Williams F-14 Tomcat small problems

Started 3 years ago by Xanathar in forum TechTech: Alpha-numeric games.



Williams F-14 Tomcat small problems


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  • Started 3 years ago by Xanathar
  • 13 Pinsiders participating in this thread.
  • Latest reply from Pac-Fan

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    3 years, 1 month ago
    #

    Having a small issue with my F-14 Tomcat by Williams

    I recently replaced the Flasher lamps with Ablaze 9 LED flashers. Lower Playfield flashers work AWESOME. The 2 flasher in the Upper playfied near the Pop Bumber seem to just stay on. When its thier time to flash, they flash with more intensity, but never shut off. They stay on. Any Ideas?

    Also I cannot enter any high score initials. The flippers work and all can play the game... but if you manage to beat a high scores you can't enter initials. This may or may have nothing to do with this, but the game no longer makes the gun sound if you hit the flippers when you have the ball sitting near the plunger on start of ball

    Hope I explained this right

    Let me know if you can help

    Thanks

    Xan


    3 years, 1 month ago
    #

    What skill level is it set on? If I remember correctly the system 11 Williams games wont allow high score keeping in easy level/mode. As for the lights, a stuck micro switch maybe??? Or a switching transister going out???


    3 years, 1 month ago
    #

    do you have the manual for the game??? you can download it from IPDB.

    not sure about the LEDs being lit all the time.
    did someone try to unsuccessfully mod the game to add the extra flashers per the original design?

    now about the flippers
    if you look at the switch matrix table you'll see there are 2 switches dedicated to the end of stroke for the left and right main flippers.
    switch 15 and 63 both on row 7.
    a simple switch test in the diagnostics mode will tell you if the game is seeing those switches.
    these switches close when the flipper reaches the end of it's travel.
    they are completely separate from the 50V flipper circuitry but tell the MPU when the flippers are activated for things like the high scores and the "missiles" at the beginning of the game.

    Todd


    3 years, 1 month ago
    #

    I have the manual. No one has tried to mod the game, as if I put normal #89 flashers bulbs in there, they work fine.

    Hmm.... I just replaced the flipper kits mechanisms ( spring and bar ) on both flippers so maybe I messed somthing up there. I will have to look to see. Still confused about the LEDs though.

    Thanks

    Xan


    3 years, 1 month ago
    #

    That is the first I heard of flashers ghosting. If it were only one I'd think maybe the bulb was bad but both are doing it.
    Are both flashers on the same circuit?
    Are you certain the incandescents are shutting all the way off? Could be they are not but just aren't as bright so you don't readily notice it. Look closely at them to see.


    3 years, 1 month ago
    #

    No they are off entirely. Triple Checked. As far as I can tell they are both on the same circuit. They are next to one another in the top playfield. Blue and white ones


    3 years ago
    #

    I'm having a simular problem with LED flashers. I just bought the LED kit for a Williams High Speed. All of the LED's work great except the flashers. For some reason, the LED flashers stay lit. It doesn't matter if it's in the backbox or the playfield, the behavior is the same - the LED flashers stay lit. They do flash..but never go 'off' completely. I've seen a couple posts rfom people having the same problem - this one - and another for a Firepower.

    I've removed the LED flashers and put back in the regular bulbs - they work. Any ideas?


    2 years, 7 months ago
    #

    To fix the flashers, either remove the 330ohm resistors from the flashlamp resistor boards.
    Or, disconnect the GND wires from these boards & cover them with heatshrink.
    The resistors are there to keep the filaments of the flashlamps 'warm' when they aren't being fired, so that they don't suffer as much as they would from being switched cold.
    I think this is what is causing the LED's to remain on after the transistors have turned off.


    Atomicboy

    Pinball guru
    5,470,250 2
    2 years, 7 months ago
    #
    sparkypinmonkey said:

    To fix the flashers, either remove the 330ohm resistors from the flashlamp resistor boards.
    Or, disconnect the GND wires from these boards & cover them with heatshrink.
    The resistors are there to keep the filaments of the flashlamps 'warm' when they aren't being fired, so that they don't suffer as much as they would from being switched cold.
    I think this is what is causing the LED's to remain on after the transistors have turned off.

    Bingo, except I believe the warming resitors are for exactly that, to keep the filament warm so that when they need to pop a light, it flashers brightly, as without it it is a slow and more dull turn on.


    2 years, 7 months ago
    #
    Atomicboy said:

    Bingo, except I believe the warming resitors are for exactly that, to keep the filament warm so that when they need to pop a light, it flashers brightly, as without it it is a slow and more dull turn on.

    If it was a 12v lamp on a 12v circuit, yes, you would get a slow turn on.
    Given that it's a 12v lamp running on a 34v supply, i don't think there'd be any issues with speed.


