Cincinnati, OH
Does anyone have an extra set of used or new dragon wings? I know they are for sale at many places - just hoping I can scoop one set up for cheaper.
(Topic ID: 72263)
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Medieval Madness
Williams, 1997
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Quoted from weaverj:is this really the MM club or is everybody in the MMR thread now?
This is the ONLY mm club, the other one is for mmr junkies, I can hardly believe it's such a low frequency topic
Just joined the club last month...not a big fan of the coindoor but it did come with the original as well...playfield is super nice but cab has some touch up...
This game is of course an instant family favorite...my 20yr old son hasnt been this interested in pinball since we bought a NIB Luci a few years ago...love the callouts, I usally cant hear them on location.
Quoted from cosmokramer:Just joined the club last month...not a big fan of the coindoor but it did come with the original as well...playfield is super nice but cab has some touch up...
This game is of course an instant family favorite...my 20yr old son hasnt been this interested in pinball since we bought a NIB Luci a few years ago...love the callouts, I usally cant hear them on location.
That COIN door, is crazy!
For anyone interested in lighting up that Beautiful playfield with style....NEW! Medieval Madness (MMr or Original) Custom barrel spot lights and Flickering Torch sling shots Mod Complete kit! Light the torches and kill some trolls! Each barrel is individually Hand painted to extreme detail, (no 2 are the same!) accented and wrapped with aged rope for authenticity, and highlighted with a precision machined archers arrow also painted to perfection down to the Mini game specific toasted (actually painted) marshmallow! Very cool! And the finishing touch, mini labels so the "Chateaux De Troll" doesn't get mixed with the "Ye Olde Brewery". (Those trolls do like Chateaux!) Special note, notice each barrel is lined with a clear cut acrylic sleeve for a Unique halo effect and additional protection for the wood barrel. Really a nice glow especially with colored lamps!! Spot lamps are complete with standoff and all mounting hardware, truly plug and play. But wait, theres MORE!! To complete the lower playfield effect the kit also includes a flickering torch accent to let those sling torch images flicker as if they were really on fire! (No real fire needed!) Note the Only item not included are the bulbs as Everyone has a specific taste in lighting. As displayed I used Comet Optix Maximus 555 in Purple. (again, my taste going for a Prince look with Purple Rain? lol Available NOW from the Mod Couple, Order now!!! Check out the video to see the very unique and total presentation of both the flickering torches And not only the look but the wonderful illumination of the barrel lamps! Kit includes 1 Set of MM Barrel lamps, 1 Set of torch lamps, and All hardware! Ask any questions and Thank you for viewing our products!!! PM or available in our Pinside store under "The Mod Couple". Keep Flipping!
Video of Flaming torches and Mod Kit:
i got my MM yesterday. having problems keeping the ball in the merlin scoop and i get some rejections on the kickout off the ramp, too. i'm thinking it wasn't reassembled correctly during its shop job. the curved top part of the assembly faces the player. it should face the kickout direction, the right, correct? if you need a pic, i can get one. lmk. thank you.
Quoted from weaverj:i got my MM yesterday. having problems keeping the ball in the merlin scoop and i get some rejections on the kickout off the ramp, too. i'm thinking it wasn't reassembled correctly during its shop job. the curved top part of the assembly faces the player. it should face the kickout direction, the right, correct? if you need a pic, i can get one. lmk. thank you.
Post pics, the Merlin scoop is supposed to face the player
Quoted from weaverj:i got my MM yesterday. having problems keeping the ball in the merlin scoop and i get some rejections on the kickout off the ramp, too. i'm thinking it wasn't reassembled correctly during its shop job. the curved top part of the assembly faces the player. it should face the kickout direction, the right, correct? if you need a pic, i can get one. lmk. thank you.
Its supposed to face that way......sounds like u need to make some small ajustments tho. Its also pretty common to have Merlin rejections. The mantis helps some and there are some other tricks to help
i also get a speaker pop/crack at the beginning of ball, starting with ball 2. i just swapped the backbox speakers out with an old set i had: same thing.
i noticed the speaker grounds are slide jobs on the speaker grills. i assume that's right?
Quoted from Chosen_S:Looks like mine, mine works ok
U sld get some protection on that .......
Quoted from bigd1979:U sld get some protection on that .......
I have a cliffy and mantis, I also clear coated the playfield, it looked 10x as bad before. I layered several coats of clear around the hole to make it rock solid, I know it looks bad, I'll put the cliffy on when wear starts showing again
Quoted from Chosen_S:I have a cliffy and mantis, I also clear coated the playfield, it looked 10x as bad before. I layered several coats of clear around the hole to make it rock solid, I know it looks bad, I'll put the cliffy on when wear starts showing again
O they were the before pics? All u really need is the mantis and some mylar . Thats all i have and mine looks new still after thousands of plays.....
