Action pinball has what seems to match the original coil with integrated brass sleeve:
http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=7-24F-965#

This shows a coil sleeve, yes?
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/7-24F-965

PBR would provide a suitable substitute and states "All of our coils come with sleeves, where applicable or unless noted"
http://www.pbresource.com/coilunt.html

Good luck. My first EM was also a 50's united shuffle alley.

If you are going to need other EM parts or own EMs in the future, I'd establish a relationship with Steve Young at PBR now. Give him a call with your part number. And be prepared to write a check or have your bank issue an e-check of some sort.

Burgertime

Your problem is why I love these old games so much, it's 68 years old and can still proudly operate even with its parts wearing right down to the very end of life. In today's world of don't bother fixing it just replace it. They are a breath of fresh air.

And please learn from my mistakes, If that coil is ready to go take a good look and inspect for any others in the same state that aren't quite as noticeable, before you order. Having to make multiple shipping orders for one game just because I didn't take the extra time the first time around has cost me time and money more than once.

After you replace your new coil, you want to watch that it doesn't remain energized and heat up.
Even the early 50s United Bank Reset Coil I'm pretty sure is 110V
A switch off of the Score Motor's cam energizes that coil. It should make, and then break just before
the end of the score motor's cycle..

Wht Mopar said.
don't let a coil stay on too long. or it will burn. in most cases.
Also, when you find rthe switch, look it over close. burned coil =burned contacts.
maybe not too bad, but look at it anyway.
you got you a doosey to start off with.
chk out pinrepair.com
lotsa good info there.
be prepaired to dig into that bowler...i am just saying.

There's a run-out switch that also runs off of the score motor's cam that shouldn't
open until after the Bank Reset switch had closed and reopened. I see the labels are
still attached to the score motor's bracket. I believe that run-out switch is in the
1st position. Perhaps for some reason, it slightly breaks before it gets to the notch out
on the cam. When the score motor stops and the Bank Reset Coil is remaining energize,
turn the cam slowly and within a few degrees, a stack of switches will drop and the run-out
switch is in that stack. I'm pretty sure it's the top switch in that stack.
That switch may need a little more tension on its mating contact. If that stack drops at the
same time the Bank Reset Coil switch makes, someone had to of put on a set of longer switches
that resets the Bank reset Coil, but from your pic, it looks to be factory.. (T)

Yes, being a 1951, the machine only scores Strikes and Spares. 30 for a Strike, 20 for
a Spare, and the number of pins made for an open. I'm pretty sure I'm right about this,
unless I misunderstood what you were saying..
Another little something I like to do is clean the top of the reset bar where it comes in contact
with the coil's metal plates, and also I clean the bottom of the metal plates where they come
in contact with the bar. I clean with carb choke cleaner on a paper towel both the bar and under
the plates, then wipe dry and put a thin film of Remmington Gun Oil on the bar. Remmington Gun
oil likes to stick around and doesn't gum up..
Now when the bar strikes the plates, there'll be no grabbing since the bar not only lifts, but
slides just a bit on the plates also..
BTW, that bowler has 6" pins right? Those size pins were used on bowlers for only 2 or 3 years.. (T)

Hey Burgertime.
good progress. but I can see in the pics, the grease, gummed up parts, and black switch contacts.
You got some more work to do...if you want it to work correctly.
Start with that score motor. clean all the switches, and use a dremel tool, with a brass brush to clean the contacts.
The solder tabs on the switches look bent, and maybe shorting? not sure, but go through EVERYTHING, and it will work.
Don't cut corners here, they WILL come back to haunt you.
It took me 3 times goin through my 51/56 frankinbowler to get it all workin right.
But my situation was a bit more complicated than yours, I melded a 51 classic table, to a 56 deluxe head.
good luck

I have a very similar 1953 United "Chief" bowler with very similar problems when I got it.
The trick is to clean and lube every moving part. The reset bracket that held the coil was broken, so I repaired that which helped with resets. You will need a burnishing file go go thru all of the contacts on the steppers and the puck contact switches. Steppers are critical that they snap to the neutral position when the reset coil is pulsed. I used special grease on the stepper contacts - made for stepper contact. The more you reduce friction, the better it will play. And all the moving arms, use synthetic grease and synthetic oil ONLY. Lithium will eventually harden like the old petroleum based grease. Synthetic will stay soft forever.

After going thru everything twice, some three times, the machine works flawlessly now.

Fixed.

