until I get a chance to tidy it up and send to ipdb, a wip schem from valerie and richard conger via the pacific pinball museum is available at https://bingo.cdyn.com/ppm/short-stop/

I updated the schem in the url above and sent it to ipdb.org. The file will disappear from the bingo site eventually after it goes live on ipdb.

about your issue ... it's not obvious from the schem how the bat solenoid is powered. There's a bat relay switch, a bat switch and a bat EOS (end of stroke) switch. Typically an EOS switch is on the solenoid unit and detects when the plunger pulls in, but maybe in this case it's on the bat lever mechanism? Got a picture of the bat lever showing wires/switches on it?

in any case, the pitching issue is more straightforward. For the pitch motor to turn on, the pitcher relay needs to power. There's a few switches in the circuit. Got a voltmeter?

the circuit is below.

assuming the pitcher relay coil is ok, a quick check is manually close the pitcher relay. It should hold itself closed until the pitcher unit has spun around enough to open the "1" switch in the orange highlighted circuit.

If that works, then the orange circuit is ok and your problem is an open switch along the yellow highlight path.

If it doesn't work, then one of the two switches below the yellow highlight joint is open or the switch at F17 (not shown) is open when it shouldn't be ... or the pitcher relay coil is bad (you can touch a jumper from yellow wire 30 to the red/white wire on the pitcher relay coil to see if the coil fires).

note any cam symbol with a C in it is a switch on the pitcher unit. B is the running man unit and A is the control/relay cam unit. I think dave oopsed that and you don't need to look at the running man unit (yet).

if you have a voltmeter, you can attached one probe to the black wire on any handy 50V coil. Other probe you can poke anywhere along the orange/yellow highlighted path below the slow pitch switch and you should measure 50VAC.

ideally you jumper or hold closed the slow pitch switch and probe looking for someplace the voltage drops way below 50V. Using this approach will find a a cruddy switch in addition to an open one.
pitch (resized).png

oh, and note the schem is for game 203. ipdb says deluxe is game 205, but their description says deluxe has match and replays ... which the 203 schem has. Does your schem say 205 on it?

if you're bored while plodding through the pitching stuff, do you have a manual for the game or a piece of paper detailing the bat relay?

assuming the relay mounted at the charcoaled wood is the bat relay, it looks like the 3rd switch (top/furthest from frame) is upside down. It should be a normally open switch, and that would explain why your bat is working when you haven't pitched yet. Was that switch stack or entire relay replaced to your knowledge?

if you're really bored and figure out where the "strike switch" is, please post a pic of that. It may be a switch on the pitcher unit, but the blades should have yellow wire 30 and green/brown wire 46-1 on the blades and I don't see that combo in your posted pics.

just to make sure, the switch I mean is the bottom one in the picture ... it's the top switch in the stack, but the relay is appears upside down when the playfield is tilted up against the head.

that switch is currently closed when the relay is unpowered, right? If you stick paper between the contacts, the bat should no longer work.

that's not good ... either the deluxe game isn't wired like the schematic I have, or there's a wiring problem.

on the schematic you have, does it say 205 short stop or 203 short stop?

the test was just turn on the game, reset it, and close the bat switch on the rail. No pitch buttons, right?

assuming the game is wired like the 203 schematic, the 120V bat coil should not be able to power until the bat relay powers, and closing the bat switch shouldn't do that.

I think the bat relay powers when the "strike switch" closes, but I don't know where that switch is. I assume closes after the pitcher relay powers.

sanity check, the wire colors on bat relay switch 3 are yellow/red and green/red. You'll have to dig back into the harness a little to see the unfaded wire colors. Red is a particularly troublesome color ... sometimes it's fine, other times it's greyish/white.

switch 1 on the bat relay is the hold switch, but it won't hold if the pitcher motor is not running AND the pitcher relay is powered.

if you reset the game and manually close the bat relay, it should hold itself closed. If it doesn't, either switch 1 on the bat relay isn't closing or switch 3 on the pitcher relay isn't closed when the pitcher relay isn't energized (yellow and black/brown wires).

