Salem, OR
What's the latest in the LEP world? Anyone got any killer deals lately?
I have been busy on my 1947 Willys CJ2A rebuild & have been neglecting pinball for a while.
(Topic ID: 130288)
Quoted from bob_e:If a friend bought a Stern Pro new in box, instead of the LE model would he get banished from the group?
I'm not sure either would qualify for LEP membership unless they were from a flood. 
Still working on the Wms Hi-Hand machines. (Got 3 of the same, making it into one good one.)
Polishing up the ball lift mech and then I’m done, especially if my friend will actually make me plastics for a LEP price, like pizza.
Then I get to sell the remaining parts. Hope to trade the finished machine for another LEP that will be more of a keeper.
1 week later
Quoted from DCRand:Hasn't been a post here for a while. Thought I would toss one out: Two games for $300, and one of them Doodle Bug although with trashed back glass and really bad cabinet paint, but decent or better play field. The other is Honey, and probably a parts game although while the back box, back glass, and cabinet are terrible, the play field isn't bad.
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Update on this double game buy. Sadly decided to part out the Honey, it was really far gone, and not exactly a sought after game. Good news, still have the play field and plastics (and still for sale) but have sold enough other parts that I am now $0 into the Doodle Bug. So after finishing the Top Score in the next few weeks, that has taken me far to long to finish. Will be able to start the Doodle refurb and afford a new back glass, and maybe a cabinet repaint.
Quoted from DCRand:Update on this double game buy. Sadly decided to part out the Honey, it was really far gone, and not exactly a sought after game. Good news, still have the play field and plastics (and still for sale) but have sold enough other parts that I am now $0 into the Doodle Bug. So after finishing the Top Score in the next few weeks, that has taken me far to long to finish. Will be able to start the Doodle refurb and afford a new back glass, and maybe a cabinet repaint.
LEP man rule # 7 --- NEVER pass up a parts pin.
Quoted from mark532011:With crazy prices now, whats the reasonable amount to be classified as a LEP? $400-700?
I’d pay that for a machine with an acceptable - decent backglass, a playfield that can be polished up to play well that doesn’t have issues that would affect play (sunken inserts ok if they are fixable) and a cabinet that isn’t falling apart.
Is that LEP or just an ordinary project?
And I draw the line at a painted over cabinet. Not even for $250.
Quoted from undrdog:I’d pay that for a machine with an acceptable - decent backglass, a playfield that can be polished up to play well that doesn’t have issues that would affect play (sunken inserts ok if they are fixable) and a cabinet that isn’t falling apart.
Is that LEP or just an ordinary project?
And I draw the line at a painted over cabinet. Not even for $250.
I don't know, have had two painted over cabinets Jack in the Box, and Spot Bowler, where I stripped the latex and found good original paint below. One was very good, and one was just ok. But both were like wiping lipstick off of a pig to find a cute puppy. LOL
Picked this Jumping Jack up back in the fall for $250 and finally got around to getting it going.
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Backglass has some hairline cracks throughout most of it and some bigger peeling at the edges. Thought I’d triple thick it and paint the solid colors, but the entire thing was taped with 1/2” tape. Luckily it wasn’t just scotch tape and is pretty secure but not much I can do with it.
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Broken drop target right in the middle of the bank was the biggest challenge. Bonus stepper was missing the plunger arm mechanism and a spring that a buddy had a part for.
Playfield is ok. A poor touchup in front of 2 targets and they typical wear spots from the upper lockout holes.
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Just knocked down all 10 clowns!! It’s not perfect, but it’s a fun game and a steal of a price to go along with my other player lineup.
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Quoted from steviechs:Picked this Jumping Jack up back in the fall for $250 and finally got around to getting it going.
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Backglass has some hairline cracks throughout most of it and some bigger peeling at the edges. Thought I’d triple thick it and paint the solid colors, but the entire thing was taped with 1/2” tape. Luckily it wasn’t just scotch tape and is pretty secure but not much I can do with it.
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Broken drop target right in the middle of the bank was the biggest challenge. Bonus stepper was missing the plunger arm mechanism and a spring that a buddy had a part for.
Playfield is ok. A poor touchup in front of 2 targets and they typical wear spots from the upper lockout holes.
