Just put one of your Stern shaker arms at a 90 degree angle and it will tone down stern shaker to more of the low feel of WOZ shaker motor. Or you can turn it even lower by relocating the other side arm to be exactly opposite and you will create even less shaker action, without needing to adjust frequency in the game menu.

Munsters shaker setup properly, really adds dimension to the game.

Here is the “how to” I wrote up some time ago for same issue on Batman:

Uninstalled Batman 66 shaker, because the motor literally shook the right flipper solder joint apart. I’ve now solved the issue and can again enjoy the shaker motor without fear of my motor ruining my game elsewhere. Here are the steps:

Removed shaker motor from the machine by removing two top case screws. Then remove four bolts holding unit to table cabinet base.

Next tried using an Allen wrench, only to strip it. Attempted torque wrench and broke head. Wishing I hadn’t started this project, lol. Used Vise Grip Pliers to finally loosen 1/32nd screw nib. Destroyed screw nib getting it off. Purchased new screw and reinstalled at the 90 degree angle hole, then retightened.

90 degree position offset as opposed to the other side weight. Putting only a drop of lock tight on the screw before re-inserting.
Real issue with original screw is that it had tons of lock tight, so it was not coming off without brute force. Had to finally clamp screw nib into bench vice and then used a screw driver inserted through weight hole to turn entire weight till it came off all the way.

Now at 90 degree offset position to opposite side weight, it works perfectly as a shaker motor and doesn’t shake the table glass any longer, but keeps the fun effect of the shaker motor intact. I left the other side untouched. You could move it 90 degrees also, but then they’d be 180 degrees opposite of each other and diminish shaker effect too much.

I’ve included photos below to see exactly how I positioned weights and where screws were placed. Have fun adjusting! It would have been a simple process without the heavy dose of lock tight. It is worth the effort as now shaker motor adds to the experience instead of being too violent.
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I like them on some games and others games i dont because they just shake the hell out of the game and you start finding screws in the cabinet and stuff like that. Hoping Munsters doesn’t shake too bad.

Not possible if you get the stern shaker. That one is more like a rumble pack. Red tremor from coin taker will cause and earthquake in your house.

I had pretty much the same issue on my Premium except on the left outlane. The red SPECIAL insert was always dimly lit. Called Stern, they sent me a new board, that fixed the issue.

All of mine are from pinball life. They are usually really good but GB and MET are a bit too strong sometimes. Need to try and adjust them and tame them down a little. GB may have got better since the code update, maybe i should turn it back on.

Before you launch hold left flipper button then the skill shot will now light in the lab as well as Grandpa's chair indicating to shoot there. Launch the ball shoot the chair to open the lab and then hit the skill shot

You mean I can adjust the setting? How?

When I hold the left flipper button, the yellow light lights up at the base of the Marilyn ramp for the super skill shot. It does matter if I make the super skill shot or not. I get no action from Grandpa. You have me confused.

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You have to hold both upper AND lower left flipper buttons to activate the super skill shot in Grandpa's laboratory.

Shit I forgot the "s", yes both BUTTONS

This is how wars get started. Someone forgets to check the Ps and Qs. And Ss.

Whoa. That is a challenging shot to make. And with a time callout to boot.

Its well worth it though because you get big points and hopefully you can hit the mystery award in there as well and get something good.

There is a setting in the system menu where you can adjust how frequently the shaker should activate.

I'm not all that worried about frequency. The intensity was what bothers me. It shakes like a jack hammer.

If you put it on the lowest setting it will help maybe though Cotton. What brand if shaker do you have? If its the red tremor throw it in the trash and get one from Stern or Pinball Life.

Who-dey, I turned it off when I first got the pin. I did not know there was a way to adjust it. If it is the red one, then I will just leave it turned off. And someday when I sell the pin it will be someone else's problem.

I don't know which brand I have. I'll have to lift the play field to get to it.

But I have a weekend trip that has come up. So everything for me is on hold till I return.

Open the coin door and look at it. If it’s a red tremor the case will be bright red.

Thanks. The case is a translucent clear.

Then it’s stock or PBL. They must have increased the intensity of these since GOT.

It's just the way that the game is programmed. Like on GB when you go into storage facility multi all it shakes way way too hard. I think it's just the programming being a little too aggressive more than the shaker motor itself.

I’ve played GBs with red tremor and stock. Completely different. But I agree. They have programmed the newer games to be more intense with the shaker.

Thanks everybody. I'll just leave my shaker turned off. It is not that big of deal to me. The rest of the game is smokin'.

I would hate to experience Storage Facility multiball with a red tremor shaker. I bet the game would start walking across the floor! LMAO

Switching from the topic of shakers to toppers, there needs to be an adjustment for the lighting level on the topper. I have my backbox lighting turned way down during game play and it would be nice to have the same adjustments available for the topper.

Also, I don't know if the light behind Raven is separately controllable but if so, the option for that light to come on only when Raven comes out would be nice as well.

Just more stuff that can be added for the next code update!

Definitely with you on this...especially the Raven light....makes sense to only light when he comes out......and if the clock hand could just tell time...

