(Topic ID: 72263)

*-*Medieval Madness Owners Club*-*-> The door is open ... c'mon in !!


By Thor-NL

6 years ago



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  • 461 posts
  • 107 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 days ago by Boof-Ed
  • Topic is favorited by 82 Pinsiders

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There are 461 posts in this topic. You are on page 9 of 10.
#401 3 months ago
Quoted from jbovenzi:

Ok, I am confused and look to Pinside for wisdom and guidance (with my flame underwear on),
Does Williams (original) Medieval Madness have a Midnight Madness mode or not?
I have seen contradictions on this, so asking here.
I can't find anything in the manual about it.
Thanks heaps!

I don’t know if anyone ever answered this for you, but no, no Midnight Madness in MM.

4 weeks later
#402 86 days ago

Found this plastic at the bottom of my Medieval Madness. Is is part of the game and where does it go if it is?

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#403 86 days ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Found this plastic at the bottom of my Medieval Madness. Is is part of the game and where does it go if it is?[quoted image]

It goes in the top left hand corner, to stop ball hangs. The 90 degree corner goes into the corner, with the longer edge coming down the forward left hand edge

The first image is of a virtual pin, but it shows the plastic clearer than I can find on a real machine

MM1 (resized).jpgMM2 (resized).jpg
#404 86 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

It goes in the top left hand corner, over the top of the ramp. The 90 degree corner goes into the corner, with the longer edge coming down the forward left hand edge

Got it thanks!

#405 86 days ago

My restoration is nearly done. Castle custom painted and put back in.
Dragon painted too

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#406 86 days ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

My restoration is nearly done. Castle custom painted and put back in.
Dragon painted too[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looking good! Did you do the painting yourself?

#407 86 days ago
Quoted from Micky:

Looking good! Did you do the painting yourself?

No. I have a friend that paints Subbuteo figures and he did it for me. I’m not that good I’m afraid

#408 85 days ago

That castle looks great!

#409 85 days ago

Really like the custom paint job - the castle rocks! Well done

#410 83 days ago

Just found out there is a swear rom for Lord Howard Hurtz. Does anyone have a lead on where to get that?

#411 83 days ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Just found out there is a swear rom for Lord Howard Hurtz. Does anyone have a lead on where to get that?

If it's not at IPDB, let me know; I have a copy.

4 weeks later
#412 54 days ago

I thought I would share this. I made a mini MM pinball machine for a co-worker

IMG_2429 (resized).jpegIMG_2430 (resized).jpeg
#413 54 days ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

I thought I would share this. I made a mini MM pinball machine for a co-worker

I need one of these for my desk! How much shipped to DE?

Rob

#414 54 days ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

I thought I would share this. I made a mini MM pinball machine for a co-worker[quoted image][quoted image]

That's impressive. Even got the little start button.

#415 54 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Really like the custom paint job - the castle rocks! Well done

Yes that castle looks terrific...making me think I should get to work on mine...

#416 53 days ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

I thought I would share this. I made a mini MM pinball machine for a co-worker[quoted image][quoted image]

Are you selling these?

Great work!

#417 52 days ago
Quoted from JoinTheCirqus:

Yes that castle looks terrific...making me think I should get to work on mine...

Thanks for the compliment! Here is the game fully complete

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#418 46 days ago

Even though I don't own one, I recently had a MM owner asked me to design some custom flipper toppers based upon experience with my other mods. As a result, I thought I would offer them to the group. The toppers are 3D printed at high resolution using high quality filament. The background is textured with a colored handle and blade on top. All colors are customizable by the purchaser based upon the filament colors I have. While there are too many colors for me to list, some good alternatives for the background include purple, galaxy black (flat black with silvers speckles), white marble (a light gray marble/stone looking color), gloss black, or whatever else I have.

I'm selling these for $20 per pair including US shipping. If interested in purchasing, please PM me.

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1 week later
#419 39 days ago

MM owners , I have an original MM and one troll sometimes comes up , sometimes half way . My tech said eventually the bottom portion bends
Which needs to be replaced . This game is a mint original? Would you consider just buying the bracelet complete $99 each
From Marco , I also have light up trolls with LEDs are those a pain to put in ?

Love the original but I did grab a Royal edition , but I thought it would be cool to have both .

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#420 39 days ago
Quoted from whitey:

MM owners , I have an original MM and one troll sometimes comes up , sometimes half way . My tech said eventually the bottom portion bends
Which needs to be replaced . This game is a mint original? Would you consider just buying the bracelet complete $99 each
From Marco , I also have light up trolls with LEDs are those a pain to put in ?
Love the original but I did grab a Royal edition , but I thought it would be cool to have both .[quoted image]

whitey , I recently got the Williams original MM. I found that Planetary Pinball has the brackets and the Troll assembly. The same tech that told you, probably told me as well that the brackets get really stressed.

