I've been trying these out recently on some of my pins. I like the fact that they cover the entire shooter lane. Bought them from Mezel Mods

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A couple of small zip ties to help keep it in place?

Interesting - I have the same issue w/my opto, but the metal guard is OK. 2 of the 3 wires sheared right off and the opto plastic is busted. Fixed the wires and taped it in place for now. New one on the way, but I think I might 3D print something to help protect that area,

Any word on ETA?

How hard is it to bend back?

My new Spot opto showed up today, but won't get it installed for a couple of days. So I figured I'd take a closer look at my rail and it is indeed slightly bent (after thinking it was OK).

My Spidey sense tells me it might be beneficial to put a fat Titan sleeve on this post to help stop the rail from bending... Should give it some lateral support and protect the opto. There's even a place for a ring, but it might sit just a tad high.

Will report back unless someone beats me to it.
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Thanks cab, you're quick! I have an Ender 3D printer and may dabble with something too. I do think some silicone or rubber added to the 3D print would help (think mini flipper rubber, ring, etc.) to soften blow. At least w/PLA - might not hold up otherwise. PLA+ might do better since it bends a little more. Never tried ABS or nylon.

How about making it fit over the current post? That would give it more surface area at the hole.

What was you infill percent? I think I'd go 100%.

Yes, slip over the entire post. Only reason I mentioned that is there would be more surface area (i.e. the hole is bigger, and the entire length), might make it stronger. Just a wag tho.

I'll PM you my e-mail shortly.

Thanks!

I traded some e-mails with Calab and printed his 3D support for the rail. I stuck a #6 washer under it to raise it up a bit in order to help prevent any PF wear since after a while, we're suspecting there might be some wiggle. Very sturdy tho. 100% infill and I rotated it 90 degrees when printing in order to make the layers perpendicular to the rail This keeps the printed layer 'seams' from being parallel with the rail.

My old opto was broken and had the wires sliced. On the new one, I zip tied them up a bit to keep them away from anything sharp.

In the end, Stern does need to address these issues properly. But for now Calab came up with an excellent workaround.

Thanks Calab!

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LOL, I almost added that to my post cause I was really worried about that. I stuck a small zip tie thru one hole to hold it in place. Reached around to position the other hole. Took about 1 minute tops .

Ask Calab, he designed it!

I just rotated it in the slicer (Cura). Downside is now the layers are parallel to the screw that held down the original post. Just a WAG, but I think this is a better option.

Ditto here, or at least getting that way. Time to bug Cliffy.

The original gent uploaded it to thingiverse.com

Hey Guys (and any Gals),

Need a small favor from my fellow Munsters friends.

I have some dings in the bottom of my Pro cabinet (front - no, I didn't do it). Too busy right now to bondo and re-decal properly. But until then I'd like to at least print something, attach it to some backer material, and fit it in there so it looks a bit better. Can someone snap 2 or 3 high res pics so I have the correct artwork to fill with? Might be better w/a flash or in sunlight so the color is a closer match.

If so, reach out w/a PM.

Thanks ahead of time,
Mark

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Got a decent deal, so no biggie. I'll make it good as new in the end.

Too busy right now, barely have time to play the pins! I usually just ping Pinball Life, and they add it to their weekly order.

Bump (my own post)!

Thank you!!

Just a quick thank you to CrazyPinballGuy for snapping a photo for me - much appreciated.

Thanks for helping!

Dustin - Back up to post 7602, a few of us were discussing this very issue. Also look for my picture of using a zip tie to move the wires in a safer location to avoid the same issue happening again. And check to see if the rail is straight.

Maybe it's the electric chair from the show?

A Gottlieb coil???

I'd at least report it to Stern, so it's on the record. Include the picture(s) too.

I'd actually look for an open too (bad solder joint, not a short) on the LED itself, or make sure the LED is installed correctly.

Adding to pinballaddicted's comments, how good are you at using a multimeter? Can you solder?

Ditto! ^^

Anyone happen to have a spare plastic of Grandpa for sale? Don't really want to buy the entire set...

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I've owned the pin for ~6 months and finally noticed it was missing!

Welcome to the club!

Just a quick FYI...I think you're missing some decals here:

Ask me how I know...

