(Topic ID: 72263)

*-*Medieval Madness Owners Club*-*-> The door is open ... c'mon in !!


By Thor-NL

5 years ago



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  • Latest reply 9 days ago by centre-drain
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There are 351 posts in this topic. You are on page 7 of 8.
#301 4 months ago

I hope someone can advise. I'd say approximately 40%-50% of the time the moat kickout on my MM kicks the ball out and the ball hits the guide rail sending it hurtling SDTM and there is nothing you can do to save it. Really frustrating. I lifted up the playfield and took a look at the bracket that holds the kicker solenoid but nothing instantly struck me as being adjustable. I also double checked that my game is balanced.

I found this old thread where it is mentioned that this is a common issue and that some adjustments can be made to the bracket but I'm not seeing how:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/desperatly-need-your-help-on-medieval-madness-right-now

#302 4 months ago
Quoted from Thor-NL:

When installed properly (flush with PF) no it won't

Does Pinbits ever restock these? Seem to always be out of stock.

#303 4 months ago

Just get them from Cliffy at Passion for Pinball directly. Pam never updates the pinbits site anymore.

#304 4 months ago
Quoted from acidburn:

I hope someone can advise. I'd say approximately 40%-50% of the time the moat kickout on my MM kicks the ball out and the ball hits the guide rail sending it hurtling SDTM and there is nothing you can do to save it. Really frustrating.

I put some o-rings over the coil plunger to shorten the plunger stroke and weaken the force of the coil to solve this problem. I think I had this idea from this thread, but I couldn‘t find it again after a quick search. I also did the same on the Merlin coil because the ball was always hitting the ramp and falling back into the saucer.

#305 4 months ago
Quoted from branlon8:

I put some o-rings over the coil plunger to shorten the plunger stroke and weaken the force of the coil to solve this problem. I think I had this idea from this thread, but I couldn‘t find it again after a quick search. I also did the same on the Merlin coil because the ball was always hitting the ramp and falling back into the saucer.

Hmmm, I see that there are two nuts on the solenoid bracket that allow me to move the solenoid further back (I assume to adjust the strength)
Maybe worth adjusting?

#306 4 months ago
Quoted from acidburn:

Maybe worth adjusting?

Sure! moving up is giving it more oompf, back weakens the strength, resulting in another trajectory the ball will go.

#307 4 months ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

Just get them from Cliffy at Passion for Pinball directly. Pam never updates the pinbits site anymore.

Aren't the Cliffy ones different from Pinbits?

#308 4 months ago

Nope. Cliffy and Pinbits are pretty tight.

#309 4 months ago
Quoted from acidburn:

Hmmm, I see that there are two nuts on the solenoid bracket that allow me to move the solenoid further back (I assume to adjust the strength)
Maybe worth adjusting?

Yep, that's how I adjust VUK strengths all the time.

#310 4 months ago

So does anyone know if the ramps on PPS that appear to have MMR connectors, can also be used for MM?

#311 4 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

So does anyone know if the ramps on PPS that appear to have MMR connectors, can also be used for MM?

If you convert (replace) the connectors to 'original / classic' ones, you should be fine

1 week later
#312 3 months ago

My 4 year old who barely even notices there are pinball machines in our house, asks me yesterday if we can play MM. Of course I jump quickly at the opportunity and when we get to the game, he says he wants me to play so I can get the castle. He sits on my lap on a stool and we start hitting castles. Next thing you know, we're at the 6th castle, and we're one catapult shot away from BFTK.

I point up at the translite, and tell him we're going to fight the bad king for his castle, and he gets super excited. Then I hit the post and drain out the side. Boooooo daddy!

Haha... Was still super fun to have that moment with him though

#313 3 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Haha... Was still super fun to have that moment with him though

Cherisch these moments man, gone before you know it

#314 3 months ago

Weirdest thing just happened... Was having a game and right in the middle of it, the power just went out.

I have it connected to a surge protector, and nothing else in the house went off.

Here's a video I took of what happens now when I turn it on:

Anyone know what this might be?