It seriously does. Don’t put it on a wood floor.

The bright white light behind the door of the topper is brutal.

Definitely should have an adjustment or not be used until the door opens.

I changed a couple of settings tonight. I really need to learn more about how the pin works.

The audit showed I have played 488 games---less the 55 that were on the pin when I brought it home.

I turned off Grandpa's Lab to see what the action was like without the lower play field. I like Grandpa's Lab so I will be turning in back on after a few more games.

I like hard fast hitting flippers so I had left the flippers on max power. But lately I have been having a lot of failed Grandpa scoop shots so I thought I would change the flippers. I was hesitant but tonight I moved the flippers back to one level less than max which is "normal". I liked this lower power with the flippers. They still kick like mules. I noticed no weakness at all. They played quite well. And my failed scoop shots seemed a little better.

So, with Grandpa's Lab turned off, and no lower play field, and the normal power setting on the flippers, I scored my best score to date. It turned out to be a hot game and all of the balls were killer balls. It got quite intense.

I finally got to Herman Level II and Lily Level II.

I missed getting Munster Madness so this score is with out MM.

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Wow very nice game you had there Cotton. Congrats!!

Great score dude!

For SAM games like MET you can install a PWM controller in 10 minutes and have full control of the shaker with just a turn of a dial.
Like this:
ebay.com link: DC 6V 12V 24V 28V PWM 3A Motor Speed Control Switch Controller Quality Module

I appreciate the info, but Munsters is Spike game and the Ebay auction says no shipping to the USA.

The pwn controller will blow the node board in Spike games so you can't use it. You can use it on any other game with a shaker but not Spike. I don't know of anyone that found any dialed controller to work on Spike to finely control the shaker.

Trapped ball: Last week I posted a pic of a ball trap that shut down my game. The ball went up the left ramp and bounced of to the left side and rolled around behind the ramp across two play field plastics and parked itself behind Herman's right elbow.

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The ball made the trip from the left side of the ramp to the Herman's elbow.

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I had a piece of scrap polycarbonate plastic and made a dam to stop this action. This is just a quickie fix. Since this is hidden from view, I'll work up something a little better at another time. Ignore the profile; This is leftover scrap.

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The small tab I made on the scrap let me use one of the factory screws to lock the dam down. Now, if I have a ball jump the ramp it will just roll down the plastic with the painted bats and fall into the Eddie Loop and stay in play.

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If it's not controllable, maybe tie that bulb into the coil voltage (with a current limiting resistor of course) so the bulb is on when the coil is on.

Since my topper came without a bulb installed behind Raven and Stern support never sent one, I ended up putting a purple bulb in there and adjusted it so it's more behind Raven instead of off to the side. I can't even imagine what a bright white bulb would look like.

Has anyone added or thought of adding LED eyes to Raven (once the topper is out of warranty of course)?

Hmmm...look what was waiting for me when I got home from work...I am almost afraid to install it given the horror stories...time to get busy.

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Let us know. By now the recalls might be over which means that each new unit sold might have to be case by case fixes. Still not sure if I should wait more before getting it.

Just got this from Stern. Had to ask as they don’t seem to be updating their Service Bulletin page.

I believe sticker is part number. Interesting enough, is they have an install sheet. Note the Date on it!
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Funny. I like shaker motors, and in my opinion the one in my Munsters is pretty meh. It doesn't seem well integrated as a mode effect, just sort of random shakes.

I think WOZ is one of the best integrated shakers if you ask me.

By the way, for all the bashing of this game, as a 40 year player of pinball with 4 machines, if I only have 15 mins to play a game, MUN gets it every time (2 months owner).

Big time!!!...Waiting for all the smoke to clear a bit, and fully intending to by a spare Raven and add Red LED eyes...

Dwight moved that stuff to MM 2 (2nd trip) and simplified the first visit.. then left the 3rd as a Hurry Up.

Well, the Raven certainly announces itself with authority...a pronounced thud each time it comes out...the door shuts all the way. Is the clock hand supposed to do anything? I found it in test, it spun one revolution and wouldn't spin again...just hums.

Power cycle and it should spin 2-3 times, lands on random spot currently. Raven mb gets it going as well when you hit jackpots

Lol the fragile stickers are new. They must be learning. I’ve had two delivered and no fragile stickers. Maybe UPS is breaking them throwing all around the distribution center.

I have a recent topper. Took off roof and sides to try adjustments. Bent light up behind Raven and that seemed to prevent it banging against it. I don't see how folks could change bulb. It might require taking off back panel to really do that easily. I also zipped tied a wire that was pretty close to Raven. Not touching, but it looked like it would get hit over time. I also took a fine file and removed a tad near bottom of door to make the door close more smoothly. Now, everything seems to be working 100%....except of course for the really bright white lights for Raven and some of the other lights on the sides.

Put a shaker in mine tonight and it doesnt do much like you said but I still like what it adds to the game. I would rather it be a little mild than to have it shake all if the screws out of my game like GB and MET did. I think the shaker adds a nice little touch to an already amazing game.