Anyone with a deposit or payment in on a Premium have any word from their distro? Mine's CT.
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Quoted from Thunderbird:The fix is simple and probably why the OP works fine and yours doesn’t (because they already did this). Here is the fix:
I just took mine off, because the shaker motor literally shook the right flipper solder joint apart. I’ve now solved the issue and can again enjoy the shaker motor without fear of my motor ruining my game elsewhere.
Removed it from the table: remove two top case screws. Then remove four bolts holding unit to table cabinet base.
Also tried using an Allen wrench, only to strip it. Attempted torque wrench and broke head. Wishing I hadn’t started this project, lol. Used Vise Grip Pliers to finally loosen 1/32nd screw nub. Destroyed screw nib getting it off. Purchased new screw and put it in the 90 degree angle hole to retighten. 90 degrees position offset it to the other side weight. Putting only a drop of lock tight on the screw before inserting.
Real issue with original screw is that it had tons of lock tight, so it was not coming off without brute force. Had to finally clamp screw nib into bench vice and then used a screw driver inserted through weight hole to turn entire weight till it came off all the way. Probably should have put heat on it.
Now at 90 degree offset position to opposite side weight, it works perfectly as a shaker motor and doesn’t shake the table glass any longer, but keeps the fun effect of the shaker motor. I left the other side untouched. You could move it 90 degrees also, but then they’d be 180 degrees opposite of each other and diminish shaker effect too much.
I’ve included photos below to see exactly how I positioned weights and where screws were placed. Have fun adjusting! It would have been a simple process without the heavy dose of lock tight. It is worth the effort as now shaker motor adds to the experience instead of being too violent.
Thanks for posting this. I just did the change and, mercifully, using a T-Handle it just popped lose. Looking forward to installing when the Premium finally arrives.
spike2shake (resized).jpgQuoted from drewski28:Seeing what seems to be an issue with both old code and new code. When no one is playing, SPOT goes up and then down, causing a relatively loud mechanical noise. Seems to happen about every 15-20 minutes. Is this normal?
I thought from previous threads that this was part of the attract mode and it could be turned off. I might be wrong because I don't have my machine yet but I thought that's what I read.
Quoted from PinMonk:A> That's nice, but they've been sold out for a while (try checking out) and their shipping is generally atrocious.
B> They're so lazy they have a picture of a SAM shaker kit - it's not even a spike kit.
I ordered the spike shaker last week with some art blades and it was here in 3 days. Could be sold out now though I guess.
Quoted from He-Man40:Munster Premium button guard side rails
https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-side-armor-with-holes.html
[quoted image]
Interesting. On Friday I had an email discussion with Stern about the pre-release pics of the premium showing the webbed armor as an accessory and was querying availability. They stated that the webs were going to remain limited to the LE and that the armor for the Premium would be available in two weeks. Guess he meant 3 days
Unless these aren't OEM but I can't imagine they aren't.
I made a joke to someone IRL at release by saying "what if...the black and white IS the limited edition???" Turns out I may have been right
Srsly though, I wanted the black and white from day one. Especially after seeing that b&w TZ.
I don't know that a color premium of Munsters is any more significant than the difference between the P vs. LE of Deadpool, Iron Maiden, BKSoR, etc. Just my opinion though.
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