Targeted GI reinforcement. Extra punch where you need it. None where you don't.

A new range of light boards for specific GI boosting.

Slingshot mounted models..

Need more visibility at the business end of your machine? Want to remove post mounted spotlights from above your plastics?

SlingSpot
IMG_1278 (resized).jpg
Attach directly to slingshot switch bases and blast your lower playfield where it counts..The bit where you need to see the ball.
LEDs sit below the plastics, either side of each sling switch and above and below the slingshot rubber.
IMG_1210 (resized).jpg

SlingSpot Slim
For many Bally/WMS and Data East machines that only have a half inch playfield hole for the sling switches. The narrower form factor can be manoeuvred into place through the small opening.
slingNarrow (resized).PNG

Or positioned anywhere you want..
Surgical placement of GI reinforcement, right where you need it, and only where you need it.

The Sniper
IMG_1242 (resized).jpg
A three-LED tower that can go almost anywhere and face any direction. Kill your shadows, not your eyeballs.

IMG_1250 (resized).jpg

Built to last..

Industrial componentry
Not your average Chinese LED. These are top shelf CREE LEDs that can put through up to 50mA per colour channel.
IMG_1244 (resized).jpg

AC/DC powered, polarity agnostic. Just plug the damned things into something and get going.

Schottky diode equipped bridge rectifiers get you all the voltage, all the time.
IMG_1245 (resized).jpg

Coupled with a monster 2200uF aluminium capacitor so peak AC voltage equals your constant DC voltage. 6 plus volts of DC goodness pumping through every light source every second of play.
IMG_1246 (resized).jpg

Colour temp adjustment
IMG_1239 (resized).jpg
You like it warm? Just turn the knob. Match your boost units to your current GI bulb preference in seconds. From ice cold through sunlight and into mellow yellow..no need for your reinforcement to look out of character.
IMG_1215 (resized).jpg

Comet Matrix compatible connectors.
2mm pitch, 2pin JST connectors so you can chain up with your existing Comet strips.
IMG_1243 (resized).jpg

Plug anywhere
I swore I would never do it, but you don’t seem to care, so for the first time ever on a redshiftLED product...drum roll...
Alligator clips!!! Yes, don’t worry about sparks or shorts or electrocuting yourself, just clip on to the nearest exposed bit of wire and see what happens! I’ve built so much capacity into these things that you could plug them into Three Mile Island and still win. Try to blow them up. I dare you.
IMG_1282 (resized).jpg

These lights are built for one single purpose. To increase the amount of illumination on the ball so you can see IT. They shine SIDEWAYS. AT the ball. Not through the plastics, not onto your artwork, not onto your ramps and not into your eyes. Don’t expect to be able to see your machine from space, just expect to be able to see the ball from your head.
.

Stock..
IMG_1226 (resized).jpg
.

With SlingSpot..
IMG_1217 (resized).jpg

Available next week at ...redshiftLED

...redshiftLED...shipping product within 24 hours of receiving your money since 2015.

More pics

LED photography is tricky. Before and after shots can be easily "edited". Here are three shots taken in direct sequence as the SlingSpots are added.

First is stock, then left side added then right side..
IMG_1277 (resized).jpg
IMG_1276 (resized).jpg
IMG_1275 (resized).jpg

Here are pics in Iron Maiden showing a comparison of the opposite ends of the cool-warm spectrum..

IMG_1219 (resized).jpgIMG_1220 (resized).jpg

Now don't expect a big flood of light onto your artwork. These aren't shining that way. Here are some videos of me rolling the ball around with my hand on the playfield. Notice how the visibility of the ball picks up and how well lit my hand is.

You can even play the videos together!

Stock

With SlingSpot

Tron Stock..
Notice where the factory spotlights come in. You can see the border.

With SlingSpot..
Factory spots still on, but no light border on the PF

Here's where they go in..
IMG_1266 (resized).jpg

Installed..
IMG_1267 (resized).jpg

IMG_1269 (resized).jpg

Just finalising that now, but shooting for around $11-$12 a stick, give or take.

I’m going to do other form factors. Because they can go anywhere, I just need to make sure that the LEDs can peep through a gap and get to the playfield.

Here are some SlingSpots being used to peek around playfield targets. I will do some shapes that get more LEDs around the outsides of targets, etc.
EDCE0749-30F5-427D-9D41-3B8EFFF3FAB7 (resized).jpeg
3FED5EB2-F9E7-4F21-A03B-15883FB974EA (resized).jpeg
A9BEDDDD-CD97-4E6D-9C70-5793F28C8DD9 (resized).jpeg
16DD9F93-5D8C-428F-9C88-99975D20F034 (resized).jpeg
521C2AAE-7588-461A-A25B-1E794162A927 (resized).jpeg
774CE567-6870-4559-A12D-8D2CD369356C (resized).jpeg

Spike games don't need the capacitor obviously. I may or may not make Spike specific models without the cap. They will be a little cheaper. You also don't technically *need* the cap on other games that are hooked onto the AC GI, but it pumps the voltage by about 40%. My Tron is reading 7V DC out of the 6V AC source.

