(Topic ID: 72263)

Williams Org Medieval Madness Owners Club *-* The door is open ... c'mon in !!

By Thor-NL

10 years ago


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There are 1,528 posts in this topic. You are on page 15 of 31.
#701 2 years ago

anyone have the screw lengths for the ball return guides 2 different sizes ...!
at work and cant measure them trying to place an order!

#702 2 years ago

Can someone please tell me what goes in this screw hole? Did a tear down and it was missing.

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#703 2 years ago

That's where a star post would go. I believe you remove it when you put the ball stop in.

#704 2 years ago

Just saw that there is going to be another run of MMr in early 2023!! I may finally be able to get my holy grail game!!

#705 2 years ago
Quoted from BaxterStockman:

Just saw that there is going to be another run of MMr in early 2023!! I may finally be able to get my holy grail game!!

While I don‘t doubt they will make another run, their woeful ability to stick to timelines would make it more likely in very LATE 2023 or early 2024…. The REs were about 10 months behind the original schedule.

#706 2 years ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

While I don‘t doubt they will make another run, their woeful ability to stick to timelines would make it more likely in very LATE 2023 or early 2024…. The REs were about 10 months behind the original schedule.

Gives me more time to save up.

#707 2 years ago
Quoted from BaxterStockman:

Just saw that there is going to be another run of MMr in early 2023!! I may finally be able to get my holy grail game!!

shouldn't this be in the MMR club?

#708 2 years ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

shouldn't this be in the MMR club?

Oh, sorry, didn't know there was a separate club.

#709 2 years ago

Will be picking up a MM this weekend. Looking forward. Any specific areas of concern / attention points, I should be looking at for this machine?

#710 2 years ago
Quoted from Hans_Saris:

Will be picking up a MM this weekend. Looking forward. Any specific areas of concern / attention points, I should be looking at for this machine?

The whole area around the castle drawbridge often gets smashed by the balls. Check the castle plastic, the metal at the brawbridge bottom, links commenting to the motor and such.

#711 2 years ago
Quoted from Hans_Saris:

attention points,

I know this area is hard to see, but look at the spot were the ball is discharged from the moat VUK. If the ball landings are always in the same spot it tends to wear a spot in the playfield just like the Lost Mine VUK in White Water. Also look at Merlin's Hole. Look at the inserts on the Joust orbit (Jets, Fight and Sword) they tend to wear from ball trails and heat due to incandesent light bulbs.

#712 2 years ago

Thanks both! Will look at this specifically.

#713 2 years ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

The whole area around the castle drawbridge often gets smashed by the balls. Check the castle plastic, the metal at the brawbridge bottom, links commenting to the motor and such.

The green plastic moat is often busted up and patched together in some way if the game has been operated. Also take a close look at the troll carriages as the welds tend to break where it meets the part that bolts to the plunger.

#714 2 years ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

I got my King Of Payne Topper to work interactively on My Williams Medieval Maddness. It has five circuits (right now). One GI circuit (red backround both sides) and four flasher circuits. The lightning flashers on the topper work when you hit castle. The left Topper Troll lights/flashes green when you use the left ramp and hit the left troll. The right Topper Troll lights green when you use the right ramp and hit the right Troll. The king glows/flashes blue when the medallion flashes. All of the topper flashers can flash at other times ( like when you smash the castle wall or destroy the castle) and their patterns change.

I know it’s like two months later, but that’s awesome!

#715 2 years ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

know it’s like two months later, but that’s awesome!

Thanks! The good news is CGC has hinted at possibly build a few more of the toppers. That way maybe a few more OG owners can Snarf one!

#716 2 years ago

Hi guys

New member here, dream game

Question/issue

Is the right ramp Gi supposed to be on all the time? It goes on when I make the shot a long with the flasher but doesn’t stay on otherwise. Also, the GI to the left of the Merlin hole isn’t working- are these related?

Thank you

#717 2 years ago

I guess there is three gi under the right ramp

The two pictured here aren’t working, tried new bulbs to no avail. Any other thing to trouble shoot? Thanks

#718 2 years ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Is the right ramp Gi supposed to be on all the time?

Yes.

Quoted from nicoy3k:

It goes on when I make the shot a long with the flasher but doesn’t stay on otherwise.

Shouldn't go on with the flasher. Something wired wrong ? Connectors mixed up ? Though I suspect if it really goes on with the flasher the 20 volt zap would blow the 6 volt bulb out instantly.

Quoted from nicoy3k:

the GI to the left of the Merlin hole isn’t working- are these related?

Could be. Bad bulb ? Bad socket ( did you measure AC power to it ) if no power a break in the wiring from driver board to the socket.

LTG : )

#719 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Yes.

Shouldn't go on with the flasher. Something wired wrong ? Connectors mixed up ? Though I suspect if it really goes on with the flasher the 20 volt zap would blow the 6 volt bulb out instantly.

Could be. Bad bulb ? Bad socket ( did you measure AC power to it ) if no power a break in the wiring from driver board to the socket.
LTG : )

Thanks LTG, so there are three bulbs under the right ramp. Two only go on with the dragon flasher and the one furthest to the left that never goes on. I tried changing the bulbs to no avail. How do I message the aC power to it?

#720 2 years ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

How do I message the aC power to it?

Just use a DVM on AC voltage. Most likely it is a socket or bad solder joint. The GI are wired in strings so there will be a group of them together. You can discover what those are and if they are in the same group by looking at the the color of the wries under the pf.

#721 2 years ago
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#722 2 years ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

Just use a DVM on AC voltage. Most likely it is a socket or bad solder joint. The GI are wired in strings so there will be a group of them together. You can discover what those are and if they are in the same group by looking at the the color of the wries under the pf.

