Omaha, NE
And the mirror blades he has In there adds a lot of reflective light as well
(Topic ID: 233776)
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Munsters (Limited Edition)
Stern, 2019-
Munsters (Premium)
Stern, 2019
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Stern, 2019
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1 month later
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1 week later
Anyone else having trouble with the Dragula launch not getting the ball all the way around the orbit? I tried re aligning the coil plunger with the ball as it was off center and just when you think you have fixed the problem it comes back after a few launches. I have also tried adjusting the coil power up and down and it doesn't seem to make any difference at all. It reminds me of the launch on Demolition Man when the ball kind of rattles it's way out of the chute and then stalls out and drops through the roll over lanes. That is exactly what is happening here.
John
Quoted from Who-Dey:Ok so how often are you guys getting balls stuck in your lower playfield? Ive played two nights now and had to get in there and fish out a ball both nights. Is this common or am i just getting that lucky? Luckily i have a telescopic magnet that i fish them out with, best tool in my tool box. Just make damn sure that you turn the power off first if you use one to do this.
Here is where mine are getting stuck. It is happening quite often and yes, my lower flippers are set to "soft". Seems I could remove the lower playfield and bend the little tab in tighter that the rear plastic peice is screwed on to allow enough clearance so the ball falls back down onto the playfield. Not sure what to put on the left plastic that would look good to deflect the ball from getting hung up on the wire form though.
20190409_221752 (resized).jpg20190409_221813 (resized).jpgScreenshot_20190409-221841_Gallery (resized).jpgQuoted from JimB:I haven't had a problem but wondering if you added more pitch to the play field maybe it wouldn't get stuck there?
My pitch is at 7.2 the ball goes airborne and lands in there from the top and literally "wedges" itself against the 2 plastics that is why I think if I can bend the bracket back far enough to allow clearance for the ball to fall through to the playfield it would fix the problem. I don't think any amount of playfield angle would make any difference.
Quoted from Who-Dey:So what are your guys methods for getting the balls unstuck?
The first time I pulled the window out of the playfield. After that, I found a long skinny screwdriver that fit through the slots in the lower playfield and pushed the ball out. When the ball gets stuck on the wire form I flipped the playfield up 90ﾟ and it falls out. Ironically the last time I did that the other ball fell out of the out hole and got wedged into the plastic behind the machine as shown in the photo. What a pain in the ass!
I was able to fix the the issue where the ball gets stuck on the plastic behind the machine. I disassembled the lower playfield and bent the little bracket in tighter that held the plastic in place and also took a heat gun to form the plastic to fit the curve of the upper arch. I also put a smaller head screw to hold the plastic in place. It is completely out of the way now. I'm still struggling to come up with a nice looking deflection piece to keep the ball from getting stuck on the left plastic below the wire form.
20190409_221823 (resized).jpg20190413_090127 (resized).jpgScreenshot_20190409-221841_Gallery (resized).jpgScreenshot_20190413-090912_Gallery (resized).jpg 1 week later
Quoted from drained:Noticed on the DF stream with the Prem when a ball was stuck on the lower playfield the chat and DF mentioned a rail Stern is adding to LP, and can be requested if you don't have one. Anyone know what this is about ?
Is this where the ball got stuck? This is where it has gotten stuck on mine a few times.
Screenshot_20190409-221841_Gallery (resized).jpgQuoted from lschmidlin:As a follow up, Chas did respond within a few hours, which was cool. However he said the solution is to cut the lower ring off the wire form. Not sure I want to do that on my brand new game.
Probably just being a baby, but there's something about taking wiresnips out and cutting parts off a brand new wire form.
However, he also said that they will send a new part if you send them your seriel number and address.
Just wanted to follow-up!!
Send a new part meaning what? A new wire form or a new part to install that actually deflects the ball and fixes the problem?
Quoted from lschmidlin:New wire form without the ring that is catching the ball. No deflector. Should work.
Thanks for the clarification. I will be contacting my distributor on Monday.
I am doing the 5 1/4" Kenwood speaker upgrade on my premium and was going to install speaker lights. All of the kits I see light up the the whole rectangle speaker panels and I prefer the look of just lighting around the speaker like in this photo. Can anyone tell me where I can order a speaker light kit like this one?
Screenshot_20190430-202246_Chrome (resized).jpgStill looking for help on this speaker lights mod. I would like to install speaker lights in a Munsters Le like the one in the photo attached
where the LEDs run around the speaker instead of the rectangle housing. No one seems to know where to purchase a kit. If is a custom built set up I'm willing to do the work if I knew what parts were needed. The sad thing is the gentleman that owns the Munsters LE unit in picture attached could put this thing to rest in seconds but he not responding to my pm's so it must be some sort of secret he is not willing to share. It would have saved me a lot of headaches but not a big deal at all I just though the pinsider community was tighter. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Otherwise I'll take the time to figure it out.
