Quoted from cooked71:

Oh yeh, I can see that now. Strange.

Quoted from dashv:

I had/have the same node board behavior. I actually think that’s by design.
It happens every time the coin door is open, but only then.
If you open the door but then press and hold the white button that detects if the door is open/closed those errors all go away.
I think it’s just because they cut power to those boards to prevent folks from getting zapped. Notice when you open the coin door the whole playfield goes dark.
I took video here:

And verify it’s the door switch causing it here:

If I was stern I wouldn’t show this error unless someone actually ran the diagnostics. Even then I would detect if the door is open and inform the user on the screen that the door must be closed for those tests to pass.
Not user friendly for sure.

Quoted from DeathHimself:

Not all models of the Munsters did without rhyme or reason some machines did and others didn't and build dates didn't seem to matter as well. My machine B/W Prem built March 2019 does not have the high voltage cutoff switch.

Quoted from Ricmaz:

just installed my topper. The door for Raven opens all the way initially, but then only holds around 2/3rds to 3/4s of fully open. Anyone one encounter this? I noticed that you can see the coil settings but I didn’t see how to change them. Ideas?

Quoted from CTHOMAS1998:

I like that idea! Might give that a try.

Quoted from Who-Dey:

How many plays have you guys put on your Munsters games so far? I haven't played mine much, only got about 700 I think?

Quoted from cabal:

This time i did something with a 3d printer.
remodeled the Munsters that it is 3d printable, letters attached together. And some neon green filament.
Letters are about 5mm thick. The Print is about 7cm wide.[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from cabal:Hi,
yes thats the big question, i only got this as clue. I know what ever has "HERMAN" to do with munsters. It's like what has bender to do with Futurama and so on. On the Word and Character "Herman" i am working since the beginning on the quest for secret mania.
And i am breaking my head how we could translate that or other words that have connection to herman will translate into a flipper code.
i tried herman as a direct flipper code, with a letter translation like chuck said A=1, B=2, C=3 and so on until Z=26
no luck there.
Peter

Quoted from cabal:

Took some time, thingiverse needs a wait time of 24h for new accounts to publish things.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4276887

Quoted from cabal:

Yes please upload it to thingiverse.
For the broken plastic there is a service kit from Stern out:
Stern Pinball Service Kit Munsters Plastic #19 Black & White #502-7096-01
https://www.kms-handel-shop.de/de/stern-pinball/stern-pinball-service-kit-munsters-plastic-19-black-white-502-7096-01_40568_12403
i have found it on my disitributors site. But you should get it from Stern or your distributor directly.

Quoted from oldpins:

I have had over 500 games to date on my Premium. I had previously 3D printed (Designed by' Cabal' - Thank you !) the post support to prevent the wire form near Herman from bending. Playing a few games this morning and a ball has hit and broken the tip off the plastic as shown. My concern is that a ball could now hit the back of IR PCB on the left ramp with the possibility of breaking it or worse. To help in protecting the small IR PCB, I have designed a 3D printed cover which slips over the top of the PCB and is a very simple install. Cosmetically it improves the look at the back of the PCB as well.
I could upload onto 'Thingiverse' if anyone wants the .stl file so they can 3D print.[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from coasterguy:

Pro or premium? Would I regret not getting the lower play field?

Quoted from mbwalker:

Since you just got the pin, keep an eye in this area. The guide can get bent and in my case, damage the opto board sitting next to it. There's a 3D print somewhere in this thread file. You can download the file have someone print it for you to help keep it from bending.[quoted image]

Quoted from Enron64:

Hello all, not an owner but I am debating it. I originally wanted to buy a NIB Munsters premium but believed the pinside hate about it and the distributor I went with talked me into a deadpool pro. It’s been 6 months and deadpool just isn’t for me. I have an opportunity to trade for a monsters LE and some cash on my end. It looks really fun to me and I love the idea of the mini playfield as it leaves the upper playfield open and less clunky and cluttered. I guess I am just looking to see if people who own it enjoy it.