They also have the partial assembly: http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-A-22034

Hope that this helps.

#421 39 days ago

Yes it does , I remember him bending the bottom back to 90% but did say eventually it needs to be replaced

#422 37 days ago

To the thread, I have found that I am stumped. Long post, but trying to channel my inner Engineer by providing all details that I can think of.

Original Williams Medieval Madness game that I am shopping. Game was working fine before I started playfield shop, took the pf down to the wood, placed a Makrolon protector on it and reassembled the pf.

When I got the game, the left troll was not working, but assemblies were replaced by the Planetary Pinball brackets, so both Trolls were functioning. I also replaced both flipper assemblies with new brackets/kits. The game has been routed since its purchase in 1997, so i felt justified in replacing Troll brackets and flippers.

After top shopping was done, game was working fine again. I could play games to completion without any issue.

One day I saw that the left flipper was not working during a game. Stopped game immediately and saw that the flipper coil had locked on. Flipper coil was burnt, so no more playing before I diagnosed this. I see no burnt connectors but fuse F116 (+50 volts 4.0 A, left flipper) was blown as well.

My diagnostics told me that the suspect transistors Q89, TIP102 and Q87 TIP36C could be blown for the coil to lock on. Replaced, Q89, Q87 and F116. Left Flipper coil is also replaced of course. No binding in flipper after replacing coil, it moves freely. Left EOS switch checked in Switch Test and works fine.

Now I have the following: game plays, as I turn on the game, start button works to start a game and game plays normally (as far as I can tell). Right flipper does its job and flips. Pushing the left flipper button causes the game to reset. Game shuts down and reboots.

Left flipper button when pressed not in a game does nothing. It is only when the flippers are energized during a game does the left flipper take it out.

I have read (but not exercised) the list of WPC Resets as suggested many times on this site: https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets

I am guessing that the left flipper during game play is shorting the 5 Volt to the MPU, but as the Fliptronics circuit is on the WPC-95 Power Board, I am at a loss to figure out what is going on. Left flipper wired directly to the power board if I have that correctly.

Any hints, threats, or "you dummy, this..." are appreciated to help me isolate this problem. Guide me towards some place else to follow other steps if that works for you.

Thanks!

#423 37 days ago

I would start be finding out what it's not...

If the game resets in Flipper Test, then it's not anything to do with the button wiring.
Resolver the wires from the coil, and see if it still happens. If yes, then it's a short, and not because of the coil. If no, then it's something with the coil.

..and work your way down from there.

#424 36 days ago
Quoted from jbovenzi:

To the thread, I have found that I am stumped. Long post, but trying to channel my inner Engineer by providing all details that I can think of.
Original Williams Medieval Madness game that I am shopping. Game was working fine before I started playfield shop, took the pf down to the wood, placed a Makrolon protector on it and reassembled the pf.
When I got the game, the left troll was not working, but assemblies were replaced by the Planetary Pinball brackets, so both Trolls were functioning. I also replaced both flipper assemblies with new brackets/kits. The game has been routed since its purchase in 1997, so i felt justified in replacing Troll brackets and flippers.
After top shopping was done, game was working fine again. I could play games to completion without any issue.
One day I saw that the left flipper was not working during a game. Stopped game immediately and saw that the flipper coil had locked on. Flipper coil was burnt, so no more playing before I diagnosed this. I see no burnt connectors but fuse F116 (+50 volts 4.0 A, left flipper) was blown as well.
My diagnostics told me that the suspect transistors Q89, TIP102 and Q87 TIP36C could be blown for the coil to lock on. Replaced, Q89, Q87 and F116. Left Flipper coil is also replaced of course. No binding in flipper after replacing coil, it moves freely. Left EOS switch checked in Switch Test and works fine.
Now I have the following: game plays, as I turn on the game, start button works to start a game and game plays normally (as far as I can tell). Right flipper does its job and flips. Pushing the left flipper button causes the game to reset. Game shuts down and reboots.
Left flipper button when pressed not in a game does nothing. It is only when the flippers are energized during a game does the left flipper take it out.
I have read (but not exercised) the list of WPC Resets as suggested many times on this site: https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets
I am guessing that the left flipper during game play is shorting the 5 Volt to the MPU, but as the Fliptronics circuit is on the WPC-95 Power Board, I am at a loss to figure out what is going on. Left flipper wired directly to the power board if I have that correctly.
Any hints, threats, or "you dummy, this..." are appreciated to help me isolate this problem. Guide me towards some place else to follow other steps if that works for you.
Thanks!

make sure the wires you soldered onto the new flipper coil are the right way around. If not you are shorting the +50V through the diode instead of the coil.
ie, the diode is backwards compared to the voltage polarity connected to the coil. This of course is assuming the new coil had the 2x diodes installed which I guess it does. Otherwise install diodes (the correct way around) as this will also cause noise issues that can cause the game to reset due to voltage spikes.
The manual does have the correct flipper wiring colours etc to follow.

good luck.

