(Topic ID: 233776)

1313 Mockingbird Lane ~ MUNSTERS Club.

By Monte

5 years ago


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There are 11,836 posts in this topic. You are on page 164 of 237.
#8151 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Before I removed mine to see what was happening with my dead light, when I pushed on the right flipper, the clock went into rotation and would keep rotating until I released the flipper.

My Raven was loud. I would be busy playing and it would start popping. Hearing it was the way I knew it was working.

As noted above, my clock would keep spinning until I released the flipper. It made me feel like I was playing Scare Stiff when I was trying to stop the spinning spider. That kind of action.

EDIT: I'm thinking that a little bit of lubricant placed the Raven's door hinge might not be a bad idea for long term health of the door hinge.

ahh..that kind of constant clock movement isn't right. Again though, should only happen in attract mode ( maybe they were going to leave it for an attract thing, like audio clips..can't remember what I was told honestly.

I put a bit of powdered graphite on the door hinge..not sure if it matters or not, but couldn't hurt ( unlike coil sleeves)

#8152 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I don't know how hard it is to set that rod correctly. I'll have to open the unit up and take a look.
I have pooling around one post only. The rest of my play field is 100%.

Like MK6PIN has stated it is pretty straight forward. You will have to remove the rear portion of the topper where all the LED lamp boards are mounted for the characters (which you already have done since you have an LED out) then remove the roof panels with a Phillips screw driver to gain access to the raven mechanism. Once it is exposed you need a 5/16 nut driver to remove the raven mechanism. There is also a two pin plug to disconnect. You have to remove it because the screw that holds the rod at the rear is screwed in from underneath and there is no way to reach it without removing the mechanisms. While you have the mechanism out check for movement and see if anything is binding. My door hinge was super tight and I had to buff a burr off of it with a Dremel tool then lightly oiled the hinge pin. It works perfectly now. I also switched the spring out for a lighter flipper return spring which allowed me to go with a weaker coil (one for a Gottlieb chime) as the coil that is in there now is too powerful and slams so violently that the plunger bounces back a little bit and does not allow the door to stay open completely. I learned this after taking a slow motion video of what was going on and as to why the door was not staying open all the way. One other flaw that I found was the right side of the steel edge where the nylon glide rides on underneath Raven the front corner had a sharp burr and was digging into the nylon glide and not allowing Raven to return consistently. I buffed that corner smooth and everything works like butter now.
1CDA5F2A-79E4-45EF-8FD4-7E01AA5A9BAD (resized).jpeg1CDA5F2A-79E4-45EF-8FD4-7E01AA5A9BAD (resized).jpeg4BC530F7-DBA7-46F8-962F-740E01E98538 (resized).png4BC530F7-DBA7-46F8-962F-740E01E98538 (resized).png630366F1-CB03-4718-B7AF-7A90476577E7 (resized).png630366F1-CB03-4718-B7AF-7A90476577E7 (resized).pngAFE8D86B-6E75-4C47-9B21-F1EB9C7DBEBE (resized).pngAFE8D86B-6E75-4C47-9B21-F1EB9C7DBEBE (resized).pngB0FB5092-3BF7-439E-88A7-8F3978458ACB (resized).jpegB0FB5092-3BF7-439E-88A7-8F3978458ACB (resized).jpegB475AFF3-A4F1-4D67-9AE1-AA9E49B6DBEE (resized).pngB475AFF3-A4F1-4D67-9AE1-AA9E49B6DBEE (resized).png

#8153 3 years ago

A Gottlieb coil???

#8154 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

What’s the thing to do on pooling.. leave as is, or will it get worse? Feels pretty hard, and my LE (299) I got when it was released, so about 2yrs ago now

I'd at least report it to Stern, so it's on the record. Include the picture(s) too.