#315 3 months ago

Had this happening last year, the advice was first to reseat all the ribbon cables and give the ASIC a push, that was step one.
Did not solve the problem.
Installed a new set of ribbon cables and my problem was solved.

So i would begin there

#316 3 months ago
Quoted from Thor-NL:

Had this happening last year, the advice was first to reseat all the ribbon cables and give the ASIC a push, that was step one.
Did not solve the problem.
Installed a new set of ribbon cables and my problem was solved.
So i would begin there

Did you have the exact same thing as my video?

I'll try reseating the ribbon cables. If I need to replace them, is there a certain type I should order? Where do you get them? Just computer/electronic store?

#317 3 months ago

One more thing... After it crashed, I powered off and then on, and it prompted that all factory settings had been reset.

#318 3 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Weirdest thing just happened... Was having a game and right in the middle of it, the power just went out.
I have it connected to a surge protector, and nothing else in the house went off.
Here's a video I took of what happens now when I turn it on:

Anyone know what this might be?

Maybe it tripped the 5v watchdog circuit?? This would look like someone turned the power off and back on again - is that what you saw?

Although it doesn't explain the DMD issue you are now seeing or the why it reset the game to factory settings

Do you have any other WPC-95 games? If so you can swap over components to help troubleshoot where the issue lies. It seems to me that the game powers on correctly but the DMD is having issues. Can you play a game and if so is the game play normal? First thing I'd suggest is reseating your cables, if no luck and you have another WPC-95 game I'd look at swapping your power driver board or cables associated with the DMD

#319 3 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Maybe it tripped the 5v watchdog circuit?? This would look like someone turned the power off and back on again - is that what you saw?
Although it doesn't explain the DMD issue you are now seeing or the why it reset the game to factory settings
Do you have any other WPC-95 games? If so you can swap over components to help troubleshoot where the issue lies. It seems to me that the game powers on correctly but the DMD is having issues. Can you play a game and if so is the game play normal? First thing I'd suggest is reseating your cables, if no luck and you have another WPC-95 game I'd look at swapping your power driver board or cables associated with the DMD

Unfortunately I don't have any other WPC-95 games. I knew I should have bought that Shadow!

I'll try reseating everything on the boards.

Is it worthwhile getting one of these in the future?

http://kahr.us/

#320 3 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Unfortunately I don't have any other WPC-95 games. I knew I should have bought that Shadow!
I'll try reseating everything on the boards.
Is it worthwhile getting one of these in the future?
http://kahr.us/

They are great to have one on hand, but always good to resolve the underlying issue.

Play some games on the machine and see if it resets again - quite often this will happen if you double flip (ie hit both flippers at the same time) or it multi-ball. If you get more resets then you should firstly reseat your cables - I don't recall the specific cables for WPC-95 but you'll find plenty of references if you google "5v reset WPC-95", it'll also tell you how to troubleshoot if this becomes a persistent issue.

#321 3 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

They are great to have one on hand, but always good to resolve the underlying issue.
Play some games on the machine and see if it resets again - quite often this will happen if you double flip (ie hit both flippers at the same time) or it multi-ball. If you get more resets then you should firstly reseat your cables - I don't recall the specific cables for WPC-95 but you'll find plenty of references if you google "5v reset WPC-95", it'll also tell you how to troubleshoot if this becomes a persistent issue.

I just turned the game on and it seemed to be fine. Played a quick game and when I got into multi-ball it crapped.out on me.

Then it started doing this, and allowed me to play:

#322 3 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

I just turned the game on and it seemed to be fine. Played a quick game and when I got into multi-ball it crapped.out on me.
Then it started doing this, and allowed me to play:

I'd reseat all your cables and ribbon cables, and ensure any socketed chips are firmly pressed in.