Quoted from Lopa:

Does anybody know of a protector for the spot opto receiver?
[quoted image]

Quoted from chewiec:

What is the best way to get access to Grandpa's Laboratory? I need to clean that playfield and install the ramp cover. Thanks everyone!

Quoted from big-c66:

I was wondering if anyone has had a problem with lower play field clock showing 10 seconds just all of a sudden while playing n then it will go off and when u start to go into the lower play field it starts counting off time before you can even start playing. Also when raven starts counting 4-3-2-1 it skips sometimes from 4 to 1 mine is brand new just got it first week September. Thanks

Quoted from sulli10:

I had to do full update and "verify" to get mine down loaded

Quoted from big-c66:

Man it’s gotten quite on here. Any body got to play further in the new code or been to busy to play like I have. Work is killing me has anyone updated there rateing talk to me my people is there anybody left out there. LOL LOL

Quoted from big-c66:

I’ve got a problem wanted to see if anyone had a idea what is wrong.
My right flipper in bottom play field on my Munsters premium will stick sometimes it will stay up n I’ll tap it a couple of times n it goes back. It’s almost like it gets stuck any ideas I appreciate any help thanks so much.

Quoted from Stebel:

My friend printed me some replacement flashers caps from thingaverse. He used transparent filament. Turned out pretty nice and matches the black and white theme better.
[quoted image]

Quoted from Stebel:

The files are on thingaverse. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2780429
My friend printed at 45%. I thought they were a bit tall so I cut off the bottom rung and a half. Also hollowed out the center with a drill bit hoping to disperse the light a bit better.
Completely removed the factory flasher cap. Made a small plastic piece, roughly the same size as the stern flasher board. Epoxied the new flasher cover to the plastic piece.

Quoted from Stebel:

The files are on thingaverse. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2780429
My friend printed at 45%. I thought they were a bit tall so I cut off the bottom rung and a half. Also hollowed out the center with a drill bit hoping to disperse the light a bit better.
Completely removed the factory flasher cap. Made a small plastic piece, roughly the same size as the stern flasher board. Epoxied the new flasher cover to the plastic piece.

Quoted from mbwalker:

I downloaded the files and noticed they were solid, so I went into TinkerCad and hollowed one out (reversed it for the example below). I'm out of translucent filament, so was just fooling around for now.
Some red translucent would be neat! A translucent resin print would be even better.
[quoted image]

Quoted from mbwalker:

Very nice! I've made 3D mods for myself and friends and one thing I try to do is make the mods easy to install (i.e. slip on). So kudos to you for being able to slip over the existing flashers!
Not long ago, I 3D printed a raptor for my JP Pro that hides the original flat plastic raptor. I printed a fence that the raptor was 'breaking thru'. I didn't actually print the raptor itself, I bought that for a few bucks at a hobby store and made a mounting hole in the fence that his tail slipped thru and hot glued it in place. A few small holes at the base for mounting the fake plants (hides the original raptor flat plastic) and some hobby wire from Walmart for the 'busted fence' part...and done. Slips right over the original plastic.
In case you've missed it - there's a rather active 3D printing thread here on Pinside.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Jnyvio:

I would absolutely hot glue a small, round steel ball on the top. It will look 1000x better.

Quoted from mbwalker:

That would be a great finishing touch. Wonder if you could find a nice looking plastic ball bearing that would be easy to drill into? Bronze or copper would be easy too. Maybe find something at a hobby store?
Edit: Something like this?
[quoted image]
Or this for an old school look?[quoted image]

Quoted from Jnyvio:

Anyone else here receive a message on time to change the batteries inside the Munsters pin?? What size are they and where are they located? Is it hard to do? And do you lose any of the custom settings during the swap out? Tnx

Quoted from Mutt:

I'm gonna order one of these guys today. thanks.
did the same kind of this to replace the plastic clock.[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from mbwalker:

There's a free 3d model of Grandpa on thingiverse (if you have the 3D printer): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5959055
[quoted image]

Quoted from Thunderbird:

It’s from the coil stops. They need replacing it appears.