another question...I already have a Color DMD in my ATF. It seems ok. But I understand that there is an "update" for it. How do you know if you need it or is it necessary? Watched your videos on other things and have a better understanding for installation and the thumb drive thing....

whoops............that's TAF ! sorry!

Like most things... if your display is working fine and you don't see any problems there's no need to update. On our SUPPORT page, we provide a list of all updates and what fixes or features were added.

For TAF:
ColorDMD TAF 2.1 ROM Update (Updated Jun 08, 2013)
•2.1: (06/08/13) Corrected issue with ROM reads that could cause intermittent image flicker on some boards.
•2.0: (04/28/13) Updated with SIGMA 32-bit product key.
•1.2: (12/10/12) Improved coloring for European score mode (periods vs commas).
•1.1: (11/12/12) Corrects coloring of scores greater than 1B in attract mode.

As I told Randy yesterday (in another thread), I spent some hours today making a spacer to mount the colorDMD in my Star Trek LE.
So, here are some pictures and details:

This is the back of the original speaker panel:
SpeakerPanel_Led1.JPG

This is the MDF that will serve as spacer. Its 18mm thick which will just cover the thickness of the speaker panel.
The size is 39cm x 18 cm. I could have made it smaller, but I think it's better this way as it fills up the entire height.
SpeakerPanel_Spacer1.jpg

I measured and drilled the 2 holes for the studs that are welded to the speaker panel to make it fit inside, so i could mark the other holes and the DMD window:
SpeakerPanel_Spacer2.JPG

On the bottom, you can see the 2 holes to accomodate the screws and nuts of the LE plaque.
On the top of the image you can see the clear plastic I made using the original one as a template:
I removed 3mm from the wood panel where the plastic is located. This is not absolutely necessary, but I didn't wanna make the spacer any thicker than absolutely necessary.
SpeakerPanel_Spacer3.JPG

Here the spacer is placed in the speaker panel. As you can see, I made some holes (about 5mm deep, to accomodate for the nuts.
SpeakerPanel_Spacer4.JPG

Here the nuts are secured. Nothing sticking out...
SpeakerPanel_Spacer5.JPG

Some foam to protect the LCD screen and avoid light leakage:
SpeakerPanel_Spacer6.JPG

The ColorDMD mounted. Currently, I just used some wood screws and spacers to compensate for the foam.
Maybe screws like used in the B/W to hold the DMD would be a better option...
Or, with a new mounting frame, you could use threaded studs instead of the nuts on the corners and attach the frame on the studs.
I attached the 2 cable holders to the speaker screws (insted of the DMD) and replaced the middle one with an adhesive one.
SpeakerPanel_ColorDMD1.JPG

As you can see the LCD panel sticks out a little. No way to avoid this as it sits flush against the bottom of the backbox...
SpeakerPanel_ColorDMD2.JPG

But as you can see here, this doesn't block the light of the backglass in any way:
SpeakerPanel_ColorDMD8.JPG

Only problem is the alignment of the DMD image:
SpeakerPanel_ColorDMD3.JPG

SpeakerPanel_ColorDMD5.JPG

Randy, I think this is where you come in. I think lowering the image by 3 'dots' (that is the classic DMD dots) would do the trick until you come up with a user adjustable position.

That's it for now. ColorDMD is properly mounted in my STLE. No cutting the studs, no drilling holes in the ColorDMD frame, all original screws and studs are used. All it took was a piece of wood and 4 spacers. And of course a custom made power cable.

Finally the Star Trek LE as it's supposed to look! Shame on Stern for putting in that UGLY Red DMD. Especially in the LE!
Hopefully we will can enjoy some day a full color DMD in the Star Trek. Hint...

So, now I'm gonna play a little pinball...

Looks great! Please send me an email through our site (info at colordmd dot com) and I'll try to generate a test ROM.

Can you post a drawing of some type for your mdf spacer?
If you can; I'll generate a DXF and post it free for any person to use.
I'll also release shopbot files for cutting the spacer .

I'll try to make a drawing today and post it. I would have to take some more accurate measurements though. As I was making the spacer, I just took the actual speaker panel and plastic window as a template...

Awesome work, tatanka1961!

That's a great solution. Any chance of a vid showing animations in action?
How did you make the custom power cable?

Ok, So here's a "quick and dirty" drawing with the measurements. Please note that I took the measurements as best I could, but I cannot guarantee they are 100% accurate.
Also, measures are metric...

ColorDMD_Spacer.jpg

As promised; here's a drawing based on the DXF file I created from tatanka1961's drawing:
11640176493_d960bc0b24[1].jpg

In PDF form:
http://pinball-mods.com/blogs/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/STLE_ColorDMD.pdf

Taranka, If you can confirm it looks correct to you and mark the holes where you placed the wood screws for the ColorDMD bracket; I can put those in the DXF drawing.