John
Quoted from Pinwalk:So when game is over, and I match numbers for a credit, the "pop" sound is super loud. I haven't seen an adjustment to turn the volume down on that "pop", is there one, or do I have to turn sound down for entire game?
Yes it is under standard adjustments number 43 "knocker volume". You can set it to "low" I had to do the same on mine.
1 week later
2 months later
Quoted from chuckwurt:It’s jumping the opto. Try putting some sort of roof on that part of the ramp to keep the ball down.
Pinball Life has this item in stock.
Screenshot_20190724-092505_Chrome (resized).jpg 2 months later
Quoted from Squizz:Did anyone else receive a plastic ramp fix for the right lower mini ramp, where the ball skips the opto 75% of t he time?
Just wondering what yours looked like.
This is what the fix looks like.
Screenshot_20190924-080538_Gallery (resized).jpgScreenshot_20190924-080552_Gallery (resized).jpg 1 week later
Quoted from Who-Dey:No thats not it but thanks anyway. Someone showed the lower playfield with a big piece of plastic I think that wrapped all the way behind “the machine” in the lower playfield that wouldnt allow balls to get stuck there anymore. I cant find the post now but ill look again tomorrow. Surely i didnt dream this did i? Lol
Who-Dey,
I'm telling you, just do what I did and your issue will go away forever. Once you remove the lower playfield it is literally a 5 minute fix with no money out of pocket. Slightly bend the little tab down that holds the deflector plastic behind the machine. Just doing this will give you the clearance you need for the ball to fall back down onto the playfield if it hops up on there. And if you have a heat gun you can do what I did and warm up the plastic and form it for a little added clearance for good measure.
3 weeks later
Quoted from dashv:does anyone have any tips for adjusting the leaf switch sensitivity on “the machine” in the lower playfield? Do I just remove the glass and go in that way? Do I have to lift the playfield and/or remove the switches to adjust them?
Just remove the lower playfield and you will then have full access to make any necessary adjustments. Removing the lower playfield is extremely easy. 4 nuts to remove and a couple of connectors and it come right out. There really isn't any way you can screw it up. Throw a coat of wax on it while you have it out.
1 week later
Quoted from cottonm4:When I hold the left flipper button, the yellow light lights up at the base of the Marilyn ramp for the super skill shot. It does matter if I make the super skill shot or not. I get no action from Grandpa. You have me confused.
[quoted image]
You have to hold both upper AND lower left flipper buttons to activate the super skill shot in Grandpa's laboratory.
2 weeks later
Quoted from SBrothers:Thanks...I ordered those kenwoods and the 5 1/4 adapters and gaskets from pinball life but somewhere I read that spacers were also needed. Now I cant find the bloody post that lists what spacers are needed. Ugh!
Pinball Life has them:
3 months later
Quoted from TonyScoots:cabal
Secret Mania
I did the flipper code you posted and this came up
[quoted image]
Quoted from TonyScoots:cabal
Secret Mania
I did the flipper code you posted and this came up
[quoted image]
No! We should not be shaking hands!! Keep a distance of at least 6 feet away from this fool.....
E4E08461-4705-4DEC-8AD2-A5C21F2D81DB (resized).png 1 week later
Quoted from luvthatapex2:Well it wouldn't be a secret now if you didn't have to enter a code, would it?
What he is saying is that it would be nice if once you have achieved secret mania you would not be required to put the code in to play it as it would not be a “secret” anymore
1 week later
Quoted from Jon9508:I hope with the code update you can adjust the raven call out volume. Sometimes they get lost in the music and sound effects. I love the topper though and its intergragration though.
^^This^^
3 weeks later
Quoted from cottonm4:Unboxing the rig.
Trouble in Paradise
------------------------------
It is minor. In the production rush, the inspectors missed this.
The small rod that actuates the door was riding against the door frame. A little work with the Dremel tool fixed that.
[quoted image]
[quoted image].
Cottonm,
Your door rod actuator is installed incorrectly. It needs to be flipped 180° so the rod is offset to the right away from the doors edge. See photo attached
382EACB6-F6AA-43E9-940A-27DCC569C692 (resized).jpegQuoted from johnnypinball:Cottonm,
Your door rod actuator is installed incorrectly. It needs to be flipped 180° so the rod is offset to the right away from the doors edge. [quoted image]
Quoted from cottonm4:I don't know how hard it is to set that rod correctly. I'll have to open the unit up and take a look.
I have pooling around one post only. The rest of my play field is 100%.