#8155 3 years ago
Quoted from johnnypinball:

Like MK6PIN has stated it is pretty straight forward. You will have to remove the rear portion of the topper where all the LED lamp boards are mounted for the characters (which you already have done since you have an LED out) then remove the roof panels with a Phillips screw driver to gain access to the raven mechanism. Once it is exposed you need a 5/16 nut driver to remove the raven mechanism. There is also a two pin plug to disconnect. You have to remove it because the screw that holds the rod at the rear is screwed in from underneath and there is no way to reach it without removing the mechanisms. While you have the mechanism out check for movement and see if anything is binding. My door hinge was super tight and I had to buff a bur off of it with a Dremel tool then lightly oiled the hinge pin. It works perfectly now. I also switched the spring out for a lighter flipper return spring which allowed me to go with a weaker coil (one for a Gottlieb chime) as the coil that is in there now is too powerful and slams so violently that the plunger bounces back a little bit and does not allow the door to stay open completely. I learned this after taking a slow motion video of what was going on and as to why the door was not staying open all the way. One other flaw that I found was the right side of the steel edge where the nylon glide rides on underneath Raven the front corner had a sharp burner and was digging into the nylon glide and not allowing Raven to return consistently. I buffed that corner smooth and everything works like butter now.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

nice job and pics!!! Like your coil/ spring idea..
mine slams hard, but his head stays fully extended so I may or may not try that.

The biggest thing I can suggest for anyone- don't try to work on the topper while it's on the game ( ask me how I know), except maybe if you're experimenting w different color bulbs for Raven.

Everything is easy to access but alot of stuff going on up. Too much to screw around w it up there.

Such an amazing toy...I know they could have done better ( clock will never keep accurate time like TZ) but alot packed in there....

#8156 3 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

nice job and pics!!! Like your coil/ spring idea..
mine slams hard, but his head stays fully extended so I may or may not try that.
The biggest thing I can suggest for anyone- don't try to work on the topper while it's on the game ( ask me how I know), except maybe if you're experimenting w different color bulbs for Raven.
Everything is easy to access but alot of stuff going on up. Too much to screw around w it up there.

Thanks! Yes it does work a lot smoother with the spring positioning off to the side as it has a better pull with less binding. But if yours is working and extending fully I probably wouldn’t mess with it. And yes definitely take the topper off of the machine before working on it!!!

#8157 3 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

nice job and pics!!! Like your coil/ spring idea..
mine slams hard, but his head stays fully extended so I may or may not try that.
The biggest thing I can suggest for anyone- don't try to work on the topper while it's on the game ( ask me how I know), except maybe if you're experimenting w different color bulbs for Raven.
Everything is easy to access but alot of stuff going on up. Too much to screw around w it up there.
Such an amazing toy...I know they could have done better ( clock will never keep accurate time like TZ) but alot packed in there....

I like a good story, how do you know?

#8158 3 years ago
Quoted from dashv:

I like a good story, how do you know?

lol...let's just say I was working on a first generation version, e-mailing w the team @ Stern in semi-real time, and was doing some live testing of the clock mech...nothing damaged on the machine, but a wrench slip caused quite a disruption (explosion) of the clock movement...don't think I ever found all those pieces....massive profanity ensued.....

#8159 3 years ago

Guys. Any ideas on my topper problem??? Or did I just get a dud...

20200501_191738 (resized).jpg20200501_191738 (resized).jpg
#8160 3 years ago
Quoted from finplanner69:

Guys. Any ideas on my topper problem??? Or did I just get a dud...
[quoted image]

ugh...I'd check all connections at the board ( again taking the topper off the game...really not that hard) then reinstall.

maybe not sending something due to a loose connection. If that doesn't work, back in the box and call Chas...I'd worry about leaving it connected too long like that...don't want to damage other boards..good luck

#8161 3 years ago

That’s going to be a nightmare if a node board fails. They can say topper didn’t cause it. We’ll sell you a new one.

#8162 3 years ago

Munster fans I need some info please, I have the chance to pick up a great deal on an LE and although I’ve played quite abit on a pro I’m curious how the prem/le plays especially on newer code.

I know there was a mode where you had to play both playfields at the same time, is that still the case with newer code? And are there any modes that switch between upper and lower playfields? Like a shot to both ramps needed then shoot the scoop to switch to the lower make the required shots down there and then back up to the top?

Overall how is the current code compared to the older code? Thanks

#8163 3 years ago
Quoted from J85M:

And are there any modes that switch between upper and lower playfields? Like a shot to both ramps needed then shoot the scoop to switch to the lower make the required shots down there and then back up to the top?

