If F114 blows, the lampmatrix and switches are not working.
Start with a check on bridge BR.1 , disconnect J101 and measure:

409062b.gif

You jumped ahead.
Start simple, work forward.
Nothing has been isolated.

Check all connectors for correct insertion. It is very easy to offset by a single row, and the whole game is thrown into chaos, particularly the MPU board and 0.100 connectors for lights and switches. This includes ribbon cables. You may also have a connector issue for +5 VDC power coming off the PDB.

What has been measured at vdc test points?

If you really want to become a protege there are a number of local collectors in your region that may be willing to teach. Money is not always an objective.

I think zaza is going all in.

From KLOV:
"Addams dead switches + blows fuse F114
removed all connectors (except J101..) and F114 blows the instant I switch on.
....also, none of the switches on the coin door and start button are working. "

Then at end of thread:
"BR1 is indeed the culprit! thanks a bunch!! "

I'm'a sit here and wait for a bunch of people to fail just for there to be one more issue, step in, and take the 100 bucks.

As usual Zaza is giving sound advice. Since you are blowing the 18V fuse, you are not only missing the 18V for the lamps (LED6), you are also missing your regulated 12V DC (LED 1) to the MPU since it is developed from the 18V DC; because of this it's pointless to do any work on the lamp or switch matrix. Additionally, the missing 12VR is needed by the MPU for your dedicated ground switches on the coin door, and would be why they are not working.

Edit: Circuit added so you can see where this information comes from.

18V (resized).png

Ok, I'll say it "I'll take a stab at it" ... I'm confident that you will get it fully operational. If you have to have order a a new BR1, take advantage of this time to evaluate the condition of your cannons and your three diverters; 2 are in the subway and one for the Delta ramp. All 5 of these parts were greased when the game was first assembled and this grease is likely hardened, you will want to remove all of the old grease from these parts and apply a thin coat of grease to them, I use Super Lube on mine. https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI

Now this is an entertaining and useful thread! Popcorn is popping as we speak...

This is NOT an issue.

The checks Zaza had you do is to look for shorted bridge rectifier diodes, it seems you are reading 0.00V to ground on two readings, this is what you would also read if you put your meter leads together. I personally prefer to take resistance measurements but either way you check them gets you to the same place, you have confirmed that BR1 has two shorted bridge diodes and needs to be replace.

IMG_1889 (resized).JPG
IMG_1891 (resized).JPG

Depending on your soldering skills and equipment you can opt to replace it yourself, or have someone else replace it for you. Fair warning...things can go South really fast if the board is damaged when replacing this component, let me know how you handle the board repair. This bridge rectifier is going to be difficult to do since you basically have to remove both BR1 and BR2 at the same time by desoldering all 8 leads in order to remove the heatsink, and you would replace both of them at the same time.

You could just remove the board and send it to Rob Anthony and get it professional looked at for $100.

I believe that is the case, without having a working 12V to the processor, it is likely reading a low on all switches and has no idea where any any of the balls are.

I the more I thought about your OEM power board, the more I felt I needed to add more information on this...it's very unlikely that BR1 and BR2 can be successfully replaced without a desoldering station, attempting to replace these with a hand operated extractor will likely result in board damage. You have several options available to you, there is likely going to be repair facilities in your area where you can get this board repaired, there are also several reputable people on this site that do fantastic work.

I'm not experienced. But I'd unplug the row one connector from the cpu. If error stays you have board damage on the cpu. If the error goes away you have a short to row one out in the game. White wire with brown stripe. A short to wiring, switch lugs, switch shorted internally type stuff.

No, because all the rows would be showing up in error.

LTG : )

Let me see what happens when I pull that fuse from my machine...

You do realize that you are trying to fix a problem "over the Internet" that is not best solved hiring an over the Internet tech. Right? If so, carry on but at least make yourself a "breaker relay fuse" so you don't needlessly burn up a dozen fuses trying to solve the problem.

