✔ Lighted Magnetic Hinge Covers - Lighted Pinball Mods

(Topic ID: 215918)

✔ Lighted Magnetic Hinge Covers - Lighted Pinball Mods


By Litedpinballmods

82 days ago



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There are 74 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 20 days ago

sealawyer thanks for the detailed instructions! I followed those exactly and unfortunately I get nothing on my Met Pro lighted hinge covers. The board has a red light. Are you sure it's supposed to be green? The AC adapter plugged into the service port has a blue light so I assume it's working. I've checked all the connectors and even tried shining a very bright flashlight directly into the optical sensor, yet I get nothing. Anyone have any other ideas, or do I have a bad part or parts?

#52 20 days ago

Would you be able to make something similar to slide behind the upgraded GB armor for the proton beam?

#53 20 days ago
Quoted from parsonsaj:

sealawyer thanks for the detailed instructions! I followed those exactly and unfortunately I get nothing on my Met Pro lighted hinge covers. The board has a red light. Are you sure it's supposed to be green? The AC adapter plugged into the service port has a blue light so I assume it's working. I've checked all the connectors and even tried shining a very bright flashlight directly into the optical sensor, yet I get nothing. Anyone have any other ideas, or do I have a bad part or parts?

We will have detailed insteucrions in a few days, had some website issues.
The red light meams you have power. Their is a small pedometer that you can adjust. When you you have enough light, another light on the board will turn green. When you have a green light, power is going to the hinge covers. Please make sure the light sensor plug is plugged completely into the board.

#54 20 days ago

The pedometer is light blue and a small Phillips head screw driver will fit into it. On metallica, if you put the light sensor in the back box, the hinges will be on all the time the game is on. If you put the light sensor under the playfield, when the GI lights go on and off, your hinges should turn on and off.

#55 20 days ago
Quoted from titanpenguin:

Would you be able to make something similar to slide behind the upgraded GB armor for the proton beam?

Something like that can be made, I am sorry, but we won't be able to. We have huge plans with this current project. I will give you an idea of the direction we are going in and have been working on for quite a while.

We have hired a full time programmer to get our website right. We are installing software that will allow people to make their own hinges. You click on the size hinge, the color of panel and then type in what you want the hinge to say and we will custom male it for you. We are in the process of getting public domain fonts to match the fonts of the games. We are also testing different color vinyls to try to match colors to LE models.

We are hoping to have that software in place before Chicago expo, so we can demonstrate it their.

We the software in place, you will be able to order custom hinges that could say " Dan's arcade" or "Chuck's Bar". These will offer many ways you can customize your game through the hinges.

Another project we have been working on is lighted instruction cards. We are currently doing tests to marry our hinge project with our lighted instruction cards. When we get those working properly together, we will be offering customizable lighted aprons that will work on both metal and plastic aprons. Hope to have a prototype by Chicago.

We have those and a few other cool projects we are working on. We are putting about 60 hours a week into this project.

The hinges do look increadable, pictures do not do them justice. Ask people that have them installed or people that saw them in person at Sturbridge.

Dan

#56 20 days ago

HI Dan - i sent you a pm about my TZ hinge covers. Thanks

#57 20 days ago
Quoted from Litedpinballmods:

The pedometer is light blue and a small Phillips head screw driver will fit into it. On metallica, if you put the light sensor in the back box, the hinges will be on all the time the game is on. If you put the light sensor under the playfield, when the GI lights go on and off, your hinges should turn on and off.

Thanks for that info, once I cranked the potentiometer WAY up, the green light came on on the board and the hinge covers lit up. Looks great now!

#58 19 days ago
Quoted from parsonsaj:

Thanks for that info, once I cranked the potentiometer WAY up, the green light came on on the board and the hinge covers lit up. Looks great now!

OK I spoke too soon... the hinges are lit up but they don't turn off when the game does. Maybe the optical sensor is bad? If I turn the potentiometer back the other way even a little bit, no matter how bright a light I shine on the sensor, the hinges don't come on. I've triple checked the fit of the pins from the sensor at the connector.

#59 19 days ago

Hi Dan - Question for you... on the relay board supplied with the hinge covers there is a second output connector/port that is not used. Can it be used to power something else? Thanks

#60 19 days ago

Here’s my T2 upgrade. Had the same problem as you AJ, until I turned the potentiometer slightly left.

They were supposed to be red, but came out pretty orange.

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#61 19 days ago
Quoted from SeaLawyer:

Here’s my T2 upgrade. Had the same problem as you AJ, until I turned the potentiometer slightly left.
They were supposed to be red, but came out pretty orange.

