Quoted from Thunderbird:

I’ve got Batman 66 sitting right next to Munsters and to me they are a pair. Contemporary shows of the same era. Both well written comedy and skillful actors timing to pull it all off.
Batman’s code excels in every way. Give Munsters similar software treatment and it may overtake Batman, because of everything else going for Munsters, although Batman is a top tier game. When Munsters gets the deserved show material treatment, they’ll be tied imo.

Quoted from Squizz:

Are you for real? BM66 blows munsters code in every way.
Even an old Bally-Williams AFM has better code.
I'm just hope that the inside rumors are correct, and that we will see a massive update.

Quoted from sulli10:

My point was that Munsters is getting far more play right now because it is more fun.

Quoted from Squizz:

Well it wouldn't be from advanced players tbh, as the code as it stands is boring.
let's be honest! Reason why it's still for sale everywhere.
This is my opinion too. Munsters sitting here collecting dust atm.
Everyone Playing JPLE here...
But each to their own.

Quoted from cpr9999:

Your probably right on advanced players and we do need to see more code and theme integration.
With that said I would be 70% or more people are no where near advanced. Heck in my league 90% are not advanced. So they will never see the 3 levels of Munster Madness for example.
In addition, it is a very approachable machine, which makes the average player come back. More theme and code advancements will suck in the remaining advanced players.
Time will tell...

Quoted from Who-Dey:

just spray the cleaner on there and wipe it off with a micro fiber rag.

Quoted from cottonm4:

This needs some clarification, I think. The LE models have the anti-glare glass. I was under the impression that you use no cleaners, other than water, on an anti-glass glass.
Please correct me if I am wrong.

Quoted from cottonm4:

This needs some clarification, I think. The LE models have the anti-glare glass. I was under the impression that you use no cleaners, other than water, on an anti-glass glass.
Please correct me if I am wrong.

Quoted from cottonm4:

This needs some clarification, I think. The LE models have the anti-glare glass. I was under the impression that you use no cleaners, other than water, on an anti-glass glass.
Please correct me if I am wrong.

Quoted from Thunderbird:

My experience on lower playfield glass is: once I changed flipper rubber to Titan silicone (and all the other rubber in the lower PF to Titans), no more dust clouding the lower PF glass at all. Stayed clean from that point onward. All the dust was coming from the flipper rubber. I also vacuumed the whole lower PF to ensure no dust remained. Problem solved.

Quoted from finplanner69:

I was just going to ask if switching to titan would solve the dust problem! Great minds. I think I'll just replace everything in the machine with new titans since I think it is all the original rubbers. Now to decide on colors.....

Quoted from MK6PIN:

The dust haze happens on the inside of the window. You can open any of you're games, and you'll notice it if you raise the pf...lots of mechs down there working away. As they wear, the dust follows ( like rubbers on top side).
I clean both sides of the window w a new microfiber cloth to avoid scratching. Just spray it on and wipe it off like cleaning glass.
Though the mini playfield is super easy to take out ( 4 screws and a couple wiring connections) I take the plastic off from the top to clean. Alot easier than doing it while still attached to the playfield.
Alignment really not as bad as some state, just make sure you're using a quality torx T10 driver, not an offbrand which may not fit exactly. Window drops in place, don't go crazy on tightening, and use a straightedge to make sure it's flush w playfield ( I just use my finger to feel for a ridge).
Happy cleaning!!!

Quoted from SBrothers:

My concern with removing and reinstalling the window over and over is that you will bore out the wood a bit each time you tighten the screws back in. Ultimately leading to stripped screw holes in the playfield.
Removing from the underside of the playfield you are dealing with nuts on bolts (metal to metal). Much more durable over the long haul in my humble opinion.

Quoted from MK6PIN:

Window screws are machine thread into an inserted nut, not a wood screw...

Quoted from MK6PIN:

Alignment really not as bad as some state, just make sure you're using a quality torx T10 driver, not an offbrand which may not fit exactly. Window drops in place, don't go crazy on tightening, and use a straightedge to make sure it's flush w playfield ( I just use my finger to feel for a ridge).
Happy cleaning!!!

Quoted from djWHEAT:

Which version do you have? I have a Munsters B&W Premium, and the LPF window has phillips screws on mine, seemed pretty easy to level and ensure it was set. Now I'm curious as to why that's different!

Quoted from djWHEAT:

Which version do you have? I have a Munsters B&W Premium, and the LPF window has phillips screws on mine, seemed pretty easy to level and ensure it was set. Now I'm curious as to why that's different!

