That left hand side has a metal guide that goes around that curve/Joust loop and to the end of the PF instead of the black frame. I am away for the day so I can't take any pics for you, but here are some pics of stripped PF from my FS ad. If I remember to when I get home this evening I'll take a few more of my semi populated PF.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/116040

finally finished my topper. Trying to make it look a bit similar to the one in the game.
castle front and moat lighted. Dragon lights when making the "damsel" ramp on the right (and at other times),
trolls I hooked up to light individually as the left or right troll pop up.

** Special thanks to Chris (aka Mr_Tantrum) who made printed via 3D my windows, skulls, shield, gate and drawbridge,
and the best one of all - the blue moat and brick surrounding it! He made my 3D flipper covers. He is a perfectionist to say the least.

The youtube video is just to show the effects a bit - sorry for the poor video (holding phone whilst triggering PF for effects)
may still be in the SD quality - (not sure when or how to get HD)

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Looking very good!! Nice work!!

Very cool - well done! Love the dragon and the lighting - looks awesome!

any one have pics of the castle assembly , having an issue with the left rear tower leaning ? checked assembly nothing broke or cracked , just not sitting flush to the front tower to return it being straight

It’s a common issue - you can correct it by placing weight in the base. These are posts about it a few pages back.

I ended up putting small slivers of foam under the wedge piece that holds it up-right, has held up very well so far.

Look down at the metal plate holding towers on. Remove four screws. Whole base and towers lifts up and off. Then you can check if it's binding, flashing on the plastic, needs a stronger spring, etc.

LTG : )

Probably might need a stronger spring for that, but I took a nickel and glued it to the top of the base to give it more weight, it worked great.

Hi everyone. Just joined the club. Found a MM completely original, went from the arcade to the first owner and then to me! Couldn’t be happier!

Looking for help:

(1) I’ll probably install a led kit to replace incandescent bulbs. Do you have any recommendation on which kit to buy?

(2) thought a shaker motor would be nice. Any ideas where to find one?

I live in Brazil, but my son studies in philly so US tips will do great!

Also any tips on how to take good care of the machine are greatly appreciated!

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/medieval-madness-led-kit Comet has one.

LTG : )

Thanks!!

Does anyone know the story behind the use of the name Payne in MM? Payne is said to come from the name Pagen and later Payen. Hugh de Payen was the name of the leader of the Knights Templar. Payne was surely chosen for its historical significance. The name came from France...

Personally I think you are reading way too much into it. Payne sounds just like pain. pain in the ass, pain in the neck, king of pain. I think it was chosen for it's humoristic impact, not historical significance.

This

My ball guide below the exploding castle is missing the one-way wire gate that should be there to prevent the ball going back out again.

I've tried to find the part number for it but I can't seem to find it at all when searching at https://www.moll.no/pinball/jsparts/MM.php

The wire gate is supposed to look like this:
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I did find this picture but that part number doesn't seem to be used at all for MM:
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I tried bending a wire gate myself but failed as the wire I had available was too thick and didn't fit the existing holes in the ball guide (and I dont want to drill in the metal to enlarge the holes).

I've searched Marcos, PPS and the other big part sellers but haven't found it there.

Found this gate that looks similar but it's for the wrong game, the number isn't in the MM parts list and no dimensions listed so have no idea if it fits:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-7320

Anyone know the correct partnr, or even better, could provide me a link with a shop selling it, that would be great.

Thanks

The wire is 12-7385.1 and is part of the Ball Guide #8 assembly (A-21736). PPS have the ball guide #8 bracket (04-10757.3) but unfortunately doesn't have the wire listed, nor does any other pinball supplier.

I used the parts list from ipdb.org to find it, as it shows the hierarchy of the assemblies/components. Note that 12-7385.1 doesn't have the best description to help you find it when using https://www.moll.no/pinball/jsparts/MM.php

Quick questions. I need to get my MM moved and am wondering if it will fit my car. Do you guys know the dimensions of the cabinet with the head down and without the legs? I am mostly worried with the maximum height…

Thanks!

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Vehicles_for_Moving_Pinball_Machines This my help.

Top right of this thread, is a search box for this thread. It must be in there by now.

LTG : )

Thanks!! Found the info I needed in 5 seconds!!!

If that is true, it is a very interesting coincidence...

Mounted the remake topper on my original MM! Now just need to figure out how to wire it up. Either way, it looks bad ass! Definitely of the best toppers ever

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Super awesome topper, but no chance is it better than the AFMr topper. That's the GOAT.

I think it’s just as cool, plus it doesn’t rattle and make a ton of noise like the AFMR topper. They’re both damn cool, though!

I will gladly agree

I used the 12v power supply with the driver circuits for certain flasher for grounds. Works good and the topper was designed for 12v

Nice! Do you have any pics of the wiring connections? You made the connections in the back box or under the playfield? That topper has like 25 wires coming out of it…looks intimidating!