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Just knocked down all 10 clowns!! It’s not perfect, but it’s a fun game and a steal of a price to go along with my other player lineup.
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Killer 2-player! Keep hacking at it till its right.
2 months later
Quoted from PoBoyPinball:Picked up a LEP last weekend in the process of getting her going and cleaned
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Nice, didn't realize there was a soccer "Top Score".
Guelph, ON
Some more free.....too bad the pitch and bat got dragged out if the hoarders house in January until today. The Reno will just be for parts no doubt, but I think if someone had tge time and patience the Slugger could live again.
One pic is bad but it gives you an idea of the stuff in this person's back yard.....if I didn't grab them today they were going in a dumpster.
20210423_111307 (resized).jpg20210423_111316 (resized).jpg20210423_111335 (resized).jpg20210423_111347 (resized).jpg20210423_111356 (resized).jpg20210423_111405 (resized).jpg20210423_111527 (resized).jpg20210423_111536 (resized).jpgAlso got a mint playfield and cabinet Sound Stage for $300 a couple months ago. My first pin and luckily and easy fix to get it working flawless. $500 is definitely my max for a LEP.
837A9EAA-164A-4387-B15A-5DBA1DCC90E6 (resized).jpegBB9DDE35-724F-4802-A706-FE93D6B5C5BA (resized).jpegD9F592D0-759C-4765-A0B7-8022B944E2ED (resized).jpegIf one pays the $500 max for a LEP and then springs for a reproduction bg, does he get kicked out of the LEP club?
Got a nice Flipper Fair for $500, but the glass lost paint with each vibration on the way home.
Quoted from ringonu:Also got a mint playfield and cabinet Sound Stage for $300 a couple months ago. My first pin and luckily and easy fix to get it working flawless. $500 is definitely my max for a LEP.
This is lovely! Amazing condition! Congrats!
Quoted from ringonu:Also got a mint playfield and cabinet Sound Stage for $300 a couple months ago.
Those both look pretty good actually, good finds!
This Big Deal was part of a two-pin shed find from October of last year. Paid $100 for both EMs. The other one is a Solids and Stripes. I’m finally able to work on it. Would be further along but I tested positive for Covid last Saturday and energy has been lacking. Fortunately my symptoms have been like a bad cold so I consider myself lucky.
I’m tracking the restore of this game on another thread.
8A3695D0-3180-4E45-8B6C-08080F77F580 (resized).jpegC4DBB2F4-93DE-4CE4-9726-615EA5635DE5 (resized).jpegQuoted from PoBoyPinball:Local Facebook pinball group (buck and a half)[quoted image]
Had the two player version for my first pin. Kind of regret selling it.
Quoted from Peruman:This Big Deal was part of a two-pin shed find from October of last year. Paid $100 for both EMs. The other one is a Solids and Stripes. I’m finally able to work on it. Would be further along but I tested positive for Covid last Saturday and energy has been lacking. Fortunately my symptoms have been like a bad cold so I consider myself lucky.
I’m tracking the restore of this game on another thread.
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Pop us some pix of your S&S! Underrated game and they don't pop up as often as you'd think. I had one for many years and finally sold it to make room for more games... kinda miss it! Beware of that huge relay bank under the playfield... that bugger is HEAVY!!!
Not the best photos, but here it is. I do have the apron. It was not attached so I set it aside for safe keeping. Game works, I’ve been able to play a game on it. It’s not 100% but should be good to go once I’m done with it. This game is 3rd or 4th on the project queue.
I’ve watched gameplay videos, looks like a fun one.
Alberto
28584816-BC8E-48AC-93C3-E238C1470B53 (resized).jpegFF38E3D8-8BAE-4D8A-9D18-3CFFBEE52081 (resized).jpegPulled a Bally bow and arrow out of an unheated junk shop in Vermont for $400. It was buried and surrounded on all sides by junk. Took me an hour just to get everything cleared away enough to disassemble the game.
It needed a ton of help, but is cleaning up nicely. I’m currently touching up the playfield and rebuilding the pops. Will install a playfield protector to take care of the cupped inserts/ unsealed paint. I Already rebuilt the flippers and serviced every stepper.
