(Topic ID: 250665)

Parts search for Bally Bingo

By JimmyJames

11 months ago

Topic Stats

  • 14 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 months ago by baldtwit
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider


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    #1 11 months ago

    I’m am looking for a few “generic “ parts for a couple of different machines.
    part Bally C-326-9 these are typical light shield posts. I need at least two.
    I also need a switch actuator part C-709-1. It’s a five slot actuator just like the one for double red score in the picture. As you can see the double yellow is missing.
    Last...I need a coil stop for the magic line stepper on a Miss America Deluxe.
    Any information on where to locate any of these would be greatly appreciated.

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    #2 11 months ago

    I grabbed a bally bingo recently from a basement. I hauled the beast home and found that it was infested with a huge amount of mice droppings and rusted to oblivion from pee. I kept the playfield but am afraid I'll get Ebola if i try to clean it for a wall hanging.
    Long story short - I got 7 undamaged light covers in a bag(needs some cleaning) for you. The rest is in a landfill. If you need any posts, the red bally shooter lane thing or outside edge springs let me know. Good luck on your project. I'd personally rather fix a bowler than a bingo! What a big job.
    Message me your address if you still need them.

    #3 11 months ago

    I think I PM’d you with my number? Text me and I will send you my address. I would eventually like a Bally Bowler... with balls not shuffle board pucks.

    #4 11 months ago

    magic line stepper == selection feature unit?

    if so, the step up coil old part number is 25-gg-7 and the reset coil was 28r-15. Both those numbers may have co- in front, and the new part numbers are B-25-925 and C-28-1100

    the green book says coil stops for stepper units using the old part number coils are A-613-32A or A-613-33A. A wilms catalog says A-613-33. You can find the wilms number at the pinball parts suppliers with dimensions so ya can compare to what you have.

    wilms says the 5 slot radial bottom switch lifter is C-709-1, so that's good. Finding one ... may be easier to grab one you have and 3d print one if your local library has a 3d printer you can use. I don't have one to copy so can't help, and there's lots less late model parts machines floating around. I'll look in some bally flipper games of that era in the pinball museum warehouse next week and see if I can find any.

    #5 11 months ago

    Yes...the selection feature unit. I have replaced the coil B-25-925. The old one was fried and the coil stop was fused to the coil. After cleaning it up and reassembling it works fine but it buzzes pretty bad.I think I have found the replacement but I’m not sure? See center or picture. I do have a C-709-1 that I can have 3D printed. I never even considered that! Thanks. Has anyone tried 3D printing a light shield post?

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    #6 11 months ago

    We have 3D printed posts ready for sale, in stock. 6 bucks each. I have the ladder and the stop you need as well.

    #7 11 months ago

    PM me and let me know how to get the five slot actuator (ladder) part C-709-1 for my Tahiti and the coil stop for the step up coil on the selection feature unit for my Miss America Deluxe. Thanks for the quick response!

    #8 11 months ago

    This is the ladder, I sent you a PM but then discovered I should have attached the photo here.

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    #9 11 months ago

    That’s it!
    Here are a couple pictures of the coil stop. As you can see I had to rivet the stop back to the bracket. It works but buzzes very loud. The holes are 9/16” apart.
    Can you post a picture of a 3D printed light shield?

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    #10 11 months ago

    Here's some photos of the 3D printed posts.

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    #11 11 months ago
    Quoted from JimmyJames:

    After cleaning it up and reassembling it works fine but it buzzes pretty bad.

    the coil should only power briefly. Is your buzz more than a second or two? If so, you'll need to find out why as that's what burned up the old coil.

    the schematic makes no sense - if CU cam 5B was NC as shown at F52, the selection feature step up coil could lock on. The manual says 5B is NO.

    the manual is missing wiper information. Below is a factory blueprint...which is unfortunately undated wrt the modifications.

    does that clear it all up? Nope. The schem shows the wiring per the note about games 1107 and 1159. Miss Am Deluxe manual says 1151 on the front. See the ipdb.org entry for more info. If you don't have a date stamped below your games serial number, or if there's a tag in the game with model 1151 on it, you can help add to the confusion It's likely that 1151 is just an error on the manual cover.
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    #12 11 months ago

    It does only energize for a second but it sounds different than all of the other units with the same coil and coil stops. I think it might be because I destroyed the coil stop removing it from the burned up coil and had to rivet it back together? Again... so far it has just been powering for a second and it’s never got hot. This guy on the left in the picture however, (no label.... spotting unit latch? Energized by the red start button) it stays powered sometimes and does get hot. I haven’t figured out why. Sometimes it works and sometimes it hangs open it usually stops right as I’m about to shut the power off.

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    #13 11 months ago

    All of the score units have 1159 written in sharpie on them

    #14 11 months ago
    Quoted from JimmyJames:

    This guy on the left in the picture however, (no label.... spotting unit latch? Energized by the red start button) it stays powered sometimes and does get hot. I haven’t figured out why. Sometimes it works and sometimes it hangs open it usually stops right as I’m about to shut the power off.

    closed enough. The thing is called the "spotting index unit" or "index coil assembly (spotting disc)" or "spotting cams index" or "mixer spotting cams index"

    I guess the common words are spotting and index.

    anyway, that thing has only one switch that powers it....CU cam 4C. There's three possibilities assuming no shorts in the circuits:

    1] the drag are cams are pausing the rotation of the CU cams briefly...a couple seconds extra. That makes the cycle longer and it's obvious because the lights are flashing longer. That's normal.

    2] CU cam 4C switch is not opening reliably. Check/adjust the switch.

    3] the CU cams are stalling because the clutches are worn or too oily. When the cams need to lift a lot of switches at the same time, the clutches slip but may eventually grab and keep going. Your only options here are:

    - if too much oil, try and get rid of it. There shouldn't be liquid oil on the clutches.

    - there's a nut and spring on the CU shaft between the metal drag arm cams and the brown bakelite timer cams. Turn the nut to compress the spring more...that'll put more pressure on the clutches

    - if the clutches are worn too thin for the tension adjust to compensate, it's time for new clutches. They show up on ebay occasionally. You probably need 0.5" x 1.5" leather clutches for that game, but you'd want to check.

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