Version 2 of Hulk button. I wanted to find a way to activate Hulks arms only and not affect the rules. I asked the pinball-world famous(infamous?) Kerry Imming to take a look at the schematics of the driver board and let me know if he saw a solution. He sent me a solution and I hooked it up the other day. It works great,does not score points or affect game rules,and clears the ball quicker because Hulk does not twist and the magnet does not come on. The only down-side is that it is active in attract mode. Thanks for your help Kerry!

Here's the schematic.

avengers_hulk_trigger.gifavengers_hulk_trigger.gif

Can you photograph the internal wiring? This is all very helpful. Thank you for your ingenuity!

That's to Tracelifter too. Excellent contributions to the hobby and to TAV.

I'll take pictures tonight. It is very easy to hook up and all you need for parts,besides a tournament switch, is a 620-1K ohm resistor. I used a 680 ohm which I had laying around. I recommend that you stay as close to 620 as possible. I soldered the resistor to the switch and ran a wire up to the backbox. I removed the driver board and soldered the wire to the #1 leg of Q6 on back of the board. When it's installed it looks very clean and none of your work is visible. I then looked for a 5 volt source close to the tournament switch and found an unused connector above the shaker motor. Connect the wire and you are done. I need to order the proper connector in my next parts order. I'm not paying shipping for just one small part so it is not as clean as I would like it right now. Again, with this power source the mod is active during attract mode. I and my friends kind of like it. When they or I walk past the machine we hit the button a couple of times to make Hulk raise his arms. It's kind of addicting and funny. There may be a source that is only active during gameplay but I have not looked for one yet.

Played a Hulk LE for the first time last night. Can't believe they let it leave the factory with so many issues (and WTF is with the 555s in the GI? Can anyone explain that madness?) but the most annoying thing was the frequency of the balls getting hung up behind the Hulk's arms. Kind of sad that this hack is even necessary, but smart thinking, not having to wait for the ball search to free it and just pressing a button is way better!

Can't believe they let it leave the factory with so many issues (and WTF is with the 555s in the GI? Can anyone explain that madness?

Sure can they are cheaper and the end user can just silicone them in as they fall out.
Email Stern and see if they will send you a tube and a few toothpicks.

They are not the greatest pictures but it should give you an idea on how to do this.

000_0015[1].JPG 000_0019[1].JPG 000_0020[1].JPG

I was speaking to Pat @ Stern today, he is sending me a replacement hulk arm. I brought up that I sometimes hear a "Cling!" sound as the bridge rises. Gomez has made the following suggestion (my notes from phone call):

----
hold right side of bridge with right hand.

grab left side of bridge, twist left side towards me. bridge should clear hand.
----

So I guess by twisting it a touch, it should clear his hand from ever touching. Earlier software versions definitely had the hand get caught on the bridge, but 1.4 the timing should be ok with that change above.

I have not done this yet.

Is this to be done with the bride up or in the down position ?

Is that why I've seen his right hand look really scraped up?

Is this to be done with the bride up or in the down position ?

Lift the bridge about 2" grab it and bend it it by pushing to the left until the gap between the receiving ramp is about 1/16".
Then twist it until it rests evenly on each side.
Remove the Hulk arm and carve off the scrapes and re carve the knuckles then flame and polish with Plexus.
Here is what the gap should look like and the kink in the bridge lifting arm.

hulkbridge_001.jpg hulkbridge_002.jpg

I see that in your 2nd pic, the plate doesn't seem to fully cover the space underneath.
Have you tweaked that somehow in order to help with the balls being trapped under Hulks arm?

No, that is factory.
That plate is a replacement and the other one sat the same way off center.
I did tweak the the switch and lowered the magpole, it was set way too high which destroyed the original plate.

Ya know guys, after all the tweaks,all the work,and all the imperfections of this game, I still love to play it. Hulk multi-ball is one of the best imo, it is fun and entertaining. I've had a lot of machines with great toys but Hulk is the best yet for me. I love the unique layout,drops,BW ramp,all of it. Hopefully one day people will see what a great game it is.

