I was at my buddy's house and he was telling us about that he had a tech out to look at a baywatch with no coil v. Tech spent an hour and I think over $100 but went unresolved.

Opened up the head. Squeezed the fuse clips back together. Worked.

WMS too cheap to add a $0.003 cap bleeder resistor =D

I have noticed that WPC solenoid capacitor sure does hold V for a while. I drew a nice spark one sliding a playfield back into the game, something touched ground near the back of the PF on Johnny. Saw the blue flash and heard the snap, luckily nothing fried.

Would have been nice if wpc games had a bleeder resistor across the solenoid capacitor. The LED on power driver stays lit for a while after you turn the game off. I too have gotten a power off jolt from touching a coil lug and drawn a spark sliding a playfield back down. I think gottlieb used a 30k 1/4w resistor to drain the cap down faster after power off.

Dracula. Had +2vdc coming out of the 12vdc bridge. IDC plug probably took longer than a minute to repin, but was easy to find already knowing the power path.

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Must be like a 1M resistor. This dracula just fixed I can draw a nice blue arc from a coil lug to the ground braid 60 seconds after the power goes off. I made a bad assumption one of the LEDs that stays lit for a long time was the sol bus V. I guess its probably +18v or whatever as the 12v would go flat quick.

Yep, it sure is. Probably will bump up the resistance to around 20k-30k so it does not burn up again as 10K at 70v is around a power of 1/2W. I hate taking out those power driver boards, so many plugs. On the list for later, not too big of a deal. I'd bet that resistor is smoked on a lot of boards and it just goes unnoticed. This game appears to have seen a lot of on time / play.