This game is WAY OLDER than many people are used to dealing with based on experience commonly on this forum.
As a result restoration conditions are different.
Let me carefully assist, as you have a nice game, that I would like to stay this way.
Read everything in this post.
There was significant errors in recommendations and advice.
Denatured alcohol, start with cotton balls in a test area far away from the center of the playfield. Light circles. I have no idea the condition of the paint, and I doubt the remaining lacquer is in superb condition. Move up to a terry cloth with light rubbing, if no paint issues.
If you want to start "lighter" in terms of testing start with isopropyl alcohol, but it is much less effective with dirt and grime.
Restorers DO NOT START with Millwax for cleaning of a playfield, but AFTER a playfield is cleaned. This is not a new game, and I do not know how long ago it was cleaned anyway. Operators used Millwax as the standard, but that was for different reasons and different period in history.
Understand that naphtha is the primary component mineral spirit of paint thinner, and with old playfields can remove paint, this NOT a clear coated playfield. Denatured alcohol is a better alternative, but can remove lacquer as well, meaning you must protect the playfield surface after cleaning.
This is IMPORTANT. Stay the complete absolute !#$@ away from Mr. Eraser in this case. Too old and delicate. Especially if you have not used the product.
Novus 2 may be too abrasive and should be used with extreme caution.
Novus 1 is much safer in this case for light after "spritz" cleaning.
After you are completely satisfied with your cleaning efforts and there are no residues, you can lightly wax the game with carnauba versus Millwax (DO NOT use both), but you cannot let the wax dry fully to a "white" consistency because excessive rubbing required may result in lost paint or wax into playfield planking cracks. You must do what is called a "wet wax" and remove the wax after no more than 15 minutes while it is still drying with a terry cloth or chamois. Usually, I wipe off in less than 10 minutes if air conditions are causing to form quicker, watch the wax, just do not walk away and forget about it.
This last part is an advantage of Millwax because there is minimal visible residue.
Best of Fortune.