For an original MM, not a remake. Yes. Wire the new one the same as the old one. White wire to black end of diode, green wire to a lug, silver band end of diode to other lug.

The remake uses a different connector and no diode.

LTG : )

Then you have a problem elsewhere if your troll is wired right. A new one won't help.

Look at the switch matrix in your manual. A broken wire on the same row or column will kill other switches.

LTG : )

Not rocket science. A leaf blade switch, when closed together creates a continuous electrical circuit. Put a meter on it and see if it works. If so, then be sure it is wired right. Compare to the other working troll. And check for broken wires inside the wire casing you can't see.

Diode has long leads. Stick that on first, then bend the lead over the lug a bit, stick the end of the wire in the hole on the lug or wrap around the lug/diode lead. Flow solder on diode lead/wire/lug at the same time.

LTG : )

Cut wires to working one. Or check LEDs in eyes and then wiring to other one. Your choice.

LTG : )

The original had a hacked ROM if you could find it that unbleeped the F word.

Since the remake copied the Williams stuff and not hacks, and doesn't have ROMs, no unbleeped F word.

LTG : )
Disclaimer : The bleeped version is funnier anyway.

https://mantispinball.com/product/medieval-madness-protector-set/

LTG : )

A couple things to check. Has the troll carriage separated from the collar holding it to the plunger ? Remove the plunger, it is two pieces held together by a roll pin, is the pin sticking out and dragging in the coil sleeve. Is the coil sleeve cracked or broken ?

LTG : )

No.

You'd have to update MM if you want a shaker to work like in MMR. But there isn't an update for MM so you could do this. On MMR, it's in the CGC software, not in the Williams.

LTG : )

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-9681.6 A whole moat goes there under the playfield. Not a broken one.

LTG : )

And looks like everybody is out of them.

LTG : )

Replace the bad opto.

Tests - Switch Edge - Pass something between each opto one at a time to figure out the bad one.

LTG : )

Yes. Wire in wrong spot or diode on backwards, or a short to wiring, can make weird switch matrix issues. Your tilt is on the switch matrix.

Compare to the other troll. White wire and black end of diode to a lug, green wire to a lug. Silver band end of a diode to a lug.

LTG : )

If problem started right after that repair. I'd start there.

LTG : )

Eyes work better. To get a DMM in there would be more work than looking at the thing and wouldn't say if you got the wires right. Look at the other troll or every stand up target in your game. White wire black end of diode there, green wire there, silver band end of the diode there. Same on every switch except the stripes on the wires may be different colors but the base color of white or green is the same.

LTG : )

No.

Unplug the troll head switch connector. If problem goes away you screwed something up.

LTG : )

Okay to play. Won't hurt anything. Might see an occasional switch matrix error like a switch register you didn't hit.

LTG : )

Look down at the metal plate holding towers on. Remove four screws. Whole base and towers lifts up and off. Then you can check if it's binding, flashing on the plastic, needs a stronger spring, etc.

LTG : )

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/medieval-madness-led-kit Comet has one.

LTG : )

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Vehicles_for_Moving_Pinball_Machines This my help.

Top right of this thread, is a search box for this thread. It must be in there by now.

LTG : )

Tests - Switch Edge - roll a ball over each switch in the lane back there and see if they work.

LTG : )

Yes.

Shouldn't go on with the flasher. Something wired wrong ? Connectors mixed up ? Though I suspect if it really goes on with the flasher the 20 volt zap would blow the 6 volt bulb out instantly.

Could be. Bad bulb ? Bad socket ( did you measure AC power to it ) if no power a break in the wiring from driver board to the socket.

LTG : )

Youtube. Lots of short videos.

LTG : )

Solder it on.

LTG : )

I'd lift the playfield an undo the connectors underneath and then fish the wires up through the holes in the playfield.

But that's just me.

LTG : )

Yes. I've done it on an original and on a remake.

Some you have to wiggle, turn, and push. And one at a time, not all at once.

LTG : )

Your game was assembled at one point. Somebody got the connectors through.

LTG : )

Or remove the whole ramp. Clean thoroughly. I like 409. Rinse good. Dry thoroughly. Stick the ramp back in. Leave the switch attached.

If you are worried about the switch. Blow it dry or leave set over night.