Quoted from bigd1979:O they were the before pics? All u really need is the mantis and some mylar . Thats all i have and mine looks new still after thousands of plays.....
No, these are after pics, maybe I will install the mantis, I just never liked the way it looked, maybe I should try again 
which bulbs get yellow condoms on them? i saw this on the MM game specific parts list:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8063-6
not in the manual, however.
Quoted from weaverj:which bulbs get yellow condoms on them? i saw this on the MM game specific parts list:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8063-6
not in the manual, however.
Hey Weaver
Originally Williams used the yellow sleeves for the 555 bulbs in the spotlights (04-10094-2 reflector & socket assy) directed at the castle. These are the ones mounted on 1/4 in hex posts which were attached to the left plastic ramp.
Wally
really? that's interesting. i'm having a hard time, as usual, getting my colored gi the way i want it. i'm currently on green in the spots and behind the castle. this is mostly to match the moat color when it's flashing.
3 weeks later
Helsinki
are they natural white? that looks pretty yellowish. here's a comparison of natural white versus sunlight white on my BSD:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bram-stokers-dracula-clubmembers-only/page/88#post-3639321
i think they're also brighter bulbs. first pic is comet flattop nat' white; second is comet single smd sunlight white.
i'd stay away from color in the backbox. i've never liked that look.
this translite isn't the best. find a type of white bulb you can stomach, and forget about it.
Quoted from weaverj:are they natural white? that looks pretty yellowish. here's a comparison of natural white versus sunlight white on my BSD:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bram-stokers-dracula-clubmembers-only/page/88#post-3639321
i think they're also brighter bulbs. first pic is comet flattop nat' white; second is comet single smd sunlight white.
i'd stay away from color in the backbox. i've never liked that look.
this translite isn't the best. find a type of white bulb you can stomach, and forget about it.
Thanks! I have to investigate, what sort of led-bulbs are there. (I know it has been ledded, but have not investigated the bulbs.)
Hi all. I've been putting off buying MM for about 3 years but finally pulled the trigger and bought this about 3 weeks ago. This is definitely a AWSOME game. This will be in the collection forever. So much fun to play. Have the topper on its way I can't wait. LORD HOWARD HURTZ
Quoted from Nepi23:Thanks! I have to investigate, what sort of led-bulbs are there. (I know it has been ledded, but have not investigated the bulbs.)
check out cometpinball.com. i use single smd 5050's, frosted lens.
1 week later
After you destroy all of the castles how do you defeat the King of Pain? I always thinks the game will go into a mode or lights start flashing or something but nothing happens that helps me to know what to do next.
Quoted from WesleyCowan:After you destroy all of the castles how do you defeat the King of Pain? I always thinks the game will go into a mode or lights start flashing or something but nothing happens that helps me to know what to do next.
Same way you beat all his men, hits to the castle drawbridge then gate then into the castle. It just takes a lot more hits (don't know the actual count for each) and the moat does pulse the entire time once you beat the first five men and KOP is up next.
2 weeks later
you guys have a problem with peasant ramp/catapult returns bouncing out of the inlane into the outlane? pretty f'n annoying. i was thinking of trying some strategically placed rubbers to work as a bit of a stopper on the end of the habitrail.
the padding i added to the merlin shot hasn't helped much either. i was going for royal madness and made the shot 3 times, it bounced to the right every time, then i lost the ball.
not sure about this game. some bad physics and/or design going on. i shouldn't be the one figuring these things out. where was the qc?
Quoted from weaverj:you guys have a problem with peasant ramp/catapult returns bouncing out of the inlane into the outlane? pretty f'n annoying. i was thinking of trying some strategically placed rubbers to work as a bit of a stopper on the end of the habitrail.
I had this problem when I had Titan silicon rubbers on the slings. I messed with it for hours and thought I had it fixed many times but as soon as multi-player games or competition really started it came back. I put black rubber on the slings and haven't had the problem once since. One of these days I'll probably try to revisit it but for now it's staying with black sling rubbers.
Quoted from weaverj:the padding i added to the merlin shot hasn't helped much either. i was going for royal madness and made the shot 3 times, it bounced to the right every time, then i lost the ball.
not sure about this game. some bad physics and/or design going on. i shouldn't be the one figuring these things out. where was the qc?
Weird... my mm plays very smooth however i do get a few merlin bounce outs but thats it and thats pinball lol. I cld probably mess with it and fix it but its not a big deal.