Maybe taking another look at the 2nd Shot Relay's contacts you might spot a dirty one
or one that's not making very well. Also you'll want to check the contacts on the Score Motor's
cam when it's in the 2nd position..
I feel going through a machine right from the get go is the way to go. I go through them all
before I plug it in, but I understand that yours was working before hand..
Cleaning and lubing the wiper boards are pretty much a must especially the score motor's
wiper board which operates practically non-stop..
I might have a schematic pretty close to what you have that I can check out. Pretty busy
weekend for me but maybe tomorrow I can check..
We do know the score motor doesn't make it's full revolution unless the 1-10 Relay is energized
and I'm thinking it's in the 2nd Shot Relay or a contact that should be closed after the first shot
on the Score Motor's cam. Also maybe could be a contact that should be made in the 1st Shot Relay
when that relay is in the energized position..

Here's a link to a high resolution of the schematic on my Chief. I'd bet is virtually identical to your machine:

http://www.ramegoom.com/john/United_Chief_Shuffle_Alley/schematic01.jpg

Nice clear image on those schematics!
I reread wondering if the 2nd Shot Relay energized, but even when manually tripping
the score motor doesn't turn. When both the 1st and 2nd Shot Relays are in their energized
position, it should complete a circuit to the score motor. I'd make sure the switch stack screws
are snugly tightened, and clean and make sure the switches are properly adjusted.
When a strike or spare is made, the 1-10 Relay energizes which completes another circuit
to the Score Motor which is working okay. So sounds like it's in the 1st or/and 2nd Shot Relay..

you also have a 10 th frame step unit on the bottom board.
it has to agree with everything else, or no dice.
Keep poundin away at it, you will get it!

Actually it wouldn't be a bad idea to check all the stacks and snug the screws..
And yes, cleaning and lubing the score motor's wiper board is a big plus.
I make it a point to do it to all the wiper boards. I spray carb choke cleaner on
a small piece of Scotch Brite to clean the wiper boards, then apply a thin film of
light grease after wiping off cleanly..
My guess would also be the 1st and 2nd Shot Relays are in need of better cleaning
once the proper tools arrive. Manually, your hand is moving slower than the slide
of the puck which gives the (dirty) contacts in the 1st and 2nd Shot Relays more
time to catch the current. It's good to hear progress is being made.. (T)

I always use this stuff on all of my machines' stepper contacts. It's special grease that doesn't turn into carbon when the contacts arc, and makes your stepper contacts last longer. Much better choice over petroleum-based grease:

pbr-grease (resized).jpg

That's really good to hear. You spent quite some time on it..
Maybe you can send a pic of the machine. I forgot the name,
but years back, I remember going through a 1951 United for
someone, and the machine was near Mint. Its basic color was
yellow, with (maybe multiple) colored pins on the sides.. (T)

Mopar - Looked like the one on the left, maybe?
img02 (resized).jpg

Yeah, somewhat, but it definitely was a 1951 with the 6" pins..
Are those your machines? That Bally's scoring is pretty responsive, huh..
I'm going to check out that grease that you advised..

This one is a 1953. The pins are shorter than the standard pins, 8-1/2 in. long, and have a special mounting - read that "impossible to find".
pin (resized).jpg

I actually have those 8" pins, and even rarer some 6" pins, and even rarer, a few 4" pins.
I have one machine with the 6" pins. (Maybe) called "Roll-a-Ball" by Chicago Coin. It's a 1951
Ball Bowler that rebounds the ball like a puck, and catches it's return in a sack that's on the front
of the game. The 4" pins are on the first shuffle made (1949 United), that I'm pretty sure came
in two models. Lit pins, and 4" fly away pins that reset. That's the only game I know of that used
the 4" pins..

Oh, I didn't know it was a lit scoring bowler.
Years back I had a couple 5 Player Shuffles,
and then later, a 6 Player like yours..
It's good to know all is working fine.

Nice Shuffles! I really like those United shuffles, they hold up well.
Finished a meld of a 51 Classic lane, to a 56 Deluxe head not long ago, what fun that was!

Having trouble with my 1967 united corral shuffle bowling machine I think the switches are not adjusted right on the pin reset motor plays one shot then the play field is dead pins won't reset

United Pinnacle bowler singlezero pictures

20190819_175828 (resized).jpg

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DSCF5045 (resized).JPG

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DSCF5047 (resized).JPG

DSCF5051 (resized).JPG

DSCF5062 (resized).JPG

Getting a 1951 United "6 Player" Deluxe Shuffle Alley going myself. Was working great, after another great pinsider here sent me a bushing for my reset motor.

