(Topic ID: 72263)

Williams Org Medieval Madness Owners Club *-* The door is open ... c'mon in !!

By Thor-NL

10 years ago


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#17 9 years ago

My favorite game still after 10 years.

Spoiler Alert. I use 2 cool tricks you might want to find out for yourself so don't read this.

My home strategy is to:
-Take the chance and kill 3 castles to get extra ball lit
-Then bring the drawbridge down to setup the 4th.
-Only then shoot for extra ball so I might get destroy castle gate from Merlin. Don't shoot if Trolls is lit
-Get minimum of 2 madness lit and if I don't have trolls lit. Shoot the lock until I start Castle Multi-ball or light trolls.
-Once Trolls is lit I try my luck with the other 2 madness before starting Madness Multi-ball
-Once Madness multi-ball starts I try to destroy trolls to start Troll madness.
-If I get Trolls and start Troll madness, i bash trolls until I get Master of Trolls.
-Then I go for castles until the end of multi-ball
-Then try to pick up any madness I didn't get and start Royal Madness.
-On Royal Madness shoot Catapult with first shot. Then try to get 1 of every shot to advance 1 of every champion to BFTK or hopefully get the extra ball
-I then try to advance Madness but always try to light trolls before starting it. If I have Master of Trolls I spend my time on castles
-At this point I shoot the lock to start Castle multi-ball either for an extra ball or to get Castle Crusher
-If I light BFTK, I see if I can start Royal Madness first because that is so cool to shoot BFTK with Royal Madness going
-There are other things that come along that I let happen but don't shoot for

858MM is my best with a drain with the 3rd BFTK lit. I still think about that.

5 years later
#441 3 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

I would look at the edge of the PF as the originals will have manufacturer stamps and dates

This has been correct for all the WPC-95 Games I have had. My AFM actually had the stamp on the top edge of the playfield (LS) not the bottom like my MM which has Sep 05 CCC. I don't remember where the stamp was on MB but it had one also.

The other thing to look for if you look at Manny65 pics is that the Mirco repros I have had didn't actually add the insert under the left side under the apron. However, I don't remember IPB doing MM but on TAF and MB they did have the insert.

#455 3 years ago
Quoted from Edster:Mine is a bit more closed but not completely

It should be straight up and even with the castle. There were a bunch of threads on fixes for this on rgp. If you flip the
Play field up and move the drawbridge back you will see slop in the linkage. Some people used zip ties some small Machine screws with nuts. Your mileage may vary

EF54CCFC-D051-4FC5-B95E-BFAA47E99003 (resized).jpegEF54CCFC-D051-4FC5-B95E-BFAA47E99003 (resized).jpeg
8 months later
#538 3 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

Question for y'all,

When I first bought my game the feed from the moat consistently fed the left flipper which bounced up the right inlane for a perfect feed to the lock shot.

After I shopped it the first time removing the popper weldment the feed bounced off the ball guide and became random. I did a bunch of tweaks and got it back to where it feeds clean now. I cranked up the pitch so don’t get the clean dead flip but it feeds the left flipper consistently

#545 3 years ago
Quoted from darkryder:

Who sells replacement drawbridge door decals that don’t get chewed up within a few games?

I have Kerry’s castle protector and haven’t had the decal damaged in 15 years. But it
may be a heavier decal that is original

#549 3 years ago

It’s called the castle front protector but I highly recommend the Merlin hole protector also

https://mantispinball.com/product-category/medieval-madness/

1 month later
#577 3 years ago
Quoted from amxfc3s:

My drawbridge often doesn't close all the way

There are a few topics on this. I use a zip tie to take out some slack others use screws etc. the ball fits fine behind the drawbridge which is a great trick during multi ball but not allowed in competition

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