Not yet I haven’t finished with tidying things up yet.

The yellow wire on all the plugs is 12v positive. You will find that the topper yellow wires are jumpered on some plugs so when you connect hot to one it will heat several others as well. So if you heat up all the plugs with 12v then you can test every other wire with a ground to test each lamp and lable them according to wire color. Most of the wire colors coinside with the lamp color.

Very cool, the lighting effects you wired up look fantastic! I’ll just leave the topper unlit until someone comes out with a kit or wiring instructions to make it work with the OG MM. I love the way it looks lit or unlit. One of the best toppers ever, for sure.

.

Awesome, thank you. I’ll play around with some test wiring connections and PM you with any questions. Your video post inspired me to finally order the remake topper

Hi. Newbie question here. Just got my MM and super happy. (Catapult gate was inverted saw post a few months back in this thread. Already saved a lot of time!)

However, many many times when I hit either complete orbits (left or right) the game does not advance towards joust victory.

Am I missing something? Is there a way to check if a sensor is failing or what is happening?

Thanks!!

Tests - Switch Edge - roll a ball over each switch in the lane back there and see if they work.

LTG : )

thanks. It seems to be working now, but tibia strange since I did nothing to solve the issue…

Just ensure the switch's actuator wire is not getting snagged on the edge of the slot in the PF - my orbit switches can occasionally not register a shot, it's just a matter of adjusting the switch position or the wire itself.

For info, Pinball Life has produced a sweet mod for MM. Plastic that covers the ball guide at the castle entrance.
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-400-0047-00

Wally

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Think a couple other modders have done this as well?
Have one on my game, should have been done when designed !

Not sure if the quality is the same as the guy selling them here on Pinside, but a much better price then his ($39) and his shipping costs ($9).

I'm renovating a MM I recently bought and I saw in the manual that there are two different versions for four assemblies in this game. After comparing old and new I understood the differences for two assemblies ("up down post" & "Drawbridge & Gate assembly") but for the other two "Popper Assembly" and "Troll Assembly" It was harder.

I see in the manual that for both of these the part number for the actual metal "housing" has changed, but the pictures in the manual are exactly the same what I can see. I also tried to google for pictures of both old and new to compare, but Marcos, PPS and other sites I looked at only had the new part so no images to compare to.

I would like to know how to differentiate the old and new "Popper Assembly" and "Troll Assembly", anyone got any hints? Is it simply that the newer version has larger/stronger welds or uses thicker metal?

Basically I'm trying to identify which version of the metal housing I currently got. Don't want to order the new ones and risk end up with exactly what I already have (and part price+over-sea shipping+customs+VAT are awful).

Before anyone states the obvious "check game manufacture date" that doesn't help me as previous owners have already mixed new and old items for the other two assemblies.

Thanks

Whoops wrong club. Still love the game.

Absolutely hated the cheap plastic stand offs ... switched them to the standard black posts in between the plastics ...
Couple more to go ....

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I'm renovating a MM and for the popper assembly A-22027 (moat VUK) I saw that it was missing the plastic spacers beneath the opto sensors.
popper_assy (resized).jpg

I ordered those two plastics and added them but It kind of feel the optos now are too close to the metal bracket above.

As it was, without plastic spacers:
without (resized).jpg

With spacers added as according to the manual:
with (resized).jpg

Aren't the optos almost obstructed by the metal above. Do the spacers really add any needed functionality here? Do any of you have those plastics mounted?

I bought a plexiglass backboard from pinballdecals and I'm not sure how to light it correctly. It has two holes that are covered with the vynil material. What type of bulbs are supposed to be used with this. Original led's will not fit. I'm kind of lost...

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had this installed on mine ... they are 906 bulbs with the domes that are the screw in type! not the twist!
mine has a super bright Led 12v light strip on the top of the plexiglass making for great effect when the lights flash!

First off the two holes will need to be cut out for the original flasher boards that you are showing in the pictures. Also with all holes that will need to be drilled out (flashers and light for princess) for screws I have found that only one size smaller drill bit maybe start with two size smaller than the screw and tap them out with a screw first after drilling really helps. I put tape around the drill bit on the depth I want to drill so that I don't drill all the way through.

As far as back lighting, this is up to you to decide. With MM I added flashers (four of them) to the back and tied them to the four flashers around the playfield. This gives the effect of the lightning flashing. Looks cool! For my Congo I just added lamp sockets and tied the lighting to the GI circuits. For my Addams Family I did light strips that were installed on the back wall of the cabinet. Had to tie these lights to a separate power source as the main power driver board kept blowing fuses due to too much on the circuit.

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I'm still on the lookout for a nice original apron rules card that isn't stained or torn. Any help locating one would be appreciated.