Replaced the rebound rubber, added new cork side trim, even made a new pin shroud per "Mopar" instructions (looked great BTW Mopar)

Then the coil plunger to the main relay bank broke completely in half..but got a replacement and it's working once again.

Problem - it seems to be stuck in a reset mode. Or even scoring duplicate mode. Sometimes when I start a game, it just sets in reset mode, some pins raising, then all, then different ones raising - never really starting a game.

I can manually push in the "start relay" which gets the game in a playing mode - then if I hit a spare or strike - it repeats the scoring for several frames (sometimes to the end of game, then in repetitive reset mode as described above)

I thought it may be the new coil plunger, not plunging enough or vice versa. but this started happening right before that plunger broke (probably constant resetting made it break?)

Anything to check on for this resetting issue?

Some photos of this one

2EB04585-D5C1-4607-A7BA-6CCF4AC94851 (resized).jpeg

57010A80-2F82-4B98-97A0-DA772214B869 (resized).jpeg

58071EBC-DEE4-4FFD-9876-19E0B4183984 (resized).jpeg

5946AFBC-03CB-41E9-BD1C-BFA079BB8FBB (resized).jpeg

78986C6D-7798-4DE4-8E4B-0E472A08E57E (resized).jpeg

93A1EAA7-C12B-4927-AA5A-74D07CCBD2E7 (resized).jpeg

ABECDA43-C524-4133-87F3-D032BF61949F (resized).jpeg

E4457769-A314-46F4-8AEB-D3174D1FD8AC (resized).jpeg

FA1FAD8C-B619-4C0A-8AE0-329AD381484B (resized).jpeg

FE00FCC1-D191-4BD6-B176-7911313AFD7F (resized).jpeg

Actually, it does sound like the Reset Bank coil isn't energizing, or not pulling in
enough to reset the Relays. Check if the Bank Relays are resetting. If not, it'll stay
in the Reset mode until the switch is turned off..
Check the contacts at the Score Motor that energizes the Bank Reset Coil (110V).
Good chance it's the only set in that stack, and it makes just before the run-out
switch opens (toward the very end of the Score Motor's cycle)..

Thanks Mopar. It’s def cycling and seems to be resetting all relays. Except the Start relay. I have to manually move it. Then it still keeps resetting after that.

With the game off, playfield lifted up, I can manually stroke the relay bank and all but the start relay hold. Maybe a good cleaning around the relay plate?

If it's consistent, I wouldn't think the Relay Plate is magnetized.
Might the Start Relay Plate's spring be broken, or the tab that
holds one end of the spring to keep it latched? The Start Relay
may be staying energized, but I suspect it's at the Start Relay
itself..

After looking at it more closely, I don't think the coil plunger I received is fully pulling the arm down, hence not full resetting relays. May have to look at replacing the arm assembly to match the new plunger tho.

The plunger on the right is the older broken model.

It has a small separate piece with a small button end for the coil stop (but totally separate piece)

It also had a larger dia hole at the top with a small pivot piece/sleeve.

The new one is in one piece and small hole at the top. Overall length compared with the original plunger it looks to be about 1/4” longer. Probably just enough to not fully retract?

D5F361E0-1800-47A0-BA1D-609AD9E8FB41 (resized).jpeg

EAB30A1D-1A96-4BC7-B1DE-D4A22FF3C846 (resized).jpeg

When I align them they don’t seem too far off in length tho. Could that difference be the problem of not resetting?

C39343D1-C369-48B6-BA43-5357A408D04B (resized).jpeg

To me it looks as if it could make a difference and not allow it to have enough travel..
With the new plunger back in, if you manually push in the plunger, does the plunger
seem to bottom out before fully resetting the relays?

Have to push really hard to get a full reset

What's the exact length of the original and new plunger?

See if this helps.

45E2A5E9-59D4-4C19-B50B-69F54417C4D8 (resized).jpeg

CD5157AF-D2FF-4083-B213-2DAB21F5FDDB (resized).jpeg

Not only longer, but all but the small bottom portion of that new plunger looks skinnier..
From the pic, the original plunger appears to be 3" or a little over. I was thinking it was
close to 2 3/4" which I may have. Can you double check and take a precise measurement
of the original plunger's length?

Sorry mopar. Grandkids in for a visit! Lol

9/16” dia.
As it’s broken I’m guesstimating 2 1/2” lg

Not including that small piece that is separate with the nib on the end It’s 9/16” lg as well

Got you covered. I sent a pm..

WOW! WOW! WOW! That part worked "Mopar"! This and the part from "Drain1" - this 1951 machine is working fully once again! Amazing help gentlemen! Thank you!