Try turn the potentiometer down slightly. Light won’t be as bright, but the red should be deeper. Just a thought.

#62 19 days ago
Quoted from dnapac:

Try turn the potentiometer down slightly. Light won’t be as bright, but the red should be deeper. Just a thought.

Assuming turning it down is turning the screw clockwise, it’s down as far as it will go.

#63 19 days ago
Quoted from SeaLawyer:

Assuming turning it down is turning the screw clockwise, it’s down as far as it will go.

I think it’s counter clockwise, just a quarter turn or less. If that doesn’t work. Sorry. The SW is nice and red. If you turn it “all the way down” it should turn off...no light.

#64 15 days ago
Quoted from parsonsaj:

OK I spoke too soon... the hinges are lit up but they don't turn off when the game does. Maybe the optical sensor is bad? If I turn the potentiometer back the other way even a little bit, no matter how bright a light I shine on the sensor, the hinges don't come on. I've triple checked the fit of the pins from the sensor at the connector.

If you could turn the pedometer, and it got to work at some level, I would feel everything is working fine. defenatly can be fine tuning by putting in to different places in the game. If you want simple on and off as the game turns on and off, I have hound putting the light sensor in the back box, with the senor facing you main light. When you get the green light on, slowly turn it till the green lite turns off, then reserve Indira do the green light is on and you should be good.

If you are putting the sensor under the play field you will have more possibility. Difference of LED's or original, the number and color of lights can all impact placement. At the lost show the person next to us had a tron. My partner Chuck Norris in stalled it in the game by putting the sensor next to the coil door look and it worked perfect, on all of the time. The owner change some of times on that game, and the sensor fell, and as some lights turned on and off, they turned on and off the hinges, I change that by tiepin the wire to something in the bottom of the game and they went to on all of the time

Many things can change performance, having the sensor close to a large group of lights can also help the settings. The wire is over 30" long so you can put it any place in the game.

A bit more expatriation and you should get it.

#65 15 days ago
Quoted from gac:

Hi Dan - Question for you... on the relay board supplied with the hinge covers there is a second output connector/port that is not used. Can it be used to power something else? Thanks

Yes. We designed this board for a few applications, and one application needs 2 outputs. The board is designed to handle 20 amps at 12V

We will be selling these separate in a few weeks.

Dan

#66 15 days ago
Quoted from SeaLawyer:

Assuming turning it down is turning the screw clockwise, it’s down as far as it will go.

Turning the pedometer switch is a sensitivity switch for the income light to send the on and off signals to the chip, The pedometer will not adjust the brightness of color of the hinges. Some time the hinge color does pick up a little of the color of the game that is next to it

#67 15 days ago
Quoted from Litedpinballmods:

If you could turn the pedometer, and it got to work at some level, I would feel everything is working fine. defenatly can be fine tuning by putting in to different places in the game. If you want simple on and off as the game turns on and off, I have hound putting the light sensor in the back box, with the senor facing you main light. When you get the green light on, slowly turn it till the green lite turns off, then reserve Indira do the green light is on and you should be good.
If you are putting the sensor under the play field you will have more possibility. Difference of LED's or original, the number and color of lights can all impact placement. At the lost show the person next to us had a tron. My partner Chuck Norris in stalled it in the game by putting the sensor next to the coil door look and it worked perfect, on all of the time. The owner change some of times on that game, and the sensor fell, and as some lights turned on and off, they turned on and off the hinges, I change that by tiepin the wire to something in the bottom of the game and they went to on all of the time
Many things can change performance, having the sensor close to a large group of lights can also help the settings. The wire is over 30" long so you can put it any place in the game.
A bit more expatriation and you should get it.

Thanks for the detailed response. I have found that the only way I can get the hinges to light up is to crank the potentiometer all the way down (or up, depending on how you want to say it). My testing has been with a bright LED flashlight shining directly on the optical sensor, so there's no room for doubt about the light being bright enough. If I back off on the potentiometer even a tiny bit, the green light on the board goes off and the hinge won't light up no matter how bright the light is shining on it.

#68 15 days ago
Quoted from Litedpinballmods:

Turning the pedometer switch is a sensitivity switch for the income light to send the on and off signals to the chip, The pedometer will not adjust the brightness of color of the hinges. Some time the hinge color does pick up a little of the color of the game that is next to it

There's no game to the right of it, which is where I have the best view of the hinge covers. They're orange, not red. They're only slightly darker than the DMD...

#69 14 days ago

Here is a installation video for the hinges This is of the electronics, with a few explanations. We will have future videos of the installation in games and of how to hook up to import games.

