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Quoted from dasvis:Cool.
Make that Jubilee into a "rat rod" pin project. Rusty bent legs, taped backglass, beat up coin door, etc. - but make it all work & play as it should. Then take it to a show.........
That’s what I did with a dealers choice i picked up for free - game was complete but needed a complete shop out. Just completed it and its heading to the Allentown show in May.
Super Star is better than most folks give it credit for. Once you tune her up properly, kick up the back legs to 6-8 degrees, and the game takes on a nastier disposition. I love the center hole protected by the single drop... can be tricky at times as the ball has a tendency to bounce out on a direct hit toward a center drain. I also like the left/right drain posts. That coupled with the center post, you can really rack up the bonus 20K + extra ball.
One thing to keep in mind, is the bonus advance/subtract logic is controlled by a stepper unit located on the back-left underside of the playfield; a pain to get to but it almost always needs serious servicing, as it gets a LOT of heavy use during every game.
Artwork is a little wacky IMO, but you're not "playing" the artwork.
Quoted from Peruman:This Big Deal was part of a two-pin shed find from October of last year. Paid $100 for both EMs. The other one is a Solids and Stripes. I’m finally able to work on it. Would be further along but I tested positive for Covid last Saturday and energy has been lacking. Fortunately my symptoms have been like a bad cold so I consider myself lucky.
I’m tracking the restore of this game on another thread.
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Pop us some pix of your S&S! Underrated game and they don't pop up as often as you'd think. I had one for many years and finally sold it to make room for more games... kinda miss it! Beware of that huge relay bank under the playfield... that bugger is HEAVY!!!
Quoted from BeachPickle:Pulled a Bally bow and arrow out of an unheated junk shop in Vermont for $400. It was buried and surrounded on all sides by junk. Took me an hour just to get everything cleared away enough to disassemble the game.
It needed a ton of help, but is cleaning up nicely. I’m currently touching up the playfield and rebuilding the pops. Will install a playfield protector to take care of the cupped inserts/ unsealed paint. I Already rebuilt the flippers and serviced every stepper.
The only real problem I’m having with it is the stupid sealed motors Bally used. The flash motor was seized up, so I soaked it in alcohol, which freed it a bit, but not enough. So I tried this stuff called liquid bearings, which is supposedly a solvent that breaks down old grease, while also lubricating with a modern synthetic. It freed it up so it’s not struggling , but now it sounds like it has grit or broken teeth in the works. Very likely I’ll just disable the motor and set it permanently on the 3000 pt & open gate for hitting the target/ kick out.. which is unfortunate, but a LEP is rarely perfect.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Ya know... I've got a similar problem on my Bally Old Chicago, the motor is very slow, most likely due to hardened grease in the case... there's a service guide on pinrepair.com that shows that you can crack the case by drilling out the rivets, carefully take the gears out and soak them in solvent to clean them, perhaps use a bit of synthetic oil on the nylon cams, replace them in the proper position and use nuts/bolts in place of the rivets... that's one of the last things I'm going to be tackling... just a thought that it might help your motor's condition as well.
Quoted from bob_e:if the dried out grease is slowing the motor get in the gearbox before it burns out the motor.
It's not being played at all since waiting on the CPR playfield to outgas... definitely tackling the motor issue as well before it gets played.
Quoted from BubbaK:I just picked this up for $300. Got it set up and tested. Needs a few steppers serviced, but I played a bunch of games on it already. Only 19K plays..
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Steve Young/Pinball Resource has the correct caps for that game.
Quoted from mrm_4:Thanks in the middle of cleaning and tumbling every piece of mech hardware and hitting every switch with a mini wire brush to bring it back to life.
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The switch contacts are clean enough to eat off!
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Yeah I was eyeing that cap on eBay. 28 bucks for one cap makes my stomach hurt and is against the LEP creed but I might have to get it.
If you go to York or Allentown, there's a good chance you could score some/all of those caps, for about 10 bucks each. Several vendors have caps bins and I've seen a bunch of United caps in them, at least in years past.
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Glenelg, MD