#425 36 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

I would start be finding out what it's not...
If the game resets in Flipper Test, then it's not anything to do with the button wiring.
Resolver the wires from the coil, and see if it still happens. If yes, then it's a short, and not because of the coil. If no, then it's something with the coil.
..and work your way down from there.

coyote thanks. The game does not reset in Flipper test. Right flipper does work fine on both Power and Hold. Left flipper does nothing on both tests. However, in switch test, pushing left flipper button resets the game.

#426 36 days ago
Quoted from centre-drain:

make sure the wires you soldered onto the new flipper coil are the right way around. If not you are shorting the +50V through the diode instead of the coil.
ie, the diode is backwards compared to the voltage polarity connected to the coil. This of course is assuming the new coil had the 2x diodes installed which I guess it does. Otherwise install diodes (the correct way around) as this will also cause noise issues that can cause the game to reset due to voltage spikes.
The manual does have the correct flipper wiring colours etc to follow.
good luck.

centre-drain also thank you. Coils are both brand new from Marco. Diodes are installed correctly. I will triple check the wiring again to verify.

#427 34 days ago

Back to troubleshooting for me. Triple checked the wires on the left flipper and found that they were in the correct position, but the Yellow-Blue wire seemed a bit mangled. So, I cut back on that wire, inserted/soldered a new yellow wire in its place.

From Left to right: Red-blue, Yellow-blue, and Orange-blue.

The progress is that instead of the game resetting, the F116 4.0 Amp fuse now blows when the game is in play and the left flipper is energized. Does not blow when game is turned on, but only when there is power to the flipper.

IMG_0721 (resized).jpegIMG_0724 (resized).jpeg
#428 34 days ago
Quoted from jbovenzi:

Back to troubleshooting for me. Triple checked the wires on the left flipper and found that they were in the correct position, but the Yellow-Blue wire seemed a bit mangled. So, I cut back on that wire, inserted/soldered a new yellow wire in its place.
From Left to right: Red-blue, Yellow-blue, and Orange-blue.
The progress is that instead of the game resetting, the F116 4.0 Amp fuse now blows when the game is in play and the left flipper is energized. Does not blow when game is turned on, but only when there is power to the flipper.[quoted image][quoted image]

Your flipper coil has diodes. Not all flipper coils are created the same. Check that the lead wires to the windings match your colors and where the power wires are supposed to be.

The coil terminal with two visible winding leads should have the Red/x color. The terminal with the single thicker winding wire should have the Yel/x wire. And the terminal with the thin winding should have the Org/x wire.

Check diodes. With wires disconnected, check for backwards current flow.

Like I also.mentioned before, disconnect the Red/x wire, and see if fuse still blows.

#429 32 days ago

MM original owners ? I pulled these out of my cabinet after ordering new mechs for my trolls. Do these look complete ?

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#430 32 days ago

Light up trolls

#431 30 days ago

Hello ? Anyone install these ?

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#432 30 days ago

I have an original MM. When the trolls pop up the sound goes off. The sound comes back on when they are done. Anyone ever experience this and any ideas what could cause it? Any help is appreciated.

#433 30 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Your flipper coil has diodes. Not all flipper coils are created the same. Check that the lead wires to the windings match your colors and where the power wires are supposed to be.
The coil terminal with two visible winding leads should have the Red/x color. The terminal with the single thicker winding wire should have the Yel/x wire. And the terminal with the thin winding should have the Org/x wire.
Check diodes. With wires disconnected, check for backwards current flow.
Like I also.mentioned before, disconnect the Red/x wire, and see if fuse still blows.

Thanks to all. Turns out that my flipper issue was due to driver and pre-driver transistors. Replaced them and quadruple checked flipper wiring.

I appreciate the advice here!

#434 30 days ago
Quoted from jbovenzi:

Thanks to all. Turns out that my flipper issue was due to driver and pre-driver transistors. Replaced them and quadruple checked flipper wiring.
I appreciate the advice here!

Good, good! Glad you got it!

#435 30 days ago

Is this Club for orig owners or both orig and fake?

#436 30 days ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Is this Club for orig owners or both orig and fake?

Primary original only as there is a separate thread for the remake. Search for MMR and you will find that thread.

#437 30 days ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Is this Club for orig owners or both orig and fake?