The only real problem I’m having with it is the stupid sealed motors Bally used. The flash motor was seized up, so I soaked it in alcohol, which freed it a bit, but not enough. So I tried this stuff called liquid bearings, which is supposedly a solvent that breaks down old grease, while also lubricating with a modern synthetic. It freed it up so it’s not struggling , but now it sounds like it has grit or broken teeth in the works. Very likely I’ll just disable the motor and set it permanently on the 3000 pt & open gate for hitting the target/ kick out.. which is unfortunate, but a LEP is rarely perfect.
550A5176-61E6-4A3E-8C2F-9E7FDB64ED46 (resized).jpeg88117D58-D485-4139-8C19-1A04B7AE7F17 (resized).jpegAECC9341-6835-4A1A-A3A7-6D57A847A2D6 (resized).jpegC4B35C58-E734-4748-BEA5-AB398B859CE0 (resized).jpegQuoted from BeachPickle:Pulled a Bally bow and arrow out of an unheated junk shop in Vermont for $400. It was buried and surrounded on all sides by junk. Took me an hour just to get everything cleared away enough to disassemble the game.
It needed a ton of help, but is cleaning up nicely. I’m currently touching up the playfield and rebuilding the pops. Will install a playfield protector to take care of the cupped inserts/ unsealed paint. I Already rebuilt the flippers and serviced every stepper.
The only real problem I’m having with it is the stupid sealed motors Bally used. The flash motor was seized up, so I soaked it in alcohol, which freed it a bit, but not enough. So I tried this stuff called liquid bearings, which is supposedly a solvent that breaks down old grease, while also lubricating with a modern synthetic. It freed it up so it’s not struggling , but now it sounds like it has grit or broken teeth in the works. Very likely I’ll just disable the motor and set it permanently on the 3000 pt & open gate for hitting the target/ kick out.. which is unfortunate, but a LEP is rarely perfect.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Don’t give up on it until you try some Kano Labs AeroKroil. Everyone should have a can of this stuff sitting on the shelf.
“The oil that creeps!”
Quoted from RGarriott:Picked up a Bally Space Time for $400. It has a new backglass, decent pf but the back right cab at the leg is blown out. Everything works but doesn’t end a game. Nothing i cant take care of.
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The backglass alone is $300. Someone just give up on it?
Quoted from Murphdom:The backglass alone is $300. Someone just give up on it?
Yeah he didnt want to deal with fixing the cab. He had other projects to deal with and was wanting room to do some remodeling.
Quoted from BeachPickle:Pulled a Bally bow and arrow out of an unheated junk shop in Vermont for $400. It was buried and surrounded on all sides by junk. Took me an hour just to get everything cleared away enough to disassemble the game.
It needed a ton of help, but is cleaning up nicely. I’m currently touching up the playfield and rebuilding the pops. Will install a playfield protector to take care of the cupped inserts/ unsealed paint. I Already rebuilt the flippers and serviced every stepper.
The only real problem I’m having with it is the stupid sealed motors Bally used. The flash motor was seized up, so I soaked it in alcohol, which freed it a bit, but not enough. So I tried this stuff called liquid bearings, which is supposedly a solvent that breaks down old grease, while also lubricating with a modern synthetic. It freed it up so it’s not struggling , but now it sounds like it has grit or broken teeth in the works. Very likely I’ll just disable the motor and set it permanently on the 3000 pt & open gate for hitting the target/ kick out.. which is unfortunate, but a LEP is rarely perfect.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Ya know... I've got a similar problem on my Bally Old Chicago, the motor is very slow, most likely due to hardened grease in the case... there's a service guide on pinrepair.com that shows that you can crack the case by drilling out the rivets, carefully take the gears out and soak them in solvent to clean them, perhaps use a bit of synthetic oil on the nylon cams, replace them in the proper position and use nuts/bolts in place of the rivets... that's one of the last things I'm going to be tackling... just a thought that it might help your motor's condition as well.
Quoted from Dono:Ya know... I've got a similar problem on my Bally Old Chicago, the motor is very slow, most likely due to hardened grease in the case... there's a service guide on pinrepair.com that shows that you can crack the case by drilling out the rivets, carefully take the gears out and soak them in solvent to clean them, perhaps use a bit of synthetic oil on the nylon cams, replace them in the proper position and use nuts/bolts in place of the rivets... that's one of the last things I'm going to be tackling... just a thought that it might help your motor's condition as well.
if the dried out grease is slowing the motor get in the gearbox before it burns out the motor.