Quoted from djWHEAT:

Which version do you have? I have a Munsters B&W Premium, and the LPF window has phillips screws on mine, seemed pretty easy to level and ensure it was set. Now I'm curious as to why that's different!

Quoted from MK6PIN:

Never seen Phillips on the window (?) Torx T10 on mine.

Quoted from finplanner69:

Regarding the LPF glass (plastic) from Chas: just clean and polish as you do the rest of the playfield.
Now, if my 70 year old handicapped father would stop getting the ball stuck in the LPF in the worst places! Had to take the playfield off today just to unstick this sucker.[quoted image]

Quoted from Who-Dey:

Where is it getting stuck at?

Quoted from finplanner69:

Regarding the LPF glass (plastic) from Chas: just clean and polish as you do the rest of the playfield.
Now, if my 70 year old handicapped father would stop getting the ball stuck in the LPF in the worst places! Had to take the playfield off today just to unstick this sucker.[quoted image]

Quoted from Rum-Z:

You can see the ball stuck right in the crotch of the right lower playfield ramp by the switch. It's too early, LOL... I couldn't think of a better term than "crotch".

Quoted from Rum-Z:

You can see the ball stuck right in the crotch of the right lower playfield ramp by the switch. It's too early, LOL... I couldn't think of a better term than "crotch".

Quoted from Slapfighter:

Here my solution for avoid stucking balls in this place. And no airball can hit the opto behind too.
[quoted image]

Quoted from finplanner69:

So I'm a noob...so I'm guessing here...longer screw/post and a rubber sleeve??? Would you be so kind as to tell me the exact parts I need to get to do this fix because it got stuck there again today.

Quoted from Rum-Z:

You can see the ball stuck right in the crotch of the right lower playfield ramp by the switch. It's too early, LOL... I couldn't think of a better term than "crotch".

Quoted from Kiwipinhead:

You would think the game code would compensate for a lost ball..

Quoted from finplanner69:

So I'm a noob...so I'm guessing here...longer screw/post and a rubber sleeve??? Would you be so kind as to tell me the exact parts I need to get to do this fix because it got stuck there again today.

Quoted from Pinhead1982:

Hi
Would the pinsiders who have made a 3D printed solution for the Herman rail be willing to send the CAD? Or print one and send it to me here in UK?
Noticed my rail is starting to bend in.
Obviously willing to pay
Thanks

Quoted from Pinhead1982:

Hi
Would the pinsiders who have made a 3D printed solution for the Herman rail be willing to send the CAD? Or print one and send it to me here in UK?
Noticed my rail is starting to bend in.
Obviously willing to pay
Thanks

Quoted from BelleHall:

My premium has a vertical post there to prevent that.[quoted image]

Quoted from TonyScoots:

I can print and paint then if anyone would like one! I say $15 shipped sounds good
Please pm me if interested
I can also paint them gray or black for the B/W[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from cottonm4:

It all happened on Ball 3. My last best high score was 199 million.
Code or no code. This pin still kicks !
[quoted image]

Quoted from Who-Dey:

Nice game!

Quoted from cottonm4:

It was wild, man. With my death grip on the apron my wrists were starting to burn

Quoted from BelleHall:

My premium has a vertical post there to prevent that.[quoted image]

Quoted from mbwalker:

Hey Guys (and any Gals),
Need a small favor from my fellow Munsters friends.
I have some dings in the bottom of my Pro cabinet (front - no, I didn't do it). Too busy right now to bondo and re-decal properly. But until then I'd like to at least print something, attach it to some backer material, and fit it in there so it looks a bit better. Can someone snap 2 or 3 high res pics so I have the correct artwork to fill with? Might be better w/a flash or in sunlight so the color is a closer match.
If so, reach out w/a PM.
Thanks ahead of time,
Mark[quoted image]

Quoted from finplanner69:

Ouch! I don't have a pro or would be happy to help. Is the person that did do it still alive?

Quoted from Squizz:

Contact stern and purchase a new decal

Quoted from mbwalker:

Hey Guys (and any Gals),
Need a small favor from my fellow Munsters friends.
I have some dings in the bottom of my Pro cabinet (front - no, I didn't do it). Too busy right now to bondo and re-decal properly. But until then I'd like to at least print something, attach it to some backer material, and fit it in there so it looks a bit better. Can someone snap 2 or 3 high res pics so I have the correct artwork to fill with? Might be better w/a flash or in sunlight so the color is a closer match.
If so, reach out w/a PM.
Thanks ahead of time,
Mark[quoted image]