I own both versions , I’m a B/W fan but
I will say CGC builds a bulletproof game
I wouldn’t call it a Fake
Remake yes

#438 29 days ago
Quoted from whitey:

I own both versions , I’m a B/W fan but
I will say CGC builds a bulletproof game
I wouldn’t call it a Fake
Remake yes

Ok gotcha. I have a orig so I’m in the correct club.

#439 24 days ago

Anyone know how to spot the difference between an original NOS playfield, and an IPB or other reproductions?

#440 23 days ago

I would look at the edge of the PF as the originals will have manufacturer stamps and dates - such as CCC (Churchill) or maybe TAG (Thomas A Grant), LS (Lenc-Smith) or SP (Sun Process). I'm just not sure whether Churchill made all the original playfields or whether WMS commissioned PFs from several manufacturers (like they did earlier in the 90's but that was when they were making 12-20k machines of each game).

The reproduction playfields won't have the stamps on the edges and will more likely have a licensing sticker on the playfield on the apron area (as per the pics below)

MM PF1 (resized).JPGMM PF2 (resized).JPG

#441 20 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

I would look at the edge of the PF as the originals will have manufacturer stamps and dates

This has been correct for all the WPC-95 Games I have had. My AFM actually had the stamp on the top edge of the playfield (LS) not the bottom like my MM which has Sep 05 CCC. I don't remember where the stamp was on MB but it had one also.

The other thing to look for if you look at Manny65 pics is that the Mirco repros I have had didn't actually add the insert under the left side under the apron. However, I don't remember IPB doing MM but on TAF and MB they did have the insert.

#442 20 days ago

This is the resting position of my castle door. I remember my MMr having the door up much more.

Can anyone tell me if it is supposed to be closed more, and how I can adjust it.

Thanks!

IMG_20200512_012205 (resized).jpg
#443 19 days ago

I have owned MM for many years. I don't recalled every hearing the callout saying "They have an Atomic Blaster". Is this a common callout? I laughed when I heard it. Swear I never heard it before.

#444 19 days ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

This is the resting position of my castle door. I remember my MMr having the door up much more.
Can anyone tell me if it is supposed to be closed more, and how I can adjust it.
Thanks!
[quoted image]

I suspect the drawbridge doesn't go up fully by design, as when in multiball you can actually get a ball caught between the portcullis gate and the drawbridge - so if the drawbridge was to go up fully it'd jam the ball and potentially damage the drawbridge gears or the portcullis. That said your drawbridge does seem to be much lower than mine - maybe it's been stripped and not aligned correctly when reassembled??

#445 19 days ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

This is the resting position of my castle door. I remember my MMr having the door up much more.
Can anyone tell me if it is supposed to be closed more, and how I can adjust it.
Thanks!
[quoted image]

Mine is a bit more closed but not completely.

I really have to get that missing plastic...

IMG_5111 (resized).JPG
#446 19 days ago
Quoted from KJL:

This has been correct for all the WPC-95 Games I have had. My AFM actually had the stamp on the top edge of the playfield (LS) not the bottom like my MM which has Sep 05 CCC. I don't remember where the stamp was on MB but it had one also.
The other thing to look for if you look at Manny65 pics is that the Mirco repros I have had didn't actually add the insert under the left side under the apron. However, I don't remember IPB doing MM but on TAF and MB they did have the insert.

From these pics, can you tell if it's an original NOS or repro?

Screenshot_20200512-174620~2 (resized).pngScreenshot_20200512-174627~2 (resized).png
#447 19 days ago
Quoted from Edster:

Mine is a bit more closed but not completely.
I really have to get that missing plastic...[quoted image]

Yours looks more normal from what I remember my remake looking like.

Anyone know how to adjust this?

#448 19 days ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Yours looks more normal from what I remember my remake looking like.
Anyone know how to adjust this?

Mine is all the way up . Unfortunately can’t help with adjusting it . Will follow for the fix when it happens .

E4AF4F02-DB36-4F00-9A91-5D35B8DB5FAA (resized).jpeg
#449 19 days ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

From these pics, can you tell if it's an original NOS or repro?
[quoted image][quoted image]

I'm not sure what the coloured thing is at the bottom right of the PF but it's the same as the repro PF Marco was selling (and it's not on the original PFs)

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/36-50059

MM (resized).png
#450 19 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

I'm not sure what the coloured thing is at the bottom right of the PF but it's the same as the repro PF Marco was selling (and it's not on the original PFs)
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/36-50059
[quoted image]

That 'colored thing' are registration and ink-level tests. Each of the spot colors on the playfield should be present, as well as set gradients - it's used to test the screens to make sure the screens are still useable. (i.e. If the 50% tone is too dark/light, something wrong and the field won't pass QA.)

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