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LOL. Mine on the left came off. Never even noticed until I found the stuck sticker on the PF somewhere else. I tried to stick it back on, but no luck - and not worth the effort to buy the entire set.

Since you just got the pin, keep an eye in this area. The guide can get bent and in my case, damage the opto board sitting next to it. There's a 3D print somewhere in this thread file. You can download the file have someone print it for you to help keep it from bending.
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Here's a pic of mine:
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It's discussed around post 7800, if you are interested.

Rev A.

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Just checked them out, very cool...but $15 each...a little bit of an ouch. But of course, I just ordered one.

One or two might be nifty, but all of them - bit pricey.

Kudos on the seller tho - glad he's making them available. Thanks Simp for pointing them out.

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You probably don't have much to worry about.

I have the HD glass in 4 pins, I think. Only buy it at shows or from a buddy that when he get's a pin w/it at a good price. Usually my fav first mod, if the pin warrants it. Munsters doesn't have it yet. The Pro PF is so dark, I don't think I'd benefit. Maybe some sort of Pin Stadium's would help.

Adding to C0unt's comment - there's a 3D print to help keep the rail from bending. The gent put the file up on Thingiverse. I printed one, works great. My opto had gotten busted due to the wireform bending. On the new one, I added a zip tie to keep the wires safe as an extra precaution.

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Yep, take a look at my post #7682 in this thread

If I'm not mistaken, the original Grampa 'non-cliffy' is prone to wearing out. So are still going to replace?

I wonder if there's something different about this VUK area than others. My AS Pro I sold maybe 6 months ago, that Stern protector looked like the day it was installed. That was a routed pin too.

I remember seeing that, and how odd looking it was being bent up. But still, I wonder what's so 'special' (in a bad way) with the Grandpa's VUK protector constantly get's so beat up in such a short order? Does it just have too much slop on the sides?

Taking a Snipit from you picture, that raised part - it seems like the vertical section of the protector in the hole is perhaps bending, resulting in the raised part up top?

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If you end up buying the entire plastic kit, I could use 'Grandpa' above the VUK, mine's missing. Shoot me a PM if interested.

Ditto with what cotton said. While I don't have a Munster Prem, I did it on my AC/DC. It really is easy. I recall going side to side a couple times, sort of like torqueing nuts on a wheel or leveling a 3D printer build plate.

In the end, either way will work.

Thanks for the info, hadn't heard about the screw heads popping off.

The only reason I take off my AC/DC from the top is just so I don't have fool around with the wires. Plus I remember reading that lower PF is a bit of a PIA. When AC/DC first came out, you had to remove the lower PF - couldn't get to the plastic cover otherwise.

Just getting ready to PM you.

Thank you! And darn you! You didn't have to do that but much appreciated. If you ever need more, just holler.

Good people on this thread.

Looks like the "from the bottom" guys have spoken!

Obvious question, but need to ask...you do have a post here w/a 7/16" ring, right (I can't see it in your picture)? Did the ring slip up or down? Looks like the ring should be able to give it enough offset to let it roll to the right.

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Here's mine. Post doesn't go thru the plastic.

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Maybe Just try a bigger ring? I put Titans in mine right after I got it (used, routed), can't say I've ever had a ball get stuck there. I don't think I leveled the game tho. But looking at mine, I can't foresee a ball getting stuck there.

It does look a little low in the pic (meaning high compared to the PF) - I think I see the recessed area of the post a bit.

Try this - just place a ball there and move the ring so it lines up to the center line of the ball. Any chance you have a spare ring? My Star Trek Pro had the same problem w/a trap around the pops, others had the same problem too. I just stuck a bigger ring on it.

The other thing that might be causing it is the pop switch might be set a little wide - so it wasn't firing as much, letting the ball get stuck there.

You just set the gap on the leaf spring switch. I've seen good write ups on Pinside before - I'll do a quick search.

Edit: Check out Vid's write up. Didn't read all of it, so Stern's pops might not be covered specifically, but should be enough to get you going.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-rebuilding-pop-bumpers

https://www.titanpinball.com/

But I wouldn't buy just one because of shipping - so probably hold off a bit. If you do think a bigger ring might help, I'd just make a trip down to the local hardware and see if you could kludge something to see if it's needed.

I'd look at the pop not being sensitive before buying anything.