Like MK6PIN has stated it is pretty straight forward. You will have to remove the rear portion of the topper where all the LED lamp boards are mounted for the characters (which you already have done since you have an LED out) then remove the roof panels with a Phillips screw driver to gain access to the raven mechanism. Once it is exposed you need a 5/16 nut driver to remove the raven mechanism. There is also a two pin plug to disconnect. You have to remove it because the screw that holds the rod at the rear is screwed in from underneath and there is no way to reach it without removing the mechanisms. While you have the mechanism out check for movement and see if anything is binding. My door hinge was super tight and I had to buff a burr off of it with a Dremel tool then lightly oiled the hinge pin. It works perfectly now. I also switched the spring out for a lighter flipper return spring which allowed me to go with a weaker coil (one for a Gottlieb chime) as the coil that is in there now is too powerful and slams so violently that the plunger bounces back a little bit and does not allow the door to stay open completely. I learned this after taking a slow motion video of what was going on and as to why the door was not staying open all the way. One other flaw that I found was the right side of the steel edge where the nylon glide rides on underneath Raven the front corner had a sharp burr and was digging into the nylon glide and not allowing Raven to return consistently. I buffed that corner smooth and everything works like butter now.
1CDA5F2A-79E4-45EF-8FD4-7E01AA5A9BAD (resized).jpeg4BC530F7-DBA7-46F8-962F-740E01E98538 (resized).png630366F1-CB03-4718-B7AF-7A90476577E7 (resized).pngAFE8D86B-6E75-4C47-9B21-F1EB9C7DBEBE (resized).pngB0FB5092-3BF7-439E-88A7-8F3978458ACB (resized).jpegB475AFF3-A4F1-4D67-9AE1-AA9E49B6DBEE (resized).png
Quoted from MK6PIN:nice job and pics!!! Like your coil/ spring idea..
mine slams hard, but his head stays fully extended so I may or may not try that.
The biggest thing I can suggest for anyone- don't try to work on the topper while it's on the game ( ask me how I know), except maybe if you're experimenting w different color bulbs for Raven.
Everything is easy to access but alot of stuff going on up. Too much to screw around w it up there.
Thanks! Yes it does work a lot smoother with the spring positioning off to the side as it has a better pull with less binding. But if yours is working and extending fully I probably wouldn’t mess with it. And yes definitely take the topper off of the machine before working on it!!!
Quoted from cottonm4:I just got through taking mine apart and fixing the door rod. I have pics, too.
Everything is plastic except for the lower plate. It is metal with screw studs welded on.
[quoted image]
It works best if you remove all 4 faces from the topper. This will give you better access to some of the attachment nuts on the base and the plastics for the clock. The 4 plastics that make up the clock housing are directional; Left and Right. They will only go back on one way.
[quoted image]
Remove the big plastic light board on the back for better access for removing the clock. The clock hand is held one with one small screw. DON'T LOSE that screw.
The clock is attached to the base with three lock nuts. There are also two wire harnesses that need disconnected.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Once the clock is removed the raven can be accessed. Three nuts and to harness connectors.
[quoted image]
There is a small angle bracket that comes away with Raven. Don't forget to put it back on.
[quoted image]
The door actuator rod is held on with two screws---AND TWO SPACERS. Don't lose them. After I rotated the rod, it door seemed a little loose. I pushed down on the rod a little bit to tighten it up. But I do like your spring idea wand with do that before I remount the topper.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Mine has Stern coil
[quoted image]
When reattaching the 4 faces there is an easy way and a hard way. The easy way is mount Lily's face first then screw on the 2 locknuts just loosely. Ley her face lean forward. Then set Herman's face and loosely screw on the two nuts for his face. Now tighten Herman's face down. Then go for Lily. Repeat for the other side.
Hey Cottonm4 don’t forget to buff the rough corner smooth with a sanding drum on your dremel. If you look closely the way they stamped that corner it has sharp edges on it. You can feel it with your finger.
3D9D0470-1DF2-4569-B089-FD188273B24B (resized).jpeg70A7560A-F2AC-48BC-A915-6A0884B4DCAA (resized).pngQuoted from cottonm4:And now, Johnny pinball, back to you.
Couple of questions.
1) Did your topper come from the factory with a spring? Mine sure did not. What part does that spring play? The plunger is controlling the show, is how I see it.
2) When I press a flipper switch, the plunger travels to the coli stop and stays there. It does not bounce. It hits hard and locks down; You will not pull that plunger out easily when the coil is activated (try hand forcing an activated flipper by hand). I cannot grasp how this Raven plunger will bounce back. I do think I am going to try your softer hitting coil trick. But while thinking that my mind has me believing the coil is activated and pulls the plunger bracket assembly into the plunger side of the coil and it is going to slam anyway.