LTG : )

Before anyone asks. Flashers - remove the cover, remove the bulb. Wash and dry the rest. No need to remove it from what it is attached to.

LTG : )

Check the other troll. Maybe a wire for troll lights type mod.

LTG : )

No idea. I never had that mod. Hopefully it broke off and wasn't cut off because it was blowing stuff up.

LTG : )

Board on back of playfield ? Lift playfield up and lean back. Remove screws from along the bottom edge.

LTG : )

No idea on part number.

It's one of these - https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-rollover-sub-microswitch-5647-12693-19.html

On the new one get your wires in the same spots and diode facing the right direction ( I use 1N4004 or 1N4007 )

LTG : )

No. MM doesn't have the programming for MMR display.

LTG : )

When new from Williams and CGC, pointy end goes to the rear.

LTG : )

DSC00577 (resized).JPG

I'd do that.

LTG : )

In commercial use. Yes. On top of dragon, on top of towers, over the whole castle, hardly a place a flying ball hasn't gotten to during the years.

LTG : )

If it was working before you worked on it. It's something you did. Go over your work carefully. Be sure you didn't mix up troll head connectors with the up/down connector. Check wires and diode for shorts too inside the metal cage.

LTG : )

Look at them - the solder or lugs shorting to metal ?

Is the left up switch stuck closed ?

Did you just screw on new faces or did you do wiring too ?

LTG : )

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mm-flippers-and-trolls-not-working-

LTG : )

Do you have a color DMD in the game ? If so unplug power to it and play the game blind. See if that helps your 12 volts.

LTG : )

Increase the playfield pitch to slow the ball down a little.

Be sure the foam pad behind each target is in good shape, and targets aren't bent and leaning back.

LTG : )

The ball will be slower going up hill towards things that can send it airborne.

LTG : )

I don't go by those levels. Cheap, and not always accurate, even if facing the right direction.

I use an inclinometer. 6 1/2 degrees.

LTG : )

Weak shot or not shooting up the wireform right ? Clean the wireform. Watch the wear spot on the wirefor where the ball might be hitting it. It should go up the wireform and not at it. Your wireform might need adjusting.

LTG : )

No way to disable it.

LTG : )

Circled in red. The ROM has a notch on it, get it in the same spot as marked on the board. Don't go by the label.

LTG : )

cpu (resized).jpg

This is an example on the notch on the ROM and on the board.

LTG : )

closeup-ic-polarity (resized).jpg

Your game is correct. Check your manual.

LTG : )

Please post a picture of it.

LTG : )

You are correct. It goes in U6.

I'm sorry for the confusion.

LTG : )

It was designed to dribble out.

I've found lowering the left side of the whole assembly makes the ball sit in there better and pop out a little better. Under the playfield, loosen the screws holding the whole assembly to the playfield. Stick a fat washer on the left side between the metal plate and playfield. Tighten the screws.

LTG : )

Grease the gears. Something plastic compatible.

Be sure the front pivots points aren't peened over from ball hits. If they are, remove the unit, take of the drawbridge, pound/file them flat again. A drop of oil on each side.

LTG : )

Did you try turning them around ?

LTG : )

It doesn't have to be on a screw. I'd do to the left of them between the metal plate and playfield.

Ball kicks out to the right. Just sits to the left a little better to get a better hit.

LTG : )

Under the playfield unplug the connector for the troll face switch. Then remove the hex head screw holding the troll carriage to the plunger. Wiggle them apart. Lower playfield. Back up on top lift troll carriage up and out, lean to the left so the arm that trips the up/down switch clears the playfield.

LTG: )

trollback (resized).JPG

trollbolt (resized).jpg

With flashers it looks spookier with green flashes on the castle front.

LTG : )

Green flashers ?

LTG : )

No.

The original software won't support it.

LTG : )

Check the front two pivot points on the bottom of the drawbridge. Ball hits peen them. Pound/file flat if that is happening.

LTG : )

Separate power source - does motor spin ?

Meter - does motor get power ?

LTG : )

If it's not getting power, spins doesn't matter.

LTG : )

Do you have a meter ? Is there power at the motor ?

LTG : )

I uncrated mine when new and have never moved them. It came with the movable outlane posts all the way back.

LTG : )

It is glued in place.

LTG : )

I'd try raising the wireform a little to slow the ball down.