Wzpin, I took the glass off and manually placed a ball there. It would stay in place, but I imagine that if it had any speed at all, I don't think that would happen. While I was at it I checked my playfield. Side to side up there was at 0.2 degrees. Front to back pitch was 7.0 degrees. Maybe you just need to adjust the steepness at tad bit more.

I think you mentioned you checked your playfield, but didn't see the numbers. Got them?

Don't tell her...

Hey Guys,

Anyone have the tech support contact at Stern? My Munsters audio acts up occasionally. Sometimes no bass, sometimes no audio at all. Sometimes when I don't hear any audio, as I shut the pin off...I hear it for a moment as the power supplies are slowly collapsing. So I need to run that by Stern.

The pin's audio is working now, and the VA status LED is lit (power supply for audio), I'll have to check the VA LED when the audio screws up again. One thing I noticed is the VA LED remains off when the game is booting up - likely delayed to keep garbage from coming out the speakers as the things get initialized.

Thanks ahead of time.

I also had an Aerosmith and I think that did it once or twice too.

Thanks for the tech info.

I don't mind the 'deepness' of the code, but some additional video assets would be nice.

Boy, this was long overdue. Replaced with a Cliffy.

You can see how beat up the one vertical section is, the other side doesn't even have the vertical piece.

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I put it off for about 6 months because I read comments that there's a little bit of work involved. LOL. Wasn't bad. The right wireform needs to at least be moved (loose, not completely removed). Just 3 nuts for the wireform.

So the plastics and wireform are just the typical screw or nut stuff. No biggie there.

The one thing that was a little bit of a PIA for me was the post that catches the edge of the original Stern protector (back left side if you are looking from the front). That means the post needs to come out. At first I figured there was the typical T-nut on the back side of the PF, but there's really a nut w/the built in nylon washer under the PF. So I removed the nut and the post's threads were a little tight in the hole. That's where it got a little tricky for me since my 3/8" deep-well socket is MIA (the post's 'built in nut' is at the base). I tinkered around with a closed wrench but that was going far too slow. Luckily, a metric deep-well socket must be close enough to 3/8"...and then it got a lot easier.

I put down a microfiber rag to catch any washers/screws/nuts that got loose, but they all behaved.

Here's a pic of the post and the new Cliffy. You can see how it (and the Stern part) catches the protector.

I should add - the VUK doesn't need to be removed or loosened. (I'm missing the 'Grandpa' plastic, was missing when I bought it).

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Adding to my original post: One thing I would suggest is to tighten the post from the backside of the PF, hold the post in place from the top. That will help prevent any damage from the post up top turning, digging into the PF clear coat.

That's neat. I've been thinking along the lines of maybe 3D printing Grandpa, if I can find a decent file on Thingiverse to mod/paint...keep forgetting to check.

For maybe 6 months after buying the pin, I hadn't even noticed Grandpa was missing. Then one day when I was installing some Titans I noticed the empty brackets. Hmmm...what goes there? Duh!

That did turn out good. Googling for a Grandpa Munster 3D file, I found this. Might print one today.

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The Pro could really use some up top too. Such a sharp looking PF but barely lit. We typically play with the lights off at night and the PF is really dim compared to the other pins.

Printed a Grandpa to replace my missing Grandpa plastic. Wifey is still playing around with the colors. Just slips over the metal brackets for the plastic.
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So you used the 2D image on the left as the source and turned it into 3D?

OK...that makes more sense.

Sure looks like this:
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Mine broke off too and I never even knew it!

Adding to @hd60609's comment, it would go here:

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Glad to help! If you didn't notice - the part number was on the first SnipIt I posted.

I own a Pro, but recently played a Prem on location. Can't say I was thrilled by the lower PF, especially the smaller balls. Not trying to rain on the Prem owners tho.

Any chance you can play a Pro near you?

When I printed the rail support for my Pro, I rotated it 90 degrees so the layers were vertical (i.e. perpendicular to the rail). I was worried about the layers being parallel to the rail, causing the print to eventually split. Not sure if it makes any difference, just more of FYI. Had mine in for maybe a year, so far, so good - but don't play everyday.

Might want to look into the 3D printed rail protector mentioned not long ago in this thread. Keeps the long rail to the left of Herm from bending. Plus I zip-tied the opto wires next to the rail too, the opto's a common failure. I understand this is routed, might save you a trip back tho.