If you could described in a little more detail what you see in slow motion ,I would appreciate it.
What I really don't understand is that my Raven and door were opening completely. But after I rotated my door rod to match yours my Raven does not open all the way. And I don't know why.
The raven bracket and coil assembly is not a complicated affair but it sure has me scratching my head.
My topper came with the same type of compression return spring yours has. I replaced it with the flipper return spring by drilling a couple of holes to mount it. I thought the compression spring from Stern was too stiff causing the plunger to bounce back when compressed but actually the coil itself is too strong because when I remove the compression spring altogether to test my theory the coil plunger still bounced back because it engaged so violently. That’s what my slow motion video shows. If I knew how to attach a video I would and you would see for yourself. If you decide to go with a weaker coil you will have to replace the spring as I did because the compression spring that is on there now is too stiff for the weaker coil to pull the plunger all the way in. If your set up you have now is allowing the raven to fully extend and the door to swing completely open you are lucky. I probably would leave well enough alone.
John
Quoted from guss:Stern wants $993 for a Munsters pro playfield. I think that's too much. (the op thought it was to much too) I thought I would buy one for when the pooling starts chipping and the dimpling gets bad. I will think twice before I buy another Stern game.
Saw this add pop up:
5F49036E-79A0-45D0-B54E-E3125C97635C (resized).png 1 week later
Quoted from Jaeg:Joined the topper club again today. This one was tweaked by johnnypinball or with his recommendations and is working great. Looks very good and really completes this machine.
[quoted image]
Glad you are enjoying your topper! I am confident that after the refining and tweaking that was done to it you will not have another issue. That sucker works as smooth as butter now doesn’t it!
1 week later
Quoted from guss:I want to thank johnnypinball for his help and the mods for my topper. It works nice and smooth. Now if the cable keeps working.
No problem at all guss glad I could help! Fingers crossed you do not have any more issues!!
John
1 month later
Quoted from ToucanF16:What size speakers are in a Munsters LE, 4 inch or 5 1/4 inch?
Yes, they are 5 1/4” for sure
2 months later
7 months later
Quoted from Pizzaman13:People have been asking up to $1000 for the topper although not sure anyone is buying at that price.
You are correct. They are not buying at $1000
6B5EC38A-DA81-4B71-A182-FCD0BE7EF435 (resized).jpeg 8 months later
Quoted from Flippingr8:Update: I thought I had solved the problem using a different spring that I thought would provide a little more strength to the door return but that has already failed after just a few minutes - back to square one. Pictured is the clock door stuck half way out as before, and the spring I tried as a replacement to the broken original one. Believe I need a stiffer spring that will close the door better. Any suggestions (part number would be helpful) would be appreciated.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Read my findings in post 8152 and take a look at my post 8169 for a close up pic. Your issue is not the return spring but the door and raven glide binding up.
Quoted from MK6PIN:- A tip I'd recommend (from not doing it the first time) - take the topper off the game, just 4 screws, before starting to make adjustments. Lots of moving pieces, little screws in that thing, and a little tweak goes a long way. Hard to do on a ladder, at least for me.
This ^^^^^
Quoted from Flippingr8:johnnypinball - you were exactly right. I indeed did have a burr at the edge of the metal rail the nylon glide rides on which caused the glide to hang up a bit. I ground it off with a Dremel and that seems to have solved the problem without changing out the spring. I put a tiny amount of WD-40 on the door hinges too. The only thing I thought I noticed in playing a few games since was it seemed like I wasn't seeing Raven counting down 5-4-3-2-1 with door openings and closings every second during the last 5 seconds on the lower playfield, but I'm not sure about that yet (was that changed in the recent code update? - I'm on 1.11 now). Seemed like it just opened once and stayed open for 5 seconds. Anyway, at least the door seems to be closing decently when it is supposed to. Thanks again.
Photos show before and after grinding off the metal rail edge burr.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Excellent!! Glad you got it working smoothly!
1 week later
Quoted from big-c66:Mine has done that off n on sense I took it out of the box. I’ve never asked or researched it but it’s not the updates.
Mine does this as well. I keep waiting for the code update that fixes this bug but it sounds like it is still with us. Very frustrating. I will be updated to 1.21 tomorrow when I get some free time.
1 week later
Quoted from Jnyvio:I pointed this issue out about a year ago and posted images.. Even my friends noticed it and were like what the heck is that.. I fully support this fix request.. The video really needs to be cleaned up of this odd, clear, left sided halfmoon overlay (or whatever it is called).. Please! Consider fixing this in a future code update.. This is the cherry ontop of the new code sundae.
+1!
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