That looks terrible.

Agree

I'm not feeling it, but on the mock up

Does anyone know when the topper for this game will be available?

Thanks. Bored and work and playing with a $.99 app on my phone.

Sadly Stern as had a horrible track record on releasing toppers. Also, if they make a PREM version I would be interested if it comes out this year.

Sorry man that was just my opinion, but like TRC73 said above, that was great work on mocking it up.

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People are probably tired of having you explain it to them too :O)

Ok my game is really starting to piss me off for the last few days I’m getting rejection after rejection from grandpa scoop. I know I have my game setup slightly faster then suggested but still the bubble is crazy off, but I get reject about 9 out of 10 shots. The scoop isn’t lose, don’t appear bent nor is there any broken welds, and the protector looks fine and is flat. Any ideas?

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You have a protector on? Correct? Yes? No?

Is it a smooth transition between the surface of the protector and the surface of the Cliffy? Or is the protector sitting under the protector. IS there an edge on the Cliffy that causes the ball to jump a little?

Is the ball being deflected and pushed away from the scoop and not even entering the scoop? Or is the ball going all the way inside the scoop then hitting the vertical wall at the back of the scoop and being kicked back out? Or does it happen so fast that you cannot actually see what is happening?

Have grandpa's feet always been there? wondering if you might be getting a bit of air (would be hard to see as the gameplay is fast), possibly clipping them.

Try setting your upper flippers to soft for a bit to see if it goes away or diminishes the problem....maybe some unlucky bounces of the ball....

Try putting the soft side of velcro on the back of the scoop to deaden the ball when a fast straight shot hits the scoop. Or just strictly do backhands from the right flipper.

Yeah I guess I left some needed info out, yes grandpa feet has been there since day 1 before a game was even played, they are more then high enough as not to get in the way of the ball unless it’s an air ball but I haven’t seen any air balls nail him.

The protector is the one that came with the machine, I don’t believe cliffy makes one for the scoop as stern provides one with the machines. The protector is nice and flush as can be, no dents to launch the ball.

As far as the scoop goes I believe the ball is entering and popping back out real quick rather then dropping down. To be absolutely sure I guess I should video some play and review it to confirm. Like I said this is something that is happening the past few days, prior to that the play and scoop shots were nice and smooth.

Nothing was changed and altered in that time nor was the machine moved and all four flippers in the machine have been set to soft since 0.99 was installed. Just freaking weird.

Mine exhibit same condition. SLO video it and let us know what you see. Maybe Velcro in back helps?

Here’s my idea, PLAY BETTER!!

Lol just kidding, mine does the same exact thing and backhanding the ball with the right flipper seems to be the only way to make it stick in there. My bubble is also about exactly where yours is at. I like Chuckwurts idea but i think that a piece of ball dead drop foam would work better. I have a few minutes before i have to go to work so let me experiment and i will report back in a bit.

This is a real good idea. Some sort of impact resistance. I have been researching this because my Robocop has a bad habit of kicking a fast ball out of a saucer. My Robo has been down for some time but when I get back up and running I am going to try the using some impact resistant material.

You can buy impact resistant material (can I start a new acronym? IRM) but cell phone cases are made of impact resistant material so I am going to cut a small piece for my Robocop. If you have ever dropped your cell phone you may have observed that it does not bounce; It hits the floor and stops cold. That is the impact resistant material doing its job and keeping your dropped phone from bouncing like a basketball.

Adhesive backed velcro, as you suggest, would be easy to apply and may end the problem. You can buy this this stuff at Autozone.

I not, used cell phone cases are a dime a dozen; A piece could be cut to size and glued on with some upholstery adhesive.

I did not know about ball dead drop foam. That sounds like the solution.

I’ve had situations before with drop dead where it’s too thick and affects the ball when ejected. So thought maybe here the thinner soft side velcro might deaden the ball without effecting the eject trajectory.

Ok i put the dead drop foam in and i couldn't really decide at what point of the scoop that the ball was hitting so i just lined pretty much the entire inside of the scoop except for a small section near the bottom. Probably not needed or ideal but you dont really notice it (unless you have the scoop lit up with a scoop light mod) so who cares.

