Bam!!...you found your problem!!!...does your game now boot properly w no node board errors? Sounds like it does....

Regarding the other:

Raven door should close "square" to the front of the housing, but not tight. Hinge doesn't allow for it. Not a real biggy, provided he comes out and the door opens fully.

Raven light is definitely blinding...I switched mine to Red (think some have done Purple) https://www.cometpinball.com/products/8smd-spike-5v-flashers . you can bend the bracket down a bit (not too far..) and it looks great. Hoping it only lights when he comes out someday....not sure if code will fix it, as I didn't pay attention to how it was wired...maybe a schematic will surface at some point.

Brave moves!!!! Now tell Chas to send you the light string, along w a T-shirt for your hassle ......enjoy Raven taunting the crap out of you, and general chaos up there during Raven multiball and Munster Madness...you've earned it!!!!..

I went ahead and ordered a receiver and emitter for the staircase because they were so cheap ($17 for both). Not sure which one of the 2 were bad so replaced them both and it fixed the issue.

I never did get a reply back from the eMail I sent Stern.

Wow - you are right...

It does boot without a node error. The door doesn't close quite square, but not enough to really matter I don't think. I can reach up and push and it closes about a 1/8-1/4 inch more.

Thanks for the link! and for you all your support so far! ~ Tiff

That could be done mechanically with a micro switch. I'd have to look closer, but I think a micro switch could be positioned just behind the plunger bracket that would keep the switch open and when Raven pops out the switch closes and the light comes on. All you would need to do is run a little extra wire from the light to the switch.

you've got this...we can drill down on some ways to make the door a reliable mech...best play it for awhile and see how everything settles in now... enjoy it and wait on Chas part ( LED string) to arrive. It really adds to the whole experience. They are generally quick w that stuff..very satisfying to understand these mechs, and repair, potentially modify....the joy of pinball!!!

great idea, and I've thought of that. I requested a schematic to understand final intent before pursuing.. See no reason for it to light unless head pops out.

I also have an idea for the clock to be more accurate as the mech keeps moving. Will need to wait until the final fix/ polish code is released. That code is 100% coming...all the other requests I have no idea.

I notice this on mine, too. Or I thought I did. Thanks for confirming. Until I here see whacked out stuff from the clock, I'd just a soon have a lower priced topper without the clock.

EDIT: I did manage to look up at the clock while I had a fast ball going. The clock hand was moving. It was nice to get a glimpse of that action. But....

Sounds like the LED has a short. Hopefully Chas will sort you out fairly quickly. Gook Luck waiting for the wiring loom, I am still waiting for one for GBLE since early 2018. Stern do not even respond to their distros if it is too hard.

Good news you do not have the error and can enjoy your topper a little.

maybe when you return a topper put inside a sticker "stern never repaired" if someone else finds it, it was never opened.

I'm in A/V land, and used to inconspicuously mark the inside of faulty equipment, ensuring I got a new replacement. "B" and "C" stock used to really be a thing...

I'm still trading emails with Chas. He asked for another pic. I sent it and await his reply. But I think the culprit is reversed wiring.

This pic the yellow is wired negative.

IMG_3510 (resized).JPG

All the others the yellow wire is wired positive.

I did not pay close attention when I took my first look. I did not know these lamps are polarized.

IMG_3511 (resized).JPG

The lamp itself may not be, but the assembly (PCB) generally is...you're on to something!!!!

Chas replied. I have swapped the wires. And will be reassembling the topper in a little bit.

i wish you luck, i hope this fixed it. I don't understand that all the toppers are around with all this trouble. QA should find something like this.
a door not closing 100% my be some point if discussion, but lights that are not working should be obvious.
There can always some little things be missed or happen later in transport. But this seems to be very disturbing.
I hope this is not a trend but some very bad coincidence.

It’s a shame that Munsters probably has the best integrated topper Stern has done to date but they clearly don’t care about quality control. The Batman topper fits the game perfectly, but the Munsters is an absolute must have.

Kudos to those of you that have fixed what Stern couldn’t be bothered with.

And another Stern of the Union has come and gone with no mention of Munsters code.

Truly embarrassing for Stern. This is clear evidence of the toppers not even being lit up before shipping. Unbelievable.