There's a rail support posted on Thingiverse, I've a printed a few for Munsters owners. Opto cover too, but I haven't used the cover myself. If you get around to swapping the rubbers, might be a good time to put in a rail support.
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https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4276887

Any plans to swap out the stock rubbers with color ones? That's likely what I would think about when going w/the green protectors (i.e. would the green clash?)

Does cancelling carry over from ball to ball?

Good to know, was never sure.

Yep, plus the it's pretty easy to catch the music and video for a prompt too. I usually cancel but normally would try to cash in before the ball ended.

How does that stop the wireform from bending?

Cool of Stern to send that to you. Did you buy Munsters new?

Thanks! From the original picture, it looked like just a plastic protector (the kind that sits right under the plastic).

Just requested one thru Stern this AM via the support link on their web page. They shot me an email rather quickly asking for the shipping info which I sent. Excellent service by Stern regarding this matter.

FYI, you'll need to supply the pin's serial number when filling out the short online form.

I 3D printed the fan cooler, but I'm waiting on connectors so I wired it to an external supply. The power supply 'jet engine' fan never turned on. Nice and quiet!

I printed and installed the 3D part maybe a year ago, no issues (but home use). The other thing I did was to use some of those little zip tie things to secure the wires so they can't move around if by chance they get hit (unlikely).

So have you looked at exactly why it stays open? I mean, is it caught on anything or a burr somewhere causing it to hang up? Or if you push it closed with your finger, does it just need an extra little bit of help?

In my neck of the woods, the Do It Best and Ace hardware stores carries a HUGE selection of screws/bolts/nuts/springs/misc gizmos, etc. Maybe you can try one of those places to find a spring better suited.

I downloaded the files and noticed they were solid, so I went into TinkerCad and hollowed one out (reversed it for the example below). I'm out of translucent filament, so was just fooling around for now.

Some red translucent would be neat! A translucent resin print would be even better.
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Very nice! I've made 3D mods for myself and friends and one thing I try to do is make the mods easy to install (i.e. slip on). So kudos to you for being able to slip over the existing flashers!

Not long ago, I 3D printed a raptor for my JP Pro that hides the original flat plastic raptor. I printed a fence that the raptor was 'breaking thru'. I didn't actually print the raptor itself, I bought that for a few bucks at a hobby store and made a mounting hole in the fence that his tail slipped thru and hot glued it in place. A few small holes at the base for mounting the fake plants (hides the original raptor flat plastic) and some hobby wire from Walmart for the 'busted fence' part...and done. Slips right over the original plastic.

In case you've missed it - there's a rather active 3D printing thread here on Pinside.

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Thanks guys, that was a fun mod!

I've been trying to find a nice Thingiverse Munsters file I could mod for some '3D speaker' grilles. I made some for JP that I think turned out pretty decent.

Just can't find any good Munsters stl files tho. Here's the JP grilles:
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Sorry - don't mean to turn this into the 3D thread.

That would be a great finishing touch. Wonder if you could find a nice looking plastic ball bearing that would be easy to drill into? Bronze or copper would be easy too. Maybe find something at a hobby store?

Edit: Something like this?
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Or this for an old school look?

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Standard

Looks like I have 1.03 and 1.10 for the Pro. Holler if you need it.

It's on Netflix now and available at RedBox. It's painful to watch, haven't made it past maybe 15-20 min.

PM sent.

There's a free 3d model of Grandpa on thingiverse (if you have the 3D printer): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5959055

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Ditto on what northerndude said, catch the body of the switch and the legs w/the silicone. Not so much the wires.

You can also try a very small zip tie that catches the side of the microswitch screw heads and the two switch leads. You would be trying to keep things slightly in compression but not excessive, meaning if it's caused by the microswitch body vibration being different than the legs - they are now in unison (i.e. moving together).

Might not hurt to zip ties the two wires together too. And maybe even adding a 2nd zip tie down to the micro switch to hold the wires and switch together. Again, trying to keep everything moving in unison.

I sold my Minsters, so I can't personally check this out. It would be nice if someone could do a slow-mo video of video of the vuk firing so we can see how things move.

Thanks, that helps a lot. Sounds like the hot glue works.