Hulk multiball is fun, but I much prefer the VS modes. Trying to juggle 2 balls and still make a couple shots is tough -and yet doable.
My fav part of the game is when you have most of the team into the VS modes and then basically go from one to the next, over and over.
It's an amazing game. With room for only 2 pins in my place, I'll have to decide between this and ACDC when I buy my next new one. Gonna be a tough decision.

I hear that cling also when the bridge lifts but I'm not messing with it. I don't want to have to replace the bridge because I twisted it wrong or too hard.. His hands are already beat up (looks cool IMHO) and I have replacement arms if I ever sell it. (not anytime soon)

I can't believe I can backhand BW now. A great satisfying shot.

I really couldn't have said it better. Right on!

Once Hulk dialed in Hulk smash puny Metallica into puppet paste.
SMASH!

I have tried an d failed. Backhanded shots are my favorite shot. How the hell did you do it. I will try some more tonight. But the angle or coil strength is not working for my B/W back hand.

I after looking at my draw bridge see that if I were to push bridge to left it my free up HULK arm/fist. But on my B/W ramp and drawbridge if I do push the bridge to left it makes a wider gap on the first intersection were the B/W ramp first meets the Draw bridge. I suppose if it were flush as it is know maybe the new gap would not matter. Robbing Paul to pay Peter. traclifter you really have helped me and others with this pinball machine .Would you snap a photo of the first section of bridge now that you have it moved over to left so I can see the gap.So I can decide if I should tweak the Draw Bridge. Thanks Rob

Here are pics.

You don't just want to push it to the left, throw a rag over it and grip it and twist it counterclockwise with your left hand while you push it to the left with your right.
You want to make that S bend you see in the pic, not just a bend to the left so it sits at a 90 on the pivot point.

Make sure to trim the Cliffy underneath so it sits on the post not the rubber then get it to sit on the post and lightly on the plastic by flexing it.
The ball either doesn't make it that far or it flies over it and I haven't had a ball stick there yet.
This ramp is fast to the return lane when you hit the sweet spot and the gate is open. Hyperball_arcade_poster_006.jpg Hyperball_arcade_poster_007.jpg

The ball is coming towards the right flipper from the left side of the playfield. It's kind of hard to explain but you have to flip when the ball is still a distance above the flipper where it will hit a 1/3 of the way below the flipper tip. Does that make any sense?

I've backhanded to BW by accident with the ball in motion, but never from catching the ball with the right flipper. I can hit the entrance, but never enough to send it through the ramp.

Ahh...so you are doing it in motion...that makes much more sense (and pretty awesome if you can do it consistently!). There's no way, at least on my machine, that it could be made from a cradled ball. The geometry just wouldn't work. I can see it happening in motion though. Heck, I backhanded Iron Man last night with a fast ball...thought that was pretty cool. No way I could do it on demand though! LOL!

Well, it looks like I am about to rebuild what Stern failed to do. I was watching over the past year and people having problem after problem. I was think wow I must have lucked out. Boy was I wrong. Everything stopped working

Expand maybe there is help and solutions.

Back handing the BW ramp is cool, but I've even been able to complete the ramp shot with the bridge up!
Doubt it counted towards my BW shots, but it felt cool!

I played quite a few games on it today. You can backhand the BW ramp from a right cradle. Out of about 20 attempts I made it 3 times. I'll keep practicing and see if I can get to 50%. I'll be happy with that.

The "HULK" pop up targets stopped popping up. (Not a wire issue)
Ball ejector popper by Hulk works but thee sensor just quit when the ball goes in the hole eventually it will pop out looking for the ball. So the coil is fine.
Then the ball sensor to the right side of the ramp by the shooter rod does not recognize
when the ball arrives. The coil, when turning on the game pops up & down about 15 times then just stops. The ball arrives and the coil never fires. I contacted the company I bought the game from and they said Stern was sending me out 3 different parts to fix them all. So, I guess I am going to have to put my Stern employee hat on and figure out how to fix each and every problem. Sad part is I love them game. This will be my 4th problem as plastics have broken by HULK. Oh well it's pinball....