So what actually happened in multi-ball? Did it reset (power off and then back on again) or just started the behaviour you've shown in the clip? The audio and video come from the same board on a WPC-95, but I'd start with your cables for now. Unless you are getting resets, I don't believe kahr's board isn't going to help fix this

#323 3 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

I'd reseat all your cables and ribbon cables, and ensure any socketed chips are firmly pressed in.
So what actually happened in multi-ball? Did it reset (power off and then back on again) or just started the behaviour you've shown in the clip? The audio and video come from the same board on a WPC-95, but I'd start with your cables for now. Unless you are getting resets, I don't believe kahr's board isn't going to help fix this

I will hopefully have a chance to try reseating everything today.

In the last video, the game completely shut down when multi-ball started. Not sure if it has anything to do with multi-ball or was just a coincidence.

Then it booted back up after a few seconds, I pushed the start button, ball launched, and I started recording the video.

#324 3 months ago

Not sure if it's connected, but aren't these chips supposed to have a sticker protecting them from light exposure?

IMG_20190724_122830 (resized).jpgMVIMG_20190724_122841 (resized).jpg
#325 3 months ago

My Medieval did that when I had battery corrision on the MPU board. Make sure you have no corrision of any kind on the board.

Quoted from WizardsCastle:

I just turned the game on and it seemed to be fine. Played a quick game and when I got into multi-ball it crapped.out on me.
Then it started doing this, and allowed me to play:

#326 3 months ago
Quoted from wiggy07:

My Medieval did that when I had battery corrision on the MPU board. Make sure you have no corrision of any kind on the board.

Would the corrosion be near the batteries or could it be elsewhere?

#327 3 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Not sure if it's connected, but aren't these chips supposed to have a sticker protecting them from light exposure?[quoted image][quoted image]

Yes they should but with them being inside the backbox they aren't going to receive enough light to really cause an issue, I'd still put something on them though.

#328 3 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Would the corrosion be near the batteries or could it be elsewhere?

Directly below and above the battery holder is where you would see it. You might want to post your issue to the Tech: Modern Game thread to get more exposure and suggestions. Despite the popularity of this game this thread doesn't really see a lot of posts / traffic.

#329 3 months ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Directly below and above the battery holder is where you would see it. You might want to post your issue to the Tech: Modern Game thread to get more exposure and suggestions. Despite the popularity of this game this thread doesn't really see a lot of posts / traffic.

Thanks! I have posted it in Tech and we'll maybe put a little more information there to hopefully get some answers.

First though I'm going to reseat all of the connectors.

#330 3 months ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Directly below and above the battery holder is where you would see it. You might want to post your issue to the Tech: Modern Game thread to get more exposure and suggestions. Despite the popularity of this game this thread doesn't really see a lot of posts / traffic.

Yup, my corrosion was below the battery holder, Fine traces were eaten by acid. I had the board fixed by Chris Hibler. He does awesome work.
Funny story. I got the game from the seller years ago. When I bought the game I noticed faint traces of battery acid on the battery holder. I called the seller and told him to check his other games to make sure he changed the batteries and look for any damage. I cleaned my holder with acid, alcohol, etc to remove the acid traces of the battery. Well everything was working for a couple years. One day I turned on my game and had the same issue you are having. I noticed all the traces were damaged from battery acid. The moral to the story, if you have battery acid damage on your battery holder, best thing is to cut it off and put on a new one, years later the acid could come back to cause damage to any board. I also have remote battery holders on all of my Williams and older Stern games.

#331 3 months ago
Quoted from wiggy07:

Yup, my corrosion was below the battery holder, Fine traces were eaten by acid. I had the board fixed by Chris Hibler. He does awesome work.
Funny story. I got the game from the seller years ago. When I bought the game I noticed faint traces of battery acid on the battery holder. I called the seller and told him to check his other games to make sure he changed the batteries and look for any damage. I cleaned my holder with acid, alcohol, etc to remove the acid traces of the battery. Well everything was working for a couple years. One day I turned on my game and had the same issue you are having. I noticed all the traces were damaged from battery acid. The moral to the story, if you have battery acid damage on your battery holder, best thing is to cut it off and put on a new one, years later the acid could come back to cause damage to any board. I also have remote battery holders on all of my Williams and older Stern games.