I found that it definitely helped alot. Its still not 100% but i dont know of any other scoops that are either, it is definitely a worthy improvement though and i recommend doing it. I also lowered the back of my game down (after i had already tested the scoop) just to see if it got any better and to see how it plays. It didn't make the scoop rejects any better or worse and im undecided on gameplay at this point until i can put more time in on it. It does seem like it helps with the accuracy of the lower playfield though.

Here are a few pics of the foam that i added to give you an idea of what i did. Sorry for the crappy pics, my phone camera isnt the greatest.
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Thx

FYI your protector is coming up in the front left corner- or at least it looks that way in the pictures.

I think as the protectors get beat up the part that lines the inside of the hole on the left and right starts to bend in and narrow the hole. It helps spring the ball out of the hole. Mine is much worse and rejects the ball a lot more than when new. I have a new protector to install to fix my situation. I also changed my flippers to normal from the default hard setting to hopefully preserve the new protector.

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Off topic but I was looking at another thread
I don’t know I still think this game is rather nice code wise as is
It’s like here it is,it’s all right here not to hard to get right?,go for it
Boom boom boom
Still having fun got two pins since and have come back to Munsters

Wow

How many plays did that to the protector?

Also, did you get a Stern or Cliffy replacement? If Stern can you send PM dimensions? I will ask Cliff to make a stronger version.

Thx

Thanks, i did not see that. Ive only got about 200 ish plays on it i think. Looks like trouble ahead.

I watched your video earlier today. I liked it. I did notice you said you needed to remove 3 nuts to get the cover off of the AC power box. I believe you only need to remove 2 of them (the one on the middle of the cover and the one holding the cover on the PCB on the left). That nut on the right side of it....I'm not really sure what it holds on, but I'm pretty sure it isn't the AC cover or there is any need to remove it to get to the Bill Validator plug...(or so the official Stern instructions say).

As for suggestions on future videos....yeah, an install of my upcoming Deluxe SPIKE 2 Speaker Light Kit from http://www.speakerlightkits.com It would be the very first install of one of them in a game that also has Pingraffix PowerBladez installed. They both use the game's Bill Validator plug, but I do plan on selling power splitters for that hookup, just in case a person wants to use my Deluxe SPIKE 2 Speaker Light Kit along with a bill acceptor or the PowerBladez.

If you are interested, it might be a good time to decide before you do any upgraded speaker purchasing, as they may or may not need to have spacers or spacer rings removed depending on what you are wanting to put in the game. I also have Replacement SPIKE 2 Speaker Plates (for standard 4" speaker use). They center the speaker holes in the honeycomb grill area and don't have the jail bars in the speaker holes. Of course they may not be needed (or even visible) depending on what speakers you are using and if you decide to keep the factory speaker foam in the game.

If you are interested...shoot me a PM and we can discuss what you would be interested in doing as far as the speakers and speaker lighting goes. It might be a good video idea and it could be internet gold if something asplodes.

Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)

Who-Dey did you torque Grandpa down too hard and spiderweb the shinkydink plastic?

cottonm4 have you tried shooting a super-slow-mo close-up of the problem spot to see what precisely is happening? That might help you choose a more appropriate fix.

I still can't decide whether or not to get a PF protector before dropping a ball inside....

No it must have came that way from the factory. Im gonna have to take a look at that and if thats not just an illusion that the camera caused i will get me a new one!

Grandpa scoop rejections are primarily due to the fact that the depth of the scoop is to shallow causing the ball to pop out. Adding some foam as Who-Dey did will help take some energy out of the ball when it makes contact with the scoop. But in my opinion the scoop rejects are mainly due to the depth being to shallow.

I think you are correct. Stern scoops always seem to have a lot of rejects, especially if the shot is far away.

I have put many a shot smack in the middle of that scoop and watched it jump out time after time even when the ball speed isnt that fast. Like most who have had their frustration level go up with that scoop I opt to shoot it with the right flipper to reduce the amount of potential rejections.

Yup same here buddy. With that foam in there though it is sticking much better now than it used to so im not nearly as scared to shoot at it with my left flipper as i was.

Does anyone have the link to Jack Dangers new Munster Premium stream, done this week?