    2 years, 7 months ago
    #

    Also, if you don't want to cut wires or remove resistors you can replace one (1) of the flashers in/of the same circuit with a regular bulb and the LED flashers will not remain lit and still work normal. One problem with this is you have to do this to each coil/flasher circuit.


    2 years, 7 months ago
    #
    jwwhite15 said:

    Also, if you don't want to cut wires or remove resistors you can replace one (1) of the flashers in/of the same circuit with a regular bulb and the LED flashers will not remain lit and still work normal. One problem with this is you have to do this to each coil/flasher circuit.

    Good 'no-mod' solution! (Especially if you want to retain your LED's when u sell it.)


    1 month, 1 week ago
    #

    I am about to restore an F14 and will maybe put led's in it.

    sparkypinmonkey said:

    To fix the flashers, either remove the 330ohm resistors from the flashlamp resistor boards.
    Or, disconnect the GND wires from these boards & cover them with heatshrink.

    Is removing the ground the same thing as disconnecting the whole board?

    (Asking this since there are resistors missing on my boards and wonder if I can just let that be if I go for LEDs and disconnect the GND from all of the boards.)

    Post edited by kissedin: Clarification


    1 month, 1 week ago
    #

    im also curious about this


    1 month, 1 week ago
    #

    There is four resistors on each flash lamp board, two for each circuit. One is a warming resistor the other is a droping resistor. You need the droping resistor in the the circuit or the lamp will not light. You don't need the warming resistor, it just lets the lamp flash qwicker and brighter because it keeps the bulb warm. This is not needed for LEDs, it will make it stay on all the time. To use LEDs either remove ground wire and insulate it, or lift one lead of the warming resistor.


    2 weeks, 5 days ago
    #

    I have an f14 tomcat and had the same problem. Flashers stayed lit when i put in LEDs . GRUMPY told me to remove the ground wires on the warming resistor boards and heat shrink them . Honestly takes 20 mins to do. Worked like a charm. Flashers work amazing now !! (thanks again GRUMP lol ) . pm me if you want photos showing what i did .


    2 weeks, 4 days ago
    #

    Easy to put back later when you sell it. Im working on hooking up a interactive LED strips to my F-14. 6 red strips going under the cabinent then up the back to work with the 6 on the back board. Then 1 red strip, 1 white strip and blue strip to work with the upper p/f lamps. And 1 RGB strip to work in attact mode. When Im done I will post a video of it. It will be just crazy bright when it give an extra ball.


    2 weeks, 4 days ago
    #
    GRUMPY said:

    Im working on hooking up a interactive LED strips to my F-14. 6 red strips going under the cabinent then up the back to work with the 6 on the back board. Then 1 red strip, 1 white strip and blue strip to work with the upper p/f lamps. And 1 RGB strip to work in attact mode. When Im done I will post a video of it. It will be just crazy bright when it give an extra ball.

    Sounds very cool ! Cant wait to see your video .


    1 week, 5 days ago
    #

    Hello folks...Just inherited an awesome Tomcat F14 machine. I'm looking to move the (corroded) battery harness and was looking for some directions on how to do it. Can anyone help with details and possibly pics?

    Thanks!


    1 week, 5 days ago
    #
    TheBIGTwist said:

    move the (corroded) battery harness and was looking for some directions on how to do it. Can anyone help with details and possibly

    There's lots of pics and instructions online for a Sys11 battery repair. However, in a nutshell:
    1) Desolder it

    2) If there appears to be ANY battery damage on the board, mix half and half water and white vinegar and wash all affected areas (and a bit more) on the board. Rinse with water and dry immediately with blow drier/compressed air (blow out from under any chips). This neutralizes the leakage. Repair any damaged traces -- look close and use a resistance tester on your multimeter--should be 0.03 ohms or less. The traces are the thinnest of any boards of that era and easily damaged.

    3) Brush the + and - holes (lower left towards center of board, upper right towards top edge of board) and solder in at least 18" of wire, preferably red and black colored to know which is which.

    4) Buy a 3 position AA battery holder (2 for 99 cents shipped from China via eBay), a 4 position will also work if you solder a wire across one of the bays. You do NOT need to install a diode on a Williams as there is already a diode on the board. The diode prevents charging of the batteries.

    5) Solder the battery holder to the two wires you already installed. Solder direct to the terminals as the ones included are usually 26 gauge crap thin and breakable.

    6) Lay the pack on the bottom of the backbox, or screw it to the side. (I prefer laying on the bottom because if you ever have to remove the board for work, if you screw it to the side, you'd have to remove a battery and lose your high scores to detach it)

    7) Consider buying Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries (with a 2033 or later expiration date). They will last a lot longer before needing to be changed, and info from others is that they almost never have any leakage concerns.



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