I received my 3d printed rail support and got it installed. Thank you cabal & mkk629 for being outstanding members of the pinball community. My second game after I got it installed I set the GC score which makes it even better.

Just listed in the market place... 3 Spark Generators made by The Mod Couple with glue dots for installation. $25 plus shipping. These are normally 2 for $23.75.

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Changed to $25 including shipping.

Items are SOLD.

Day one of pinball ownership. No guts no glory. Got rid of the fog on the lower playfield and lightly cleaned everything. Now to wait for my real cleaning supplies to arrive. Really surprised at how dinged the lower playfield is as this game only had a couple hundred plays on it.

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what did you use to clean the lower window with ?

Well keep in mind I'm a noob so I probably committed a few cardinal sins. But the lower portion of the lower playfield was so hazy it was kind hard to play. So I used a 50/50 alcohol water mix that was recommended to clean the Stern HD glass on the LE and very lightly dappened an eyeglass cleaning cloth. I did some gentle small circles and by the time I was done the glass was clean and the white cloth was black. Finished product haze free.

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Sorry for the delay. Didn't see this. Cloth.

ok cool thought maybe you used some polishing compound .

Ditto here, or at least getting that way. Time to bug Cliffy.

Is this like the chipping you are talking about? I have some on the front and the side. I'll buy the Cliffy part everyone is talking about, but what do I do about the chipped sections?

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So...my version of keeping the wire guide from bending...

I like 3d printed toys, but have never had luck when it comes to ball/ steel vs one. Steel always wins

There is a thin post back there already..switched to a star post ( not to hide anything ) then purple sleeve w 7/16 clear ring ( I'm using purple and glow Titans throughout). Couple dabs of hot melt on underside between the rubbers and they are positioned for life. Maybe a 1/64 gap between it and the rail...no way it lets it bend.

My rail was straight and not touching the opto to start...feel good this eliminates the chance ( just my take). Nice and tidy, and can't really see it when everything reassembled

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Absolutely identical to the first picture. Stern gave me a new one of their protectors but it looks like it will just do the same thing. Definitely getting a cliffy and will figure out some way to fill the crack when I do. Since it will be under the cliffy probably a drop of super glue in the crack then covered with a piece of mylar? My guess at the fix. Need to someone looking around at what others have done

Interesting idea.

Question- aren’t these the posts that dig in playfield clear. Also, maybe get a fatter rubber ring - it should fit sung against the rail. If you can get the rubber ring to fit snug against post you have a winner.

My 2 cents.

Also, the 3D parts that mostly fail are hollow for the most part inside. These 3D parts are solid print. But time will tell.

Nah....these are the posts that had (have) been used for years, and the "fix" along w washers (to hide the mess), for all the POTC games w playfield problems actually spread the force out as opposed to smaller posts on the clear. Amazing how they all had problems, but now that the price has inflated on the secondary market, no problems reported ( I digress). Fortunately, my MunstersLE was sprayed light, and I have no pooling, etc. Clear is solid.

I tried the 1", but didn't seat well against the inner bushing. I literally pushed against the wireform, and there is no way the ramp is going to bend. The ring simply doesn't let it bend enough to deform.

Agreed on the 3d design, especially w the dead foam you used to make it snug. I've just seen 3d print crack after repeated hits, including solid pieces...hopefully not in this case.

I think the design is great (3d print), but confident in the post approach. Hopefully, they both work....

3d prints are brittle along the layer lines so if you orient prints to reduce the forces on the layer lines they become very strong. The latest design is oriented in such a way. I've found you can do amazing things with much more force applied than you would think on 3d prints. Example: my 3d printed droid driving around a museum at halloween. I learned a lot about printing parts strong with this project. Amazing how much stress they can really take
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That’s clear!

Anyone see any concern before I try this 50/50 mix?

I'm sure it will be fine...I just had the parts and wanted to show another approach...no biggie.....

Always good to have options- nothing wrong with that! I like seeing multiple approaches in case the one I go with fails.

Wasn't ragging on what you did. That is a great option as well. 3d printing is definitely a science and small changes can cause very brittle parts. I've learned that the hard way.

No offense taken at all. I just look at things and try to find ways to fix or better them.

Some great thinkers in these threads if you get past the noise....

Clear I'm a noob or the glass is clear? Lol

Here is a before though not the best quality pic, but you can see the haze pretty clearly.

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I wonder if the 50/50 alcohol water mix is taking off the old wax on top/bottom of lower playfield window. Making it shine.

Now if you wax it wondering if the haze comes back?

I think I'd wait for a day...we use a very specific spray in my shop to clean 6 figure acrylic panels that house custom OLED stuff. Great stuff, anti fog, and not crazy expensive. Cleans and polishes... highly recommend.

It's in the shop and I'll post a pic tomorrow...may be buried in the thread somewhere. Key is a clean microfiber...every time!!

Good question. I will say I used the smallest amount and the haze wasn't "even" it was mostly on the underside of the glass around the flipper area. I wonder why they would wax the underside? Would have been nice for Stern to have included some care instructions for the LPF.