No one is checking this put, but its pretty cool:

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lokis-watching#post-973605

Link to this thread for a plastic I made to trigger the switch if the ball is under Hulk's right arm or behind the arm:
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/update-avengers-code-is-still-finished/page/2#post-1156259

My favorite tweak is on the nose of people that say Avengers sucks.

I don't rate games or chime in on which game would you get threads it is pointless.
How in the hell am I supposed to know what games someone else likes?
I hate liver and onions and would only eat it at gunpoint but other people love it.
I would rather say I don't care for it and leave it at that.

I agree with that. I've never called anyone out on saying "I didn't like the game", but it ticks me off to hear people decry that a game sucks or is a turd. Or, the worst, "this game is a failure". Especially when they bring up sales numbers. In the hobby today, how many sales a game has has never had less relevance to whether a game is good or bad.

I shouldn't care. I should let it go. But instead I defend the games. And maybe question the persons intelligence just for fun. Immature of me I guess.

Does anyone have a issue where the Hulk plate (in front of him) does not always register, more so on the right hand side?

You probably need to adjust the switch under the playfield. It is shown on page b18 of the manual.
You probably can hold the switch arm in the middle and bend the end that has the roller upward a little to make it actuate easier.

Remove the two screws holding the switch and tweak the actuator arm up and replace then go into switch test and check it.
The more sensitive you set it the better.

I have done a few things...Also have Loki with a color staff that blinks like Thor just do not have a photo of it yet.

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When looking at the Hulk plate, it was made to have 2 springs but there is only one on it. I wonder if adding an additional spring would help.

Whoa. That LE looks badass.

I don't think so the more free play in the plate the better.

I have problems with the Black Widow ramp as the spinner sometimes blocks the shot. Any thoughts?

Raise the spinner with a few washers for each mounting screw.

This and lube the spinner and adjust the arm on the switch so it registers just before the apex of the cam on the spinner.

I did that - but I feel it would be better if the plate had a looser tilt to it...it's a bit stiff...not sure if that's cuz of the springs or if there's something else I could do to it. It's definitely better since tweaking the switch - but would be perfect if the plate had a looser tilt when the ball was on it.

BTW - has anyone found a better launch spring replacement? At full blast mine often hits the overhead plastic (the one that sends the ball down the Hawkeye metal ramp). It doesn't do this with the auto launcher...but if I had a slightly weaker launch spring, I think that would solve the problem. I had a few extra springs laying around but the weak ones were all too weak.

Also - has anyone else had this issue: The back of my sling switches are getting bent backwards, which over time is making my slings less sensitive to register. I've straightened them...but they eventually get bent back again. I've never seen this happen on another game...is there something different about the sling design on this game that would cause that to happen?

Unsure if this has been covered yet.
If you have a ball hang at the post up at the ball lock:
With the pf up on its props, from the bottom side if the pf...
Pull the post up bracket toward outer edge of the pf (rail side).
This will bring the tip of the ball lock plunger slightly toward the center of the PF top side.
Basically your putting the tip just slightly left causing the ball to drop just slightly deeper in the ball lock trough area. This eliminated the ball hang I had in some of my vids.

If you remove the floorplate and roll the back edge over a taste the ball can trigger it easier when it rests against it.
I just pressed it on my bench and rocked it back and forth.
I had the same problem with the slings along with the ball getting stuck on the inlanes between the rubbers and the frames and under the slings and switching to 2" rubbers seemed to fix all three problems.
I have 2 batches of 2" white rubber, one is really soft and stretches easily the other is harder these are the ones I used.
Some of this rubber is junk, I had some mini post rubbers that split just putting them on, these and 100 white rubber shooter tips went right in the trash.
I have ordered some of the urethane shooter tips, adjusting the shooter rod does no good when the tips won't stay centered on the rod and are junk after 50 plays.

The sling switches were totally bent on mine. I have no idea how to use the leaf switch tool to bend switches either. I had to use my fingers. Fixed them though.

I fixed them and they bent back again. I had 2 inch rubbers and it did the same thing...changed them back to 2 1/2...still does it. In both cases the rubber was the softish-dryish-gummy type that seems to be going around these days. Anyone know who's making/selling the harder/stronger type of white rubber?