No.

Quoted from J85M:

I know there was a mode where you had to play both playfields at the same time, is that still the case with newer code?

Yes. Munster Madness I is like this.

#8164 3 years ago

I would play a premium or le first there seems to be a split on Munster fans if the basement makes the game or ruins the game.

#8165 3 years ago

Apparently Munsters is Stern's game of the week. Wouldn't it be nice if they gave it some love lol

stern (resized).pngstern (resized).png
#8166 3 years ago
Quoted from C0untDeM0net:

Apparently Munsters is Stern's game of the week. Wouldn't it be nice if they gave it some love lol[quoted image]

They apparently are...

If only the game sucked as bad as it's made out to be around here sometimes...

#8167 3 years ago
Quoted from johnnypinball:

Like MK6PIN has stated it is pretty straight forward. You will have to remove the rear portion of the topper where all the LED lamp boards are mounted for the characters (which you already have done since you have an LED out) then remove the roof panels with a Phillips screw driver to gain access to the raven mechanism. Once it is exposed you need a 5/16 nut driver to remove the raven mechanism. There is also a two pin plug to disconnect. You have to remove it because the screw that holds the rod at the rear is screwed in from underneath and there is no way to reach it without removing the mechanisms. While you have the mechanism out check for movement and see if anything is binding. My door hinge was super tight and I had to buff a burr off of it with a Dremel tool then lightly oiled the hinge pin. It works perfectly now. I also switched the spring out for a lighter flipper return spring which allowed me to go with a weaker coil (one for a Gottlieb chime) as the coil that is in there now is too powerful and slams so violently that the plunger bounces back a little bit and does not allow the door to stay open completely. I learned this after taking a slow motion video of what was going on and as to why the door was not staying open all the way. One other flaw that I found was the right side of the steel edge where the nylon glide rides on underneath Raven the front corner had a sharp burr and was digging into the nylon glide and not allowing Raven to return consistently. I buffed that corner smooth and everything works like butter now.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I just got through taking mine apart and fixing the door rod. I have pics, too.

Everything is plastic except for the lower plate. It is metal with screw studs welded on.

IMG_3496 (resized).JPGIMG_3496 (resized).JPG

It works best if you remove all 4 faces from the topper. This will give you better access to some of the attachment nuts on the base and the plastics for the clock. The 4 plastics that make up the clock housing are directional; Left and Right. They will only go back on one way.

IMG_3482 (resized).JPGIMG_3482 (resized).JPG

Remove the big plastic light board on the back for better access for removing the clock. The clock hand is held one with one small screw. DON'T LOSE that screw.

The clock is attached to the base with three lock nuts. There are also two wire harnesses that need disconnected.

IMG_3484 (resized).JPGIMG_3484 (resized).JPG

IMG_3488 (resized).JPGIMG_3488 (resized).JPG

Once the clock is removed the raven can be accessed. Three nuts and two harness connectors.

IMG_3489 (resized).JPGIMG_3489 (resized).JPG

There is a small angle bracket that comes away with Raven. Don't forget to put it back on.

IMG_3490 (resized).JPGIMG_3490 (resized).JPG

The door actuator rod is held on with two screws---AND TWO SPACERS. Don't lose them. After I rotated the rod, it door seemed a little loose. I pushed down on the rod a little bit to tighten it up. But I do like your spring idea and may do that before I remount the topper.

IMG_3492 (resized).JPGIMG_3492 (resized).JPG

IMG_3493 (resized).JPGIMG_3493 (resized).JPG

Mine has Stern coil

IMG_3490 (resized).JPGIMG_3490 (resized).JPG

When reattaching the 4 faces there is an easy way and a hard way. The easy way is mount Lily's face first then screw on the 2 locknuts just loosely. Ley her face lean forward. Then set Herman's face and loosely screw on the two nuts for his face. Now tighten Herman's face down. Then go for Lily. Repeat for the other side.

#8168 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I just got through taking mine apart and fixing the door rod. I have pics, too.
Everything is plastic except for the lower plate. It is metal with screw studs welded on.

