picked
up cheap at WalMart. It's only 1/8" thick, but doesn't leave black on the
balls, which of course would transfer to the lane..
I cut the mat rubber slightly larger to insure the ball doesn't touch the
T.S. rubber. I did the same with the back ball lift door. Contact Cemented
1/4" T.S. rubber to the backdoor, then Contact Cemented Welcome mat
over that. It works okay..

I noticed the Ironmind poster hanging to the right of your bowler. Don’t see to many of those on a pinball forum. I used to compete in grip competitions so I owned a lot of Ironmind equipment. Have also done strongman and armwrestling in the past. Did you compete in strength sports or just a fan of Ironmind equipment?

Originally, they are flat head screws, no rods. Most of the time they are rusted in pretty good to the T-Nuts that is on the underside of the head.

I found on a recent resto that these bolts can become slightly bent (that trough takes quite a battering) and therefore more difficult to remove. Removal patience won the day and I replaced the bolts.

Okay, so the Frame Reel's run out switch seems to be adjusted properly so that it
only opens when the Frame Reel is on "0".
Without looking at schematics, I'm guessing but pretty certain that it resets as the score
reels do through a Score reset Relay. The score reels Reset Relays would have a set of contacts
for each score reel, so the Frame Reel would only need one set of contacts. It may have it's
own relay, or the set of switches may possibly be tied into one of the Score Reels Reset Relays.
Also, it may possibly travel straight through the score motor's wiper board, but I'm thinking
that's not the case..
If this info isn't much help, perhaps you could post a photo of the section of the schematics
of the Frame Reel's circuitry..

I forgot this was a Team Bowler until I took a look at the schematics.
Anyways, yes, it's what I first thought. The Frame Reel resets through the
(score) Reset Relay which the Reset Relays does energize through the Score
Motor's wiper board..
There's 3 Reset Relays, A, B, and C. The Frame Reel resets through a pair
of switches in Reset Relay B.
I have to think that Reset Relay B (along with A and B) has multiple sets of
switches to reset all of the score reels, and one of those sets in B is for the
Frame Reel..
I'm pretty sure that anytime when the machine is turned on and any of the score
reels are not on "0", you can manually energize (tap) the Reset relays and
the score reels will energize. If that is the case, when the Frame Reel is not
on "0", you can stick a small screw driver in between the sets of contacts in
Reset Relay B to have them make connection, and then see if any of the
sets energize the Frame Reel. If none do, I would clean and adjust the contacts
in B and see if that does the trick at start up. I'm pretty sure that it will, but if not,
we'll have to explore a little further..

Yup, most likely dirty contacts/need adjusting in the B Relay..
Before adjusting, snugging up the switch stack screws is always
a good idea..

Nice! Now you have a bowler that plays as well as it looks!
One other thing. Not a must by any means, but what I think adds much to
the 10 pins are red vinyl numbers. I've done many bowlers and always add
the numbers. 10" pins came originally with 2" numbers, and the bottom of
the numbers are 2" from the bottom of the pins. They can be cleared over,
but I never had a problem with them coming off..
These were Chicago Coin pins which fit on Bally bowlers, so I had to sand of the
C.C. emblem, repaint, then apply the numbers..

IMG_1380 (resized).JPG

For me it would be hard to disagree with a 12 year old.
From what I can see, I'd clean it up, maybe apply Old English
to the hard wood, and enjoy its game play..

Sorry to hijack a bit, but I'm looking to possibly making my own mini bowler. Would anyone know where I could find some ball bowler gutter sections? Seems pretty difficult to make the "U" shape out of wood yourself, so would think there would be somebody that replaces them/sells gutter sections new.

Those are the plastic yellow reels, right? I always just used Windex and paper towels. Have to be really careful if
the numbers are loose, but was always able to fix them up with a fine sharpie.

I actually have made gutters before. For the U ingroove, on a table saw, I clamped a guide going the opposite way and started with
the blade very shallow, and raised it slightly with each pass. I remember the key being to have the proper diameter blade so when it
reaches its proper depth, it also has the proper width..
Way back I did two 8' gutter sections with only a skill saw and sandpaper around a 2.5" metal nipple. Doing it that way took quite
some time, but I was determined..

I actually do, but not that I can spare. I think I need 3 of them. If I find having a 4th one, I'll let you know.
Those type of doors with the lower slide were on United late 50s/early 60s ball and shuffle bowlers, so hang
in there. There's some out there. I'll keep an eye out also..

What you'll want to check is under the pin hood, the #8 pin coil. Check if
its solder tabs is slightly turned, and one is touching its frame.
If so, you just need to loosen the back coil screw, and adjust the coil's
position so both solder tabs are directly upright..

No pics? Pfft!

So pin deck unplugged, game works?

Take out your dmm and start checking for a broken wire?

Visually inspect for a loose connection or cloth shearing shrunken back?

Is fuse holder good?

Just a few thoughts until someone who knows what they're talking about chimes in.

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And there you go! Mopar beat me to the "post" button.