in case you aren't familiar with switch adjust, see http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index2.htm#clean

can ya post a pic of the connector plugs ... especially the one connecting the rail to the game. One explanation for the bat and pitch button behavior is that plug is in wrong somehow ... the wire colors should match between the plug and socket when the plug is installed.

you want the switch the red arrow is pointing at to close when the cam follower is around 1/2-2/3 out of the notch. That is the index carryover switch at schem F26 ... keeps the motor turned on until the follower falls in a notch. The gap looks pretty big currently, so bend the short blade down closer to the long one.
ss_pitch (resized).jpg

to get the motor running long enough for the carryover switch to take over, you need switch 1 on the pitcher relay or switch 2 on the fast pitch relay to be closed AND another cam switch with red arrow below closed.

if the pitcher motor just burps for fast and slow pitches, then it's more likely the switch below is just cruddy or not adjusted well. With power off, turn the pitch cams so the follower falls in a notch and make sure the long blade stays against the follower. Bend at the orange arrow if necessary - this is one of the exceptions to "never bend the long blade" comment that gets tossed around. You may also need to bend the leftmost blade that has no wire attached ... it's just there for the nylon lifter on the long blade to ride on.

once you have the long blade mashed against the follower in the notch, adjust the right blade for a reasonable switch gap and make sure when turning the cam until the follower is out of the notch you get good switch overtravel.

the switch itself looks oily, which is not good. Clean with alcohol or whatever to get the grease off the contacts.

as a test for the switch working, you can jumper the long and right blades closed (wires 89 and 53) and manually close the pitcher relay. The pitch motor should run forever and the pitcher relay would stay powered.

ss2 (resized).jpg

that's optimistic ...

it's possible switch 3 on the bat relay is correct and the schematic symbol is wrong, so don't turn over the switch yet. On the other hand, if you stuck paper between the switch 3 contacts, the bat should not be able to swing, so I'd guess someone has modified the circuit. Suggest you leave that stuff alone and get the pitching working for now, then deal with the bat if it's not working sensibly.

tmi
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if the schematic is wrong for bat relay switch 3 and it's supposed to be N.C., it appears you can swing the bat before pitching ... once. If you push the bat lever first:

1] the bat swings and closes the EOS switch
2] the bat relay powers and opens bat relay switch 3.
- the bat relay should stay powered thru a pitcher relay switch 3.
- the bat coil unpowers.
3] since the bat relay is powered, the bat lever switch is now dead and will stay dead until the pitcher relay powers and releases the bat relay.
4] since no ball went over the trough switch, you don't get a strike for the pre-pitch bat swing.

if for some reason someone starts a game, closes the bat switch and walks away without pitching, the bat relay will stay powered forever. A Z-31-2300 should be able to handle that, but if someone put in the wrong coil or just age-related partial shorting of the coil happened, that would explain the charcoaled wood.

if it turns out the above is right and the schematic is wrong, I'll update the schem with a note and resend it to ipdb.

if the schematic is right, then somewhere in the game is a "strike sw." with yellow and green/brown wires on the blades. That switch would need to close to power the bat relay and enable the bat. You could swing the bat as many times as you wanted until the bat relay unpowered. Switch 3 on the bat relay would be upside down and needs to be N.O.

if the switch in the ball trough has black/grey and white/blue wires on it, that's the "trough past ball sw". It causes the strike unit to step up when the bat relay is powered and a ball rolls over the switch to close it ... I assume when the ball gets past the bat and drains in a bottom hole.

if this is one of those ambiguities about when "normally" is and the usual state of the bat relay is being powered, then it works like you describe.

question is tho, how does the bat relay get powered initially? Looks like only the strike switch can do it, and I dunno what/where that thing is.

while the bat may look to the player to work the same on the williams games, the circuit for all the schems I've seen is slightly different on all of them. The only ones that aren't clear are short-stop and the game before it

wrt czar's latest problem, if the pitch motor doesn't stop, it should be one of the switches around the cam edge isn't changing state when the stack changes state (falls into a cam notch or gets lifted by a cam lobe). Make sure the stack is following the cam edge and not floating above the cam, then check the switches are doing something that makes sense.

steve emailed me pics of his revised schematic. I merged the changes and submitted to ipdb. Until it shows up, you can grab the updated schem from https://bingo.cdyn.com/ppm/short-stop/