Man that is one awesome animated gif image, it's so nice to see where exactly needs probed. Someone should make a quick tutorial post on how to make those types of images for other people to create in other tech threads.

Awesome! You should do fine then.

I don't believe any of these coils (other than flippers) have diodes on them so it should not matter.

http://gifmaker.me/

Ok so on your game spazing out ... This is hard to define, without knowing exactly what the machine is doing, like I mentioned before, it will be looking for balls since you essentially have no switch matrix; it will go through a ball locate program and fire coils turn on the cannons ... etc.

Very true, the software should be smart enough to realize that all the rows are bad and give you the "check F114 and F115 message"

As a rule of thumb, the first priority in any troubleshooting is to get your power supply voltages taken care of first, and then look into any other alarms. Since you know your BR1 is bad, let's get it squared away before delving in too deep on any other issues.

I hate seeing stuff like that, It's hard to tell with all the flux residue but it doesn't look like they pulled off any of the pads. They should have did BR1 at the same time, if they did you probably wouldn't be where you are now

I don't recommend that as you could end up inducing new problems into the mix. If you really want to do that I would suggest waiting until the machine is fully working, that way should there be a new problem introduced, you can limit it to what was just touched instead of not knowing if it existed before you messed with it.

Good call, the concern here is you have no idea how hot the heat sink got before BR1 failed and this heat could have degraded BR2 since they share the same heatsink.

While you are away replacing your BR's I did a little testing for you (this is one of my favorite things to do) I simulated a blown F114 as well as row 1 ground short. While F114 was removed, I was not able to see the ground short on row 1, as soon as the processor 12VR was restored by replacing F114 the ground short showed up.
IMG_1892 (resized).JPG
This ground short will prevent any further diagnostics but also makes me curious as to why you are not seeing the blown F114 F115 fuse message; after restoring your 12VR, please post a good picture of the bottom half of your MPU board, so I can see the board and connectors, then I'd like you to remove the row and column connectors to the playfield and turn the machine on, with no information coming back to the processor, it should tell you to check fuse F114 and F115 since it will not be receiving any information back from the switches, you may want to keep the coin door open so you dont have to listen to the continuous firing of coils.

Note that the ROM (OS part of the ROM image, specifically) will ALSO give this message if it does not see the 'Always Closed' switch closed.

Not having your coin door interface board connected will cause this, since the 'Always Closed' switch (24, I believe?) is on the CDI.

ohhhh....I just watched the video. I now know what you man by freaking out, the missing 12VR will not cause the problems from your video.

The thing I'm not seeing here is as far as I can tell there is no message to check F114 and F115 even with a blown F114 ... maybe I'm just assuming that this message didn't show up and reading too much into whats not there...

send board to rob Anthony and be done with the headaches. fixed, working, in a week or 2!

I always prefer to do any work myself if possible, it's a big part of what makes pinball ownership fun for me!

If you are concerned with it, then go for it, since you have done this to your friends without any problems I have to assume you are technically competent to do so.

After you get this put back in, can you post pictures of the connections for your MPU, aux driver, and fliptronics boards?

Any chance you can toss your MPU in his machine to verify its operating properly?

ditto, or buy a new board...game is fixed instantly and bulletproof for future....

I think what the OP is saying is that its not just wanting to get it to work, but rather the personal satisfaction of doing the repair himself...I get the same feeling when I fix something rather than replace...

You've got a bunch of bad solder joints on that board. The two I have circled in red are cracked and it's hard to tell with the flux on the other joints, but they look like cold solder joints (the highest point of that solder should be at the pin not on each side of the pin). I'm sure there are others besides what I've noted.

solder-joints (resized).jpg

Pay Clay $20 for his ninja site. He covers all the issues with videos.

Ditch those alkaline batteries on the board asap. Use an off-board battery holder, memory cap or NVRAM to prevent possible alkaline damage in the future.