Quoted from Dono:pinrepair.com
thanks, I’ve read that and have been trying to talk myself into it. But, I’ve been put off by the Ballys having 6 tiny rivets vs gottlieb’s 4 large rivets. All the guides and online videos I’ve been able to find only reference the gottliebs.
I also only have a hand drill, no press, which seems like a great way to maul the case so it never fits together again.
I’m probably over thinking it.
Quoted from bob_e:if the dried out grease is slowing the motor get in the gearbox before it burns out the motor.
It's not being played at all since waiting on the CPR playfield to outgas... definitely tackling the motor issue as well before it gets played.
Quoted from bob_e:if the dried out grease is slowing the motor get in the gearbox before it burns out the motor.
I don’t know if this will work but a good friend of mine who was a big EM guy swore by Remington gun oil the aerosol type for cleaning and lubing. I haven’t tried it but I know he had used it.
Been working slowly on a Williams OXO with an awfully painted cabinet. The pin was pretty much complete but sitting for a long time apart. Backglass is ok and playfield has some wear and planking. I’m making a playfield protector. Hoping to have it done next month.
1311DAAE-C51B-4651-B078-2A1F156D24E1 (resized).jpeg49219F21-CE3B-4D02-A078-F196D44D1DDC (resized).jpegA810CEDB-12FD-43AB-883A-DEEE1F302255 (resized).jpegCF1C8173-8A3D-4441-8831-22679C4640C2 (resized).jpegQuoted from wayinla:Been working slowly on a Williams OXO with an awfully painted cabinet. The pin was pretty much complete but sitting for a long time apart. Backglass is ok and playfield has some wear and planking. I’m making a playfield protector. Hoping to have it done next month.
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Cleaning up nice!
I recently joined the LEP club.. I picked up a Jungle Queen for $250. I put another $300 into it, including a playfield protector. Lots of elbow grease. Game plays great now. Looks good in the dark. Playfield artwork is pretty trashed, but even the ugly ones need love.
I also picked up a Target Alpha for $350. Playfield in better shape than JQ. Guy had a brand new set of drop targets with it. After lots of elbow grease and another $200 or so, it will be a good playing game. Still sorting out one more issue.
PXL_20210321_220434207 (resized).jpgPXL_20210321_220442058 (resized).jpgPXL_20210403_214220630 (resized).jpgPXL_20210403_212657979 (resized).jpgQuoted from BubbaK:I recently joined the LEP club.. I picked up a Jungle Queen for $250. I put another $300 into it, including a playfield protector. Lots of elbow grease. Game plays great now. Looks good in the dark. Playfield artwork is pretty trashed, but even the ugly ones need love.
I also picked up a Target Alpha for $350. Playfield in better shape than JQ. Guy had a brand new set of drop targets with it. After lots of elbow grease and another $200 or so, it will be a good playing game. Still sorting out one more issue.
So satisfying to bring them back from the dead.... great work!
Quoted from wayinla:Been working slowly on a Williams OXO with an awfully painted cabinet. The pin was pretty much complete but sitting for a long time apart. Backglass is ok and playfield has some wear and planking. I’m making a playfield protector. Hoping to have it done next month.
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Looks good. Fun game.
Quoted from wayinla:Been working slowly on a Williams OXO with an awfully painted cabinet. The pin was pretty much complete but sitting for a long time apart. Backglass is ok and playfield has some wear and planking. I’m making a playfield protector. Hoping to have it done next month.
Just in case it helps, here's a thread from a couple years ago where I shared my experiences making a DIY playfield protector: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/i-made-a-playfield-protector-self-evaulation . Lots of other folks chimed in to provide good advise and examples.
My story in the thread kinda ended with the playfield remake being announced about a month after I finished the work. I did get one of the remake playfields but didn't get it for about a year because they also remade BOP and I had them ship both in the same package. The DIY protector worked well for that year. Separately, is a game still LEP if you drop an $800 playfield into it?
-Rob
-visit https://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or my replacement LED display boards for model H & model S Skee Ball
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