I give up

#8169 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I just got through taking mine apart and fixing the door rod. I have pics, too.
Everything is plastic except for the lower plate. It is metal with screw studs welded on.
[quoted image]
It works best if you remove all 4 faces from the topper. This will give you better access to some of the attachment nuts on the base and the plastics for the clock. The 4 plastics that make up the clock housing are directional; Left and Right. They will only go back on one way.
[quoted image]
Remove the big plastic light board on the back for better access for removing the clock. The clock hand is held one with one small screw. DON'T LOSE that screw.
The clock is attached to the base with three lock nuts. There are also two wire harnesses that need disconnected.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Once the clock is removed the raven can be accessed. Three nuts and to harness connectors.
[quoted image]
There is a small angle bracket that comes away with Raven. Don't forget to put it back on.
[quoted image]
The door actuator rod is held on with two screws---AND TWO SPACERS. Don't lose them. After I rotated the rod, it door seemed a little loose. I pushed down on the rod a little bit to tighten it up. But I do like your spring idea wand with do that before I remount the topper.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Mine has Stern coil
[quoted image]
When reattaching the 4 faces there is an easy way and a hard way. The easy way is mount Lily's face first then screw on the 2 locknuts just loosely. Ley her face lean forward. Then set Herman's face and loosely screw on the two nuts for his face. Now tighten Herman's face down. Then go for Lily. Repeat for the other side.

Hey Cottonm4 don’t forget to buff the rough corner smooth with a sanding drum on your dremel. If you look closely the way they stamped that corner it has sharp edges on it. You can feel it with your finger.

3D9D0470-1DF2-4569-B089-FD188273B24B (resized).jpeg3D9D0470-1DF2-4569-B089-FD188273B24B (resized).jpeg70A7560A-F2AC-48BC-A915-6A0884B4DCAA (resized).png70A7560A-F2AC-48BC-A915-6A0884B4DCAA (resized).png
#8170 3 years ago

Wow - Stern continues to fail miserably on this topper - dang that is shit quality if you have to go this far for new item.

You would think with the first round being a major disaster they would have improved quality.

Is no one even looking at these before they go out the door?

Stern where are you? Are you there? Are you listening to this?

Just have to say - WOW!

#8171 3 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

ugh...I'd check all connections at the board ( again taking the topper off the game...really not that hard) then reinstall.
maybe not sending something due to a loose connection. If that doesn't work, back in the box and call Chas...I'd worry about leaving it connected too long like that...don't want to damage other boards..good luck

I did that last night with no improvement so I took it off and left it off and emailed Chas. So great minds. open to any other ideas. Hate the thought of being at the back of the line again waiting for a good one.

#8172 3 years ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

Wow - Stern continues to fail miserably on this topper - dang that is shit quality if you have to go this far for new item.
You would think with the first round being a major disaster they would have improved quality.
Is no one even looking at these before they go out the door?
Stern where are you? Are you there? Are you listening to this?
Just have to say - WOW!

I am still not convinced this is 2nd round... all cooresondence with Stern says end of May...

#8173 3 years ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

Is no one even looking at these before they go out the door?

Stern where are you? Are you there? Are you listening to this?

The new QA director checks everything.
Casper, the friendly ghost.

2 year old children listen to their parents more than Stern listens to us.
Last 2 code updates are a total disgrace.

#8174 3 years ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

I am still not convinced this is 2nd round... all cooresondence with Stern says end of May...

In my email to Chas I mentioned that Classic Game Rooms said this was second run so we will see. I tend to think it is 2nd Gen because everyone was out of stock and then Stern sent some out to over the last couple of weeks to fill backorder with Cointaker etc. I can't imagine they were sending out first runs that they had been sitting on forever. Who knows. It is definitely hit and miss, and I'm bummed mine has problems. It light up and all, but can't test it fully with this overcurrent error popping up right off the bat.

In the meantime the game is kicking my butt today!

