Maybe it tripped the 5v watchdog circuit?? This would look like someone turned the power off and back on again - is that what you saw?

Although it doesn't explain the DMD issue you are now seeing or the why it reset the game to factory settings

Do you have any other WPC-95 games? If so you can swap over components to help troubleshoot where the issue lies. It seems to me that the game powers on correctly but the DMD is having issues. Can you play a game and if so is the game play normal? First thing I'd suggest is reseating your cables, if no luck and you have another WPC-95 game I'd look at swapping your power driver board or cables associated with the DMD

They are great to have one on hand, but always good to resolve the underlying issue.

Play some games on the machine and see if it resets again - quite often this will happen if you double flip (ie hit both flippers at the same time) or it multi-ball. If you get more resets then you should firstly reseat your cables - I don't recall the specific cables for WPC-95 but you'll find plenty of references if you google "5v reset WPC-95", it'll also tell you how to troubleshoot if this becomes a persistent issue.

I'd reseat all your cables and ribbon cables, and ensure any socketed chips are firmly pressed in.

So what actually happened in multi-ball? Did it reset (power off and then back on again) or just started the behaviour you've shown in the clip? The audio and video come from the same board on a WPC-95, but I'd start with your cables for now. Unless you are getting resets, I don't believe kahr's board isn't going to help fix this

Based on the IPDB Parts List:

9 x 20-9658-1 1/2" standoff
9 x 20-9658-2 3/4" standoff

Was this what you were after?

I had this issue, for me it turned out to be the blue rubber stoppers the coil plungers sit on - they had deteriorated just enough to become slightly sticky and it was just enough to stop the plungers from lifting the trolls up. I personally didn't think this would be the issue but I swapped them out (I was out of ideas of what was causing the issue) and it fixed them. Worth a look anyway

It goes in the top left hand corner, to stop ball hangs. The 90 degree corner goes into the corner, with the longer edge coming down the forward left hand edge

The first image is of a virtual pin, but it shows the plastic clearer than I can find on a real machine

MM1 (resized).jpg

MM2 (resized).jpg

Really like the custom paint job - the castle rocks! Well done

I would look at the edge of the PF as the originals will have manufacturer stamps and dates - such as CCC (Churchill) or maybe TAG (Thomas A Grant), LS (Lenc-Smith) or SP (Sun Process). I'm just not sure whether Churchill made all the original playfields or whether WMS commissioned PFs from several manufacturers (like they did earlier in the 90's but that was when they were making 12-20k machines of each game).

The reproduction playfields won't have the stamps on the edges and will more likely have a licensing sticker on the playfield on the apron area (as per the pics below)

MM PF1 (resized).JPGMM PF2 (resized).JPG

I suspect the drawbridge doesn't go up fully by design, as when in multiball you can actually get a ball caught between the portcullis gate and the drawbridge - so if the drawbridge was to go up fully it'd jam the ball and potentially damage the drawbridge gears or the portcullis. That said your drawbridge does seem to be much lower than mine - maybe it's been stripped and not aligned correctly when reassembled??

I'm not sure what the coloured thing is at the bottom right of the PF but it's the same as the repro PF Marco was selling (and it's not on the original PFs)

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/36-50059

MM (resized).png

Cool - always learning more and like how you and others share your wealth of pinball knowledge.

Thanks

Yep Micro PF's have the Genuine B/W label in the bottom right hand corner and doesn't has the registration & ink-level test area that Coyote mentioned

https://mircoplayfields.com/en/p/medieval-madness-mirco-playfield

Edit:

Based off this For Sale thread https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/archive/25906, I'd say the PF your pictured is an IPB

Nice line up mate and welcome to the club!

CGC initially released the MMR (Standard) and MMR Limited Edition (LE) but more recently came out with the Classic Edition (CE), Special Edition (SE) & Royal Edition (RE). Below are the difference between the latest MMR versions. Note - the WMS original is similar to the Standard and Classic Editions (except these have colour DMDs) however the electronics between the MM and MMR are totally different

pasted_image (resized).png

Not sure if there is a matrix comparing the original CGC MMR (Std & LE) features against the new releases (CE, SE, RE) - however only the newer SE and RE have the XL displays. Also if you want NIB then you can only get the 3 new releases (I think they are still available).

Here is the differences b/n the Std and LE models

LIMITED EDITION (LE)
Includes Shaker Motor
Gold or Black or Silver Trim
Double Playfield Hard Coat
Limited to 1000 Games
Game # & Plaque
Finished Backbox Edges
Plywood Bottom (stronger more solid)

STANDARD (STD)
Shaker Motor at optional Cost
Silver Trim
Double Playfield Hard Coat (this was a change for STD)
Not Limited
No Game # or Plaque
Unfinished (as original) backbox Edges
Original MDF Bottom

As to which one is better - it really depends what you like ... for me it's the WMS MM because I love the original machines.

