(Topic ID: 72263)

*-*Medieval Madness Owners Club*-*-> The door is open ... c'mon in !!

By Thor-NL

6 years ago

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  • 461 posts
  • 107 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Boof-Ed
  • Topic is favorited by 82 Pinsiders


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#256 1 year ago

I have been enjoying my MM for a few years now, great game and never seem to get sick of it.
Well before the remakes were mentioned, I had trouble paying the massive asking prices here in Australia so I built one instead.
Plenty of others have done it now too but was a fun project.
Was a WCS94 (playfield was toast), modified the BB to suit the WPC95 spk panel and loaded it with WPC95 board-set and presto!

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10 months later
#351 6 months ago
Quoted from jalpert:

Because I hate it when people don't post solutions....
The new troll ramp flaps with installed decal from Marco came in. I couldn't really test the thickness of the current flaps without taking them off, what a pain in the ass these things are to work with.
I broke out the caliper and the flaps on my game of unknown origin were consistently .1mm thicker than the flap with pre installed sticker I got from Marco. And the new flaps made all the difference in the world. The ball was getting air off those and hitting the standup targets high, and that was catapulting them into the air in all kinds of crazy ways.
Also, if you have a restored or cleared playfield, especially if you wax like I do, you might have to move down a color in flipper strength and also down in sling strength. I still get airballs off the targets, but I have new ones coming along with new pieces of foam backing which I'm confident will fix the few airballs I still get.

I have a mirco playfield, the perimeter mylar under the troll covers, I did my own artwork for the Troll decals and then covered them with mylar to protect the ink. No air-balls here.

The only air-balls I get is off the left troll target, sometimes it launched under the catapult wireform, put n extra rubber here which resolved this.

I did have to modify the mirco playfield slightly before installation.

Made an indent on the left hand side to accommodate the lane guide as the whole left hand side was flush.
Also sanded the launch lane groove to the correct length which gives a more consistent launch and less rattling around in the launch lane.

5 months later
#424 31 days ago
Quoted from jbovenzi:

To the thread, I have found that I am stumped. Long post, but trying to channel my inner Engineer by providing all details that I can think of.
Original Williams Medieval Madness game that I am shopping. Game was working fine before I started playfield shop, took the pf down to the wood, placed a Makrolon protector on it and reassembled the pf.
When I got the game, the left troll was not working, but assemblies were replaced by the Planetary Pinball brackets, so both Trolls were functioning. I also replaced both flipper assemblies with new brackets/kits. The game has been routed since its purchase in 1997, so i felt justified in replacing Troll brackets and flippers.
After top shopping was done, game was working fine again. I could play games to completion without any issue.
One day I saw that the left flipper was not working during a game. Stopped game immediately and saw that the flipper coil had locked on. Flipper coil was burnt, so no more playing before I diagnosed this. I see no burnt connectors but fuse F116 (+50 volts 4.0 A, left flipper) was blown as well.
My diagnostics told me that the suspect transistors Q89, TIP102 and Q87 TIP36C could be blown for the coil to lock on. Replaced, Q89, Q87 and F116. Left Flipper coil is also replaced of course. No binding in flipper after replacing coil, it moves freely. Left EOS switch checked in Switch Test and works fine.
Now I have the following: game plays, as I turn on the game, start button works to start a game and game plays normally (as far as I can tell). Right flipper does its job and flips. Pushing the left flipper button causes the game to reset. Game shuts down and reboots.
Left flipper button when pressed not in a game does nothing. It is only when the flippers are energized during a game does the left flipper take it out.
I have read (but not exercised) the list of WPC Resets as suggested many times on this site: https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets
I am guessing that the left flipper during game play is shorting the 5 Volt to the MPU, but as the Fliptronics circuit is on the WPC-95 Power Board, I am at a loss to figure out what is going on. Left flipper wired directly to the power board if I have that correctly.
Any hints, threats, or "you dummy, this..." are appreciated to help me isolate this problem. Guide me towards some place else to follow other steps if that works for you.

make sure the wires you soldered onto the new flipper coil are the right way around. If not you are shorting the +50V through the diode instead of the coil.
ie, the diode is backwards compared to the voltage polarity connected to the coil. This of course is assuming the new coil had the 2x diodes installed which I guess it does. Otherwise install diodes (the correct way around) as this will also cause noise issues that can cause the game to reset due to voltage spikes.
The manual does have the correct flipper wiring colours etc to follow.

good luck.

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