#8175 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I just got through taking mine apart and fixing the door rod. I have pics, too.
Everything is plastic except for the lower plate. It is metal with screw studs welded on.
[quoted image]
It works best if you remove all 4 faces from the topper. This will give you better access to some of the attachment nuts on the base and the plastics for the clock. The 4 plastics that make up the clock housing are directional; Left and Right. They will only go back on one way.
[quoted image]
Remove the big plastic light board on the back for better access for removing the clock. The clock hand is held one with one small screw. DON'T LOSE that screw.
The clock is attached to the base with three lock nuts. There are also two wire harnesses that need disconnected.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Once the clock is removed the raven can be accessed. Three nuts and to harness connectors.
[quoted image]
There is a small angle bracket that comes away with Raven. Don't forget to put it back on.
[quoted image]
The door actuator rod is held on with two screws---AND TWO SPACERS. Don't lose them. After I rotated the rod, it door seemed a little loose. I pushed down on the rod a little bit to tighten it up. But I do like your spring idea wand with do that before I remount the topper.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Mine has Stern coil
[quoted image]
When reattaching the 4 faces there is an easy way and a hard way. The easy way is mount Lily's face first then screw on the 2 locknuts just loosely. Ley her face lean forward. Then set Herman's face and loosely screw on the two nuts for his face. Now tighten Herman's face down. Then go for Lily. Repeat for the other side.

Connonm it is a shame that you have to completly pull your topper apart to get it working correctly. We had to do the same and so did a few others. Upside is you will be happy with it when you get it going. We love ours and think it is right up therr with AFMrLE as ome of the best toppers ever.

Check the continunity on the wires for the Lily light and you will probably get that going also.

Thanks for the info and photos.

Keep smiling!

#8176 3 years ago
Quoted from finplanner69:

In my email to Chas I mentioned that Classic Game Rooms said this was second run so we will see. I tend to think it is 2nd Gen because everyone was out of stock and then Stern sent some out to over the last couple of weeks to fill backorder with Cointaker etc. I can't imagine they were sending out first runs that they had been sitting on forever. Who knows. It is definitely hit and miss, and I'm bummed mine has problems. It light up and all, but can't test it fully with this overcurrent error popping up right off the bat.
In the meantime the game is kicking my butt today!

Thats my concern....how did Stern send them out....when they are under lockdown....and have been.. I hope your right...

#8178 3 years ago
Quoted from johnnypinball:

Hey Cottonm4 don’t forget to buff the rough corner smooth with a sanding drum on your dremel. If you look closely the way they stamped that corner it has sharp edges on it. You can feel it with your finger.[quoted image][quoted image]

Thank you. I see what you are speaking of but I am already back together.

I also reseated all my wiring when I had it apart. I'll plug back in later tonight and see if this makes a difference with the light. but I'm not doing anything with the light until Chad gets back to work on Monday.

#8179 3 years ago
Quoted from J85M:

Munster fans I need some info please, I have the chance to pick up a great deal on an LE and although I’ve played quite abit on a pro I’m curious how the prem/le plays especially on newer code.
I know there was a mode where you had to play both playfields at the same time, is that still the case with newer code? And are there any modes that switch between upper and lower playfields? Like a shot to both ramps needed then shoot the scoop to switch to the lower make the required shots down there and then back up to the top?
Overall how is the current code compared to the older code? Thanks

The code hasn't really changed since it was released, mainly some bug fixes.

#8180 3 years ago
Quoted from JMCFAN:

Thats my concern....how did Stern send them out....when they are under lockdown....and have been.. I hope your right...

They are not completely on lock down. Chas said they are still working just not as much. Got a package directly from them a few days ago with update parts.

#8181 3 years ago
Quoted from finplanner69:

They are not completely on lock down. Chas said they are still working just not as much. Got a package directly from them a few days ago with update parts.

Just going by what I was told....

Keith,

Unfortunately Stern is still on mandatory Shutdown and production is at a halt. Please check back with us last week in May for an update.

Thank you,
Pablo Padilla
Stern Pinball Tech Support
800 542-5377

#8182 3 years ago

I've had parts delivered for my Stranger Things and Munsters pins. Just got some today actually. But anything that would require manufacturing has been "backordered" so they say. So you might luck out if they have parts in stock.