From there; I can provide a DXF for the clear bezel and the CNCed piece.

I am so glad they put in a red DMD. I would not have bought it if it were blue. (I have an astigmatism. Unfortunately, that means that my eyes also focus blue even less well than red.)

Hence, I avoid blue things whenever possible. That's one reason why I didn't buy an Acura TL some years ago: dash lighting was all blue (in that model year anyway).

Can someone post some video, in the Hi Res mode, not the dots one?

Very nice drawing there.

I do have some remarks though:
* The distance between the screws of the LE plaque: you put 120.396mm, while I measured 120.8mm
* I don't see the distance form the top of the spacer 17.4mm
* The vertical distance between the screws of the display: you put 118.366mm, while I measured 117mm
* You put 96mm as the height of the display hole I actually made it a little larger than the hole in the speaker panel. This way, if it's not completely accurate or aligned, it will not show. 98mm x 344mm
* You've drawn the holes for the LE plaque on the same side as the 6 holes for the display, while they are actually on opposite sides. A look at the pictures will probably make this clearer.
* The depth of the inlay ~3mm for the plastic bezel depends of course on the thickness of the plastic you are going to use...
* Maybe it would be advisable to make the holes for the screws 5mm instead of 4 to compensate for inaccuracies.
* I changed the wood screws for speaker studs (Like this http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=240). These can be found at most pinball stores. They are 369mm x 104mm apart. Lowest = 59mm from the bottom. This allowed me to use the 'old' mounting frame.
ColorDMD_Studs.jpg

I think that about covers it...

I'll look the drawing over again. it's proably right; the dimmention tool in CorelDraw sometimes calculates the distance wrong. This most-likely accounts for all "differences" you see. But will verify.

For the LE plaque holes; wouldn't it just be easier to drill a 13mm hole all the way thru the wood?
If I understand correctly; the holes are on the 3mm side not the back side where the colordmd mounts.

Yes, if you drill the 13 mm hole all the way through that would also work. As I made it, they are indeed on the side of the 3mm inlay.

<<* The distance between the screws of the LE plaque: you put 120.396mm, while I measured 120.8mm>>
Corrected.

<<* I don't see the distance form the top of the spacer 17.4mm>>
Was correct in drawing.

<<* The vertical distance between the screws of the display: you put 118.366mm, while I measured 117mm>>
Ah. Couldn't read that number so I measured on my machine. Fixed.

<<* You put 96mm as the height of the display hole I actually made it a little larger than the hole in the speaker panel. This way, if it's not completely accurate or aligned, it will not show. 98mm x 344mm>>
Corrected height.

<<* You've drawn the holes for the LE plaque on the same side as the 6 holes for the display, while they are actually on opposite sides. A look at the pictures will probably make this clearer.>>
Drilled thru wood. 13mm hole.

* The depth of the inlay ~3mm for the plastic bezel depends of course on the thickness of the plastic you are going to use...

<< Maybe it would be advisable to make the holes for the screws 5mm instead of 4 to compensate for inaccuracies.>>
Set to 5mm.

<<* I changed the wood screws for speaker studs (Like this http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=240). These can be found at most pinball stores. They are 369mm x 104mm apart. Lowest = 59mm from the bottom. This allowed me to use the 'old' mounting frame.>>
Pilot Holes added.

New / corrected drawing at the old URL:
http://pinball-mods.com/blogs/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/STLE_ColorDMD.pdf

I think it's all in there now.
Time for someone to try it out...

Any chance you would consider making some of these precut and ready to install?

No, I find it entertaining to make such things as a POC, but I'm not interested in spending my days on woodwork.
Making one of these manually takes several hours...

Perhaps ColorDMD could pre-fab these and sell them at an extra cost to Star Trek owners that buy their LCD? Or any other new Stern that uses this setup?

No commitments, No schedule... however, if tatanka1961 is ok with it; it'd be just as easy for me to make one as to make 20 or so. I need to source some MDF and the plastic for the clear bezel. In "theory"; I could do a whole sheet 4x9ft of these spacers if I can find a good MDF source and the time at Techshop.ws . Is there interest? Cost would depend on materials, time, etc.

You might want to start a new thread for better visibility and to make it easier to track, but either way please count me in for a set. Thanks!

I'll start a new thread if I decide there is enough interest and commit to the project.

