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WCS94 Assist Coil Upgrade

Started 1 year ago by TheNoTrashCougar in forum Technical help.


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WCS94 Assist Coil Upgrade



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  • Started 1 year ago by TheNoTrashCougar
  • Latest reply from Cliffy

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Topic poll

  • poll: What coil should I use for my WCS94 Assist Eject Hole?
    26-1200 (Original) : (4 votes)
    100 %
    25-1000 : (0 votes)
    24-900 : (0 votes)
    23-800 : (0 votes)

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      1 year ago | # !! © |

      Hey Group,
      I want to give my assist eject hole on my WCS94 a little more juice. Right now it has a 26-1200 coil in it.

      What would be a good replacement coil that has a bit more power?

      I probably do not want to go all out with a 23-800 as it may be too powerful.

      Any suggestions? Thanks,

      --Scott


      1 year ago | # !! © |

      Why do you think it needs more juice? If its not powerful enough then take it apart, clean it, and replace the sleeve and perhaps some of the mechanical parts. You do not need to upgrade the coil.


      1 year ago | # !! © |

      I have done all of that already. The ball will make it into the goal most of the time, but it still has trouble 1 out of every 10 times. The game is setup pretty steep too.

      I played a machine on location back in the day and I remember the ball flying out of the assist eject into the goal. It was great!

      --Scott


      1 year ago | # !! © |

      When I had one it was also flying out of the hole into the goal. That's how it is supposed to be. You need to troubleshoot and fix your issue. Sticking a stronger coil onto messed up or misaligned linkage is never the way to go.


      1 year ago | # !! © |

      Hmmm. I will have to take another look. I do have a cliffy on there. I wonder if it could be hanging up on that. Thanks,
      --Scott


      1 year ago | # !! © |
      TheNoTrashCougar said:

      I do have a cliffy on there. I wonder if it could be hanging up on that ...

      This is a known issue when using a Cliffy on that saucer. I know several people who installed the Cliffy, and then later removed it for this very reason.


      1 year ago | # !! © |

      Take a look at the angle of the eject arm. I adjusted mine (bending it slightly left, right or centering) and that helped with the force and direction of the kickout. Also, check if the metal shield that hovers over the hole is not loose - which can cause it to deaden the kickout. The shield is there to provide protection from breaking the plastic above it, as well as providing a trajectory to the goal.

      Mike


      1 year ago | # !! © |

      Thanks for the pointers guys. I will be taking a closer look at it tonight. I will report back what I find. Thanks,
      --Scott


      1 year ago | # !! © |

      i am having the exact same issue, as we speak...

      i disassembled the entire mech, cleaned it thouroughly, aligned it, everything you can think of. i even had several fellow pinball collectors look at with me, and we're all scratching our heads. it refuses to make it into the goal.

      mine was even going as far as to bind completely, until i took lloyd's advice and threw a drop of thin lube between the cam, and the mounting bracket.. now at least it doesn't require me to shut off the game to retrieve the ball.

      i personally like the stronger coil idea. it's not ideal, but in my case, i'm out of other ideas.

      of course any advice from others is always welcome

      -jon


      1 year ago | # !! © |

      I spent a lot of time on this also. In my case it ended up being the metal shield that hovers above the hole. It wasn't screwed down tight and was bent upwards. I bent it downwards (which seems counterintuitive) and the ball trajectory and speed improved greatly.

      Mike


      1 year ago | # !! © |

      had this issue on a friends wcs94 the metal arm may need to be adjusted it could be rubbing up against the side of the saucer if it is out of place it can also send the ball into the goalie even if he is over on the right side of the goal. hope this helps


      1 year ago | # !! © |
      pxzel said:

      In my case it ended up being the metal shield that hovers above the hole. It wasn't screwed down tight and was bent upwards. I bent it downwards (which seems counterintuitive) and the ball trajectory and speed improved greatly.

      This is the correct soution in most cases. Over time the deflector gets hammered upwards which then prevents the ball being kicked forward. It needs to be bent back down so it sits with some air gap under the plastics.

      The only way my protector would cause a problem is when the inner edge of the circle sits inside the beveled wood saucer. This can happen if not carefully aligned when installed OR when the deflector screws that hold it down are mis-drilled from the factory (common) I tried to leave enough room in the screw mount holes to allow you to pull it forward but in some cases it may not be enough. If thats true you can uses a jewelers round file to elongate the holes enough to allow better alignment.



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