#8183 3 years ago

Mail Call yesterday

Cliff’s Munsters Scoop also Wonka LE ejects

9944A687-034E-4A76-A501-A2A539E5FE50 (resized).jpeg9944A687-034E-4A76-A501-A2A539E5FE50 (resized).jpeg
#8184 3 years ago

All good cottonm4 .....think I was suffering from "TSD" (Topper Stress Disorder) yesterday, lol...and heard "it's all plastic" in description one too many times in the thread. I hate people are having problems still....no excuse.

Thanks for the pics and hope you get yours sorted (I really think you might be very close).

#8185 3 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

All good cottonm4 .....think I was suffering from "TSD" (Topper Stress Disorder) yesterday, lol...and heard "it's all plastic" in description one too many times in the thread. I hate people are having problems still....no excuse.
Thanks for the pics and hope you get yours sorted (I really think you might be very close).

Hopefully , I will get to communicate with Chas tomorrow. Chuckwurt has the right idea: swap 2 lights and isolate the problem to a defective light. If the problem follows the light then the problem is solved. If the problem remains then something deeper in the controller circuit board will be suspect. I am hoping that whatever part(s) is the culprit that Stern will trust me to do the R & R. I don't want the hassle and wait of having to send the topper back.

And I do need to ask Chas how the clock is supposed to behave.

#8186 3 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

All good cottonm4 .....think I was suffering from "TSD" (Topper Stress Disorder) yesterday, lol...and heard "it's all plastic" in description one too many times in the thread. I hate people are having problems still....no excuse.
Thanks for the pics and hope you get yours sorted (I really think you might be very close).

As I was taking mine apart to check the wiring, I told hubby that this sure is a unique hobby. I can't imagine another circumstance where I would buy something new for $500 and then immediately take it apart to see if I could fix it.

#8187 3 years ago
Quoted from finplanner69:

As I was taking mine apart to check the wiring, I told hubby that this sure is a unique hobby. I can't imagine another circumstance where I would buy something new for $500 and then immediately take it apart to see if I could fix it.

Very true...pinball machines and all the gizmos that come with them ....a unique experience for sure. I'm truly fascinated with them, and enjoy tinkering/ working on them ( mostly) as much as playing ......

#8188 3 years ago
Quoted from finplanner69:

As I was taking mine apart to check the wiring, I told hubby that this sure is a unique hobby. I can't imagine another circumstance where I would buy something new for $500 and then immediately take it apart to see if I could fix it.

And still feel happy for the privilege .

It is almost like buying a Heathkit radio from the 60s.

#8189 3 years ago

I have plugged my topper back in for testing after I fixed Raven yesterday.

When I first turned the pin on, nothing worked except to the lights. My clock did not work with pushing the right flipper. It was like oh no, what did I break. But I turned the pin off and back on and things were fixed. Sort of.

1) Before I took the topper apart , when I pushed the right flipper the clock went on a continuous counter-clock wise rotation. Now, it rotates clockwise and only moves one number at a time, as others have described.

2 ) I should have left Raven alone. Before I rotated the door rod, Raven opened all the way up. And now that I changed the rod, Raven does not open up all the way. (sigh). All I did was rotate that rod.

During play (yes , you can still play with the topper sitting on your play field glass) Raven does come out and speak. But I do not see the clock doing anything.

3) During attract mode, Raven popped out and said "sing it Charlie, sing it.

IMG_3499 (resized).JPGIMG_3499 (resized).JPG

#8190 3 years ago

I took my topper apart too
Raven too doesn’t open all the way... coil is too strong door bounces back.
Another thing.. I don’t remember seeing a guide on the raven ( cottonm4 ) johnnypinball did yours have a guide that sandwiches the nylon runner?

0598F8D5-5BF6-4C07-9C58-471B8842CD27 (resized).jpeg0598F8D5-5BF6-4C07-9C58-471B8842CD27 (resized).jpeg
#8191 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

I took my topper apart too
Raven too doesn’t open all the way... coil is too strong door bounces back.
Another thing.. I don’t remember seeing a guide on the raven ( cottonm4 ) johnnypinball did yours have a guide that sandwiches the nylon runner?
[quoted image]

Yes. It is this metal angle bracket. I was not paying attention to the job it did. Now I know.