Mostly people like yourself that do not own a game do most of the complaining.

Here you are again going on about Munsters code. Owners Clubs says it all.

Thank you. The wire resolved my problem. I am working 100% now. I can see how someone soldering some harnesses could make this mistake. I used to be in aircraft parts inspection. Realistically, you don't look at every wire harness coming down the line. You do samplings.

But for the end of the line when it is all together, it needs 100% operational inspection. That would stop this shit. As someone else above noted, these toppers are not being inspected for proper operation before being boxed up. They are traveling on the proverbial wing and a prayer inspection method.

Perhaps someone at Stern crunched some numbers and decided it would be cheaper to roll the dice and assume maybe 5% will not work correctly and that it would be cheaper to avoid the last inspection and just ship as is. And then pay the freight to do the repairs. Or cross their fingers that a bunch of pinballers would be able to fix it themselves.

They came out ahead with me. No final operations inspection cost, self-repair by me, and no extra freight to return and reship.

Relax. jfh is not a troll. He likes the game but wants more code; He is not coming on this thread or the other thread and saying Munsters is a piece of shit. He is not telling any of us that we are idiots for buying one. And he is not saying anything that is untrue; Well, I'm fine with the code but a lot of owners are not.

Cotton, I am glad you have your topper going and repaired

Re non owners posting in owners club threads.. There are other other threads to discuss games, code etc, etc. Out of respect to others we should all respect the Pinside rules. It is very simple.

There are also other threads for the people that are not happy with the code

Thanks cottonm4

I’ve decided that Munsters will most likely be my next (and probably last) Stern game. I’ve got no room in my game room but have identified three possible games to move to make that happen. But only when I’m happy with the code (which is why I keep looking for something from Stern that even hints the rumors are true). And, as much as I hate the topper fiasco, I’ll probably buy one to have before they aren’t available anywhere.

I was really concerned with the pooling when I got my JP. I finally convinced myself to not worry about it and enjoy the game. 1000 games later there are some tiny chips near a few posts and you really wouldn't even notice them. I have a few pooled posts near Kitty on Munsters and I couldn't care less. During the lockdown we were fortunate enough to rent a Batman 66 and I noticed the pooling on there and only a few have chips in the clear near the posts. I know in the other threads they guarantee that every pooled post will eventually chip and ruin your playfield, but after seeing Batman with what has to be over 5 or 6 thousand plays, I don't think it is an issue to worry about. All that being said, what is the best way to touch up those little chips if they do happen so they don't end up spreading if possible?

You will care when those small chips turn into big chips I bet.

Where can I find a Munsters pro NOS playfield ? I emailed stern, they said I have to get it from a distributor. But no one has one listed. Any suggestion would be helpful.

If anyone can get them, Pinball Life can. Give them a call.

Good to see people working through the topper issues....great gizmo that compliments a great game.......

While I always welcome new code for any of my games, it does get tiresome of hearing people trying to "shame" Stern into doing it. Good grief...enough.

Munsters has been such an easy target for haters for so long, yet many love the game. Some of them are unbelievably talented and valuable members of our community. I've got better things to do w my time than trash machines I despise (yes despise). Some just enjoy it....a sort of "vigilante justice" saving us from horrid machines. The Op that started the infamous hate thread couldn't even spell. A great time for all to pile on.

When someone wants to buy a machine for me, then I'll take that opinion seriously. Otherwise, I've got to live with my choices. Very, very glad I chose MunstersLE.

I might have another topper problem... At some point during a game yesterday the clock started spinning. It didn't stop. Not even after the game was over, while the machine was sitting idle, when another game was started. Finally turned the machine off and then today it happened again. Thoughts?

After reading some of your topper challenges, I feel fortunate to get one from the second batch, that is flawless.

Only had to remove Raven‘s “brighter than the sun” light and recess Lilly’s and Eddy’s LEDs because of personal preference.

Great edition to the game play. The best of any companies toppers. No other topper is this well integrated to the game. I never buy toppers because they usually do nothing and add zero to game play.

Munsters is one of my all time favorite machines. Well made and always has that one more game feel. A top 5 imo. Guests love playing it. They always comment, “wow, this game is loaded with stuff everywhere”!

