I like to install the “mod” boards so you have a centralized location, easy to plug, add or remove, and the mods aren’t just hacked in to random power locations.

Here is one for wpc
https://www.pinballlife.com/power-tap-and-8-way-power-splitter-board-for-williamsbally-wpc-pinball-machines.html

Otherwise I think at the coin door area there should be either and off the power/driver should be both voltages.

Hooking up LED strips to J116-J118 on the driver board will result in F116 to blow over time. There are many threads where people tried and had to remove them.

Install a separate power supply for your mods. The original circuitry is not very tolerate for extra loads.

No, you could run the 2nd power supply by tapping in to the main power supply after the on/off switch. This way the 2nd power supply comes on when you turn the game on.

I use a basic 5v/12v meanwell power supply in my games:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B005T7EZM8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_90G5VS4AE9H3YQFEPGAM

If you’ve replaced incandescent bulbs with leds, you have plenty of power for a few 5v led strips, I wouldn’t sweat it. You can tap off a gi line. 12v might be different, not sure how much extra you can add, but even with 12v, adding a few small 12v strips should be fine.

The only Power Supply Rail with any headroom is the 12 VDC unregulated.
Pin 2 of J117 is spare and should be the 12 VDC unregulated.

If you are using a Color DMD this Rail will already be loaded more than the Stock Game.
If BR5 on the Driver Board is not too hot to touch then you are go to go.

If you are using a Rottendog Driver Board then it will be fine. They used Discreet Diodes for the Bridge and they take handle more current overall

As mentioned you can use 5 VDC Led Strip and splice off the exisiting Rear GI String. If you are using incandesant Bulbs in the GI lighting then you will notice the LEDS flicker during dim Illumination. So it depends on what has already been done which direction you go

I ordered the extra power supply for my extra mods.
From the supplier advertised here on Pinside Arcadeupkeep.
Here is the link to their website:
http://www.arcadeupkeep.com/shop/4594679907/dual-voltage-mod-power-supply-system/11445996

I installed in bottom right corner of the BackBox. It plugs into the service outlet next to the coin door. I have LED strips, LED lighted flippers, LED Speaker and DMD lights, and a motorized Dalek head running off it, instead of draining an already taxed WPC89 Power board.

Victor Tan ("DumbAss" here on pinside) makes a WPC accessory power board with both 12 volt and 5 volt dc outputs to power accessory items. It's rated for three amperes output on each line. We've got several and they are great. Victor sold us the bare circuit boards and I assembled them myself.

The board has 8 output connectors polarized and matching the J116 to J118 on the wpc power driver boards.

Twilight Zone's 12 volt circuit is already maxed out with all the optos it uses. Even a color dmd will cause it to occassionally blow the 12 volts fuse.

tagging along. this thread is super helpful for something I am trying to do

Ive run into issues when adding lots of mods esp to games like tz,ij. I feel it better to add am auxilary power supply for 12v led strips and color dmds etc.

An Arcade Brick power supply can be installed into the main AC switched side wiring on the floor of the cabinet near the power switch.
It will provide both 12V and 5V and is adjustable when additional load is is needed such as when connecting mods using step up voltage transformers.

The idea is to take additional load off the power driver board.

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