LTG : )

https://www.planetarypinball.com/ Try them. Or ask if they'll be available when CGC makes more MMR's.

LTG : )

If the plunger that knocks them is working, then the base of the biggest tower is broken.

Four screws hold the towers base down. Easy to lift off. Inspect, and repair if needed.

LTG : )

Yes. 4 screws ( where the red circle are ) and the whole shebang lifts right off.

The towers have springs, axles, and clips, holding things together.

LTG : )

1dfbdab6af6239cb89eb50fdf7ed2976a53dd505 (resized).jpg

If the base is broken on your big tower, here is a complete one - https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/04-10942.2

I didn't search for just the base.

LTG : )

Don't recall it. I'd check out HEP restorations. Maybe Chris did it ?

LTG : )

Have you searched the posts here from a Pinsider who scratch built 2 MM's right before the remakes came out ?

Might be good to study if you haven't found them.

LTG : )

His wouldn't work with GI AC.

LTG : )

Message he sent me maybe.

LTG : )

Dirty opto, flaky opto, or balls not rolling down the ball trough.

LTG : )

Voltage test points on driver board good ?

Power to driver board and leaving driver board good ?

Fuse F106 - put an ohm meter on it and see if it's drawing ohms, or put a jumper across briefly and see if the lights come on.

LTG : )

That or poor solder joints on the opto. And try cleaning them. And VUK be sure the thing hitting the ball isn't going the whole way back down and partially blocking the opto.

LTG : )

Unplug power to the color DMD.

Then play a game blind. If it plays good then I'd get a separate power supply for the color DMD.

LTG : )

To black end of diode lug.

LTG : )

Here are pictures of mine. Hard to tell in your picture but it looks like you have the white wire on the silver band end of the diode instead of the black end of the diode.

LTG : )

DSC00829 (resized).JPG

DSC00830 (resized).JPG

Yes.

If you wire it right, yes.

LTG : )

Should be a 1N4001. But I use 1N4004 or 1N4007. 1N4001 is lower voltage, ( all of these work fine on your switch matrix ) So I stick to 1N4004 or 1N4007, which are higher voltage for coils. That way I won't accidentally get a 1N4001 on a coil at some point.

LTG : )

No. 1N4001 is okay for switches, don't ever use on a coil.

If you wired it up wrong or got the diode on backwards, that makes sense.

Compare to your other troll. White wire and black end of diode to a lug, green wire to a lug, silver band end of diode to a lug.

LTG : )

Not unless you like other stuff firing for no reason. Won't hurt anything. Game just won't be quite right.

LTG : )

Diode DOESN'T matter. if you used a 1N4001, it is okay on a troll switch. 1N4001 is bad on a coil. You'll blow stuff up.

If the catapult was okay before you worked on the troll. Guaranteed the troll is wired wrong or silver band end of the diode is on the wrong end.

LTG : )

Can you post a picture of the one you are working on ?

LTG : )

You mean like if there were divots in the bottom of the ball trough or balls magnetized and not rolling into position right ?

I'm sure a few have seen this.

LTG : )

Only thing I can think of is the VUK bracket itself. Check where the ball sits in there for cracks or breaks.

LTG : )

This. Silver band is on the wrong end. Make the diode facing the same way as the switch next to it.

LTG : )

The whole assembly - loosen it under the playfield and shim the left side between bracket and playfield - tighten the screws. That way the ball sits in there better.

I added a piece of drop dead foam along the rear of the hole, so the ball sits over the plunger better.

It's designed to just piddle out of there. But you can get it 100%.

LTG : )

Both flipper button opto boards plugged in ? Power to the right flipper button opto board ?

LTG : )

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems

As in pull and check with a meter ?

LTG : )

Cool. You have a meter. Power at the bulb socket ? Power leaving the driver board ? It's AC, hot to common.

Narrow down where you lose it.

LTG : )

It's normal, doesn't go anywhere.

LTG : )

It hooks onto a Mars stackerless bill acceptor. Plugs in on the bottom.

LTG : )

Here is a poor picture of it in an old Mars VFM2 bill acceptor.

The end where the wires are crimped together I stuff inside the black box on the end with the electronics.

LTG : )

DSC00893 (resized).JPG

Check the switch in there, see if it's stuck down or anything.