Quoted from weaverj:the padding i added to the merlin shot hasn't helped much either. i was going for royal madness and made the shot 3 times, it bounced to the right every time, then i lost the ball.
not sure about this game. some bad physics and/or design going on. i shouldn't be the one figuring these things out. where was the qc?
It’s meant to be hard. It’s supoosed to be challenging. It was designed for you to keep putting quarters in.
eh, i get what you're saying, but not for this situation. i think it's more that it's mechanical and not a video game. anytime you make any shot, it's a little bit different than each time you've hit it before. either the speed was different, the ball spin was different or the exact spot you hit on the target or ramp was different. those variables seem to be more important for that shot than any other i've ever experienced.
i can "hit" that shot 10 times and it might settle in the saucer 5. that's poor design, imo. should have been a scoop/upkicker. unless it was specifically designed for that exact behavior, where you get screwed out of the reward 50% of the time. that would be rude, brian.
btw, i don't think i hate hard games. people say BSD is hard, and it's one of my favorite games i've owned. pretty sure there's not one thing on it i'd change. i prefer short ball times, but this isn't a ball time thing.
Quoted from weaverj:eh, i get what you're saying, but not for this situation. i think it's more that it's mechanical and not a video game. anytime you make any shot, it's a little bit different than each time you've hit it before. either the speed was different, the ball spin was different or the exact spot you hit on the target or ramp was different. those variables seem to be more important for that shot than any other i've ever experienced.
i can "hit" that shot 10 times and it might settle in the saucer 5. that's poor design, imo. should have been a scoop/upkicker. unless it was specifically designed for that exact behavior, where you get screwed out of the reward 50% of the time. that would be rude, brian.
btw, i don't think i hate hard games. people say BSD is hard, and it's one of my favorite games i've owned. pretty sure there's not one thing on it i'd change. i prefer short ball times, but this isn't a ball time thing.
It’s the same in Indiana Jones, those shots where it’s a the cup shot with a bracket you’re going to have bounce outs. TOTAN tried to combat that by having a newton ball above the saucer to take most of the inertia out of the ball, but it still doesn’t always work, but it’s more consistent than MM is.
1 month later
1 week later
i removed the mantis protector at the merlin scoop to see if that would help eliminate some of my bounce outs. so far so good. big improvement.
I’m still having issues with my trolls, I need to figure out which capacitors are in their power circuit. Would anyone happen to know?
The trolls won’t work until I go in to test mode and let them pulse for about 20-30 seconds each. I have to do this every time I turn on my mm.
Quoted from Chosen_S:I’m still having issues with my trolls, I need to figure out which capacitors are in their power circuit. Would anyone happen to know?
The trolls won’t work until I go in to test mode and let them pulse for about 20-30 seconds each. I have to do this every time I turn on my mm.
Because the trolls have power and hold circuits they are handled by flipper circuits. Q84 and Q81 are the power (raise) drivers and Q83 and Q86 are the hold drivers. There are no capacitors in these circuits so something else is causing this. I've never seen this before, did both Trolls start having the problem at the same time? Are the flippers strong and working properly when the trolls won't pop up? Check the connectors at J119 and J120, make sure they are not burnt and that they are tight. I would then measure voltage at the tab of Q84 and Q81 (in Solenoid test mode with the interlock switch pulled out, hopefully I don't have to tell you to be careful while doing this as high voltage is present).
Quoted from bobukcat:Because the trolls have power and hold circuits they are handled by flipper circuits. Q84 and Q81 are the power (raise) drivers and Q83 and Q86 are the hold drivers. There are no capacitors in these circuits so something else is causing this. I've never seen this before, did both Trolls start having the problem at the same time? Are the flippers strong and working properly when the trolls won't pop up? Check the connectors at J119 and J120, make sure they are not burnt and that they are tight. I would then measure voltage at the tab of Q84 and Q81 (in Solenoid test mode with the interlock switch pulled out, hopefully I don't have to tell you to be careful while doing this as high voltage is present).
Flippers are nice and strong, both trolls at the same time started to have this issue; I’ll check connectors and voltages, thank you for the push in the right direction, I’ll report back 
are the switch assemblies supposed to have those rubber/vinyl covers on them? hopefully, you guys say, "yes." they would really dress it up, imo.
also, i feel kind of stupid. pretty sure i was fighting the bounce outs in the left return lane incorrectly. going to try moving the ball return. i would bet my lungs i'm going to have better results doing that.
1 week later
anybody buy one of these rubber kits and wouldn't mind scanning or taking a pic of the chart/diagram?
http://www.thepinballwizard.net/index.php?p=product&id=1561
ebay.com link: 1997 Williams Medieval Madness Pinball Machine Rubber Ring Kit
i'm getting ready to order some superbands and need some help.
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