Do you have a contact for Chris? Or what is his username here?

I'm curious as to why people go with offboard battery holders, when you could just install NVRAM?

#332 3 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Do you have a contact for Chris? Or what is his username here?
I'm curious as to why people go with offboard battery holders, when you could just install NVRAM?

Installing an off-board battery holder is much easier than installing NVRAM on these games because the chip is not socketed and the traces on the boards are fairly easy to screw up. You also lose the clock and midnight madness modes unless you also install an external battery holder. Personally I went the NVRAM route because I can do the board work myself just fine.

#333 3 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Do you have a contact for Chris? Or what is his username here?
I'm curious as to why people go with offboard battery holders, when you could just install NVRAM?

Bobukcat is correct, on Williams 95 era games, the chip needs to be soldered and unsoldered from the board. I have about 15 games that I would need to do this with. Number one it is money to buy the chip, number two it is time and patience to install the NVRAM. A remote battery holder does the trick, I change the batteries once a year and I am good to go.

Chris Hibler's email address and website.

chibler@charter.net

Website :
http://chrishiblerpinball.com/repair-blog/

#334 3 months ago
Quoted from wiggy07:

Bobukcat is correct, on Williams 95 era games, the chip needs to be soldered and unsoldered from the board. I have about 15 games that I would need to do this with. Number one it is money to buy the chip, number two it is time and patience to install the NVRAM. A remote battery holder does the trick, I change the batteries once a year and I am good to go.
Chris Hibler's email address and website.
chibler@charter.net
Website :
http://chrishiblerpinball.com/repair-blog/

Thanks!

I've sent him an email. I'm going to hopefully get a few minutes to remove the board and I will post photos of any damage I might be able to see.

#335 3 months ago

can anyone tell me how many 1/2'' and 3/4'' pcb standoff spacers (the plastic ones) are used? I want to replace them all, but can't find a number. Thanks in advance!

#336 3 months ago
Quoted from choseh:

can anyone tell me how many 1/2'' and 3/4'' pcb standoff spacers (the plastic ones) are used? I want to replace them all, but can't find a number. Thanks in advance!

Based on the IPDB Parts List:

9 x 20-9658-1 1/2" standoff
9 x 20-9658-2 3/4" standoff

Was this what you were after?

#337 3 months ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Based on the IPDB Parts List:
9 x 20-9658-1 1/2" standoff
9 x 20-9658-2 3/4" standoff
Was this what you were after?

perfect! thanks a lot! I wasn't quite sure what to look for in the parts list <3

1 week later
#338 3 months ago

Battery corrosion cleaned up, NVRAM installed, and everything working great.

Thanks for all the help

3 weeks later
#339 78 days ago

If you own a medieval madness, you may want to purchase a copy of this awesome photograph....

Archived after 13 days
796 views
Not sold: Decided to keep game
Other - For Sale
“This photograph is a very creative shot of Medieval Madness. This is a wide angle shot that makes you feel like you are inside the pinball machine (checkout the photo dimensions of...”
2019-10-12
Howell, MI
0 (Firm)

#340 74 days ago

What's the best topper available for this game? Please share your ideas.. Thanks!

#341 74 days ago
Quoted from pacman11:

What's the best topper available for this game? Please share your ideas.. Thanks!

Couldn’t find one I was crazy about or would fit my low ceiling so did this:

A19D2307-623C-4639-AB77-24214A5E0C62 (resized).jpeg
#342 71 days ago

How do you remove the castle decorative molding parts? I have an artist friend who has volunteered to paint it for me. I removed the two top turret screws from the front piece with the gate and it is loose but it won't come off. Is there another screw underneath? Also, what is the best way to remove the back damsel piece? It looks like all the ramps need to be removed unless there is a trick that I am missing?

3 weeks later
#343 50 days ago

Looking for an unused NOS playfield and apron?

Anyone have either of these that they'd be willing to sell?

1 month later
#344 15 days ago

Just got a MM! I wish I could say it's all good, I'm having a problem with airballs. From what I can tell, the ball is launching off the troll flaps, but targets, protectors, and even the slings seem to launch the ball.

