(Topic ID: 215918)

✔ Lighted Magnetic Hinge Covers - Lighted Pinball Mods

By Litedpinballmods

5 years ago


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#42 5 years ago
Quoted from Litedpinballmods:

If anyone has feedback on what titles or silhouettes you would like to see, please suggest here. If figure this product will be changing, we will probably loose some titles as we go, but plan to add a lot of silhouettes. An example of a possible idea is on Houdini. On Houdini we may do the title, but we should have done in a couple of weeks, chains with a lock and key. After taking a close look at the side of the game, guages and/or the valve may look very good on that game.
Suggestions please. Main limitation is just one light color per hinge.
Thanks
Dan

Dan, is that the "greenest" you can get on TS? It looks more like aqua, but maybe that's my monitor. Although, in the video, it looks like it matches the Aurich translite, which is what I have, so maybe it's an issue with the photo. Do you guys do an Aurich TS speaker panel??

I also think T2 would look better in red. I have your ultimate speaker panel for my TAF and I LOVE it! It uses the service outlet already. Any issue with plugging both into the service outlet using an adapter? Interested in TAF, T2 (in red), and TS.

2 weeks later
#47 5 years ago

Ok, I just went through this the other night with my TAF. The video was of very little help, except freezing it at the 2s mark to get a closeup of the plugs. This was the best I could do on my phone:

There are 3 coaxial power connectors (“CPC”) on the circuit board, two of which are on the long side of the board, and one of which is on the short side of the board (circled in yellow in my screen capture). You don’t use the one on the short side.

1. Plug the small DC converter into the CPC (green arrow) closest to the unused CPC (yellow arrow)

2. Plug the AC adapter into the other CPC (red arrow).

3. Attach the optical cable with the white female push connector to the white male pin connector on the board (blue arrow).

Sorry I didn’t take install pics of my own. I’m using the YT screen capture, so it’s a crappy image quality zoomed in.

After that it’s pretty straight forward.

4. Install each hinge cover on their respective sides.

5. Each hinge cover has a single connector. Connect each hinge cover connector into one of the “y” sides of the y-connector.

6. The base of the y-connector plugs into the extension.

Steps 1-6 do before touching your machine.

7. Now lean the head forward (having disconnected any bolts or brackets locking it down) and feed the extension wire (with the y-adapter plugged into it, with each hinge cover plugged into that) as far as you can down into the hole.

Note: Figure out what’s the best side to feed it down, depending on obstructions at the back of the playfield. E.g. on TAF, I couldn’t fish it down the right side, because the Thing box blocked me from retrieving the wires, so I brought it down the other side.

8. Align the wires from each hinge cover to sit under the head, and secure the head in place.

9. Lift the playfield, and retrieve the extension wire. Note: Unless you have REALLY long legs (or arms), you’ll probably find it easier to reach the wires standing on a small step stool or the first step of a step ladder.

10. Gently take the slack out of the extension and the wires connected to it.

11. Locate your service outlet, and route the wires to be close to its general location.

12. I did not mount the circuit board (yet), but now would be a good time to figure out where you want to mount it. Wire everything up and make sure it’s all working before you mount it.

13. Plug your AC adapter 110 volt plug into the service outlet. A green light will come on the circuit board showing it’s receiving power. (Going off memory here; I’m not home to verify.)

14. Expose the optical sensor to a light source (any GI bulb will do nicely) and your hinge covers should light up.

15. Route the optical cable to your light source of choice. I chose to route mine around to the coin slot bulb on the coin door. I zip-tied it so that it hung in the same side as the bulb and tucked it into the bracket which secures the bulb. If I ever want to turn it off (which I probably never will), I can just open the coin door, flip the optical wire to the other side of the coin slot where it’s dark, and it turns off immediately.

Close everything back up, and Robert’s your father’s brother!
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#48 5 years ago

The final results!! AMAZING!!!

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#60 5 years ago

Here’s my T2 upgrade. Had the same problem as you AJ, until I turned the potentiometer slightly left.

They were supposed to be red, but came out pretty orange.

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#62 5 years ago
Quoted from dnapac:

Try turn the potentiometer down slightly. Light won’t be as bright, but the red should be deeper. Just a thought.

Assuming turning it down is turning the screw clockwise, it’s down as far as it will go.

#68 5 years ago
Quoted from Litedpinballmods:

Turning the pedometer switch is a sensitivity switch for the income light to send the on and off signals to the chip, The pedometer will not adjust the brightness of color of the hinges. Some time the hinge color does pick up a little of the color of the game that is next to it

There's no game to the right of it, which is where I have the best view of the hinge covers. They're orange, not red. They're only slightly darker than the DMD...

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