MK6PIN What is the name of the spray? I'm ordering official cleaning stuff to care for my pin so I don't have to keep using my homemade concoction.

very simple idea of course
but seems you still have some free place there, and while rubber is still a rubber (...), guide will bend :/

btw, tell us later to see how it works

yes it was my first aproach to it with some posts and some rubber rings, but i was missing the parts. It's good to know the parts now that would fit if someone prefers this method or is not possible to 3d print.
If it is possible with standard parts this will increase the possibility that stern will release something. A printed post, or extra designed one, i guess will cost too much

What is his email?

[email protected]

Here's the spray. Works great. Remember however, you will always collect a bit of dust, light film etc. after playing for awhile from mechs moving down there ( window to the underside).

Just another piece to clean on occasion...adds maybe 10 minutes to your main of cleaning
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I like simple, and no, it won't bend. Was starting to explain why, but too wordy. I'll post over time if someone wants an update.

ok let's hope you're right
give us some feedback

I remember using this years ago but forgot.

Question, do you apply anything to plastic after this treatment? When you wax your playfield do you wax the lower playfield plastic plastic cover?

No, this is all the plastic really needs. I wax the playfield, not the window, to avoid hazing...

I sent an email to Stern last night asking this and other questions re: the LPF and its care and cleaning. I'll let you know if they respond.

I said it here. I'll correct myself here.

3-4 months ago I got to play some pins my friend brought home. One of those pins was Stern Jurassic Park. I said I did not care for it. I got to play JP again last night. I was wrong. The pin is tough, but once I got a little feel for it, It was a blast to play.

My Munsters is not going anywhere and I am out of room but I sure would like to shoehorn a JP in some way some how. It is a righteous pin. Tough. Brutal.

I'm going to pull the trigger on the topper as soon as they're back in stock.

The multiplayer issues still exist. Just ran into them tonight during family tournament night

I agree here on Munsters. It is getting the most play in my collection right now. With the topper and mini playfield it is a 3 level game. The main play field is a great shooter as well Like Iron Man it is simple and straightforward. It is a faced paced game and Getting it going is very rewarding. I prefer it to both BM66 and Elvira3 which I am staring to think have too much code. Yes, I think Munsters needs more code. The secret mode and midnight madness concepts prove that but it is a very cool game right now. I think it is a keeper

Email Dwight!

Does anyone have the Topper for sale ?

Interesting...I like Elvira3 also, maybe just a tad more at this point...but, hoping that will change with a code.

This game gets the worst rap of any pinball machine that I have ever seen, mainly because of about three or four D*ckheads on this site. Munsters has fun rules, awesome lower playfield that is both skillful and fun, awesome theme, and it's the most beautiful game ever possibly. What's not to like? It's the pride and joy of my collection.

Are you for real? BM66 blows munsters code in every way.
Even an old Bally-Williams AFM has better code.

I'm just hope that the inside rumors are correct, and that we will see a massive update.

I'm honestly not a fan of BM66. Not saying it's a bad game but I just cant get into it. I want to love BM66 because it is a dream theme for me but for whatever reason it just doesnt thrill me.

What multi-player issue please? Tried to search thread but didn't find it. Thanks.

On a side note, after day three of owning my first baby, I have found and turned on the end game option so I can throw a fit and quit when my first ball shoots straight down the middle.

I’ve got Batman 66 sitting right next to Munsters and to me they are a pair. Contemporary shows of the same era. Both well written comedy and skillful actors timing to pull it all off.

Batman’s code excels in every way. Give Munsters similar software treatment and it may overtake Batman, because of everything else going for Munsters, although Batman is a top tier game. When Munsters gets the deserved show material treatment, they’ll be tied imo.

So is the dust haze on the inside of the lower playfield or the outside. Getting ready to do mine. Seems best to pull from underneath for alignment reasons. How do you use the Plexus cleaner? Rag, buffer? Microfiber?

Thanks MK

It was in the post I quoted. Mystery and Grandpa tend to stay from player to player. I was player 1 and got mystery twice and Grandpa was lit after already completing it. You can steal other people's mystery if they don't collect it.

The lower playfield gets filthy pretty easily. I think its cool dust from the flippers. The grime is on the inside of the glass and you can just spray the cleaner on there and wipe it off with a micro fiber rag. Make sure you give the entire lower playfield a good cleaning while you have it out. I just use Novus 1 for that.

The dust haze happens on the inside of the window. You can open any of you're games, and you'll notice it if you raise the pf...lots of mechs down there working away. As they wear, the dust follows ( like rubbers on top side).

I clean both sides of the window w a new microfiber cloth to avoid scratching. Just spray it on and wipe it off like cleaning glass.

Though the mini playfield is super easy to take out ( 4 screws and a couple wiring connections) I take the plastic off from the top to clean. Alot easier than doing it while still attached to the playfield.

Alignment really not as bad as some state, just make sure you're using a quality torx T10 driver, not an offbrand which may not fit exactly. Window drops in place, don't go crazy on tightening, and use a straightedge to make sure it's flush w playfield ( I just use my finger to feel for a ridge).

Happy cleaning!!!

Pull the mini pf to clean it ( of course)...watch for those mini balls to ensure the don't vanish when you do.

Whole thing is very easy to work on ( and looks cool sitting on the bench)