Added a Munsters Premium to my lineup tonight.

Side drains are about to get modded. They are embarrassing. Looks like a simple, but fun game. We shall see...
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Personally, my hook was the monochrome machine, which I believe is so unusual and unique. Out of the ordinary in today's pinball market world.

Totally happy with my black and white Premium machine.

Decided to do something about that shameless right drain. I installed a 2nd. post and rubber ring from Marco, just north of the factory post to "close the gap" and experimented with the size of the ring. The ball still slips thru, but it has to be a direct hit to do it.

NOW, it drains much less. Problem fixed permanently. Takes some of the frustration out of the game play.

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Don't be afraid to mod the playfield. One hole, that's all. Mine works like a charm and it makes the slap-in-the-face right drain seem like a distant nightmare. I have lost the ball only twice in the right drain in the last 20 or so games.

I understand why the drain opening is so large from the factory. It shortens the playtime on games that are mostly on routes. But ours are home use, so it actually makes sense to minimize the aggravation if you can.

I did a left and right drain mod on my Ghostbusters as well. It was a little more elaborate because it involved an additional rail, but worked the same way.
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I'm in for anything that can improve the enjoyment of your game. If you saddle your play with the factory stuff, you'll lose interest quickly. How many of you stick to full factory presets anyway?

The factory wants short play time. All about profits to the route owner.

If you can lengthen the ball play time, go for it. Even if it means adding thicker rubber, extra posts, de-sensitizing (or removing completely) the tilt, etc. Your machine, do whatever floats your boat.

Fell into a trap in the lower playfield. I had to remove the clear cover to free the ball. Propped itself between the plastic and the support ring on the wireform.

Nasty.

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Have had no luck finding that "fix" post. If anyone knows a part number for the stuck ball lower playfield fix, please post it here. I will contact my distributor. Every time it sticks, I gotta remove the glass on the lower playfield to retrieve it.

****Edited until the site has proven itself. ****

Light a 5 volt LED with 12 volts, it burns out immediately.

Put 5 volts in a 12 volt LED, doesn't light, or barely glows.

Do either in reverse hookup, neither will light.

Always check voltages when swapping LEDs. How well it works comes down to series resistance added to the LED.

Same here. It has been suggested that I should remove the glides and put casters on the legs because of the distance I end up moving them around when "nudging".

We make wiring harnesses for the municipal upfitters who install LEDs in police cars. Ha! North of Denver as well. Our products make it to the CDOT vehicles and every surrounding state. You probably saw some of the wiring products in your journeys.

Yep. We supply all of their wiring.

And that V8Torino...Your summer ride? I had a 70 Merc. Cyclone 429, back in the day. The Mercury version of the Torino. Current summer ride, replica Cobra.

Look on the woofer speaker magnet. I find more hardware stuck to that every time.