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#8192 3 years ago

Wow I want a topper but I am afraid now with all the mess, part of me says get the topper before they are gone for good and part of me says stay away nothing but problems for the price! I am shocked in the quality of work Stern puts into these. They should be ashamed and embarrassed at this and we should stop buying into their Junk! Everyone that has a topper should email them and let them know their frustration with this product. I can’t understand how they can sell something that doesn’t work, if a retail store sold something from a manufacturer that didn’t work they would pull the product from the shelves and give refunds. No one should buy a topper and have to do work in order to make it work right plus taking the risk of further damaging the topper. Horrible Quality control and flat out wrong!

#8193 3 years ago
Quoted from TonyScoots:

Wow I want a topper but I am afraid now with all the mess, part of me says get the topper before they are gone for good and part of me says stay away nothing but problems for the price! I am shocked in the quality of work Stern puts into these. They should be ashamed and embarrassed at this and we should stop buying into their Junk! Everyone that has a topper should email them and let them know their frustration with this product. I can’t understand how they can sell something that doesn’t work, if a retail store sold something from a manufacturer that didn’t work they would pull the product from the shelves and give refunds. No one should buy a topper and have to do work in order to make it work right plus taking the risk of further damaging the topper. Horrible Quality control and flat out wrong!

Exactly - are you guys emailing Stern (forget the distributor at this point). Email please!

Don’t do it - wait to buy. Buying one now is still a gamble until better more reliable integration is done (of course that requires more code). Also, the level to which these toppers have been torn down is crazy. Long term reliability is very questionable.

#8194 3 years ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

Long term reliability is very questionable.

I think in those terms about how long this clock will last. But I'm still trying to figure out what it is supposed to do.

#8195 3 years ago

I thought the topper issues were a thing of the past, good God. I swear sterns quality just f*cking sucks now days. I want a JP Premium and a Evira 3 so bad that I cant stand it but I'm just afraid to buy from them anymore.

#8196 3 years ago

Could a few fellow topper owners possibly take the roof off the cookoo clock and see if they have the metal bracket for which I am missing..

I have emailed Chas @ stern to ask if it is a vital piece.. I re-assembled the topper.. I’m sure there wasn’t a piece that goes the other side of the nylon runner...

#8197 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

Could a few fellow topper owners possibly take the roof off the cookoo clock and see if they have the metal bracket for which I am missing..
I have emailed Chas @ stern to ask if it is a vital piece.. I re-assembled the topper.. I’m sure there wasn’t a piece that goes the other side of the nylon runner...

I could see where a new hire on the assembly line forgot to install one in your topper.

#8198 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

I could see where a new hire on the assembly line forgot to install one in your topper.

Or even a employee who has been there for a long time that just doesn't give a shit. We got plenty of those guys where I work.

#8199 3 years ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

Exactly - are you guys emailing Stern (forget the distributor at this point). Email please!
Don’t do it - wait to buy. Buying one now is still a gamble until better more reliable integration is done (of course that requires more code). Also, the level to which these toppers have been torn down is crazy. Long term reliability is very questionable.

Vast majority of this statement can apply to pinball in general at the moment. The topper is a complicated toy, as is the machine. QC seems to be hitting record lows across ALL manufacturers (not just Stern). Not defending them....just truth.

I'm not a fan of anyone having to work on anything beyond basic service and maintenance, but definitely becoming the norm, as prices keep going up.

There is no reason some of these toppers should have to be dismantled this far ......plug it in...doesn't work?....box it up and send it back. Opening and repairing some of these things isn't for everyone (nor should it be). More problems can be caused than what existed prior. This thing is not just laser-etched plexi w lights.....

Again, not defending Stern in the least, but don't drink the kool-aid that it's only in their wheelhouse. They put out exponentially more games than "#2"...I just hope they both survive all this crap going on outside the "pinwalls".

Now, more than ever, I'm grateful to have this hobby. The worst a pin can throw at me is better than my best day at work currently.

Volunteered to take my "gen1" apart, got my "gen2", couple minor adjustments, and it's been very reliable...just waiting on code to fix some bugs...

The topper is cool and hope the minor issues can be taken care of, along with a true bug fix code drop soon....

(off the soapbox)........be safe out there.....

#8200 3 years ago

cottonm4 what does that part do?

In your opinion, should I use the topper without it?

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