Thanks man, could you please walk me through how to use the multimeter to test the socket, in the simplest terms please... I’m still learning lol really appreciate it

#723 2 years ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

how to use the multimeter to test the socket,

Youtube. Lots of short videos.

LTG : )

#724 2 years ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Thanks man, could you please walk me through how to use the multimeter to test the socket, in the simplest terms please... I’m still learning lol really appreciate it

Sure, the DVM has a red lead and a black lead. Put the DVM on AC volts Leave the game on and tilt the playfield. Those lamps are on the rightside about midway down. Just touch the leads to the orange and white wires and brown ones. You should get about 7v.

#725 2 years ago

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Most likely a wire came off of one those three and it effects all three.

#726 2 years ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

Sure, the DVM has a red lead and a black lead. Put the DVM on AC volts Leave the game on and tilt the playfield. Those lamps are on the rightside about midway down. Just touch the leads to the orange and white wires and brown ones. You should get about 7v.

Thanks, just I make sure I don’t F anything up... I’ll set my multimeter to the setting below and touch the solder joints like shown in the photo?

While the machine is on, and if it reads 6/7 volts it’s good?

Thanks for the help and patience I am learning

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#727 2 years ago

One click to the left there on your DVM

#728 2 years ago

Once you figure there is no voltage where there should be, try a wiggle test on those wires to all three of those lamps. See if there is a broken wire.

#729 2 years ago

I think I found the culprit... lose wire on the gi to the very left or the playfield that looks to be on the same wiring

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#730 2 years ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

lose wire on the gi

Solder it on.

LTG : )

#731 2 years ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

I think I found the culprit..

BINGO!

#732 2 years ago

Congrats by the way. Welcome to the Madness!

#733 2 years ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

Congrats by the way. Welcome to the Madness!

Thanks!

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#734 2 years ago

Hi Everyone, after months of waiting for the replacement for the defective ramps I received I have my MM back together. I sent my wireforms out to be rebrassed and received a diff set back (per the course). The one that were sent to me are missing this bracket that the clear plastic affixes to in the photo. In addition the chute seems to be straight horizontal and thus shooting the ball into the back.

Can anyone look at theirs and tell me if yours curves down towards the plastic ramp at all, and also does anyone know if the wireforms for the MMr are different than our standards? I'm thinking I may have gotten a set of MMr forms back instead.

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#735 2 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

...
In addition the chute seems to be straight horizontal and thus shooting the ball into the back.
Can anyone look at theirs and tell me if yours curves down towards the plastic ramp at all
...
[quoted image]

I recently bought a MM and I'm in the process of renovating it. This is what the end of my wireform looks like, no idea if that slope is correct or not but can't recall any balls flying into the backboard or such when I tested it before buying.

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#736 2 years ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

I recently bought a MM and I'm in the process of renovating it. This is what the end of my wireform looks like, no idea if that slope is correct or not but can't recall any balls flying into the backboard or such when I tested it before buying.
[quoted image]

Perfect thank you!

#737 2 years ago

Finally lit up the plastic covering the catapult

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#738 2 years ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

Finally lit up the plastic covering the catapult
[quoted image]

Nice!

#739 2 years ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

Finally lit up the plastic covering the catapult
[quoted image]

Looks awesome!

How's you do it?

#740 2 years ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

Finally lit up the plastic covering the catapult
[quoted image]

I love it. Also why do they put the quote button so close to the downward vote button for the person beneath. Yeeesh.

#741 2 years ago

Removed the screw that holds the catapult in place , got a longer one and a spacer .. desoldered the wires off the Comet warm white PCB board and soldered on longer length wire.
Ran wire behind the post and soldered to GI socket...

If your using warm white in your GI ...
Let me know Mr. Castles... happy to mail you one ... still have the address

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#742 2 years ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

Removed the screw that holds the catapult in place , got a longer one and a spacer .. desoldered the wires off the Comet warm white PCB board and soldered on longer length wire.
Ran wire behind the post and soldered to GI socket...
If your using warm white in your GI ...
Let me know Mr. Castles... happy to mail you one ... still have the address
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Always generous my brother! I love you for that!

I'll text you in the week.

#743 2 years ago

Any tips for removing the ramps? The flashers seem like a pain in the ass to remove. Do I have to grind out the rivets and cut/re-solder the flasher wires? Or is there a simpler way to remove the flashers?

#744 2 years ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Any tips for removing the ramps? The flashers seem like a pain in the ass to remove. Do I have to grind out the rivets and cut/re-solder the flashers?

I'd lift the playfield an undo the connectors underneath and then fish the wires up through the holes in the playfield.

But that's just me.

LTG : )

#745 2 years ago

I don’t think the connectors fit through the cable holes in the ramps, it seems like there are multiple flashers/switches that need to be cut or de soldered to remove the ramp, am I totally wrong? Hope I am!

#746 2 years ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

am I totally wrong?

Yes. I've done it on an original and on a remake.

Some you have to wiggle, turn, and push. And one at a time, not all at once.

LTG : )

#747 2 years ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

am I totally wrong?

Your game was assembled at one point. Somebody got the connectors through.

LTG : )

#748 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Your game was assembled at one point. Somebody got the connectors through.
LTG : )

How do I take this switch out without cutting the wire?

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#749 2 years ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

How do I take this switch out without cutting the wire?

Desolder the wires. Remove the micro switch clean ramp ... reinstall.
Just did the same thing this weekend ..

#750 2 years ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

Desolder the wires. Remove the micro switch clean ramp ... reinstall.
Just did the same thing this weekend ..

Yes that was my question, I do need to de solder...

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