Here you go.Thunderbird.

http://www.twitch.tv/deadflip/v/415058594?sr=a&t=63s

Captain, I do not yet own a Munsters (but I'm working on it). This is why I have to ask the questions that I ask. I think there is a simple fix for the mimi-ball that is getting stuck in the lower play field and I think there is a solution for the scoop problem but I don't have a pin in front on me to figure it out.

Ive only had a total of 3 balls stuck in the lower playfield so its really not a huge issue but it does suck when it happens. I think the flippers being on soft helps because balls arent flying around as much as they would be on hard.

Never had a ball stuck on my lower playfield.

A must watch!!!

Great video, love the " I summon you all here tonight......" Awesome

Trying the soft Velcro route as Chuck suggested, maybe not as much as Who-Dey used but we'll see.

Who-Dey if I played better then I'll just have to go post hate in the worse code ever thread lol. (j/k) love this game

I had to play a little after work this morning and i just cant believe i am having so much fun with a game that has such horrible code. I just couldn’t stop hitting the start button. I guess that I’m easy to please.

I think i may like the way the game plays now better since i put the bubble right in the center of the sight glass and decreased the slope a little. The lower playfield shoots more accurately and the game just feels smoother seems like. I love this shitty game!

Great stream but I wish we could hear the game instead of his music.

Ok here is what I have done and findings:

1 - I put some soft Velcro like Chuck suggested in the scoop.

2 - I leveled the bubble between the lines like Who-Dey suggested and liked.

3 - I revisited Grandpa's dangling feet Like MK6Pin suggested all clearance was good, no issues.

4 - Inspected the scoop protector again, no issues found.

Played a game to see how the changes worked out, still a good 9 out of 10 were being denied. WTF at this point........

Pulled the glass off and said let's poke around a bit, still see nothing. So what the hell the glass is off lets novice the lower PF glass for some extra protection while we are here.

Okay you know when that light bulb in your head goes off and shines your shadow on the wall looking like a dick lol, well Wa La!! In my infinite wisdom when I pulled my lower pf glass to clean the underside and wax the lower PF well upon reinstall when I was putting it back I torque the screws of the glass to make it be as level with the main PF as possible so when I run my finger across the two I cannot feel the edge of the glass. Apparently we shouldn't go down that far for believe it or not the glass edge was actually lower then the main PF and causing the balls to rise just before Herman and Grandpa's scoop. So I adjusted it the I can just barely feel the edge of the lower PF glass and now I make the shot 8/9 out of 10 times. I was more worried about protecting the stupid $69.00 glass more then the main PF. So lesson learned screw the glass you can always buy another and it's cheaper then PF. in addition I just made a stencil to cut a piece of mylar for the pf edge around the glass for some extra protection, let's see how that goes.

BTW I left all said adjustments in place as well, plays even better now. Thank all for the suggestions of help.

Nice work!

I’m toying with covering my ACDC window with Mylar to help protect it from scratches. I’ll report back if I move forward with it.

I’ve been doing regular polishing with novus 1 and waxing and while it helps, still getting scratched up. Hoping to keep the window clear as long as possible.

As a follow up, Chas did respond within a few hours, which was cool. However he said the solution is to cut the lower ring off the wire form. Not sure I want to do that on my brand new game.

Probably just being a baby, but there's something about taking wiresnips out and cutting parts off a brand new wire form.

However, he also said that they will send a new part if you send them your seriel number and address.

Just wanted to follow-up!!

Chuck, when i had my AC/DC that is exactly what i did with a piece of mylar. I took the mylar and put it over the plastic of the mini playfield lightly. Traced the playfield onto the mylar with a Sharpie. Peeled off the mylar and proceeded to cut it on my cutting mat with an Exacto. After finishing the cutting of the mylar, I laid it over the playfield. It was a bit foggier and not as clear, but it still looked good and prevented the plastic that cannot be replaced from being scratched.

Cool! I have a vault so my window is just like Munsters. So not a huge deal if it needs to be replaced, but thought I’d try this anyway.

Well here is a shot of the upper 50% edge of the main PF around the lower PF glass with Mylar protecting. It don’t look bad at all and now to put some time and see how it holds up.

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How hard will it be to pull that mylar up when you need to replace it? Will be like trying to pull mylar pop bumper rings on an older pin?

Air...my original thought...Glad you found it!!