We have hired a full time programmer, and it will be sometime between 45 days a a few months to have the program installed that will allow you to make your own personalized hinges in your chosen font, color and design. If anyone has input on what you would like to see installed on the program, please notify me.

The program will have the choice of 5 hinge sizes:

Stern
Bally/Williams/WPC
Sega
Data/East triangle
Data/East size that is very close to Sega

You will have choice of template layout, one line, two lines, slight curve and so on. We expect about 20 layouts.

Choice of 8 panel lights:

Red
Orange
Light Blue
Dark Blue
Green
Yellow
White
Purple

Fonts, getting a list of fonts together, expect to have 30 to 60 fonts.

We only have matte black vinyl at this time, but are working on other colors. A few challenges on other colors.

The program will also offer suggested hinge size, color of light, template style, and font layout. Let's you you want a hinge cover that says "Dan's Game Room" and you want to put it on "Theatre of Magic". Put "Theater of Magic" in the search, the program will suggest a arch template, matching font, WPC hinge size and red lighted panel. You just type in "Dan's Game Room", you will have a personalized set of hinges for you game that matches your game.

Programmer is also updating the website, cleaning up everything. We will have plasma's listed on the website in the next 2 weeks.

Thanks
Dan

#70 14 days ago
Quoted from parsonsaj:

Thanks for the detailed response. I have found that the only way I can get the hinges to light up is to crank the potentiometer all the way down (or up, depending on how you want to say it). My testing has been with a bright LED flashlight shining directly on the optical sensor, so there's no room for doubt about the light being bright enough. If I back off on the potentiometer even a tiny bit, the green light on the board goes off and the hinge won't light up no matter how bright the light is shining on it.

We find it works better with light in a area them a spot light, such as an LED. Not sure why. We recommend putting the sensor in the back box, it has the most consistent on and off lighting there. We have these installed in many games here and when we were in New England, we installed a few for other vendors at the show. The most interesting was Tron. I (Dan) have done most installs of this product, but Chuck installed a set in a Tron for pinnovators.com. When Chuck installed it, he put the sensor next to the light on the coin door. When the game was on, the hinges turned on, when the game was turned off, that hinges turned off, done.

As the show went on, the coin door was open, the sensor dropped and worked differently. When the game was in normal play, the hinges were on, but during game play, the play field can go mainly dark. When that happened the hinges turned off. He asked us what was going on, and we showed him the pedometer and placed the sensor in a different location. Guess what? Different results. On Tron, the game has a lot of inserts that blink on and off, as those inserts blinked on and off, his hinges blinked on and off. I told him I could move the sensor and fix it. He told me no, he liked it like that, and that is how he left it.

Point being is we designed the relay to work off of light, which gives a lot of options. We suggest putting the sensor in the back box, but you can get many different results buy placing the sensor in different places. If you want more specific results like we got on Tron, play with it, and you may be able to get it, we will advertise just the main on and off.

The inverter works off of 12 volts, which also gives options. We designed the hinges to work off of a service outlet with a light sensor, because that is a universal fit for all games that has a service outlet and does not impact any game warranty. Because the hinges work off of 12 volt you do have custom install options. The mod takes less then 1 amp at 12 volt, and we will list more specific power consumption on our website.

I am not sure if it is posted, but we can do other color on hinge then what we list. Metallica is a good example, it looks good in a lot of different lights colors. We can custom do a hinge in your color for an additional $10, just send us a PM.

#71 14 days ago
Quoted from SeaLawyer:

There's no game to the right of it, which is where I have the best view of the hinge covers. They're orange, not red. They're only slightly darker than the DMD...

Colors are an odd thing, everyone see colors different, and often the color you are looking at is relative to a color next to it and the lighting. How many shades of red are their? Here is a pillow with over 100 red shades on it.

Here is a picture of our 8 colors lit up, the red is very red versus the orange next to it. We won't be doing different version of a color, because their are just to many color versions.

If the shade is not to your liking, we understand that, and do offer a refund if you don't like it.

Thanks
Dan

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#72 11 days ago

Hello, they look good, but I am a bit confused. If I order the TZ or IJ, do I get the label on one side (cf post #25) and a fancy pictogram on the other one (cf post #3 or #45), or just the label on both side?

1 week later
#73 3 days ago
Quoted from etien:

Hello, they look good, but I am a bit confused. If I order the TZ or IJ, do I get the label on one side (cf post #25) and a fancy pictogram on the other one (cf post #3 or #45), or just the label on both side?

Etien, we can make whatever version you like, in whatever color you like. We can make what you want, send us a PM and we will take care of you.

#74 18 hours ago

Many thnaks for your mods and congrats again

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