The worst are the troll flaps, all I could find is a really old thread about some people who got decals that were too thick. I ordered new flaps and decals, but what is your guy's experience? Do the troll flaps cause your ball to jump? Is some airtime normal?

Even the slings are causing jumps. For example, the ball launched off the left sling, over the shooter lane and into the side of the cab. I've never even seen that before.

Also, the ball is jumpy off some of the protectors. For example, as I shoot into the ball lock shot, the ball jumped and hit the castle over the top of the shot.

I guess my questions are, is airtime to be expected in this game? Is there anything specific I should do or look for on the troll flaps to keep the ball from launching? Anyone have any idea why a ball would launch off a slingshot, I can't think of any.

Thanks!

#345 15 days ago
Quoted from jalpert:

Just got a MM! I wish I could say it's all good, I'm having a problem with airballs. From what I can tell, the ball is launching off the troll flaps, but targets, protectors, and even the slings seem to launch the ball.
The worst are the troll flaps, all I could find is a really old thread about some people who got decals that were too thick. I ordered new flaps and decals, but what is your guy's experience? Do the troll flaps cause your ball to jump? Is some airtime normal?
Even the slings are causing jumps. For example, the ball launched off the left sling, over the shooter lane and into the side of the cab. I've never even seen that before.
Also, the ball is jumpy off some of the protectors. For example, as I shoot into the ball lock shot, the ball jumped and hit the castle over the top of the shot.
I guess my questions are, is airtime to be expected in this game? Is there anything specific I should do or look for on the troll flaps to keep the ball from launching? Anyone have any idea why a ball would launch off a slingshot, I can't think of any.
Thanks!

Do you have an original or Mirco pf? I find airballs happen since getting this Mirco.

That's why I'm looking for a NOS playfield. Anyone want to sell me one???

#346 15 days ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Do you have an original or Mirco pf? I find airballs happen since getting this Mirco.

The playfield has been restored and cleared...

#347 14 days ago

I’m in the club too, found myself a solid original. Looking for some mods, what’s most recommended?

#348 11 days ago

Because I hate it when people don't post solutions....

The new troll ramp flaps with installed decal from Marco came in. I couldn't really test the thickness of the current flaps without taking them off, what a pain in the ass these things are to work with.

I broke out the caliper and the flaps on my game of unknown origin were consistently .1mm thicker than the flap with pre installed sticker I got from Marco. And the new flaps made all the difference in the world. The ball was getting air off those and hitting the standup targets high, and that was catapulting them into the air in all kinds of crazy ways.

Also, if you have a restored or cleared playfield, especially if you wax like I do, you might have to move down a color in flipper strength and also down in sling strength. I still get airballs off the targets, but I have new ones coming along with new pieces of foam backing which I'm confident will fix the few airballs I still get.

#349 11 days ago
Quoted from jalpert:

Because I hate it when people don't post solutions....
The new troll ramp flaps with installed decal from Marco came in. I couldn't really test the thickness of the current flaps without taking them off, what a pain in the ass these things are to work with.
I broke out the caliper and the flaps on my game of unknown origin were consistently .1mm thicker than the flap with pre installed sticker I got from Marco. And the new flaps made all the difference in the world. The ball was getting air off those and hitting the standup targets high, and that was catapulting them into the air in all kinds of crazy ways.
Also, if you have a restored or cleared playfield, especially if you wax like I do, you might have to move down a color in flipper strength and also down in sling strength. I still get airballs off the targets, but I have new ones coming along with new pieces of foam backing which I'm confident will fix the few airballs I still get.

Can you send a link to the flaps.

Thanks!

#350 11 days ago

Flaps:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=04-10761.2
Says includes decal, mine came installed.

Also consider at the same time:

Clip:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-6227
These are easy to break and loose, have some extras

Spring:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-392-1
While you are there, replace this spring. These things suck to work on so might as well replace the 2 sprints for less than $2.

Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Can you send a link to the flaps.

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