What's a guy gonna do on a Friday night while everyone's at expo?

A couple more days. I’m just getting some final production process things in place. And my connectors have been delayed. I was expecting them Friday. Looks like they arrive tomorrow.
I only have the Stern ones ready to go. I’m still tweaking the WMS model for proper fit in the small holes. WMS will be a week or two.

Argh, my reflow oven shat itself over the weekend. Poor little guy was working way above his pay grade, lol. I am making one set at a time in limp mode here so will be able to dribble some out over this week, but full production will have to wait until next week when the new oven arrives.

First sets will be listed as available to ship tomorrow.

Final production prototypes of the narrow are in. Tommy is the only machine I have on site with the small switch holes, so here goes..
IMG_1416 (resized).jpg
IMG_1426 (resized).jpg

I must say, I do like the way that they look like they really mean business.

IMG_1427 (resized).jpg

I warmed them a bit before installing, but they still went in a bit cool...

IMG_1433 (resized).jpg

Adjust..

IMG_1435 (resized).jpg

That's better..
IMG_1437 (resized).jpg

IMG_1431 (resized).jpg
IMG_1432 (resized).jpg
IMG_1438 (resized).jpg

My GI circuit reads 5.8VAC. I am 6.2VDC after the rectifier.

In the store now. Only a few sets because of the oven burn out, but there will be permanent stock.

http://redshiftled.com.au/Store.php#!/SlingSpot-For-Stern/p/120277484/category=31800669

You can experiment with one on each sling..but I’m pretty sure you’re going to want both pumping.

I'm testing places all around the playfield. Small standups like at ramp entrances aren't going to work because you will exactly snap them off. In other places I can't really seem to get the ball to go anywhere near them. I have generally been thinking about an optional back brace to prevent structural damage from possible impact, or a polycarbonate screen for the front, but am yet to feel a screaming need.

Could you clarify the sort of position you mean? Maybe a pic?

These sorts of places? Or am I being obtuse? I've got that one you can see there in my Maiden. Ball doesn't get close.

IMG_1442 (resized).jpg

IMG_1443 (resized).jpg

IMG_1444 (resized).jpg

Stock..
D9C2D51E-3AF0-4508-B510-6CD313560A10 (resized).jpeg
SlingSpots..
CAFCB863-50F0-4EEE-9477-F7625E3FBF3B (resized).jpeg

Not yet. I doubt there's any chance of that with those caps.

Yes. Brackets are the bain of my existence. You would think they would be easy to find, but noooo. I am getting some quoted to get made. I have a few trial versions like these below. But I'm not 100% happy with them. They work, but aren't what I really want to be shipping.

BA74439B-47FE-4C3C-9635-F0F5269ECB9C (resized).jpeg

BAD7A968-A62C-4F1D-8E8E-993354A9C0F9 (resized).jpeg

Yeah the factory positioning of the trim pot is in the middle, so most people will probably straight away want to go cooler.

I think I'm going to redden up the warm end of the spectrum a bit. I just have to throttle the green channel a bit. It will technically be at the expense of a small level of brightness, but I can't tell the difference while testing.

If you want to send one back I'll replace it with a redder one, or you can just pop off the 49ohm resistor on the green line and put a 100 there.

Well, cancel the bally/WMS version. It was a nice idea, but I overlooked that the sling switches on those are riveted to the bracket. No one is going to bother drilling rivets to install. Oh well. Sigh. Still good for Data East so I'll run the narrows for them.

No, they are the same, designed to go through a standard GI bulb hole.

That will probably be just too tight for the normal ones. Narrows will slide in no worries.

Well, don’t write this idea off either. Not the greatest engineering, but works 100%.

And I think the rivets are smaller and flatter than these screws I put there for illustration.

0580316F-A051-4893-A6DD-2E87F37912A3 (resized).jpeg50C357F5-D46C-40B3-8983-F755EFBF0BA8 (resized).jpeg

About to list more stock. A few days. Just waiting on the cables.

They are currently powered directly from the GI circuit. I initially built an isolation unit to run extra LEDs off the 12V extension header, with switching from the GI circuit, but I really don't think it's necessary. 8 LEDs won't kill it. Each board at full cool is 150mA. 600mA for the four of them is ok. 3 watts.

I can always provide isolation units, but doubt people will want the extra spend.

I would start to think about isolation if you're getting up to and over an amp. I might revisit and put one together.

I would have to do a 12V version. Easy enough to do. I'll run a few if I can confirm they fit.

Yes, just drop the caps off. I am redoing the store right now and will have SAM and Spike listed seperately.

SAM and Spike versions restocked and available.

https://redshiftled.com.au/Store.php#!/SlingSpot/c/31800669/offset=0&sort=normal

For node isolation purists (me included) I am also putting together a power/isolation unit for spike that will power off the 12v aux power and trigger off the GI.
It’s not really necessary but for a few bucks it will be a peace of mind thing.

Slims are a couple more days away.

Yep, that’s exactly what it will do. Plug into power, clip onto trigger.