Yes

WMS = Williams

Here you go - measurements are in mm. The left arm (17mm) is at an angle, going behind the bracket leg - this is what makes it a one way gate

I don't believe my wire is original however the shape is the same as the repo ones for sale

Merlin's gate wire (resized).JPG

Merlin's gate (resized).JPG

https://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product/medieval-madness-cabinet-art-set/

I get some some variation on the VUK, mostly clean ... sometimes slower such that it doesn't have enough momentum to push the orbit switch down (needs a nudge); and other times it comes out so fast it bounces off the orbit ball guide and go SDTM (those I'm not so keen on). 9 out of 10 times I can just catch the ball on the left flipper.

Maybe just check the coil sleeve and the top of the plunger armature

I thought much the same when I first got my MM however there is the potential during multiball to destroy the castle and get another ball caught between the portcullis (the castle gate) coming down and the drawbridge going up - I've had it happen to me. You then have a mild panic as you see the drawbridge closing on the ball and wondering whether it's going to bust anything. Hence, I believe this is the reason that the drawbridge is designed this way and doesn't close fully due to the slop/play in the mech, as if it did and there was a ball trapped then there is a high chance that something would break.

OEM?? No the original machine came with the standard stainless steel finish

mm (resized).jpg

Very cool - well done! Love the dragon and the lighting - looks awesome!

The wire is 12-7385.1 and is part of the Ball Guide #8 assembly (A-21736). PPS have the ball guide #8 bracket (04-10757.3) but unfortunately doesn't have the wire listed, nor does any other pinball supplier.

I used the parts list from ipdb.org to find it, as it shows the hierarchy of the assemblies/components. Note that 12-7385.1 doesn't have the best description to help you find it when using https://www.moll.no/pinball/jsparts/MM.php

Just ensure the switch's actuator wire is not getting snagged on the edge of the slot in the PF - my orbit switches can occasionally not register a shot, it's just a matter of adjusting the switch position or the wire itself.

Interesting - mine doesn't have it either. Of course I'm now going to get a ball hang there ... Do you know the part number for the metal bracket and plastic?

EDIT - oops, just saw them in your earlier post (thanks for posting these)!

Also your plastic above the wings (to stop hangs) should be turned 180 degrees, so that the protruding piece blocks gap above the claw. Not sure if you addressed this in your rebuild

MM dragon plastic (resized).jpg

Yes mine was originally that way, which always seemed weird to me as to why the plastic was shaped that particular way, yet it doesn't sit nicely on the wings and the protruded plastic doesn't serve a purpose. When I saw pics (possibly on Pinside) of it around the other way I tried it on mine and it snugly fits into place and the protrude plastic serves a purpose. I suspect that this was how it was originally designed however somewhere between design and manufacturing it's intended position was lost - pure speculation on my behalf

I've had it land on top of the castle but not the dragon - I'm guessing there's a fair bit of variability because of the trolls popping up and potentially launching air balls

Nothing wrong with that

Is that the complete WPC collection?

I've got a drawbridge issue that I'm trying to troubleshoot - in test mode if I run the drawbridge test it intermittently works. Checking the output voltage from the Motor Driver EMI board to the motor I get 13V (12V Unreg) which drops to 1.5V when the motor runs (or should run). Sometimes the motor will run as expected however other times it fails to turn - yet a gentle turn of the pinion gear on the motor will start the motor. Here is video of the issue showing the motor failing to start properly 3 times but then correctly starts on the 4th time - the voltage drop seems to be consistent regardless whether the motor starts or not - is the issue the motor or on the EMI board?? Any suggestions or tests I can do to determine where the issue is? Thanks

No ColorDMD or other mods ... and I haven't done any work recently on the machine. Re-seated the Power Driver board 12v connections to the PF and checked the voltage at the Power Driver board and the Motor EMI board - both are showing just over 13v

I don't believe the mech is binding as the drawbridge smoothly moves up & down and I can spin the motor gear relatively easily but will inspect the mech a bit closer. I ran a power separate connection from J138 direct to the motor EMI board, with the same result so confirmed the issue is not upstream. While I don't have a proper bench 12VDC supply I should be able to set up something suitable to directly test the motor. Thanks for your help - much appreciated

Thanks bobukcat - I picked up a bench DC Power Supply to make my life easy and confirmed the motor doesn't always turn when powered on, yet the gears move easily and the gate smoothly moves up & down. Luckily a couple of the local pinball suppliers have the motors in stock, so I'll throw one in and see how it goes.

This thread is more the original B/W MM - probably better to ask on the MMR owners thread https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-owners-club-all-things-mmr-discussed

I've not yet battled the kingdom but willing to give your technique a try lol

Congrats!! I think you need to go out of town more often

Dan Forden who did the music and sound design for MM, was also the composer for the music and sound effects in Mortal Kombat. You can also get a "Toasty" callout on the right ramp as well

The "Fatality" references (Mortal Kombat was owned by B/W/Midway) also appears in other machines such as CFTBL and WCS94

They are the official releases - there is a 1.09 unofficial release (home use only - free play) on IPDB that provides the below fixes

Changes since version 1.0:

This game is now configured for an 8 meg ROM.

When a troll was hit during the smack-a-troll grace period,
the state of the rule was not being reset properly. This has
been corrected.

Video mode now takes precedence over smack-a-troll when
both are qualified to start from Merlin's Magic (Smack-A-Troll
is qualified at Merlin's Magic after Super Jets is started
for the third time).