Does the color dmd line up smack, bang in the middle? Is there adjustment if it is not straight? Wouldn't want to do all this and not get it centered! Not that I am in any way OCD

Shape - Randy at ColorDMD is working on a menu option to adjust the "display"s center.
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-star-trek-le-and-the-colordmd-will-it-fit/page/3#post-1340484

I think initially; he's working on a "hacked" ROM do hard code the display down 3 "dots"... and then long term he'll provide an option in his sigma menu.

Ofcourse; I'm just repeating my understanding - I have no inside knowledge of ColorDMD's process / plan.

I have a hacked ROM now that shifts it down by four dots which centered it for Guy's setup. Just PM me with your email and I'll forward it to you.

Randy

I would take a precut mdf panel for sure. Pm me if you make any.

By all means. I have absolutely no problem with it!
I might even be interested in one myself.

I can confirm that it's now prefectly centered:

P1020213.JPGP1020212.JPG

Thanks Randy. Amazing support!
ColorDMD is the way to go...

Looks great!

Can we see a video of it in dots v hi-res mode?

This is a must have mod for this game.

So, is anybody producing this in a kit, with everything needed plus instructions so that even I may be able to fit it?!

OK - I may have a mounting solution here. I can make these quite quickly, in advance of a permanent modification from ColorDMD. This setup works with WPC mounting holes.

http://mrtn.smugmug.com/Other/2014-01-02/35755927_LTVJ2z#!i=3002253200&k=m4KfCHJ

Two mounting bars; four spacers; 5 screws. Installation is quick, your biggest challenge will be juggling loose screws, spacers and nuts.

Material is thick ABS. I might switch out to Delrin. Price looks to be about $17.

You will still need foam; display cover (unless you want to stick with red).
done.jpg

The second pic shows the spacing and level from the bottom edge, and you can see the "reminder tape" (on the welded studs) well clear of the screen.

REMINDERS: DO NOT put the ColorDMD on the speaker panel without spacers. The studs will damage the LCD.
DO NOT push hard on the ColorDMD connectors. The display will flex and head towards the studs.

level.jpgblocks.jpgbars.jpg

Today I cut 18spacers on the Cnc machine; however, they will need a jig to cut the back side.
Have the files ready to cut the windows ... Which I hope to do Monday

That looks neat pampinbits. Are you selling them on your site?

I have to ask a "color dmd newb question".
For the games such as Addams Family or titles these color dmd's are available for, I assume someone had to go into the animation frame by frame and add the "color" information?
In other words, no matter if it fit the frame or not, if you plug a color dmd into a game like Star Trek, its simply not going to be in color like TAF is, correct?

Correct.

No, but it will still offer some advantages over a regular or LED DMD, like the choice between 96 different colors and the HD upscaling. And obviously full color if and when it becomes available.

Hello All,

We now have our Color DMD mounting kit available on the website. Everything you need is in the kit (except the Color DMD and Display Shield). We have both clear, and blue available. The blue display shield pairs up nicely giving you excellent contrast at the cost of a somewhat dimmer overall display. We like the blue however it is quite a bit dimmer.

http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_77&products_id=583

Thank you!

THX!!!
Order placed

Received the Mounting Kit yesterday and installed it.
Easy to install and fits perfectly.
Thx for the great Work Pinbits

Also Thx to Randy from Color Dmd for his amazing fast response for the special Rom for the new Speaker Panel

Greetings
Thomas

CIMG2313.JPG

I have made today three Videos with all possible Video Styles of the Color DMD.
I am not an Video Expert and don't know which Freeware Program is the best to compressed the avi for smaller File Size for YouTube.
atm the file size is 2,2 GB with 10 Minutes Lenght with 720p.
Someone a tip for me for an good and working freeware Tool?

Greetings
Thomas

I use Windows Live Movie maker:
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-live/movie-maker#t1=overview
and upload to utube.

Did you get the clear or the blue cover? Which are people prefering? Seems like blue might be too bright so the blue cover would be a good idea? On second thought it might be best to order both. Eventually they will hopefully have a colorized version for ST, so the clear one will be needed...

I bought the blue Cover and i like it.
I have also a Color DMD installed at my Avatar with Clear Panel and there isn't a huge Difference.
The Contrast on the ST is a little bit better for the Black Background.

CIMG2360.JPG

CIMG2357.JPG

Managed to upload the Videos now.
Sorry for the Quality of my Camera which is not the best
Will get a better one the next Days

First Video with the Interlaced Mode which i personally prefer

Second Video is with normal Dots

Third Video is with full scale Mode

Dots are best. Must authentic look for the way the images were created.

Thanks for loading.

I like the dots the least.

Think I prefer the full scale mode as it looks more futuristic.

Is it possible to display using the color purple? Just curious what it would look like.

The camera is too close for the dots to look good here, but at the proper playing distance, they will look great...and DMD-y.