So being that you're "in it".....there is a microswitch that registers when the hand spins by a plastic dowel that is positioned on the backside of the geared wheel. A good chance that it may not be closing contact everytime the dowel goes past it.

It's a normal playfield switch, and like those, may take a simple, minor bend to ensure it is registering every time. Just a guess as it's been awhile since mine's been apart, but remember I had to adjust mine.....swear that thing feels like your working on a mech in the game, not a topper....crazy.....

IF they do, maybe. But if mine see 5000 more plays and they look like the Batman I’ll be glad that I didn’t worry the whole time and just enjoyed the games.

I had the clock hand seizing problem with my topper out of the box but managed to fix it from MK6PIN ‘s write up a while back in this thread.

You wanna talk embarrassing? At least this is an optional accessory.

I still can’t get the #%{*}# Telekenisis Multiball lock working on my brand new Stranger Things Premium, they sent me the wrong UV upgrade kit, and the official shaker kit comes with bolts too short to go through the cab into the tnuts.

I’m 3-3 with their LATEST FLAGSHIP table and accessories.

They have serious logistics problems and this was all pre-covid.

They better get their act together.

LMAO!!!

Sorry but I had too lol.

In all seriousness there have been so many posts on this topper it should have it's own club thread However it's great that there are people like yourself and others who have been helping many folks with their issues but at the toppers price point issues should be far and few in between maybe something like 90/10 but the way it appears now it's like 25/75 with the 25% being the success rate. I really hope they address everyone issues with them as well as drop a much desired content code drop to boot. I'm still holding onto fate here.......

It's healthy to have a laugh like this once in awhile...no apologies needed...I could envision people running in terror from "topper gone wild"....funny stuff!!!

I have no idea how many work or don't out of the second batch, but your #'s might be close.

They seem to be minor in nature, but not everyone wants to take these things apart ( I don't blame them).

I'm really anxious for at least the bug fix/ polish code. The game ( and topper) have things that just have to be sorted. Certainly they have to want to drop it w some added game features, hence the wait.

The game is really just too good to not finish...I'm sure they are aware of this and am certain it will come. Speculating the release is just what it is...speculation. Would serve the game and Stern very well to do this during these terrible times, but won't badger them about it ( I used to awhile back). Suspect they are hurting too, so a pass from me at the moment.

I am experiencing that issue as well. More than once.

Our clock does that too. Thanks very much for the info, very much appreciated!

I am so jealous of your toppers. I love Munsters so much and this topper seems to be the perfect add on. Is there something better than a raven yelling into your face some bad sentences. I love this scenes in the series so much. But I think i would mod raven with some sunglasses this would top the topper

Know this is just an educated guess ( it was the first thing I found on "rev 1" and reported). There is also an interrrupter wheel on the wheel as well, that was interpreted as a time element ( counting the breaks to set the clock correctly).

The clock has its own, metal geared assembly ( as I'm sure you've seen) so this whole thing is legit.

There definitely needs to be a parts breakdown w description/ part#, and schematic provided in documentation at some point.

It's actually built quite well, but can see the need to service it down the road as with the rest of the machine ( coil, sleeve, motor, switch, etc.). Things will wear out or fail like all things pinball.

Munsters has 2 amazing toys that aren't on the main pf .....

Geez, to get in and adjust that means I have to remove the topper and put it on the workbench; Again.

Actually, though, I don't mind just having it spinning,. At least, when I look up it is doing something.

Ideally, you clean the chipped area. Lightly sand it just a little bit, if you can. You would a very small amount of the 2-part clear paint and dab a little clear on the chipped area. If you are good at touch ups and the area is sort of hidden you can probably just stop at that point. Otherwise you might and to lightly sand and polish your touch up.

I can't much remember, but they were hard to remove the first time, now i have done it so often they move good.
With what tool are you trying to unscrew them?

just opened had a look. 4.5 to 5.0 i have the impression both are not working 100%. The head is hard to grip.
Maybe try with a "plier" i a not sure if this is the right word. But only if you can get a good grip to get it loose.

take a soldering iron and heat the other end where the threads come thru

don't forget to put something on legs to dampen vibrations. i did some plastic hot glue but others suggested different things.

P1110884 (resized).jpg

I intend to pull our topper apart again next time we clean and service out machine. There is quite a lot going on inside the raven clock. Great topper!