When smack-a-troll finishes, the total points scored for the
feature are displayed.

Video mode lamp effect now displays the shoot again lamp, so
the player gets some feedback when he/she collects the video
mode extra ball.

Scored Merlin targets now carry over from ball to ball.

Added a cheer sound to the High Score display effects.

The 1 coin buy in adjustment no longer appears in the pricing
adjustment menu.

Changed the video mode cow qualification count (launching
the cow from the catapult) from 3 to 2.

Troll lock and troll eject combo awards (the ones that award
troll bombs) were being given out during multiball. This has
been corrected.

The High Score title for the multiball madness champion was
being plotted incorrectly. This has been corrected.

Ball search of the tower lock post was causing switch hits
(and thus, awards) on the tower exit switch when a ball was
stuck in the tower area. This has been corrected.

Fixed a bug in custom message that would cause some messages
to be displayed incorrectly.

No the Sound ROMs haven't changed from 1.0 that you already have.

The games ROM chip that you'll change on the CPU board (lower left side of the backbox) will be labelled and easily identifiable. It's chip G10 on page 2-8/2-9 of the manual (you can download the manual from IPDB)

Yes it's a one way gate. I'd adjust the gate such that when it is down there is less room between the gate and the saucer hole.

There's no washers under the gate bracket but post a pic of the catapult area and maybe another with a ball positioned under that gate such that we can compare it to our games or maybe pick something up that is not correctly installed.

This thread is more focused on the original B/W MM - might be worth asking on the MMR owners thread https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-owners-club-all-things-mmr-discussed

That just blocks balls that don't make the ramp coming make down and going SDTM. It forces those balls to the right side of the ramp such that they return to the flipper

Another possibility if you can't find a switch registering when bumping the PF as per bobukcat's suggestion, would be you may have a shorted switch diode causing multiple switch triggers. To test this, go into switch test mode and trigger each switch on the right orbit (lower & upper), the roll-over lanes at the top and pop bumpers switches - watch the switch matrix display on the DMD to see if when triggering a single switch whether multiple switches are showing up on the display. Switch 58 is the Damsel switch in the tower.

Is the gate wire hitting the plastic where the red arrow is? One way to confirm this would be to remove the wire from the gate to see if the issue is associated with the wire or the something else as you are now suspecting. Also looking closer at that pic where the green arrow is, is that cover a separate piece of plastic (not part of the original plastic)?

MM catapult (resized).jpg

Here is a pic of mine which show a very different plastic set up - see the gap from the gate to the plastic to allow the gate to swing up out of the way

MM Catapult (resized).jpg

Also here is my damsel alignment - definitely looks like your damsel and tower are rotated (note how my damsel is square on to the front of the game)

MM Damsel (resized).jpg

LOL yes I noticed that having taken the photo - and here's me thinking that my game was missing that plastic (I just needed to look for it elsewhere). It's not the one that goes between the wings, but between the dragon and the wireform (based on what others have posted)

MM dragon (resized).jpg

That's what is listed in both the manual and the parts list; and also what's on my machine

03-6035-7 wafer-jet bumper black

Got any pics and details on how you connected up the lighting?

Which were??

Arhh sorry - now I understand.

The trolls use the upper flipper circuits, so that explains why both of those stopped working as they are related.

When you reseated some of the connectors, have you misaligned the ribbon cable as it is easy to do?

If you go into switch test mode, what switches are closed on the DMD display? Also test all your switches, are they activating correctly or are you getting either multiple switches being activated or are switches activating multiple times?

Green suits the game and looks much better

A few people have installed the topper, although not using the MMR board that the topper comes with.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/-medieval-madness-owners-club-the-door-is-open-cmon-in/page/13#post-6354653
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/-medieval-madness-owners-club-the-door-is-open-cmon-in/page/13#post-6354513
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/-medieval-madness-owners-club-the-door-is-open-cmon-in/page/13#post-6354616

I don't have toppers on any of my machines but think this looks great - really tempted!! Damn you!

Oh and the fact that we'll be able to integrate the lighting using stumblor new boards might me what pushes me over the edge ...

WMS changed the drawbridge mech design during production with the newer design being easier to access/repair/replace the motor & gears (both are detailed in the manual). Not sure the improved “thicker” portcullis/gate repro design is necessarily needed for home use, it’d depend upon the condition of yours as to whether to replace.

I’d suggest inspecting where/why the drawbridge is get stuck - you can disconnect the drawbridge from the gearbox shaft and move it by hand. This will help determine if a mechanical issue with the actual drawbridge or with the motor/gears. I’d suspect damage to the bottom actual drawbridge from the ball

Nice work Kurt - looks fantastic!

Is it predrilled and dimpled the same as the original or would you need to make a template off the old one to convert the MMR PF?

I’ve seen a post where someone put a washer on the cabinet bolts the PF sits on. The washer sits between the PF bracket and the cabinet, in doing so it slightly spreads the cabinet. The thicker the washer the more the spread however you would be applying a horizontal force on the PF bracket and screws that hold the bracket to the underside of the PF, so I wouldn’t be trying to spread it too much